Stephen Fargher

HI. I'll email it to your tech address attention yourself. regarding the upgrade, the only change hardware wise was moving boost control from the Blitz controller to the Link G3 unit. I piggybacked the AUX wire from the loom, and connected it to one side of the solenoid, and ran 12v into the other side. Thinking about it, the solenoid is fed 12v regardless of ignition switch position and is live until the master battery switch is turned off. Dunno if that would make a difference.

pick a Digital Input (I have a feeling there is only one on the standard G3) - find out which pin on the ECU header it is an wire it up to one side of a single pole switch. The other side of the switch should be fed 12 volts. So basically, when you flick the switch, the Link ECU earths the connection. Then in PClink, Configure your DI to an un-used function (water spray perhaps?) and then you can check it's working (donw the botton, there is a Digital Inputs tab where you can see their status) Then under "Boost Control" you configure the Dual Boost Table function to "Switch on DI" and then you can choose which Digital Inpout channel to switch on - which is the channel you wired up to your switch!! I'm sure Simon or Ashley will correct me if I'm wrong. Hope that helps.

Hi Simon, Checked the setup & compared to an old map from when it was running the old firmware (also checked the setup it shipped with). DI 6 is setup to Ignition Switch and Aux. output (fuel) 5 is set to ECU hold power. Same as they always were. Any more things I could check?

hi, Just upgraded my firmware to the latest (1.80) on my EvoLink G3. was all good, except had to turn the IAT feature off as the firmware upgrade turned it on!!! However, now after the car is run and then turned off, the Link keeps turning the fuel pump relay on and off every few seconds, until I turn the master battery switch off (it's a rally car) Turning the master power back on, everything is normal again, link primes the pump etc, Is it a possible bug in the firmware, or a dodgy setting in the map?? any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks, Steve. p.s car runs fine on the new firmware, just got dyno tuned today @ 205kw at the hubs, through a 36mm restrictor and standard turbo, injectors etc etc!!!!

just curious - does the Overrun fuel cut mode 'interfere' or get involved in any way if you have anti-lag configured and running? Give that AL wants to inject fuel and retard timing and the overrun cut wants to cut fuel and retard timing!! I'm assuming the answer is no of course!!! Also, what is the default boost map like (i.e. how much lbs boost max) for EvoLink G3? thanks.

Hi, I have an EvoLinkG3 installed in my Evo 1 rally car running medium boost (1bar) on std. turbo & manifolds etc. Have had an intermittent mis-fire which I think I have isolated down to being heat related (the car runs Gp. N Anti-lag) On the weekend at a gravel sprint it only started mis-firing at the very end of the 1st run but around 2/3 through the second run - leaving the bonnet open in the pits between runs and leaving the motor off right up to the start seemed to delay the mis-fire. Happens around 5000rpm and the car stutters badly and won't rev any more - changing up a gear seems to make it go away (until you hit 5k again!)  Problem is only evident in stages, not on the dyno (massive fan blowing into front of engine bay) or on road tests (not WOT for long enough!) My suspicion is the igniter and/or coil packs are overheating due to higher engine bay temps and generally working these components harder with the Anti-lag..... My question is this - does the Gp. N ALS setup work the igniter/coils significantly harder than normal? I would like to build a nice, fat alloy heatsink and mount these bits on it with the fins just poking though the bonnet (which will require lengthening the wiring somewhat - which I've read is not such a great idea....) I've experienced a similar problem with a customer car where the igniter was not bolted to any heat-sink and was cured temporarily with an empty V can!! Thanks.

Hi Ashley, thanks for your reply. I've re-read everything (again!) and think I'm on to it. I'll get this tuned by a professional but I'm keen to understand why it wasn't working for my own knowledge.... As the IGN Cut table is all zeros, when AL is active, backing off the throttle will not create anti-lag as such - as the throttle plate is open, fuel is being injected (despite the rather high IGN retard values) - it's the IGN cut that causes the AL mis-firing? So for aggressive AL, I would enter 8 in the relevant fields (2 x 4cyl) and for mild AL I would enter 2 in the relevant fields? Also, 1 more question!! I assume the EvoLinkG3 ECU header is different from the standard LinkPlus G3 header? I'd like to hook up a Digital Input to activate the AL as well as the TPS and RPM settings. However, my car doesn't have a plug for the A/C switch (it's an Evo RS) and I removed the factory water-sprayer switch (seemed like a good idea at the time!!) Do you guys have a diagram of the EvoLink G3 ECU header (Evo 1-3) ? Thanks again for your time (and patience!)

hi. got it working - sort of. It does the cyclic idle stuff ok, and arms the AL at my preset RPM and TPS % - and makes it launch like a rocket! which is all good - however, I had to turn it off for the weekend as it was doing something very wierd - when the AL is working - if you back off the throttle (to brake for a corner or simply push in the clutch) the motor holds @ 4000rpm until the AL times out (currently 5 seconds) and I can't seem to be able to change that RPM - I tried backing out the idle screw and changing the arming RPM in case it was using that. Also, we unplugged the idle stepper plug in case that was causing a problem. I suspect we may need to retard the timing when AL is activated? Also, in the settings, the 3 tabs for AL ignition cut/fueld and ign trim the headings are in italics and it says inactive - not sure if this is right or not? I've compared these tables with the G3 example map that comes with the PC link software and they seem to be about right. Also, I disabled the AL by setting the activation to a digital input that doesn't exist - but the car is a complete pig to drive - @ 100km/h it's not too bad but @ 50km/h it's impossible (and quite embarrassing!!) - is this normal? any advice you could give would be greatly appreciated! Also, I can email a copy of the current map if that would help... Steve.

Ashley, I read the help about entering values and i am hitting enter, but it still does not show the numbers - as stated when i hit enter it changes the field to blue to show it's changed but I can't see anything!! it should have the latest firmware as it only arrived yesterday from you guys and I downloaded the PCLink software on tuesday!!

ok, I've figured out what's going on - the numbers in the fields aren't displaying - If I use Q and A or enter a figure the field goes blue to show it's changed from what's stored , but it doesn't show me the numbers themselves - anyone come across this before? So onto my question proper - once AL is enabled and the settings panel filled it, do you need to set the tables or are the default values (mostly zeros!) a good starting point? thanks.

hi. just finished installing my new evolink G3 - very impressed - car started first time and seems to run ok (well, it idles and revs) - was hoping to annoy the neighbours by turning on the anti-lag (mode 2 - Gp.N) - but it's all a bit confusing! Car is going onto the dyno tomorrow morning so I'm not too concerned, but it's giving me grief when I try to enter values into the settings panel (i.e. cyclic idle limit etc) - it doesn't display the numbers I'm entering and when I hit enter it either does nothing or tells me that I've entered a number outside the limits. wha? Mostly curious as - like I said - it's going on the dyno to get turned by someone who knows what they're doing!

you're kidding right? reading that website, there isn't a single scientific fact on it. in fact, I would guess that the money you'd spend to convert your engine to H20 power would supply you in petrol for many decades - which is how long it would take you to realise you're being scammed!

Is there such a thing as an EvoLink plus G3 - i.e. a link+ plug-in with all the motorsport features? Thanks.