Cameron Moore

Hi Chipset, This is on my 'todo' list and should hopefully get around to sorting this out in the next couple of weeks. Will let you know when I've got an answer. -Cameron

Hi Rod, You are correct, but it mostly applies to low impedance injectors that require a large current to open quickly and then a low current to stop it from melting. High impedance injectors are designed to be run in saturated mode, it doesn't hurt to run in P&H but there isn't anything to be gained as they only draw 1 amp or so it will never reach the peak anyway but you might get slightly faster closing times as 0.5 amps dissipates quicker. Either way it shouldn't actually be causing the issues you're having. If you have lower the numbers in the fuel table to no advantage, maybe try lowering your master fuel value as see if you get anywhere. -Cameron

Hi Ryan, Try setting your Trig 2 lockout to 7000rpm and see if that fixes the drift issue. Yes you're correct on the knock sensor. For the warm start you may need to increase your post start enrichment, after doing this you may need to reduce your warmup enrichment in the colder areas to compensate. -Cameron

Hi Daniel, This is most likely due to the new rev limiting settings. The 7800 is the hard limit where everything is cut, your control range is probably set to 700rpm so it starts limiting 700rpm before the hard limit. If you don't have this lead-in then the engine can gain momentum and rev past the hard limit causing loud backfires and abrupt engine breaking. Depending on what your tuner recommends it might be that you change the rev limit to 8000 with a 400rpm control range, this will start limiting at 7600 and hard limit at 8000. -Cameron

Hi Rod, Have you had your injectors flowed and cleaned? Maybe one is jammed open or isn't flowing correctly. What impedance (resistance) are they? If they're above 6 ohms you should be running them in saturated mode rather than peak and hold. -Cameron

Hi Phil, Yes you can use the factory knock sensor, 13kHz should work well. Yes you can use those 2 wires going to the ECU. -Cameron

Hi Frank, If you want to confirm on a 3 wire 'push-pull' ISC which pins are ISC-O and ISC-C. With just the 12v connected, when you ground the ISC-C pin, the engine should stall unless you have air coming into the manifold elsewhere. And when you ground the other pin, ISC-O, the engine should rev as high as the idle can let it. What frequency are you running the ISC at? -Cameron

Hi Devon, Can't tell if that's a V5 without looking inside it, or if there's a sticker on the end. Also to know what engine it can run we would need a look inside. If you could undo the 4 screws and take the lid off, post a photo of the inside please. -Cameron

Hi Rod, It's possible that you're running so rich that cylinders aren't firing, raw fuel is coming out the exhaust and reading lean. (Remember AFR is Air to Fuel Ratio, so higher number is more air, less fuel, therefore lean). What is your master fuel value set to? What are the numbers in your fuel table like? Where have you got the wideband O2 sensor located? -Cameron

Yes the 'Value' is the Port number, so DI Value1 OFF, Value 1 = 5, will be true when DI 5 is OFF. Yes, same as DI. Aux Fuel is for when a spare Fuel Drive is used as an Auxiliary , it should not be used to echo a Fuel Injector. If you set DI9 to GP Input, Pullup Resistor ON, On Level Low. When this switch goes to ground the DI9 Value with be 'ON' Then set Aux 5 to GP Output. SW Cond 1 Aux Value1 = ON; Aux Value 1 = ON 1 SW Cond 2 DI Value1 = ON; DI Value 1 = ON 9 Switch Logic Cond 1 AND 2 So now if the fuel pump is running, AND DI9 is switched to ground, Aux 5 will go low and turn on your relay, thus activating the extra fuel pump. If either the main fuel pump or DI 9 is turned off, the second fuel pump will turn off. Attached is a picture of how it should be set up, good luck.

Hi Paul, Depending on your wiring experience I would class this as a relatively easy swap. There are 2 ways you could go about this, 1. When you buy the Xtreme, swap the 2.5m looms for the 400mm (this will drop the price a little). Then cut off the G2 plug and solder/crimp/heatshrink the short loom on. 2. Instead swap for a 'Pin Kit', cut off the G2 loom and terminate with G4 terminals and into G4 Plugs. (This may be a bit more difficult if you don't have the correct crimping tool, and the G2 wire insulation is larger and won't fit into the G4 plugs easily. Good Luck -Cameron

Hi Zane, How are you measuring the boost? Are you reading off the ECU or do you have a mechanical gauge? Does the boost controller have its own MAP sensor or are you sharing the ECU(factory) MAP sensor? The 44S is designed to use a 'GM' 3 bar map sensor, if this Omni sensor has a different scaling then there's a chance the ECU thinks it's 17psi when you only have 15psi. Is the ECU set to use a 3 bar? The factory sensor should be good for 22psi so maybe change back? -Cameron

Hi Graham, Didn't realise we were missing those off the site, they have been added now. In case anyone else wants to know where they are: http://www.linkecu.com/support/documentation/g1-engine-management-documentation -Cameron

Hi Justin, Without scoping what the original signal looked like on the other side of that resistor it would be hard to know what duty cycle or resistor it would need. I would think it would be fine without the extra resistor. I would also imagine that 30-50% duty cycle should be fine. -Cameron

Hi Patrick, The ECU will only use the last fuel pump option it sees, eg If Aux 1 and Aux 8 are set to Fuel pump, only Aux 8 will operate as a Fuel pump. I think you have 2 options, 1. Run both Fuel pumps off the same drive (relay), or use a second relay if the one can't handle 2 fuel pumps. 2. Set your secondary pump to FP Speed (sadly this will not prime), if you set this to a low rpm and low %FF it could even turn on during cranking. Hope that helps, -Cameron

Hi Justinsue, Yes you are correct. You should find that the incoming signal onto the dash pcb will go straight to a resistor, if you bypass this resistor and put the signal in on the other side of it you should be good. -Cameron

Hi Josh, If you have the sync turned on, you should be looking for 'Trigger 2 - Yes' in your runtime values (F12). If it is not working you will see the trigger errors count up each time it expects to see a sync and it doesn't. Eg 24 teeth on the crank, you will get a trigger error every time 48 teeth go past without seeing a sync. As Martin suggests the ECCS Sync is only for Nissans when they convert the 'widest slot' into a sync signal. -Cameron

Hi Guys, Turns out this is completely normal for a Storm. The Atom, Lightning and RX LED's stay on after powering up, but the Storm doesn't. This will be remedied in a future firmware upgrade. We will most likely use it as a check engine light unless we think of a better use for it. -Cameron

Hi Chipset, It's along time since we tested those sensors but our notes suggest they had the same calibration (despite the picture, we may have to revisit this). It seems the Standard Bosch cal should cover the '026, '039, '085, '070, '097 Bosch sensors. With the Std Bosch you should see 2.5kOhms at 20degC, the other Bosch sensor (017) will be 1.65kOhm at 20degC. Hope that helps -Cameron

Sadly we don't do 'quick bash togethers' hence why doing proper closed loop boost has taken us this long (as well as focusing on other more asked for features, e-throttle etc). Luckily we can now announce the release of closed loop boost in the latest G4 firmware 4.7.0! -Cameron

Hi Mike, You've pretty much been given all the info I could offer. You're right that the only 'variable output' is the Aux GP PWM. To use this you would need to create a PWM to Voltage Converter, then a voltage to LED bargraph chip. with all the supporting hardware required for those two chips, you would be much better off just using a little PIC or AVR chip to do all the hardwork and go straight from PWM to LED. We are currently developing a product that could suit this application, but other more important projects keep pushing it out. So I'm afraid I don't know when it will be available and can't tell you much more than that. -Cameron

Hi Roger, The ECU you have doesn't have Auxiliary outputs 9 and 10 (Aux 8 should work ok), but without connecting to it, PCLink won't know this. It can be possible to view and set functions that an ECU doesn't have when you are not connected. As soon as you connect it will lock-out any functions that are not available on that model. -Cameron

Hi Kris, You can connect one (or both) white wires to the CAS ground. Sheilds are already connected at the ECU end, and should not be wired to anything at the other end (this is the correct method for sheilding). The CAS supply needs to be an ignition switched 12V supply, the factory wiring has this supplied off the ECCS relay (if you still have the factory wiring). It should turn on and off along with your injectors and ECU power supply. Also wire as per Figure 11.3 for the G3 (and G4), the other one should really say: 'Pre G3', not 'non G3'. Hope that helps. -Cameron

Hi Matt, Do you have details on the output of the gearbox? eg resistance for each gear? -Cameron

Hi Rod, Most speed sensors are reluctor. The G4 can take a reluctor input directly without and extra hardware, so you should be fine. Just wire it to a spare digital input and set it to 'Speed', and calibrate as per the manual. Although called a Digital input, these are designed to recognise reluctor waveforms for when variable cam position is required. Remember to turn off the 'Pull Up' as the reluctor generates it's own voltage, it doesn't require it. -Cameron