Grant Baker

That's a 60-2 trigger pattern.

Make sure your using 12v from an ignition source and not constant battery 12v

Hi
Another one from another brand of ECU that I find useful (Omex / DTA)...
An external box that plugs into the Laptop that allows you to alter fuel / ignition in the cells you are currently in, then "enter" them into the map. So you can quickly turn a knob to get the fuel and timing how you want it very very quickly.

Great thing about this is that you can assign the knobs to various parameters, like fuel, ignition, boost, injection timing etc etc.
Who else thinks this would be a great tool for tuning the Link?
Cheers, Grant

We would need to see a log to confirm but I'm highly suspicious that your issue is trigger error.  
The Nissan 360 trigger works ok on relatively stock engines when all mechanical parts are in good condition, however they become much less useful in heavily modified engines, or when parts of the CAS drive become worn.  Heavier valve springs, more aggressive cam shafts and extended/higher RPM means there is much more torsional vibration on the camshaft drive and since the "slots" are only 1 deg wide it doesnt take much of a "shake" to cause trigger error.
If you want to run an RB engine to 9000RPM you should have a proper crank trigger.  You may get away with one of the aftermarket "24 slot" discs but really they are still not ideal.

Hi
Would like the ability to produce a power graph  / torque graph from a logged run.
It can be done with a 3rd party piece of software (Virtual Dyno), so don't see why it isn't possible within PC Link?
If the correct vehicle data is entered appropriately then it should be pretty accurate...

Hi Guys,
Here's one for you...
If you wanted to train up a new employee and get them the basics of engine tuning without spending hours with them first...Would you sign them up to HP Academy or EFI University?
Both seem good and personally I like the HPA seminars etc.
Any opinions?

From our end we certainly have more to do with HPA and they are focused on online learning.
EFI University has been around longer but have not had any direct dealings with them.

I'm a VIP member on HPA and have learnt alot, I recommend Andre and the team . A lot of there webinars are using the LINK so there's not much more you could ask for. 

+1 for HPA. 

 

The Delphi coils are direct equivalents for the Denso 02240 coils- so same plugs, shape and wiring  buuuuuttt they're easier to get hold of (for me) and as a further bonus, are cheaper. 
Edit:
I received a response from Delphi regarding dwell times for their GN10312 coils (Denso 02229 equivalents) and they are:
Battery Voltage (V)

Dwell Time (msec)

8

5.60

10

3.40

12

2.48

14

2.00

16

1.65

18

1.42
 

Good progress!
I expect that ID 320 is the message from the ECU to the ESP, and that ID 1A0 is the message from the ESP to the dash.
If you disconnect the ECU, and configure the CANdo to constantly transmit on ID 320 with the 1st byte as '0', then power up the system and see if the ESP module then sends out a value '0' on CAN ID 1A0 (2nd Byte).

I don't have any information on CAN IDs 520 or 588, our test vehicle did not have them. If you no ECU fitted and the use CANdo you should be able to confirm if these IDs come from the ECU or not.
Scott.

Grant is correct, if the lamps are controlled over CAN then the problem lies with the data being sent and received on the bus rather than the wiring of the bus. I've just increased all members data limit, so you should be able to post now.
Scott.

You should log some of the PID's and also log the target position of the throttle plate. Most of the time when Idle becomes so inconsistent I switch strategies to open loop method of control and the car becomes much more stable. It just takes some logging and patience when tuning in the E-throttle control.

You will need to set to narrow band at 6khz like Grant mentioned. Then you will need to start monitoring the knock level and adjusting gain and threshold. The only real way of setting this up correctly is listening to physical knock. But yes you will want to adjust these parameters to suit your needs.
- Rich RDE

You are right. You can do it like i did then. Use a GP output  with the conditions of your choise. Pictured is how MY second pump is switched on

Found this on a Haltech forum :
Dead Time (ms) Volts (V)
1.777ms - 8.00V
1.744ms - 8.30V
1.695ms - 8.50V
1.614ms - 8.80V
1.532ms - 9.00V
1.471ms - 9.30V
1.410ms - 9.50V
1.349ms - 9.80V
1.288ms - 10.00V
1.252ms - 10.30V
1.215ms - 10.50V
1.178ms - 10.80V
1.142ms - 11.00V
1.111ms - 11.30V
1.080ms - 11.50V
1.048ms - 11.80V
1.017ms - 12.00V
0.988ms - 12.30V
0.960ms - 12.50V
0.932ms - 12.80V
0.903ms - 13.00V
0.878ms - 13.30V
0.826ms - 13.80V
0.801ms - 14.00V
0.781ms - 14.30V
0.761ms - 14.50V
0.741ms - 14.80V
0.721ms - 15.00V
0.701ms - 15.30V
0.681ms - 15.50V
0.661ms - 15.80V
0.641ms - 16.00V

Grant, you should off asked me.

You can try my RB30 map and tweak the Master fuel setting until you get something reasonable on your wideband, I'm pretty happy with the timing map so it should be a good starting point for you. As always use at your own risk, this is by no means a properly tuned map for your engine.
You'll most probably want to reconfigure the aux outputs, temp and digital inputs etc to get everything you have set up
RB30DET_Traditional.pclr

Had this recently on an EVO 6 plug in G4+.
Stepper position for a stable 1000rpm idle was 92+/-2.
As throttle was applied to pull away, in real time, the stepper was jumping to 60ish steps (opening the throttle more), which meant that idle was at 1600-1700rpm. It then took about 30-40 seconds for the stepper to close to 90 and to come back down to 1000RPM 
So in stop-start traffic the car was a nightmare.
We had to change loads of parameters, but I'm still not happy with it if I'm honest. Still jumps to 60 steps on light throttle appplication, but managed to get it to drop faster.
I can't see why it's doing the drop to 60 steps! I've not told it to, so it's got to be hidden somewhere.

Hi Grant, fair comment.
I'll pass this on and ask for the matrix to be updated.

Hey,
Let me just first say, that the cruise control function is BRILLIANT.
In conjunction with e-throttle, it's turned my car into something very jerky and uncomfortable to drive, into something silky smooth while cruising. Total game changer, absolutely love it.

However, as always there are a few extra features which could be a cool addition.
1. Being able to assign a DI to a preset "set" speed. As an example... I only ever turn cruise control on to either 80kph, 100kph, etc.
It would be cool if in the cruise control menu there was:
Set1 = 70kph
Set2 = 105kph
Or something like that. Then you could assign Set1 to DI5 or whatever and it will always go to that speed when you hit the button.

2. Some up and down speed buttons, so you can increase or decrease the Set speed in 5kph increments or something like that.

3. Being able to change the Set value in Pclink in realtime by either wheel speed or rpm.
One unexpectedly awesome feature of cruise control, is being able to hold the car at the dead centre of a column of cells. When you go up and down hills (or load it up with handbrake or dyno or something) You move through the various load zones which works awesomely for getting great results with the mixture map or Quick tune.  So it would be cool to be able to set the "set" by RPM so you can get it bang on the centre of a column of cells for this purpose.

 

Hi everyone,
If you wish or need to contact Tech support, LINK TECH SUPPORT is open Monday to Friday during New Zealand business hours.
Both Simon and Scott are available and their email address is [email protected]
Scott also works until 9 pm  (please correct me if I am wrong Scott) for tech support.
I DO NOT work for LINK but also offer my services 7 days a week as well as strange hours when I can't sleep.
I can be contacted at [email protected]
Thanks for using LINK.
Regards
Dave.

Dear All
Happy New Year every body
I finished my map on the traditionnal fuel mode
I want swap on Modelled fuel equation map because after i want use gasoline and ethanol fuel.
I miss some information for start correctly the set up of modelled fuel equation mode
My car set up is : PTE injectors 1000cc, fuel pressure is std, i connect also one Ethanol content sensor to my G4+ Plug In, i have all time information fuel temperature and % of Ethanol
I miss this information :
Fuel Charge Cooling Coefficient Min Effective Pulse Width Charge Temp Correction Table Can you help me for set up this parameter ?
Also i have one question concerning the Knock control. OEM ecu the knock is connected
I want to know if it is same on Link G4+ Pluig In?
This function is available? i can use knock control fonction?
Best regards
ludovic
Ethanol Content Sensor

Hi all,  I bought a G4+ plug in a while ago and will soon swap out my M800 for it. I did it for a number of reasons, ease of use, knock control ,logging in the one program, only thing was no onboard wide band, so have a KMS  can unit as well. 
Where I live in Japan no one tunes a Motec or Link, there is a dynapack down the road but its in an Auto Style warehouse (autobacs) and only for dyno pulls to get a power sheet. They will not rent it out to DIY tuners or any Tuner.  So until I find a sympathetic tuning shop close by that I can do some steady state tuning myself, then a road tune is  the best I can do till then.
So to set up my config file (wanted to do modeled but will start with traditional) I was thinking of transferring all the data from the Motec file ie Fuel, master fuel, injector timing, ignition etc. obviously using the same xy scales. and will just back off the ignition timing 2 or 3 degrees and hopefully I should be reasonably close and able to drive it to a long slow isolated hill road close to me haaa to get the fuel right.
Its an r33 gtr which I have owned for 15 years and its running a 2.8 Tomei internals 9.0:1 compression. presently running around 410awkw with garret 5s, engine recently stripped down for check and renewed bearing rings etc.( I'm into planned maintenance).  Putting a single EFR 8374 on soon as well so I do not want to bugger anything up.
I can throw it on a car truck and take it somewhere in Tokyo (5hrs)  but that's no fun. 
Please tell me what you think and all advice taken onboard.
Cheers!
 
 
 
 

It will be 7bar then. Go for the 7 bar cal in PC link