Hamish Janes

Update; The car went in to be tuned at Prestige Tuning and Motorsport. It made 110kw at 14psi. The clutch started to slip and as predicted, the injectors maxed out but overall, a great result. Thanks everyone for your help with my project. Hamish

Thanks Adam. The injectors are 280cc which is 30% larger than the factory ones. Im only expecting a bit more power than factory so they should be about right. Ill adjust the deadband and see how I go. From what you and Steve are saying, its just my base settings are incorrect, so my tuner will be able to get it running right. Thanks again

Fuel pressure set correctly. There is no tps, the factory one is just and off/on switch. There is no lambda sensor at this stage as the tuner will be using his gear. I was just hoping someone could check my base settings to make sure they are in the ball park. I'll check the acceleration enrichment. Thanks.

I have the car running well at idle and its booked in for a tune on Friday. Ive taken it for a couple of road tests (ground up rebuild of car) and it isn't very responsive and the major problem is that at about 3500rpm it seems to hit some sort of limiter. Could someone please take a look at my logs and PCL. and advise if its something to do with my base settings or if its just because it needs to be tuned. I don't want to get it to the tuner on Friday and find that I have some mechanical fault if I can help it. Base timing is set to 10 btdc and 30psi fuel pressure at idle, rising rate regulator. You guys are awesome!thanks Hamish Uno Turbo2.pclr Log 2016-11-12 8;18;55 pm.llg Log 2016-11-12 8;19;35 pm.llg

Thanks Adam. Ive changed that setting and it runs well. Ill adjust the fuel pressure and timing and go from there. Hamish

Thanks Adam. Attached are 2 logs for starting with engine dying. I think there could be a triggering problem but you would know better than me! I have no idea where to go from here. Log 2016-11-6 7;44;20 pm.llg log.llg

Ive got the engine started and running well.....for about 5 second then it stops. It happens every time and runs for the same amount of time every time. The injection pulse seems to be the culprit as when I have my LED light connected to the injector trigger terminal, I get a good flash while the engine is running but then the light pulse changes (doesn't disappear) and the engine stalls. I don't have a scope good enough at home to get a good idea. Are there any config setting that I may have missed that could cause this or any other ideas? My injectors are keeping voltage while it stalls and my coils keep voltage and a good trigger voltage when it stalls Im running; 36-1 crank wheel, vr sensor 1 tooth cam trigger, vr sensor sequential injection coil on plug ignition Ignore the first pcl. file. I realised I didn't have the crank trigger on multi/missing tooth but on multi tooth. Changed it and no difference. I calculate my trigger offset to be -95 as the missing tooth passes the sensor at 95 btdc But runs well on the current setting until it dies. I have no fault codes and both triggers are arming thanks Hamish Uno Turbo.pclr Uno Turbo2.pclr

Hi all Ive got a set of 4 Diamond FK330 coil-on-plug ignition coils from a 4a91 Mitsubishi engine. They are going in the Fiat Uno turbo im building. The coils have inbuilt igniters which is what I am after. Upon bench testing them, I have found that they are triggered positively. Im struggling to find information on the Link help software that will tell me if the G4+ Atom will allow for positive triggering or positive arming. Anybody able to help? thanks

I've modified the tooth and have a much better pattern. It's been an interesting experiment. Thanks.

So I've mocked up a cam trigger wheel with one tooth. The picture is of the signal I'm getting using the sensor. It's all mocked up on a lathe at the moment but wanted to clarify that my pattern is ok. I take it the ecu only sees the positive voltage. There is a small delay between the positive and negative spikes which shouldn't matter if the ecu only uses the positive spike. Correct me if I'm wrong please. I can make the tooth narrower which will make the delay between spikes shorter. You won't be able see from the picture but I'm getting 2v at idle which should be high enough

Always learning something new. Thanks. So, does the cam trigger tooth need to line up in the same position at TDC to the crank trigger missing tooth? Or again, just anywhere and adjust the offset?

Thanks Adam. Is there information about this anywhere? I thought the idea of the missing tooth was to signal TDC, same with the cam? Or am I right in thinking that with a Link, the ecu just needs to see a signal gap (missing tooth). If the missing tooth is at 90 BTDC, does the ECU have a programmable offset because if i want my #1 spark plug to fire at TDC, and my signal is 90 degrees out then my firing time will be wrong. Or am I missing something here. The standard engines that I usually work on have the TDC signal at TDC. I cant figure out why it is different with aftermarket ECU's. I know I could just follow the instructions and it will work but id like to know why. Thanks again

Next question. I have a 36-1t trigger wheel on the way which I will mount to the crank pulley. When lining up the wheel, should the middle of the the missing tooth section should line up with the middle of the sensor at TDC? Is this the same with the cam trigger? Im an Auto Electrician and feel I am putting myself out there with these possibly obvious questions but this is the first time I have had to install trigger wheels. Diagnostic work is a different ball game to setting this sort of stuff up. Thanks

Sorry, that was a typo, I did mean 24 tooth. Excellent, thanks so much for your help once again.

Actually, flag that, I do understand. I'll buy a 24 tooth wheel and fit it to the crank pulley. I'll run two groups of 2 injectors and single coil with distributor as per factory. I take it I'll need to remove a tooth from the new 24 tooth wheel for tdc? Or can I use the original 2 tooth wheel and sensor for tdc and the new wheel and sensor for position?

Thanks Scott. I'm getting a bit confused here, this is nothing like the simple Toyotas I'm used to. The dizzy is just that, a distributor, no sensor inside. From factory this thing runs just the two crank sensors. So am i correct in thinking that my 2 tooth crank wheel is useless? Am I needing to install the 24 tooth wheel to the crank pulley and also somehow fit a 1 tooth wheel to the cam pulley? Is this my only option for direct spark and sequential injection?

Thanks for the replies. The engine does run just 1 coil but would be ideal to have individual injection and at least a wasted spark setup. I can install a crank trigger wheel to the front of the crank pulley but will this give me what I need for this? I could squeeze the very large 58/60 wheel on or ideally the smaller 24 tooth wheel. Thanks again

Hi all. I'm wiring a G4+ to a 1301cc Uno turbo. It runs a reluctor type crank sensor off the crank pulley which has 2 teeth and also another reluctor type sensor which takes its signal off the flywheel ring gear teeth. At this stage I'm unsure how many teeth are on the ring gear. From another post I read, I can use the crank sensor only which isn't ideal and I'll need to run large dwell on cranking. My question is, can the other sensor reading the ring gear be used as the sync. Or any ideas? Worst case is I convert a 4age 20v dizzy to suit. Thanks in advance. I should also add that even though my profile says NEWBIE, I have extensive experience with these ecu's.