Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About Shamil1436215439

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  1. Before - http://i59.tinypic.com/fbf3p5.jpg After - http://i59.tinypic.com/124vw9s.jpg Shamil
  2. Hi David  Thought i would fill you in, well it took me a ages with quite a few hours mucking around the wrong place but it was the trigger wheel missing a tooth !!!  I was going to use a 12 tooth setup as i couldnt fine a 36 tooth wheel (and i figured the ecu can account for it) but i ended up getting my neighbour try and weld a blob back on for the missing tooth. I hope it works as only after putting everything back together did my tuner tell me that a small difference in between teeth height and it will cause a trigger error. hmm will see in morning when i start her up Didnt want to pull it back off again if it wasnt an issue as im sure one of the teeth next to the one broken is slightly shorter.  I tried your changes. Could you actually explain what this screen is setting up ? Is that a threshold ? Or a 'amplifiyer' type setup - suggested by another tuner to explain it. A larger figure will send a larger pulse through the sensor ? Or is it something else that this screen setups ?  thanks a lot Dave Shamil
  3. Also another question. I have a race on tommorrow and wondering if there is an temporary fix like using the trigger 2 as the main trigger ? Just had a look and the cam angle sensor is not as easy to get to on my car. Â thanks
  4. Hi Dave When on the dyno we unplug the lc-1 and use the wideband on there, and we have the AFR's going from 14's down to 11.8 or so on full throttle. So i think my problem is the trigger. When i start the car and start logging i can see the trigger counter increasing up to 255. Besides pulling out cleaning and putting back the only other thing is replacing the sensor ? I looked at an old log file when i was diagnosing a miss and didnt have an error count then and nothing regarding wiring of the trigger or the sensor itself has changed since then. Â thanks again. Shamil
  5. Hi Dave  First of all thank you so much for your time. I really appreciate it.  1. The AFR reading is out (I think my sensor finally gave in - LC1 2. The Trigger error counter i dont think i ever looked properly into because the tuner assured me there was no trigger issues. Wow ok so just to clarify 255. would be the max counter ? This would be reset every time you start the car ? Is there a way to manually reset this ? Also what would the main reason this would happen ? and still start etc ? Dirt ? When looking at the maps i noticed that the base timing had changed from one tune to the other but i think the overall effect was the same. Also it is setup as Level1(low) - but the cam angle sensor is setup as just level 1. Does the low mean it is grounding on each pulse ? Tune 1 - Trigger Offset 205 with Ref Timing of 0 Tune 1 - Trigger Offset 215 with Ref Timing of 10 Can i program the CAS manually just to be sure ? IF so would i do the following Trigger setup Multitooth /Missing Priority - Trig 1 (Crank) Trigger1 - Type - Reluctor filtering - Level1 (Low) position - Crank teeth - 36 missing - 2 Thanks again. Shamil
  6. And another run. On the street so just look at the end of each log for the run. Â thanks Shamil
  7. Hi Dave  The original file was too large to attach so here is another run  thanks a lot Shamil
  8. Sorry thought i added this. Excel file of that section in particular with indication of rpm dropping, boost dropping, throttle closing. Â Motor is a 2JZ GTE with vvti. Â thanks a lot for your time. Â Shamil
  9. A Little stumped on my quest to fix a misfire problem.  Car was running 'ok' (not that there were any issues) but was not huge power. Anyways i decided i need Cams 272 BC's from stock and changed the fan setup (would overheat after some solid track racing laps.) - essentially nothing with ignition. Car now misses or feels like a bad miss up top, after 5000 and on full boost only (not free revving or low gear full throttle off boost), happens at any temperature as in doesnt seem to be because some component is too hot. My setup as far as ignition is  AEM Dumb coils - all tested (sparky said one was faulty so replaced it)  Taylor 8mm leads (made up by me). - resistance on the leads (700-900 Ohms).  twin link ecu 3 channel ignitors (around 5-10000kms old however from different batch dates)  NGK R5671A-8 plugs gapped at 0.8mm AFR = around 11.8 Checked Checked that the leads fully clip in, checked for trigger errors, none changed dwell, ignition, fuel still the same. added extra earth from battery in boot earthed the ignitor casing to the head used di electric grease tried smaller plug gap and cooler heat range (R5671A-9) We changed timing electronically and didnt make any diff. Same with fuel mixtures. cleaned out CAS Things that i havent done - Wiring diagram says that I need a suppressor rather close to the coils (which unless the factory loom has - I didn't wire up) - What is this and im just earthing the supply cable ? - The new solenoid for water pump. Does it need a diode installed across it? - No heat grease behind ignitor (old model didnt come with any) - can i just use some thermal heat paste from a computer shop ? - If you look at the yellow plot (last run) each dip is a miss, big one then small one and we back off (hence it coming down). But as you can see from plots they do seem to happen at the same place each time. and this is after we have hit full boost (get 1 bar by 3700rpm) Also attached before and after tunes. Other things i changed which i dont think are relevant  New version of software  e10 fuel from 98 octane (us 91 ?octane).  vvti settings changed to bring it on boost faster (but we changed it back and still the same) etune1.pcl sttune2.pcl
  10. Simon - hmm yes backs up what i was told as well about it being 5V. Dan - Wow never thought of that, you could be right actually ! I spoke to ST Hitec as well and he reckons the same, it should be 12V but not sure. So im leaning towards a relayed setup (solid state) and a 12V setup. Mark showed me this - http://www.lextech.org/documents/1JZFanComp.pdf, so looks like its not polarity dependant. Im going to use the old aux3 output that i had for the fan setup and change its settings as the wiring is already there. Just need to make sure the 12V supply is correctly switched. Alistair - dude tell me more. What settings do you have for the pwm ? Frequency and timer and what made you choose them ?
  11. Hi Simon Thanks for the response. So the polarity of the solenoid wouldnt matter ? Since the last post i have found out that the solenoid is supposed to be a 5v signal. So was looking into something like this for the 5v signal, - http://www.mrpositive.co.nz/dc-dc-3a-5v-6v-bec-voltage-regulator-with-aux-on-off-switch/ Or can i just take a feed off the 5v from the ecu (one for tps etc). This is the same setup in some larger motors like lexus and 1uz soarer setups. thanks Shamil
  12. Actually in regards to wiring it makes sense to be to ground on one side and the other to the ecu which is changing from 5v upwards depdning on speed etc ? Do i need a relay though ? I think the solenoid is 11Ohms which i think would be 1.1A or so at max 12V.
  13. Hi guys Didnt want to start a new thread as it was the same topic pretty much. I am using a toyota hydro fan in a different car but with a G4 extreme and wondering how i am setting this up ? The two wires off the hydro fan solenoid im assuming a not polarity dependant. So one connects to the ecu and the other ? 12v switched ? Â In terms of setting i understand there will be conditions that are set but what frequency and Timer settings would you recommend for the factory solenoid ? I understand the operating range is 5v-10v ? Where is the table seen that i can setup dependant on temperature ? Â thanks in advance.
  14. Hi guys  Suddenly started having a wierd boost issue that i can seem to work out. I have an external and am bleeding boost from the top of the gate.  Car was boosting high and low boost fine (1bar and 1.35Bar) Noticed that it hesitated (think small boost cut), looked at the gauge and it was boosting 1.5 Bar. Investigated and found the hose supplying pressure to the side of the wastegate was loose, tightened it back up and checked the top hose as well. All good. Also checked the boost solenoid using pwm and it switches on and off fine. Next time i went out it was stuck in low boost, even with the high boost setting selected (ecu sees the DI correctly and switched maps) but it still stays at 1bar. I checked hoses again and also tried increasing the target in the map but still the same. Did a log and noticed that it comes up to 1 bar of boost with the setting of Stage 1 (Pre spool) and then at exactly 1 bar goes into CL - stage2 Active but doesnt reach stage 3. Stage 1 Duty is 45%, Stage 2 ON is 50 kPa, Stage 3ON is 15kPa. IS Stage 1 Duty too small ? Im assuming if it was too small it would over shoot the target ? Target in the ecu at the time is 150 (boost gauge used to read 1.35bar at normal full boost) Does this all sound correct and i should still keep hunting for a leak or some sort ? My thoughts are there is no pressure coming to the top of the wastegate for some reason which could be either because the boost solenoid is staying shut for some reason? Or if the solenoid is working properly then the pressure line is blocked ? I can hear the solenoid clicking away as i initially floor the throttle so im leaning towards a blockage in one of the lines ? Pain in the a$$ to get to underneath hence why i thought i would ask for some input before trying to work it out . Suggestions please boostissueapril2014.csv
  • Create New...