Jurgen Biggelaar

Hi Gustaf. I know you have this working for you currently, but if you were wanting to remove that Autronic reluctor adapter, I believe lowerering your arming thresholds at that RPM by about 1v could help. Ensure you have only level 1 trigger filters applied to these trigger inputs as anything higher than this could also be causing issues for you at that RPM. If your keen on trying that, give it a go and let us know how you get on. Jurgen

You should most definately be using resistive plugs AND leads. The most likely reason you may be loosing the comms signal at high engine RPM is the increased electrical noise produced by the motor at that end of the scale. Resistive plugs and leads usually resolve this and are a must. An alternative to this is raising slightly, your trigger filter levels and/or arming tresholds, but I would recommend firstly trying the affore mentioned option. Leave this alternative as your last resort if everything up until this point operates well already. Jurgen

Yes the boost control is definately going to get you closer to the mark now as you can span the table axis over almost anything that makes sense now. The older G3 firmware would only let you do RPM on the X axis and only a few options for the Y axis (and none of those options were MAP). Given you can now span over MAP, this allows for a lot more accurate boost control. The most noteable difference running the G4 firmware would be the logging ability, the ability to configure 3D tables in lots more ways and true fuel correction based on IAT on the fly. You will also gain other new features such as virtual auxilaries, engine codes by way of your engine check lamp indicating specific problems without having to connect, and various others. And of course you will get ongoing free downloads of up and coming new features in the G4 firmware Jurgen.

Yes they are very different in what you can span against. The G4 series can have almost anything on any axis of the 3D table that makes sense, where as the G3 series you can only have the X axis as RPM and the Y axis set up against either boost adjust (manual controller 0-5v out), by gear, or by TPS. This is the big difference. Jurgen

Hi Shaz. I would recommend the G4 Storm or Xtreme (both are wire in options). The Xtreme has 8 ch fuel/ignition and the Storm has 4 of each. The Storm will still be good for this if you are happy to run with group fuel (paired injectors) and wasted spark ignition. The Xtreme will allow full sequential of both and has a few more DI/AUX capabilities. For a harness to suit the application, there is nothing Link can provide standard or otherwise... You are down to wiring it all direct from the ECU. Jurgen

Hi Chris. Under any normal circumstances, the speedo out was always accompanied by a mechanical device (gearbox to dash and not run by the ECU at all). I do believe there are such devices out there though. I couldn't recommend any specific ones to use, only confirm they exist (mechanical in/digital out). The V5 just can't do speedo stuff. Going for a later model Link platform is the only way around this, G2 or later. Jurgen

Hi Nathan. Logging on the G1 series is possible with either a Link Display or PCLink. There is definately no on board logging as you will have figured out already, but PCLink back in those days still had the capability... Isn't that just a cool thing? When connected to the ECU and engine running, press CTRL+F7. This will bring up the logging panel down where the runtime displays are usually. From there it should be quite apparent how it works. Have fun. Jurgen

Hi Nathan. Serial Links are still available, and you can use a hand controller but why would you? The actual problem there though is finding them, as Link don't manufacture them anymore. Unless you are really lucky in finding one (if you want to go that way), I think you're down to PCLink. Might be time to find an inverter for the boat Besides PCLink gives so much more of an over all look at what is going on, I think you would be doing yourself in not to use it if you can... And you can.

Hi Dan. I am so sorry I have been late to reply... I hope you were the guy who won the auction as this would have been mint. It would need to be sent to us and at a cost of $104.00 + GST (priced at the time 26/11/09) we could configure to run your CA engine. PC tuning is available on these too. Jurgen

Hi Lefteris. I noticed this post was not replied to and is quite old. Have you managed to get this working yet, or are you still struggling with it?

Hi Newun. The converter box and software to plug in to the laptop you speak of is nothing that I am aware of. Officially the TurboLink can only use the hand controller. Someone may have got confused with the set up on Link's full ECU systems that work this way. The most unfortunate thing about this excersize is the hand controllers are no longer produced by Link, so they are as rare as hens teeth so to speak. If you manage to find one of these, hold on to it and never let it out of your sight. Jurgen

Hi Tim. Does the chopper wheel inside the distributor have a whole lot of little slots around the outside, and four large ones closer in toward the centre? If so, this is the crank AND cam signal, and is typically referred to as Nissan ECCS 360 optical triggering. The outside slots are crank signal, and inside ones are your sync. On the G4 you can select 'Nissan 360 opto' for your triggering pattern. It is pre-configured but setting up the widest slot in PCLink is still necessary. In the PCLink help file, please see 'Nissan 360 Opto Trigger Decoding' for this Jurgen

Hi Chris. Unfortunately the limitation has been reached of this ECU. It cannot be modified to have any calculated control with boost pressures over 1.5bar of boost (around 22PSI), and purchasing a more capable MAP sensor still leaves the ECU with no input that can make sense of it. I think it's time to move to the G4. Jurgen

Are some symptoms to your problem including trigger inputs that are menial (1-2v or lower), ignition out very weak or non-existent, does the ECU count errors? Each reluctor has it's +ve side and -ve side, and the way you have it wired currently sounds correct. Inside the ECU the power and signal grounds are not commoned, meaning even though you have a power ground, the reluctor grounds will be floating. As they need a reference voltage, check you have actually tied the common of these reluctors via the loom to the chassis/block and that all your earthing positions are clean and tight. To test it, leave everything as you have it and strap the 'signal ground' wire from the ECU with a clip lead to the chassis as well. Let me know if this helps. Jurgen

Hi David. Try checking the polarity of the reluctor sensors and that the wiring is correct for them as per the manual. Also given you have SUBTOY36 decoding and a dual reluctor sub-board, you most definately will need to check at least one of the dip switches on the sub-board is turned to 'on'. These dip switches can be used to influence a retard/advance value. Jurgen

Hi Rob. This plug in has dedicated anti-lag software in it, only programable by a hand controller. This leaves you in the position of either keeping the anti-lag if you are needing it or updating it to a standard 'WRXROAD' PC tunable firmware. In short you can only have one, or the other (PC tune or anti-lag). W97LAGN is the anti-lag firmware. 18 Oct denotes release date.775 is the encrypted unlock code Hope that clears things up a little. Jurgen Previously Rob Hawxwell wrote: Hi all, i just picked this up for my 97 wrx and would like to find out any info about it Can it be upgraded to pc tune or is it limited to the link tuning module? The only markings i can see on a sticker on the chip are: W97LAGN 18 oct 00 775 Any help is appreciated Cheers