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Brad Burnett

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Brad Burnett last won the day on August 20

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  1. set the idle stop on the throttle body so at warm the idle is just below idle target with no idle valve operating.
  2. but you have 2 DI's set to ac request, DI 3 & 6. From the log, DI3 isnt doing anything. Id say turn DI3 to off and set engine fan 1 "on with AC" to off.
  3. Thats not what im saying. The warmup and crank enrichment values are percentages applied to the main fuel table. As Adam said, you will really dial these in after the main fuel table has been fully calibrated. But adjusting the injector scaling initially will get you in the ballpark. For Injector scaling, I hardly ever have them exactly set to what they are said to be. I adjust the value to get the outcome i want while keeping the fuel table within a usable range(in modelled mode the max fuel table value is 150.) If you find that you are maxing out the fuel table, you can scale both the injector size and the fuel table by the same percentage to get more resolution. When you say you have to double the "injector VE" value, are you refering to the value in the main fuel table?
  4. Thats not what im saying at all. you have some set up in the ac/fan area that needs addressing. But as far as the hiccup is concerned, a sudden voltage drop will cause similar effects.
  5. your fans kicked on right before the voltage dip. My car makes a similar hiccup if the fans kick at low rpm causing a voltage drop. Not sure why you have 2 DI's set as AC request. But they are opposing so its always trying to run the AC? Compressor clutch is always engaged, or at least thats what the log shows. Might have something to do with why its also running so cold and the fans are cycling.
  6. I see the "hiccup" at 2:25. There is a battery voltage fluctuation immediately before that. And the injector pulse width drops in that area as well.
  7. could you please attach the corresponding .pclr file?
  8. What fuel equation are you running, Traditional or Modelled? What Adam was saying was, from the base calibration, you should have only needed to adjust the Master fuel value in the fuel setup tab if in traditional mode. If youre running the modelled equation, you would adjust the fuel injector size value in the injector setup tab. Doing this would have got you running fairly close without the need to touch the values in the main fuel table. Pending how far along you are with the tuning, maybe take a step back and start from square one to reduce the amount of plugs you need to buy?
  9. Outside closed loop control range. If the rpm hangs to high it won’t try to correct.
  10. did not even think about this. but ive got money on this.
  11. Please put a modified spark plug wire between the ignition coil and spark plug and try again. Basically cut off the end that would go to the coil, strip back about an inch, fold the stripped section over and shove into coil, then electrical tape into place. Attach timing light to plug wire. This is a more accurate method of attaching a timing light. Also i believe that your retard amount may be doubled due to the multiple spark from the wasted setup.
  12. gonna need to elaborate a touch here my friend. What vehicle? What sensor? Is it a 2 or 3 wire? Example: a ton of toyota 3 wire sensors are pin 1 12v pin2 ground pin 3 signal.
  13. @Mr2@villela 1: Did you resync/verify the ignition timing after all was reassembled? 2: Did you make any adjustments for the double capacity fuel system?
  14. cool .. Was trying to get ideas for my turbo/rewire thats about to happen. The idea of a maf sensor for this very purpose was on the table. But id be concerned with maxing it out in the turbo application as im not going to be running any huge pipes.
  15. Davidv is 100% correct in this. You will primarily only see zero advance at idle and the primary reason for this lack of oil pressure to move the cam. On subaru applications, you will also see zero advance at the top end of the rpm scale as it makes the most power on stock cams. Once you go to aftermarket cams with more lift and duration, then you will find that you advance the cams to keep the power climbing with RPM. Aside: Davidv, was this a motor that only had VVT on the inlet cam? Was it a turbo motor?
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