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anthony mcgrath

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  1. (late reply.. blame arrival of baby boy lol!) thanks Scott. I'm looking currently at upgrading the MAP sensor. I've spoke to Thor racing and i'm told i can get a GM style 4 bar MAP sensor and an apexi style 3 bar MAP sensor. Looking over the software and MAP sensor types i cant seem to see either of these.. just a "GM 3bar" option and a "4bar" option. I can wire it in myself and perform the necessary calibration then take it to my local tuner to run a bit more boost but is there any MAP sensor you would recommend for easy install into the link G4 PnP ? thanks ant happy link owner ^_-
  2. just wanted to write a quick post on this forum to say how happy i am with my decision to run Link G4 on my 33 gtst. I've had the car 4 years+ now and modifications include: Forged bottom end - pistons n GTR rods 1.5mm cosworth head gasket rebuild cylinder head GT3076R top mount turbo 550cc injectors walbro 255 fuel pump  car made flywheel figure of 477bhp @ 1.4 bar (internal MAP sensor) with room for a chunk more power once i upgrade to 5 bar MAP sensor and a few other bits n bobs.  overall its a fantastic car - it outrun a new RS5 recently and a porsche turbo and an AM vantage had trouble getting away too so quite happy that its in a league of big power rides and regularly upsets owners of such items heh!  Driving off boost in city traffic Link ecu is sublime - feels really smooth. Full boost it feels like a time machine but it does everything in between so smoothly and progressively too. Overall super happy with the car running on the G4. Its been on this ecu for 2 years now and i really wish i could just pull it out the car if i ever break the thing and just drop it in another car hehe!
  3. hi guys not sure if the pic of the plugs attached to this post or not but here's hoping heh! its from a previously removed set but tbh the other sets aren't coming out much different at all which is confusing me all the more! oh worth noting - i double checked the boxes (yep i keep all the previous sets of plugs and boxes with install/remove times) and they are actually copper 7's NOT 8's. I've got a set of copper 8's to go in next and some iridium 8's too - i'm trying to eliminate all options really. @Jurgen - i'll try gapping to 0.6mm with the current set of plugs and see what happens. Regarding your first post about asking what the spiderweb marks are on the insulation it might be visible in the attached pic? @Daniel (Lith) yep seen you posting on some other forums in the past its a bonkers setup - i'm hoping to get it on a track in the new year to see what it does but it scares me now on the road - you really need to drive for yourself but also have eyes for the ppl nine cars up the road that you'll be on top of in no time if your not careful! more than enough power for the road i think! It kept up with a bmw M5 V10 E60 or something only recently and that was with a poor geometry setup (which was affecting speed hugely with the enormous 6 degrees of toe IN on the front) and a downpipe that was half hanging off so with some fine tuning and a bit more boost i reckon it'll embarrass cars like that! regarding gap its been running the standard 0.8mm gap on the copper 7's - i'm gonna try and regap them tonight to 0.6mm like Jurgen says and see what happens. My plastic came through too so i'm gonna try and make the new coilpack rail from it this week too! it seems to have fixed alot of ppl's misfire issues (whom are all running correctly gapped iridium plugs suited to their application and splitfire coilpacks) but they still get misfire like me. Its a weird one but for the sake of 20quid on a chunk of plastic board and some fun time with the jigsaw and drill i thought what the hell will post back my findings guys thanks!
  4. hi guys big thanks for all your comments i haven't had chance to check this thread of late (my wife is expecting our first heh!). anyways i've been running normal NGK copper 7's on my car and its almost like clockwork - 6-8 weeks and they break down. If i remove them they seem fine visually - fairly even burn rate (altho cylinders 5 & 6 at the back seem a bit whiter a little bit). once i swap the plugs for another cheap set of copper 7's the car runs sweet - bonkers in fact for about another 6 - 8 weeks depending on how much/hard i drive the car. @Jurgen - thanks its comforting to know that the link doesn't require anything more - i guess this is proven by the fact that when my is running sweet its REALLY running sweet - smooth idle, smooth power delivery all the way to redline in all gears. @Mark/Dobsons - cheers for your advice guys - i cant afford a CDI ignition system - it probably amounts to £500+ by the time i've bought all the bits i bet. I'm gonna try to sort this with what i have because there are guys running far more power than me on the same setup and they dont see any such issues :/ there are a couple of things some skyline owners running high power (500+) have done that have worked for them - here they are... -sparkplug gap as you guys have indeed mentioned - i'm gonna try gapping to 0.5mm and see what happens - car never gets driven hard cold anyway. -run colder plugs (heatrange 8's) - not tried copper 8's in yet - gonna give them a shot gapped to 0.7mm? -change the coilpack rail from metal to a homebrew plastic/acetal one. Apparently the metal rail can be conductive and spark strength if it escapes the coilpack somehow dissipates through the metal coilpack rail. I'm gonna try the acetal one and see if anything changes. whatever the issue is it really is like trying to find a needle in a haystack now. ps apologies for my very late reply! ant
  5. hi all i've had my car mapped for a good few months now - its been running like a missile it really has and has been a great daily driver as well as a ferrari slaying hog! It fires up every day without issue and gets me to work and back as well as out for spirited drives! loving it! However i've gone through 3 sets of spark plugs since it was mapped earlier this year. When i take them out they seem to look okay - nice and tanned (not black or chalky white and peppered) and on WOT with link logging the AFR is spot on. I have noticed some insulation with scuff marks on them though. The car seems to do this every couple of months - it runs great but progressively gets worse. I've swapped Crank Angle Sensor (CAS), coilpacks and sparkplug types (iridium to copper and back again) and the problem still seems to periodically come about. I've changed fuel types from tesco99 (which is was mapped on) to Shell V power but the problem still persists especially in 4th gear higher up the rpm range. i get some slight misses but occasionally a good couple of harsh misses that make me come off the gas quite quickly and slow things down. As the sparkplugs die more and more it eventually gets to the point where i cant WOT it in low boost mode (1 bar on a GT3076R turbo... high boost is 1.4bar and its insane!) without it spluttering at 5000rpm. I'm kind of at a loss now as to what it could be really. I'm posting up on here because i'm wondering if the link plugin ecu needs something inline with the coilpack signal wiring or something coming from the ecu? I only ask that because years ago i had a map2ecu piggyback fitted (yech!) and that needed 220ohm resistors inline with each coilpack signal wire i think. also would there be any options worth looking at first to try and isolate this issue? I know thats like asking to find a needle in a haystack with the link ecu's many options but somewhere to look first. I've seen a few ppl now with link ecu's and they have the same issue at 5000rpm so i'm beginning to wonder if the link ecu is having some issues somewhere with the skylines maybe? is this anything ppl have rectified or experienced similar issues with on their link systems?
  6. hi Martin thanks mate - I've been looking at them and they stand as follows... I think you mentioned they should be about 50 (midrange) and the car adjusts up or down from that. I disabled the ISC control sol in pclink, tried setting my car to 700rpm then re-enabling it in pclink again but I just couldn't get the car to adjust really. In the end I did the same process but adjusted the idle valve so it was closer to 900 base idle which the car seems far happier with. I have noticed that once warmed up (ie after driving to work down the mway) the car drops to a low idle far less when stopping at lights. Its just when cold it seems a bit confused heh!
  7. great stuff thanks Martin - I'll give that a shot. I did indeed find that funnily enough last night in the analog_inputs-->fault_settings but was worried that setting it would knock the settings for the AEM UEGO WB out of kilter or something :/
  8. hi all I've got a couple of questions if thats okay.. Q1 - IDLE UP with heavy load on car to prevent stalling? I've been editing my idle and since getting my Q45 throttle body sorted I've been having much more success bringing the idle down from 1800rpm to a more respectable 900rpm. I was playing with the idle speed control (using closed loop sol/stepper mode) but having some probs. When I drive about at night I have headlights on, music, heater, possibly wipers (our lush british weather!) and if I'm operating powersteering then when I come to traffic lights the rpm drops quite quickly down to 300rpm bordering on stalling. A few seconds later it picks up just fine and idles nicely at 900rpm Is there a dec air function or something that will lift the rpm a little while the car settles from say 3000rpm down to 900 (ie: cruising to stopping at lights)? I'm not sure how to go about it altho I suspect it may be a case of editing something in the idle speed control Base position %DC maybe ? Q2 - FAULT CODE 20 I have my wideband plugged into AN Volt4 at present and every time I switch on the car it gives me an AN VOLT 4 ERROR - FAULT CODE 20 message. From what I can gather its a grounding issue but my wideband seems to be working just fine. the gauge is adjusting based on the fueling and if I hit the R key in PClink and check out my fuel I can see the lambda fuel correction % adjusting to meet the AFR target table. I'm a bit lost now as this msg never used to come up but now its every time. I have also noticed that if I put my foot down a little bit taking the car to boost threshhold the car would enrichen the mix for me but now it doesn't seem to do that and things seem like they get more lean on the gauge without ever enriching. any thoughts would be most welcome thanks ant
  9. well just to append to this thread... I found out that my high idle was actually down to my Q45 throttle body. It has a throttle jacker device that works kinda like a thermostat.. a little plunger pushes open the throttle body slightly whilst cold. Water is fed through the throttle body and as it heats up a waxy substance melts and allows the plunger to push inward effectively relieving pressure off the throttle linkage (that bit that the wire is connected to) and lowers the idle. I didn't know about this but its easy enough to remove so I took it out and bingo! The idle dropped right down. The water being fed through the throttle body actually isn't needed which is why I didn't know about it as the gtst has a cold start valve. I then disconnected the ISC solenoid control in aux_outputs_fuel and adjusted my idle valve mechanically using the idle valve adjuster screw under the hood! After that I re-enabled ISC on the G4 and was able to adjust the idle. I still have some issues in that with alot of load (headlights, music, heater) and use of the power steering as I come to traffic lights to stop the idle will drop quite low to as much as 3-400rpm but then it picks up again. From reading the manual I THINK that i might need to adjust the derivative gain but not sure. Can anyone back this up?
  10. hi Rod thanks for your reply! Yep a friend suggested the idle screw but I cleaned that out before I fitted it onto my plenum. I recently removed the adjuster screw and I put some ptfe tape around it to help create a better seal as the little rubber grommet thats supposed to do that job was jaffed and I cant get another one. The adjuster screw on the idle valve does adjust the rpm but i've screwed it in quite far now and it isn't really gonna go much further and the rpm is still high. The throttle body all seems okay but It wouldn't hurt to take it off and check. Usually if there's any air leaks the car tends to hunt but its not doing that really - its just a permanently high idle. HOWEVER! a friend on another forum pointed me to the following in G4 Ignition/Ignition_corrections/ECT_ign_trim when I look at that I see from 20 to 60 degrees ECT there is as much as 5 degrees extra of ign timing. I'm almost certain its this causing the issue as when I tried editing the ign in the table (before I knew about the trim menu!) the rpm did sound like it was going down but the issue was that the rpm was going lower than what I would have liked even by 1 degree. With the trim table I should be able to zero that lot out (leaving the values alone after 100ECT which retard ign I imagine as a safety protocol). I'm gonna try it tonight and see what I get. I imagine it might be a conglomeration of issues but looking at that table I'd say the extra 3-5 degrees ign isn't helping really.
  11. hi all I've been having a high idle issue on my R33 skyline GTST since the ecu went in and I cant seem to find out what the problem is. I've checked the idle valve and thats screwed in quite far lowering the idle and there aren't any air leaks either as the idle isn't hunting or anything. I fitted a nismo thermostat and an oil cooler about 4-6 months ago. the oil cooler came off just before xmas because the oil just wouldn't warm up and the oil pressure was mental high all the time! ..and this week the nismo thermostat came off (whilst having a clutch change) and an oem thermostat (new) put back in. So I'm quite happier now - oil temps climb to a more respectable 70degrees and ECT seems to climb to about 62 as it goes through warm up in the garage. With a run out and return it climbs a bit higher and oil pressure is more sensible. I'm pretty much at the point where the ol' gal is ready to be mapped Anyhow with those things being a bit more sensible I thought I'd have a go at editing the warm up enrichment. I ran through it last night editing the value on the 0% TP as it warmed up. At 70degrees I've got it so the warm up enrichment is pretty much decayed out completely. I attached a screenshot to show what I mean. My problem is that the car STILL doesn't seem to be dropping in terms of RPM - its still idling quite high. If I take it out for a drive the RPM is lower at 40mph than the idle at traffic lights! If I pull up at lights the idle will literally climb to about 1500-1600rpm. I'm just a bit lost as to what I can adjust now to bring it down. I've attached shots of my Warm Up Enrichment and IGN table for reference. anyone got any ideas thanks ant ps sorry for long post - just trying to cover the angles and full picture of where the car is at.
  12. hi all I've been having a high idle issue on my R33 skyline GTST since the ecu went in and I cant seem to find out what the problem is. I fitted a nismo thermostat and an oil cooler about 4-6 months ago. the oil cooler came off just before xmas because the oil just wouldn't warm up and the oil pressure was mental high all the time! ..and this week the nismo thermostat came off (whilst having a clutch change) and an oem thermostat (new) put back in. So I'm quite happier now - oil temps climb to a more respectable 70degrees and ECT seems to climb to about 62 as it goes through warm up in the garage. With a run out and return it climbs a bit higher and oil pressure is more sensible. I'm pretty much at the point where the ol' gal is ready to be mapped Anyhow with those things being a bit more sensible I thought I'd have a go at editing the warm up enrichment. I ran through it last night editing the value on the 0% TP as it warmed up. At 70degrees I've got it so the warm up enrichment is pretty much decayed out completely. I attached a screenshot to show what I mean. My problem is that the car STILL doesn't seem to be dropping in terms of RPM - its still idling quite high. If I take it out for a drive the RPM is lower at 40mph than the idle at traffic lights! If I pull up at lights the idle will literally climb to about 1500-1600rpm. I'm just a bit lost as to what I can adjust now to bring it down. I've checked the idle valve and thats screwed in quite far lowering the idle and there aren't any air leaks either as the idle isn't hunting or anything. I've attached shots of my Warm Up Enrichment and IGN table for reference. anyone got any ideas thanks ant ps sorry for long post - just trying to cover the angles and full picture of where the car is at.
  13. thanks Jurgen I'm pretty confident the ign calibration is all sorted but I might get it in me garage and give it a triple check to be sure. I'm not sure how clued you are on the 33gtst (more than me I'll imagine heh) but for the purposes of anyone else reading up on here... Just to explain where I went wrong firstly... I set my timing gun to zero degrees & did my first calibration. I was getting readings of 25+ degrees and it was bouncing about somewhat. I would rev it up to 3000rpm and hold it there but the ign signal was terrible.. unreadable... Martin Battye phoned me and explained the best way to deal with it is set the CAS on the skyline to the middle. Use a dumb timing gun (or set mine to zero which I'd kinda figured beforehand) BUT read the signal off number one cylinder using a coil lead between the plug & the coilpack. previously I was reading it off the ign loop at the back of the engine block. The signal off cylinder one using the coil lead was MUCH clearer.. on idle I was able to see that the ign timing was a little out, so I adjusted the 2nd figure in the calibration options... http://www.anthonymcgrath.co.uk/socom/g4link/ignTiming_calibrate.jpg'>http://www.anthonymcgrath.co.uk/socom/g4link/ignTiming_calibrate.jpg I then took the rpm up to 3000rpm and checked the ign timing again but it seemed to be holding steady, so the third option (ign delay in ms) I didn't need to touch. Martin Battye (one of the forum users) helped me out and sent me a fuel & ign table and gave me some help over the phone. The car has been ALOT smoother to drive since! As in an entirely different car. It is a touch rich but with any luck I'll be able to adjust that using the runtime values from the wideband which Martin also helped me set up. I haven't been loading it up - literally cruising to work & back off boost at all times - I have a good accurate boost gauge, and been keeping an eye on that and haven't even taken it onto boost or beyond 3000rpm in just about any gear. I've got a light foot Martin is a bit busy at moment but going to be heading up here to help me get it tuned & driveable and I reckon he'll double check all the ign calibration for me too just to be sure. I'm not too bothered about making the power just yet - if it makes actuator pressure I'll be happy then I up the power on a rolling road at a later point. I am being careful with it tho
  14. another thing I did notice is that after doing the set base timing the car actually drove a fair bit better than it did previously. I've only been taking it around my crescent and it hasn't even got above 2500rpm tbh but it definitely felt a fair bit more driveable than it did previously!
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