Jurgen Biggelaar

Hi Fagadar. Unfortunately AUX 1-4 cannot highside drive by design. So this leaves you with AUX 5-8, which I see you have the idle stepper on. Clearly you are a little stuch with the output thing, however. I looked at the schematics of our plug in for the EVO9, there are no special things in the way of this lowside PWM driving AUX1 - It looks like the fan controller does take a low to drive it. You will probably find the controller has it's own pull up internally, so when measured it will read high. Then the output from AUX 1 starts to work by pulling it low with it's PWM. Let us know how you get on... Jurgen

Hi Niklas. I believe the Subaru sensors act as a quasi wide band (in short not the real thing). I am not sure how you would make that work for you. My understanding is the AFR/Lambda correction it is not going to really work with it. I know that if you used an LC-1 or NGK AFX wide band kit or the likes, then it would work just fine. You really want something that can output 0-5v in relation to O2. Jurgen

Hi Tony. As the Storm operates injector drives in 'odds & then evens' with batch fire, you are better to leave them as 2 groups of 3 as you suggest. The main reason for doing this would be consistant fuel delivery. If you do 3 groups of 2, essentially you are firing 4 injectors (odds), and then 2 (evens). The resulting fuel pressure drop when injectors are operating will not be the same firing 4 as it would firing 2 injectors. By having 3 off odds, and 3 off even drives, you will have consistant fuel pressure and delivery. Jurgen.

Hi Simon. Yes we already have a Bosch sensor calibration to suit the sensor we sell (part No. above). And no, on the 'fooling' thing, as you probably have figured out finding the trim tables. If you haven't figured it out, and for others that might read this, the trim tables work as just that... A trim. On a single row, or multi dimentional table you will have IAT on one axis, and a load on the other (usually TP)... If you leave it all as it was it should be pretty good as it is worked out over an ideal gas law. The numbers in the middle trim% of fuel delivery by adding or subtracting as needed. Jurgen

Thanks for that Josh. Good info for some. Jurgen

Alberto - Cannot view picture and there is no text to explain your issue.

I would not recommend doing that. I think your've missed my point slightly however. Because you already have CE on INJ #5 (looking at the schematics), you have everything there you need. Go to INJ #5 (if this is what CE Lamp hangs off - Is under Aux:FUEL) and make it look like the example photo of AUX #5 with your RPM figures wanted and so on. You do not need to because it's only a few button pushes away from working without wiring, but another option is IGN# 3 & 4. This would be your High/Low speed fan relays. If you need to have a spare AUX, you could common these relays to just the high speed fan output and use the other for an AUX. But don't do that... It's done already, you just need to push the right buttons. Does this make sense? Jurgen

Hi Niklas. You are correct that the front one does not go to the ECU header at all. We believe this sensor to be next to pointless to tune off so left this out of the equation. The likelyhood of the Link making sense of this sensor is also not high given we would not have a calibration for this sensor either. Jurgen

Hi Amvegeta. There is no shift light feature as such, and you most likely have your CE light hanging off an AUX already anyway. There is something kind of cool you can do here and make it a CE light AND Shift light - Possibly even more multi-function than that The actual AUX the CE lamp is wired to, turn that in to a 'GP Output' and set it up as shown in the photo below. Then set up a virtual AUX with the CE function as shown too. Once you study this photo you will see what I mean. Basically set up like this, the CE light will come on at over 6400RPM acting as your shift light, and this AUX will also be echoing the CE light function too. http://i903.photobucket.com/albums/ac236/linkelectro/CEshiftcombo.jpg Hope that helps. Jurgen

Hi Guys. I have also confirmed this, however there is a work around. No doubt this will go on a list of bugs to iron out. When using PC logging, this is not an issue at all (just proved it on my bench). The problem only exists on ECU Logging, and I have only tested this in 4.8.1.1033 (so possibly previous versions too). When using the 'ECU' logging feature, and wanting to log AFR, it appears you have to set the logging parameter up as the channel the WB is on (will come up as An V4 - Wideband). Weirdly enough, the logging will start to work as it should by displaying AFR on this channel. Let me know how that goes, I think this will resolve your immediate problem of 'hard to tune' as doing this should see you with an AFR data stream. Jurgen

Don't forget there are good stories that no one ever tells or hears too... If they are close, Thor are the main Link distributor meaning they really know the product to get the most out of it. I would seriously consider them! Jurgen

Yea that looks like it would work, you have the right idea but all the RB's are 72 pin... That 64 pin one is for S15, GTiR and so on with 64 pin. Find one like that with 72 pins and you're on to a winner. Jurgen

No sweat in this case William. I can confirm we no longer have any of these in stock, so it's about your best bet. Jurgen

Oh sorry. In this case, the latest PCLink should have worked for you unless you have a FW version older than 4.4.3. The latest is 4.8.1 downloaded here: http://www.linkecu.com/support/downloads/pclink-download/pclink-g4-v4.8.1.1033 Make sure the fundamentals are there first by confirming these things. Can you see the Link ECU in the Windows device manager when plugged in to it? It should appear under 'Ports'. If this is not appearing, you most likely have not got the USB driver installed, or it is having a problem with the port it has been assigned. You get the option to say 'yes' or 'no' during install to have the driver installed or not... Did you say 'yes' to this? If you are running a version 4.4.3 or prior, you will need to download this PCLink to connect to it as it is (ie. If for some reason you did not want to install new firmware) http://www.linkecu.com/support/downloads/pclink-download/PCLink%20V4.4.3%20Setup.exe. If the fundamentals are OK, then just make the moves as though you were going to do a FW (firmware) update. It will open a box and tell you the current version, and what it is wanting to update that version to. You still have the option there to opt out of the update, but at least you will know what version FW you are on. NOTE: Always make sure PCLink is communicating over a port number LOWER than Port 10. Jurgen

Hi Simon. The best input to use will be one of the 'AN Temp' channels as they have been designed for temperature related things and has pull up resistors and all sorts to just make it work well for you. It gets a bit compicated when using a normal ANVolt channel for a temp sensor, so just stick with that. In PCLink, temperature sensors that already have a callibration in there are as follows... STD Bosch NTC, Bosch 0-280-130-017, Hella 6PT-009-109-041, Delphi AC, KTY83, Yamaha FX/FZ ECT, Yamaha FX/FZ IAT. Link sell the Bosch style NTC, and the Delphi style IAT sensors. I kow these work well through my own experiences (I like the Delphi myself). Some people do tend to believe the Bosch type does respond quicker because the body is not made from metal like the others. Jurgen

Hi Reuban. Unsure wether what!? should be happening? In most cases, it would be one or the other as you are either standing on the gas and the ECU sees this and enriches by the specified amount for a brief period... OR; you will be decellerating and the engine is in vaccuum, often bringing on an overun fuel cut depending on how the map has been programmed. Any which way you look at it, the Link units cannot perform enrichment on decell so this may answer your question well enough. Long story short, Link do not yet have "decell en-leanment", or the ability to richen the mixture during decelleration. Jurgen

Hi Sebastian. I would check your wiring... You should be seeing something in the runtimes signal wise if you have AVCS. Jurgen

Hi Trent. When you have downloaded PCLink, open the map called 'Nissan Plugin G4 RB20DET 440cc.pcl'. This is the start up map that goes out with the plug in. This should get you a lot of the way to starting up. This car used 440cc injectors however... So not a standard GTS so to speak. After a good play on the master fuel number while looking at info from a wide band, you should get a start out of it. DO NOT THRASH, CANE, TEMPT OR DRIVE ANY KIND OF DISTANCE ON THAT MAP! It is a start up map only, designed to be able to drive the car on to a trailor or dyno. It is in NO WAY a tuned map. If you drive on it, it is at your own risk! You can get the latest PCLink here... http://www.linkecu.com/support/downloads/pclink-download/pclink-g4-v4.8.1.1033 Jurgen

Hi Dale. All of our wire in units including the G4R (Black Rx ECU), come complete with quick start guide, mounting bracket, ECU, and the tuning cable. The looms as standard are 2.5M unless you ask for something different, because there are 400mm & 5M available. Link do not make looms for vehicles to fit the car itself... Just the ones that pair up with the ECU being supplied. For custom made looms you would be best seeing someone like WireLink in Christchurch. Ours have the plug to fit to the ECU and open ended other than that. Jurgen

Hi Dennis. All possible... Call or email us for pricing. We can supply the whole lot. Jurgen

Hi Kev. We don't hold these any more unfortunately, but we do have pin kits for the G3 LEM... Is it one of these (26pin)? If so these are easy enough to make up. Give us a call, or email for pricing on that... Or on how to do it if needed. Jurgen

Hi Kostas. Have you calibrated the timing on the car/ECU, even though it is the same car it is possible this is not exactly the same as the other. I do not know the Uno that well, are they the same generation... Maybe one is distributed and tyhe other is wasted spark? You have to be a little more specific to get a good answer. Are you saying you cannot communicate with the LEM with a PC? If you are not using a native serial port on your PC, check your USB/Serial adapter is seen in the Windows device manager... If it is not there - Make it work and try again. If you can see it, check it is on a COM port lower than COM10... This can also cause problems. Here are the links to the manuals you might need, if you haven't already seen them. http://www.linkecu.com/support/documentation/g1-engine-management-documentation/LEMV5INSTALL http://www.linkecu.com/support/documentation/g1-engine-management-documentation/LEMV5TUNE Jurgen

Hi Eddie. Try loading up the S15 base map from the PCLink folders and using that as a base (fuel and ignition only). You will still have to adjust functions etc on your DI's and AUX's to suit, but this map has reasonable start up numbers with a tweak of the master fuel number and the use of a wide band. The VVL can be turned off for now, as it is only an on/off type, and hopefully you will get a breath of life out of her. If your cams are wildly out, you may have issues... So it is best you dial these in first Jurgen

Hi Jeremy. It would be wisest to use ignition cut in most situations as the extra fuel on cut cylinders is not going to hurt anything, and infact can provide some cooling (it can create pops and bangs in the exhaust with the unburnt fuel however). The progressive cut works the same on fuel and ignition, where there is a pattern in the background cutting certain cylinders in one of 2 ways. The two ways are 'adaptive' and 'constant'. The adaptive makes sure the same cylinders are not being cut every single time, allowing for even heat distribution (not heating up some cylinders more than others for example). The second cuts the same cylinders everytime... This exists as a preference for some people only, as it does give a slightly smoother feel. If you have that down (how it's cutting), it just leaves explaining the progressive thing, which the help file does quite well (below). In effect, you end up with a cut feature that doesn't plaster you against the windscreen (progressive)... It will use a percentage of the full cut set by you, based on your TPS and Control Range settings in the 'advanced mode'. And progressivly reintroduce everything at a specified rate... ie. Not ALL THE POWER BACK AT ONCE - Which is handy mid-corner If you are not using the advanced mode, it still works the same but the values 'limit ignition trim' and 'limit control range' have been preset to -5deg and 200RPM respectively, and cannot be adjusted. Hard Cut (Advanced Mode Feature) This setting selects whether a hard cut will be implemented at the point specified by the Hard Limit Addition. The following options are available: · OFF - hard cutting is turned off. · Ign 100% cut - the hard cut is ignition only. · Fuel 100% cut - the hard cut is fuel only. · Fuel and Ign 100% cut - the hard cut is both fuel and ignition. Percentage Cut The percentage cut is a measure of the amount of power cut from an engine. For example 0% cut is full power, and 100% cut is the engine turned off. Limit Control Range (Advanced Mode Feature) Specifies the RPM range that the limiting operates over. The Limit control range operates under the specified RPM limit. For example, with a RPM limit set to 7000 and a control range of 200, the limit would operate between 6800 and 7000 RPM. A typical Limit Control Range would be 200RPM. Limit Ignition Trim (RPM, MAP and Speed ONLY) (Advanced Mode Feature) Specifies the amount of ignition trim applied when limiting system is active. A typical value would be -5 degrees. Hard Limit Addition (Advanced Mode Feature) Specifies the RPM past the end of the Limit Control Range at where the hard limit will apply. A typical Hard Limit Addition would be 200RPM. Cut Effect (Advanced Mode Feature) The cut effect specifies the type of cutting sequence. · Adaptive - the cutting sequence is continually adapting for a particular percentage cut. (Typical Setting) · Constant - the cutting sequence is fixed for a particular percentage cut. End Cut (Advanced Mode Feature) Specifies the percentage cut at the end of the control range. A typical End Cut value would be 90%. Start Cut (TP 100%) (Advanced Mode Feature) Specifies the percentage cut at the start of the control range with 100% throttle. A typical Start Cut (TP 100%) would be 60%. Start Cut (TP Low) (Advanced Mode Feature) Specifies the percentage cut at the start of the control range with TP Low throttle. A typical Start Cut (TP Low) would be 30%. Note: If Start Cut (TP Low) is set above Start Cut (TP 100%), only Start Cut (TP 100%) will be used. TP Low (Advanced Mode Feature) Specifies throttle position at where Start Cut (TP Low) applies. A Typical TP Low would be 15%. Note: If TP Low is set to 0, throttle position will not influence the start cut. Only the Start Cut(TP 100%) will be used. Exit Decay Rate (Advanced Mode Feature) Specifies the rate at which the percentage cut is reduced after exiting the limit. This is measured in % cut reduced per 20ms. A typical Exit Decay Rate would be 1.

Sorry we can't help you with that one Shreyas... Anyone?