Steve Bull

Try those links now the setting have been changed.

See if this works https://drive.google.com/file/d/1k7QZIcL_FtD_BruTEuN_nQBJtjlBup_2/view?usp=drivesdk https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wRwSTTR3GghEhiRO_ccn8RbC8EWOsFUj/view?usp=drivesdk it has stated to add a bit more fuel back into the Map but still well under what it was. 28 went to 6.4 now it’s up to 12.6. Again you can hear/feel the difference and the engine is idling smother, so it’s working what ever it doing.

I’m tying to but it won’t let me as file too big

I’ve looked in to a couple of the logs, one which was done yesterday and another that was done early in the year. I’ve tried to find a point where the engine was in a similar state, revs, temperature and AFR . Now everything on the car is the same nothing is been changed other Than the ECU’s. As you can see the pulse width is .2 of a millisecond difference between the old ECU and the new ECU. The two fuel tables are quite different, the G4X has started to pull the fuel and bring it right down, tickover 1000 rpm it’s gone from 26.3 all the way down to 6.2. Again at 2000 rpm it’s reduced it by 17. The only difference I can see is that with the old ECU I had to use one of the calibration tables which was as exact as I could get it. Going through the figures on the calibration table, I think the AFR is Occasionally out by 0.01 at the very most, so this won’t have much of an effect at all. The new G4 X he’s got his own calibration for the AEM X O2 sensor. Other than that I can’t figure out why it’s reduce the fuel so much. I do have a separate AFR gauge and sensor and on all occasions reads almost identical to what the ECU is seeing. Without a shadow of doubt the engine is running a lot smoother, the idle is a lot more stable than it ever was. I’ve still got a few more things to do in the car before I can take it out, but from just moving it backwards and forwards it seems better. So I’ve no idea how the old ECU was over fuelling unless the calibration was incorrect, or is the new ECU under fuelling and doing a leaner burn, I don’t know.

I’ll look in to it tomorrow. I was looking through the settings on the ignition idle control, they looked mega high. I think it had something like 50° BTDC Max and 30 BTDC min .Like you said are all too extreme, for it to work. Thanks

Thanks yeah, when I originally calibrated the APS it automatically put that figure in, but now I’ve re-done it like you suggested, it came out to 60.5% so bit of difference. Hopefully that’s cured that and I won’t see that error pop-up ever again. The ignition idle control part was causing issues so I just set it to “No” ignition idle control. But things are slowly getting there. One thing I have notice is that the Main fuel Table figures seem to be miles out, even though they’re just the same as what was on the old ECU, along with all the Master fuel settings. I’ve only done it for tickover and the settings went from 28-30 down to 11.5 and 9.5. Quite a big difference.

Thanks it’s a good starting point, I’ll see what, if any, errors they through up. I looked at the the G4 set values and there the same as the G4+ & G4x. *** did the new settings to the throttle control and it seem to have worked, quite a bit of fiddling about, but putting Aux9 active status to high altered the polarity of Aux 9 and 10. The TPS now has no errors at all, the APS does occasionally get errors but it’s a lot better. I had to really cut down the idle control minimum maximum clamp from 50% down to 7%, as first start up it leaped to 4,000rpm. The values for the start-up offset table which can be a maximum of 100, is this rpm or is it a percentage of extra throttle or something completely different. Another issue I’ve had a couple of times when starting it, the engine seems to start quite well and nicely idle, then as the start of the Enrichment drops down the engine runs all over the place and comes up with the error maximum ignition advance reached but in the same time the mixture is extremely rich. I’ll have to look at the values as it advancing too much and the mix is far too rich. I will try to do a runtime log but I’ve not had the chance to do it could be engine dies after 10-15 seconds. but progress in the right direction

Thanks for that, it’s another thing to add to the list. I think also I may have the main in the subs the wrong around on the TPS, which may cause the issue. I’ll have to check the runtime values tomorrow, Like you said the TPS, both main and sub, are miles out. As well as the Idle clamp max and min. Do you know if all the values in the “set up notes” for the 1uz E-Throttle are correct for the G4X ECU, the P,I and D gains.

Now this might show my stupidity, but if the TPS values at close throttle are higher than at open Throttle would this mean that the 5 V and earth of the wrong way round. This is all I can think that is making the E-throttle not work and throwing up the error 76. I’m sure all my settings are correct for the 1uz.

I’m slowly going through the features on the G4X. And something I’d like to do will be the blip the throttle on the down change. Now I noticed when I was going through the the set up menu, for gearshift control, it asked for the blip solenoid. Now if it’s none is that a default setting and the E throttle will blip, or by selecting non, nothing will happen. I was hoping this could be done with the E-throttle as I don’t want to have a separate piece of kit to do it.

So the timing is well out then. I didn’t use a timing light as I though it must be some other error as everything was the same. Does the G4x xtreme need both cam and crank sensors inputs, I think the G4 was wired up to take it but didn’t require both. I’ll put the trigger offset to zero, I take it that’s the one in the triggers/calibrate set base timing pop up menu. Thanks *** just tried it and after a adjustments to the FIP controller it ran. Had the strobe light running and zero Trigger offset, with the timing locked at 10°, gave 10° on the crank timing mark. So for the first time with this ECU all is good. I just now need to get my head right into it the G4x. Thanks

Thanks, the mapping isnt finished on either, i didnt get a chance to log, but i did notice all the coils and injectors were firing.

I’ve just started the process of getting my link G4X xtreme ECU to take over from my old G4 xtreme ECU. Been quite a fair bit of faffing around getting everything from one map to the other. Plus getting a hang of the new ECU it’s a fair bit different to the old one. Got to the point where they both are the same. But when I swapped out the old for the new the engine wouldn’t start. All the inputs and outputs were registering but the engine just would fire up. Swapped them back and it started first time. Any ideas what I could have missed.

This maybe a thing that’s been asked many, many, many times before but. A couple of things. with the standard Toyota/Lexus (1uz) coolant sensor, what should be selected. The main reason for this is that this is going to be used to control the electric coolant pump. So needed to be quite good as this is the only thing that is going to stop my engine from, well severe impending doom. One other thing, has the G4 X got the capacity to control and electric water pump, without having to use a few timers and a bit of logic. No doubt it will be easily within the bounds of this ECU to do it, but is it available yet. Or something like this in the pipeline waiting for the next update.

Right, so does this alter the fuel automatically or is it held on a separate file for you then to add it to the fuel table. I also take it that it is stored on the ECU even when you have power off. As this is one the issues I was having with the short-term fuel trims that if you turn ignition off, you lost all the information/data. if that the case I’ll have to find it when I get back home.

Im still to fit my G4X xtreme ECU, but I was just wondering if anything has been considered about the continuous autotune. Another item would be a electric water pump controller, I know at present my G4 xtreme ECU does it with use of a few timers and some logic. Is there anything in the pipeline to be able to do this as well.

I saw it but couldn' t get it to change in the main Ign table . Then i read the instructions in the help file and found you have to press enter before pressing "Done".........Muppet

Thanks , think I'll find what is the lowest voltage it works on and use some resisters to low the voltage, as I dont think i have any free AUX outputs. If i do end up with on not in use ill use the PWM on the ECU. I cant see where the set the ignition delay to 115 us. I thought i had but it was just to set the base ignition timing. Thanks

That will be a help as I'm slowly going through the PC link G4 map and placing it on to G4X. The new system is more complicated but alot more flexible. I'm going to try the new E-Throttle setting but mines a Toyota 1uz vvti throttle body with the clutch. As far as i know (which is possibly wrong) the clutch requires constant power, not PWM. IF i use a E-Throttle relay (to B loom 14v Aux 9/10) and the ecu controls this relay with an AUX out, can i take power off of this after the Relay to power the Throttle clutch rather than use another AUX out.

Just got another laptop so i can run the software but thats all as the car is 20 mile way. I cant seem to find the xtreme 1uz vvti base map. Or isn't there one and its a case of doing it all from new.

ECU has arrived but I'm still waiting for the laptop so i cant do anything. While I wait Is there any tutorials or advise for the new software.

Well, ordered the new Xtreme and new (to me) laptop. Just waiting now. Is there any tutorials or advise for the new software.

My laptop is an old Dell inspiration but running Windows XP. The first G4+ PC Link software runs but later updates don't, its the same story for the new G4X PC Link software. The error is "PCLink.exe - Entry Point Not Found" "The procedure entry point Register Power SettingNotification could not be located in the dynamic link libary USER 32.DLL," I think it may be just as its running XP and not Windows 10 as its got enough processor speed and memory. Looks like i will have to get a newer laptop or attempt a Windows XP to Windows 7 to Windows 8 to Windows 10 and hopefully not loose all my data.

Its here and available in the UK. Just waiting for my supplier to get stock. One question on the computer side of things my laptop will not run the software. Whats the minimum spec for a laptop/operating system to run the software and new ECU.

Thanks ill look for a different way to do it. Saying that though instructions for the VSS were all in Chinese. A Google and the black wire isn't the earth but the load. While the blue, normally the signal, is the earth so it may work once rewired.