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Brad Burnett

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Everything posted by Brad Burnett

  1. when you turn the ecu off the injector drives are going to ground.
  2. Car im working with, im going to attempt to use the ABS system in a standalone application with the G4+ xtreme talking to it over can for wheel speeds.
  3. @Adamw would it be possible to use a spare aux out to control the relay for the ABS system with a gp out that controls the relay with engine run time >= x seconds? Also could you email me the 350z doc youre talking about? burnettbrad84@gmail.com
  4. If this is a plug in unit, i would stick the stock ecu back in and see if there is any change. May be easier to diag the abs fault with the stock ecu present. Im very interested in the outcome here as im busy with a rather standalone build with the 350z abs system.
  5. Just also be sure to double check all you I/O to verify everything is in the correct place. I recommend disconnecting all your loads while making config changes.
  6. I had this conversation with a link tech guy yesterday. I have attached the 12v supply for the lsu 4.9 to the link power supply on the A connector.
  7. It will still get you in the ball park. Yes you will have to adjust some ignition parameters and change some settings for the vvt, but it will be a good starting point.
  8. there is a 2jzgte base calibration in the software. Maybe start there?
  9. didnt even think about that. But that is perfect.
  10. then test it out with normal and 2500 and see how far that gets you.
  11. go to starter control in the chassis and body tab. change starter switch mode to normal and deactivation to 4500rpm The starter button or switch should then act like a normal system where you have to hold it till it starts.
  12. the kick back is from the combustion event happening while the piston is still on the way up the bore. with the negative timing it will happen after it passes tdc so the combustion event will help push the piston down the bore.
  13. I have fought this kind of cranking issue with single and 2 cylinder motors. The compression on cranking really messes with the ecu's ability to accurately read the triggers, clearly. I have always remedied this with very low if not negative timing in the 0-250 rpm and low TP area of the ignition map. It would be nice if link could add a cranking timing setting in the main ignition settings but considering that is not there, you have to do it in the main table. As Race Jase in the other thread said, he damaged starters and Bendixes due to kick back. The low to negative timing values fixed that for me as i even sheared teeth off the flywheel as well.
  14. I have had inconsistent results with changing map sensors. Switching between oem sensors i have had odd offsets and tune has needed adjustment to compensate. I would recommend at least a double check before just calling it good when changing anything sensor related.
  15. Brad Burnett

    CAN Hub

    If you can bus wiring between the ecu and the CAN lambda unit is short, you can get away without the termination resistor.
  16. just before the throttle plate is best. usually in an intercooler pipe.
  17. Brad Burnett

    G4+ Supra 2JZ PNP

    Ive had issues with the fuel pump control on the 2j pnp units in the past. I usually just bypass the fuel pump controller and just change the ecu to standard fuel pump relay control.
  18. I think the only variance is that it might only have one CAN channel. I have one of these and have been trying to repurpose it, but every chance i get I need 2 CAN channels.
  19. its actually ignition 1 thats on A21 and A22. One is wired for the standard distributor the other is an unused pin in standard form. quoted from Multi coil up grade in the help manual in plug in installation section "The G4+ CivicLink (95) and CivicLink (98) Plug-In ECUs have been designed to be used with the factory distributed ignition system or an after market multi-coil ignition system. Four ECU ignition outputs have been connected to the main header. Ignition 1 is on the pin used for distributed ignition whereas other channels are wired to unused header pins. Terminals for the factory connector can be purchased from your nearest Link dealer. It is the installers responsibility to make sure any after market ignition system is wired properly and correctly configured in the ECU."
  20. Brad Burnett

    Fuel level

    Its usually a variable resistance sender. Should be able to use just about anything and feed it in on a spare AN input. Will need a pull up resistor between the signal and 5v reference as most are 2 wire. Then just see what it does outside the tank and create a calibration based on that. Most older units are not going to be a linear calibration so you will want to check multiple points from empty to full. Outside of that it should be relatively easy to get it on the CAN bus and on its way to the dash.
  21. @Markus just curious what software you used to make your wiring diagram?
  22. Brad Burnett

    RPM CUT Link G4+

    that is not what im saying there. Here let me spell it out for you: 1 set motor to 20deg bTDC number one 2 mark on the side of the distributor the center of the num1 cylinder pole on the cap 3 remove dizzy cap 4 rotate dizzy so the rotor button points directly center at mark you made on side of dizzy for num1 pole 5 lock down dizzy in this position and dont touch it any further 6 sync timing through the trigger calibration in the triggers tab so the motor matches the timing the ecu is asking for. If you cant figure it out from there im sorry. As both I and simon have said, you have a cross fire issue. basically when you advance the timing the rotor is pointed more towards a different pole on the dizzy cap than the one you want because your rotor phase angle is incorrect.
  23. Brad Burnett

    RPM CUT Link G4+

    explained it the other day here
  24. Brad Burnett

    RPM CUT Link G4+

    I find it funny you didnt bother to try to rectify the incorrect distributor position before doing all the extra work and spending money on COP.
  25. Brad Burnett

    RPM CUT Link G4+

    On a distributed ignition engine, it is possible to have the timing syncd with poor rotor phase angle. When that happens and you try to advance the motor too far, it is possible to have the spark try to jump to the next cylinder instead of the correct one. I always set the engine to 20ish degrees before tdc and rotate the distributor to have the center of the rotor button pointed directly at the number one pole. Then lock down distributor and sync the rest of the timing thru the computer.
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