Matt1436215419

Finally got to the bottom of this after putting it off for so long - found a wire with a small split in the plastic insulation around it about 5" out from the ECU plug, checked which it was and sure enough it was the yellow wire going to the ECT sensor. Insulation had separated a bit and the wire itself must have been rubbing on something or just getting interference from something to effect the reading. This also fixed a stutter the engine has had for a long time, on very fine throttle (ie cruising at 50kmh) it would miss every 5 or 10 seconds or on idle it would miss and the revs would drop a couple of hundred rpm. Never bothered me enough to try and find the problem, but stoked both are fixed now and turned out to be something so simple!

Awesome, thanks Simon, thought it seemed a bit odd. Gives me a good place to start. Pretty sure I put a new ECT sensor in when I built the engine as the factory ones crap out every so often, but I'll check that out too.

Ignore the above - just managed to download all the datalog info... MAP limit is lowered due to the ECT rising, so it kicks in at 204kpa. ECT seems quite erratic once the throttle comes on. Off throttle (at any RPM) it will sit quite steady at 87º - 88º. As soon as the throttle comes on it will jump anywhere from 87º to 99º. Is this normal? I would imagine some difference would be normal but 10º seems a lot. This variance is over a 3 or 4 second period, not sustained revs or during a burnout Thanks -Matt

Ahh that makes more sense! Will fuel or ignition issues cause the MAP limit to kick in before 240kpa? It is definitely the Map limit as with PCLink running it had a very minor misfire at 14psi and the "MAP Limit Activated" window popped up. Does the map limit only ever activate when it hits 240kpa, or also as a safety feature if the ecu senses another error (ie fuel or ignition fault)?

Hi there, I'm running a 4AGE turbo with Link G3 and Link EBC solenoid. The MAP limit has started cutting in occasionally now - never used to. All I've adjusted recently was made up a stronger bracket for the actuator, as the old one was flexing and cracked. If it ever overboosted before it would reach about 18psi before cutting out. Searching the forums I found the following post - "If you are running a turbo or supercharger and were running upto 15psi boost (200kPa) you would set the limit just above that at 205kPa." ...but a search of Google is telling me 200kpa is 29 psi. May be a really stupid question, but am I missing something here? Need to find out which is correct as my boost gauge is reading 14psi (what it should be and always has been running) and MAP limit is set to 240KPA I think. The turbo is definitely not running 30+ PSI (only a t25g turbo), so is the ECU seeing a reading of 35psi or 18psi for the MAP limit to kick in at 240KPA? MAP limit is very sporadic, can kick in higher in the revs or sometimes lower around 4000rpm when boost is nowhere near 14psi (reading off my gauge), or sometimes every time I put my foot down (generally WOT) or have days like today where I drove it for an hour with the laptop hooked up and it ran perfectly the whole time. Any ideas on this?? Thanks -Matt

no not at this stage. if the actuator was faulty would it still work fine on 7psi? i do have a spare actuator i can try if its likely to be that though.

Hi there, First of all, a bit of background: Engine is a 4age 16v with t25g turbo, running factory 7psi internal wastegate, Link G3 ecu and Link Electronic Boost Control Solenoid setup with a dual boost table and an incabin DI switch to go between low/high boost (low boost = 7psi, high boost = 12psi) It has been running perfectly fine for about 8 months since it was tuned. Now on the weekend I gave it a bit of crap and started missing and felt gutless higher in the revs. Had a look at the boost gauge and it was pulling 20psi - probably higher, but thats where the gauge stops! Low boost still works perfectly fine. All vacuum lines are fine, secured properly with no leaks or holes. I can hear the Boost Control Solenoid clicking when it is switched on so wiring/connections aren't stuffed - still seems to be working. It just doesn't control the boost anymore. Is it common for these solenoids to crap out?? Is there anything else I should check? I've checked the tune/duty cycle etc incase any of the settings have changed by themselves, but its all as it was when it came off the dyno. Pretty keen to get this sorted as I've got a few meetings coming up I'd like to attend Thanks in advance. Cheers -Matt

ah so simple, should've looked harder!! thanks

Im running a Link G3 and PCLink V3.34. Is there any way to setup an LED which switches on when it reaches a particular boost level? The manual says how to wire up an LED, but what should be selected in the drop down list for Aux outputs? I can't find anything in PCLink to do with this... cheers -Matt

I'm after a Link Boost Control Solenoid. Can't get one direct from Link until the end of August so just wondering if anyone else has one they want to sell? Thanks -Matt

one more query: when wired as above, how should the triggers be setup in PC link? just want to make sure, as the manual makes a bit of a deal about being 100% accuarate with it! At the moment it is set as: Trigger Mode: Multi-tooth Sync Pulse: Cam Multi-Tooth Location: Cam Tooth Cpunt: 24 correct?

one more thing I didn't think of until now... the white sensor ground wire on the dizzy; does that get connected to the Trigger 1 sensor ground on the link? Or does it get connected to both the Trigger 1 and Trigger 2 sensor grounds? cheers

you bloody legend! thanks for that

i'm sure it'll be a better start than a 1JZ map!! email is [email protected] thanks Kelvin, much appreciated. Cheers -Matt

the wires coming off the dizzy are as follows. 1 - White 2 - Yellow 3 - Red 4 - Green pic here if you need it - http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v34/matt_lowe60/ze-dizzy-plug.jpg the wires on the loom side are different colours though, but its the ones on the dizzy plug you wanted right? I've tried searching for ecu pinouts etc but all I can find is the late model ae92, or usa version of the aw11. if it helps, its off the only dizzy-type model of the 4agze, out of the aw11 or early ae92 models. the rest have CAS. as for the base map - its just the factory one which gets loaded on from new - not an already tuned one for me to start from or anything. just the G3 i got is mapped for a 1jz from factory, can get around it myself but would be easier if someone had the factory map handy. cheers -matt