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Grant Baker

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Everything posted by Grant Baker

  1. Tried a 3rd laptop... problem sorted... Actually incredible that this turned out to be the issue. Very very weird.
  2. OK... Not laptop or comms cable. Any bright ideas fellas?
  3. Right, the plot thickens... Jumped the power and earth cables. Definitely the +12v rather than earth. However, as soon as the engine cranks, the laptop loses comms still! Engine runs and purrs away, but comms gone. Just about to try a different laptop and comms cable. Will report back.
  4. Awesome. Thanks. Never had this before. Voltage on pin 38 *was* going from 12.4v-10.9v-9.6v-7.7v-5.4v-3.3v. So an earth issue may also make sense. What is a little odd is that it ran fine on stock ECU.
  5. Have you seen comms lost with poor earth?
  6. And as another addendum, it’s actually comms that are being lost, rather than voltage. So why would ecu power down / drop comms while cranking?
  7. Added a 12v supply to pin 38. This didn't fix it... Power is being lost to the ECU even though 12v at ECU now... Any ideas?
  8. Hey guys, Just fitted an S15 plugin to a PS13 Sylvia. All pins doing as they should etc, but losing 12v to ECU on cranking. Seems that Pin 38 (ECCS 14v Relay) is losing power on cranking. Is this normal on the PS13? Pin 34 is starter signal Pin 36 is Ignition Signal and is live when cranking. Should we swap Pin 38 & Pin 36?
  9. I've set this up on 2 cars now and it works fine Tim. Done it exactly as Adam says, but I used Can DI8
  10. I'll give you a shout tomorrow or Friday Tim
  11. I need to control a simple exhaust flap in an exhaust pipe. I need to send a signal by CAN to the JTI MEU to control it. It needs to open when a DI is active and close when the DI is de activated. The flap has no feedback and takes 0.4s to open or close. Tim has said that the MEU will need to see 50% when “idle “ and 25% to shut the flap and 75% to open it. So, Output (any output that can be sent by CAN) needs to sit at 50% until the DI is active and then send 75% for 0.4s, then go back to 50%. When DI drops / deactivates the output needs to go to 25% for 0.4s, then go back to 50%.
  12. Bump! Adam - any chance of some guidance on how to do this strategy with FP Duty so we can send this over CAN?
  13. Probably the best option!
  14. That's odd... It's been in the last few versions as far as I'm aware??
  15. It is a K Series yes, fitted to an MG ZT, with the sensor in the top face of the gearbox, not the rear face. OEM wiring diagrams show both Crank and Cam sensors to have a 12v feed... It's the only MG/Rover to use Hall Sensors for crank AND cam. I'll check the wiring done by the sparky on Monday. Out of interest, do you tend to see these more as rising edge or falling edge? Thanks again!
  16. Sure, I realise that. But just checking 12v sensor is ok, rather than 5v. If so, I can look at the wiring properly.
  17. Grant Baker

    12v Hall Sensor

    Hi I assume there is no problem with using a 12v Hall sensor? I'm just finishing an MG ZT Turbo (Rover sensors) and the crank and cam sensors are 3 wires with the OEM wiring diagram showing 12v, signal, earth. I'm getting no signal from the sensors though... Tried with and without pullup. Crank oscilloscope in PC Link shows a flat line and no signal at all. The pattern is a Rover 1L6 style. Any ideas?
  18. And also switch to ignition cut if you want it "different".
  19. There are some 3 and 4 bar GM sensors around that are not "GM"... The 4 bar non genuine one works well and I do have the calibration information for that one at work. The 3 bar non genuine one also works well but I don't recall if I have the calibration details for it. Will look.
  20. Hi I'm trying to produce a GP PWM output that does the following based on a single DI Input: When DI is on, output of the GP PWM to be 75% for 0.4s, then return to 50% When DI is switched off, the output of the GP PWM to be 25% for 0.4s, then return to 50%. So default state of PWM is 50%. It's actually being transmitted via CAN to a JTI Mini Expansion Unit and the MEU is controlling a DC Motor, which is an Exhaust noise regulator. I've been thinking of setting the GP PWM table to have DI State vs Timer 1 and then the output when DI1 "On" from 0-0.4S to be 75%, then 0.5S to 1S to be 50%. And then DI1 "off" from 0-0.4S to be 25%, then 0.5S to 1S to be 50%What would the PWM change to when the timer is stopped though?? Also, what would "reset" the timer as if it's reset when on, it won't also reset and allow 25% for 0.4S... You can reset on "change of state", but you have to specify which change rather than "any" change. Any guidance would be appreciated.
  21. Thanks, I drilled a sensor today and tried it before and after. No difference at all when using a 10-8mm stud and 8mm hole, or using an M10 bolt and drilled sensor. Same knock levels, same background noise etc etc.
  22. Hey, Anybody know of a Bosch Style "donut" Knock Sensor with a 10mm hole in it rather than 8mm? Currently I'm having some step down studs made, but would love to do it with a simple sensor change instead!
  23. Grant Baker

    Store Failed

    Will check first thing tomorrow. Have had it on another ECU a few years ago. Different laptop. This ECU has done it since first install. Had it back recently for a tweak and updated firmware while it was in just in case, but made no difference. Thank you.
  24. Grant Baker

    Store Failed

    Yes. That’s correct
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