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Everything posted by Steve1436215419

  1. No, nothing special about them as they are hooked up to teh same place in the. You can hook up you DVM and meassure the resistance betweent the pins (shield gnd and sensor gnd) on the ecu if you want for peace of mind.
  2. Its where you are supposed to gound the shield of shielded cables. Shielded cables should be used for triggerwires for example. Things you want to shield against noise. However the shield gnd and the sensor gnd inputs are connected to the same spot internaly in the ecu so it doesnt really matter witch one you use.
  3. He is probably refeering to the sensor calibrationtables Dave. The ones he got only 6 for. Not the 20. Although 20 is also on the shy side if you get creative with a 6 or 8 cyl engine going individual tables on everything.. However Giles. Your prayers might be heard pretty soon
  4. What you do Gustaf is to open up the ECU and disconnect the wires at the board connector. You will see what i meen once you got it open.
  5. Here it is better expalined what Dave talks about. http://www.linkecu.com/support/documentation/technical-notes/preventing-auxiliary-channel-backfeeding.pdf Make sure no relay that is connected to the ecu has a constant 12v supply.
  6. Example of the sollution to your problem can be found here. Â http://blog.rossperformanceparts.com/category/crank-cam-trigger-kits/ Â Do something like this or live with timingscatter.
  7. Press on that gray part a little to push it a little bit out of the connector. Then just pull the wires out. Really easy to do on theese ones.
  8. And of course there is the added heat that two pumps running full tilt will put into the fuel
  9. You can if you use the function 'FP speed' on one of your aux outputs ,and use the designated output to ground a relay feeding that other pump. You can span it over injector dutycycle and RPM. You CAN run both at the same time. It just depends on your system. One problem you MIGHT run into are 'regulator overrun' Thats when your pumps are pumping more fuel than your injectors use and what your regulator are able to bypass. Fuelpressure will then increase unnintencialy.
  10. Swap the disk in your CAS with one of theese http://www.aemelectronics.com/cas-disk-for-rb25det-vg-and-some-rb26-engines-50mm-od-1251 and set trigger 2Â accordingly.
  11. Enough fuel? Tried to increase coldstart numbers. How is your fuelpressure?
  12. Did you actually also CALIBRATE the timing? With a timinglight? Have you confirmed that you got spark and injector signal? If your engine can breathe and has good compression, good camtiming, spark at the right time and fuel injected at the right time it will start. Figure what it is missing
  13. Recently struggled with the exact same thing on a friends car. The triggerwires probably pick up interference from the coil/plugwires. Try to move them away from the high voltage cables and look for errors. Alternativly you can try to run a set of wires on the outside off the car from the ecu to the triggers. The RS500 setup is the correct one for the triggers you got.
  14. Hm. Weird. I picked Cosworth RS500 from the trigger menu so not much to mix up there. They are also wired in their correct position physicaly.
  15. Need some help with the same setup on a friends car. Trying to calibrate the ignition but what ever we try we can only get it to spark (the timing light) at about 90 degrees BTDC or 90* ATDC. Really strange especialy since its a distributor. Should we set the dizzy at the marks it originaly uses? What numbers usually works in the calibration setup on theese cars?
  16. Connecting them to 2 aux out`s and choosing 'boost solenoid' on both? Will there be a conflict of some sort in the ECUs brain?
  17. Not me. Although it happends all the time. Everytime i get in there to extract files it is screwed up. I activate logging with rpm, map and tps thresholds if that does anything for you
  18. Nevermind. I opened PCLink and had a look. Answer is YES i could. But i would need yet another trigger disk in the cas. Or figure outsome 'casless' option for the cam...
  19. Ok Think im gonna take my chances on a fully toothed wheel then. Just need to figure a good way to do it.. However. Hypotheticaly.. If i went with a missing tooth and cam level, would i still be able to do full sequential ign/fuel?
  20. Thanks Simon. Ross dont seem to have anything specific for the VG30 engine, but sent them an email anyways to see if it was doable. Im also in contact with ATI that is looking into making me a custom pulley.... Its gona sting though... Ok so no missing tooth is requierd. Fair enough and i see why. On a car with a reliable synk signal that is. How do the ECU go about this then? It sees a cam signal and starts to count teeth from there i guess? But on theese cars with the extremly sloppy signal from the cas. The cam synk will still be using the cas and it will still be as sloppy as before i imagine? So wont the ecu start counting at different points on every cycle and thus still make the timing scatter? If this is the case, are there not any way of making a missing tooth wheel work togetter with cam synk? Or am i just exagerating the whole problem. I know people with RB engines have relativly steady timing after a conversion.. Im just brainstorming here.
  21. I got one of these and due to very unsteady rpm signal especialy on higher rpm`s i want to find another trigger solution. Im thinking about a multitooth wheel on the crank balancer but i just need to figure the whole picture up front. Now the triggertype is set to 'Nissan 360 opto' and i guess that sets the game for both the crank AND the cam triggerpattern. If i install a multitooth disk on the crank i would select 'multitooth' in the triggersetup then set trigger 1 as reluctor. BUT what about the cam sensor? if i still wanted to use the CAS as camsync signal i suspect the deselection of 'Nissan 360 opto' willl result in a ecu that dont know what the h... is going on. As the cas triggerwheel got 6 different sized slots i mean. Am i correct so far? I`m starting to think i would need to change the CAS disk as well maybe to one like the AEM or Megasquirt makes which got only one sync hole in the disk. and set the cam trigger to 'cam pulse 1x'. On the right track here? Also... If going with an 'external' crank triggerwheel would i just get a fully theeted one or one with a missing tooth ot two? Anyone of you guys done this on a VG or maybe RB engine? any premade multitooth ring solution out there for this application? Know of anyone i should ask?
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