Giannis Leontiadis

i have 12v but not ground at other side from ecu but if i put the solenoid at battery (+-) is clicking ............. so something is bad at ecu can send you and fix it or at Link company?

if turn key valve not open if put only at battery is work (click) ..... how can check if aux id dead? and all aux is from same board?

i turn keys on and valve is open(click) if aux 2 is damaged ...i put the valve at another aux is damaged and that? how many aux damaged? can do with switch on/off work the solenoid? without ecu only with switch 12vand ground?

I have pipe from turbo to right position at mac valve andwith T to bottom at westgate and from left mac valve position at top of westgate ... How check it when run if the 2 cable is 12v and other go to aux at ecu if the last is ground can do one button out of ecu and press it and look if do pressure. (from aux is + or -)?

what do you mean plumbing issue? can you tell me something to do to find the problem?

from data log you see something wrong?

Yes thats right you see that at log aux2 status i put 3rd mac valve new and is same problem

the different is because try to up the duty % but not working and save the file storage the mac valve must be work at keys on ....what sound 1 click? or continue sound? i try my 2 mac valves at battery + - with (-) at pulse and work same good

hi log file is... leonoboost2.llg leolast2016.pcl

Admin can you help me?

i do that and i have max boost and boost cut maybe something doing at ecu? burn something,aux?

i change and AUX for solenoid and nothing is same thing do only spring pressure

i have problem with boost control at link g4 storm i have at spring pressure 1.4 bar and max 2.1 bar something going bad and i have only spring pressure at boost map have 30% target and dont get the max boost... i check the turbo if work .. put off the air line and do boost cut at 2.3 bar so.........?? run open loop check external,leak,air lines,mac valve,wirings,everything?

ok what i do first zero all cell at ignition table? an then go to panel of ignition timing? my iat ignition trim is off

no its same if i log again the setting its same and if open the panel the engine work different

the value at cell change if i put 10 ignition lock and -100 offset an then put 0 ignition lock -100 offfset the value chance but the engine dont work same if open the panel the engine work othewise with previous setting

i dont understand what did you say please tell me again

the voltage is 12.5 v -14v i push enter but then the advance settings lost . i set to 10 degrees push enter and go again 20 when i open the table of ignition calibrate is good when i close(enter-done) is wrong but when i have 10 degrees the engine is bad not up rpm goodÂ

And sometimes when i start the egine disconect form laptop !!

i can just start the engine but cant calibrate advance setup at 10 ignition advance whith timing light and if i push (done) the settings lost   the problem before is the spark and wiring at plugs all done now!

yes but when i replace tha safety the engine start after 2 days i will start the car but happend this .... i put 250 240 230 220 210 ..... and nothing check all wiring all grounds is good

i do this moving from -200 to 300 and nothing before burn the safety the car work at -100 offset 10 degrees ignition lock

any ideas to help me?

Yes i set with light i use siwuencial at fuel direct at ignition i use 4 channel igniter i use spark out of cylinder to look the fire and it has fire when start engine but cant hear (boom) To anyone cylinder always 300 rpm and nothing... If i put the cas at oem position look to light 60 degrees and cant do right from ecu put -30 lock ignition an the best value is 40degrees if i turn the cas i tune with light at 10 degrees to tdc is correct but not engine start . burned igniter? Burned ecu? I dont know

i have 300RPM and not trigger error.i use the test ignition,injector and its ok check all inputs are corrects and limits is not activating there are cases have the e.c.u electronic problem?