Grant Baker

This is exactly what the DTA and Omex boxes allow... Brilliant for Cam setup, injection timing etc.

You could also use a 3 port solenoid to control the "leak" from that line?

Hi Another one from another brand of ECU that I find useful (Omex / DTA)... An external box that plugs into the Laptop that allows you to alter fuel / ignition in the cells you are currently in, then "enter" them into the map. So you can quickly turn a knob to get the fuel and timing how you want it very very quickly. Great thing about this is that you can assign the knobs to various parameters, like fuel, ignition, boost, injection timing etc etc. Who else thinks this would be a great tool for tuning the Link? Cheers, Grant

Hiya, I think it would be really useful to be able to turn off interpolation during mapping, so that the cell you are in is absolute and not blended with cells around it. This is a feature on another ECU we use and I'd forgotten how useful it was until I mapped one the other day. Cheers, Grant

Thanks. Used a CAN PCB cable and cut it... Works perfectly Thanks. Used a CAN PCB cable and cut it... Works perfectly

Hi Guys, If I need to get CAN H and CAN L from a plug in ECU, it seems I need to use the following: CAN PCB Cable http://dealers.linkecu.com/CANPCB_2 - This gets me from the ECU to a CAN port. CAN DASH Cable - http://dealers.linkecu.com/CANDASH_2 - This gets from CAN Port to bare wires. Are instructions included on which wires are CAN H / L? Or, is it possible to cut the CAN connector off the end of the CAN PCB cable and wire to that directly? If so, which wires are which? Thanks in advance.

Hi Guys Do you know if the 1JZ and 2JZ idle valve wiring is the same? The help file for the Supra Plugin shows it for the 2J but nothing for the 1J ( I'm using a wire in) Thanks in advance.

Hi Guys, What tool do you use for crimping expansion connector pins? Something like this work ok: https://uk.rs-online.com/mobile/p/crimp-tools/7106499/

OK Cool - I'll wire it as per OE, but wire the ECU end as per 3 wire in help file. Thanks

Thank you. Very interesting. Was actually sold by another ECU manufacturer as a high boost Petrol TMAP sensor... So 50 KPA to 400 KPA, 0.3 - 4.8V output at 5V input. -40 > 130 deg C,

Hi In the Help files, for wiring a 4 wire ISCV it says to use 4 AUX Outputs. However, the ISCV I have on a particular engine only needs 2. It has 4 pins - 12v, Earth, Up, Down. Can we use this? SBZ005 (MG/Rover) Is the part number.

Hi there, Has anybody got any calibration and wiring info for this sensor? Bosch MAP Sensor 0281002316 It's a combined IAT and MAP Sensor. Thanks!

And also, the stock ECU fires the injectors in pairs. I assume we have to re-wire this so that the injectors are wired to an individual injector driver each?

Hi there, Anybody know if the 1JZGTE trigger setup is the same for VVTI And non-VVTI? Just wiring in an ECU now to a non-VVTI Engine...

The ST205 base map is pretty good. If you are ok (fuelling wise) at idle, you should be good to drive to your tuner to get it properly mapped. Just don't boost it or rev it high - nurse it there

Engine off, key on. I've sorted it now by doing the fans how I prefer doing them!

Using this video: https://vdoubleyou-scott.tinytake.com/sf/Mzc0NTYwXzIxMjE0NTU (Thanks!) The fan works well on PWM, but for some reason, still runs with engine off...

Out of interest, would this work with a straight on/off output or do you have to use a GP PWM output? Any examples of setup? We tend to use aftermarket fans and go with a simple on-off relay, but have got a fairly stock car here at the moment that I'm setting up with stock fan controller.

Hi Guys, Anybody using onboard knock on an ST205/MR2 plugin G4+? Having a few issues with it not actually picking up anything at all on a customer's car. He wired the Knock sensor himself but I've checked and it is correct. Interestingly the pinout info in the help file does not show a Knock Input, but Link's Tech dept confirmed the pins are as per stock. Cheers

Just to add... We've seen this a few times now and had to convert to aftermarket trigger wheels. On stock triggers we were getting false RPM readings when we looked at logs - as crazy as a 10,000rpm jump in 2/1000 of a second!!! MGT Motorsport in the UK sell a kit that converts to a "Crank" trigger (36 teeth IIRC) and a single tooth "ref" signal on cam. Works a treat

Interesting... Having it in the return seems wrong to me as by then the fuel has been to the rail and back, however, I assume that all fuel in the tank would have "mixed" properly and this isn't an issue. Probably overthinking it...

Hi, If you have twin fuel lines, do you think you should use twin Ethanol Sensors when using bio fuel or Ethanol? Can you get any Ethanol sensors that have AN fittings rather than push on tails?

Russ Paton from RA. He's your man

Hi I get asked this regularly - "I've got two identical ports on my (Xtreme / Thunder etc) - which one is CAN and which one is the PC port?" Now, one of them has an orange o-ring on it (which might get lost), so that helps... But I'd love to see either a different connector on one, or at least a label / engraving...

We are doing something similar. There is apparently a similar trigger already in the presets... Hopefully Simon will recall which one it is as I've forgotten!