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Brad Burnett

Dealer
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Posts posted by Brad Burnett


  1. 1 hour ago, max said:

     

    everything is dropping volt wise on cranking temp sensor map sensor 5 volt ecu voltage I will start unplugging a component at a time to see what it is

    I would disconnect all sensors then check what your 5 volt looks like

    then crank the car as you attach each one back.


  2. If the MAP reading at key on engine off is close enough (+/- 5kpa) to the baro the ecu will let you calibrate the map sensor and you "should" be fine that way.  But me personally, i would take the time to set up a custom cal table with the specific data for the sensor.


  3. the timing lock is for the trigger calibration setup.

    Have you calibrated the triggers?

    You will want the current setting of "multitooth" not the 3sge vvti setting.

    Your log has the trigger errors maxed at 255 and spikes from a nice cranking rpm to north of 7k rpm.  

    Try calibrating the triggers and see what you get.  I like to calibrate with fuel mode set to off and trigger lock at 0 degrees.


  4. 10 hours ago, Luis Lopez said:

    The ac request is like that per instructions as far I’m concerned though. If not the AC won’t work. 

    but you have 2 DI's set to ac request, DI 3 & 6.  From the log, DI3 isnt doing anything.  Id say turn DI3 to off and set engine fan 1 "on with AC" to off.  


  5. Thats not what im saying.  

    The warmup and crank enrichment values are percentages applied to the main fuel table.

    As Adam said, you will really dial these in after the main fuel table has been fully calibrated.  

    But adjusting the injector scaling initially will get you in the ballpark.  

    For Injector scaling, I hardly ever have them exactly set to what they are said to be.  I adjust the value to get the outcome i want while keeping the fuel table within a usable range(in modelled mode the max fuel table value is 150.)  If you find that you are maxing out the fuel table, you can scale both the injector size and the fuel table by the same percentage to get more resolution.

    When you say you have to double the "injector VE" value, are you refering to the value in the main fuel table?


  6. your fans kicked on right before the voltage dip.  

    My car makes a similar hiccup if the fans kick at low rpm causing a voltage drop.

    Not sure why you have 2 DI's set as AC request.  But they are opposing so its always trying to run the AC?  Compressor clutch is always engaged, or at least thats what the log shows.  Might have something to do with why its also running so cold and the fans are cycling.


  7. What fuel equation are you running, Traditional or Modelled?

    What Adam was saying was, from the base calibration, you should have only needed to adjust the Master fuel value in the fuel setup tab if in traditional mode.  If youre running the modelled equation, you would adjust the fuel injector size value in the injector setup tab.

    Doing this would have got you running fairly close without the need to touch the values in the main fuel table.

    Pending how far along you are with the tuning, maybe take a step back and start from square one to reduce the amount of plugs you need to buy? 


  8. 2 hours ago, Adamw said:

    Im no subaru guy, but from memory a 99 wrx would have had a dumb coil with separate ignitor originally, you have now changed to coils with ignitiors built in.  Did you remove/bypass the factory ignitor?

    did not even think about this.  but ive got money on this.


  9. Please put a modified spark plug wire between the ignition coil and spark plug and try again. 

    Basically cut off the end that would go to the coil, strip back about an inch, fold the stripped section over and shove into coil, then electrical tape into place.  Attach timing light to plug wire.

    This is a more accurate method of attaching a timing light.

     

    Also i believe that your retard amount may be doubled due to the multiple spark from the wasted setup.  

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