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Brad Burnett

Dealer
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Posts posted by Brad Burnett


  1. 8 hours ago, cj said:

    Bit of a hack job, but with a start switch config, and no other use for secondary ignition table, you can set up dual ignition table, and set the table 2 trigger to be DI2 (your start button). Then set ign table 2 to be a single value -2*. This means as long as you keep the start button pressed, its going to fire at -2 degrees regardless of what RPM it thinks it is seeing. It wont stop the starter kicking on and off, but it will stop it getting kickback as described by Brad if it sees 3k rpm because of trigger errors and jumps up to a "real" load point on the ign1 table.

    Speeding up the rotation speed during cranking process like this (by firing on the down stroke) may help prevent the trigger issues that cause the RPM spikes in the first place too.

    didnt even think about that.  But that is perfect.


  2. go to starter control in the chassis and body tab.

    change starter switch mode to normal and deactivation to 4500rpm

    The starter button or switch should then act like a normal system where you have to hold it till it starts.


  3. the kick back is from the combustion event happening while the piston is still on the way up the bore.  with the negative timing it will happen after it passes tdc so the combustion event will help push the piston down the bore.


  4. I have fought this kind of cranking issue with single and 2 cylinder motors.  The compression on cranking really messes with the ecu's ability to accurately read the triggers, clearly.  I have always remedied this with very low if not negative timing in the 0-250 rpm and low TP area of the ignition map.  It would be nice if link could add a cranking timing setting in the main ignition settings but considering that is not there, you have to do it in the main table.  As Race Jase in the other thread said, he damaged starters and Bendixes due to kick back.  The low to negative timing values fixed that for me as i even sheared teeth off the flywheel as well.


  5. I have had inconsistent results with changing map sensors.  Switching between oem sensors i have had odd offsets and tune has needed adjustment to compensate.  I would recommend at least a double check before just calling it good when changing anything sensor related.


  6. Ive had issues with the fuel pump control on the 2j pnp units in the past.  I usually just bypass the fuel pump controller and just change the ecu to standard fuel pump relay control.


  7. its actually ignition 1 thats on A21 and A22.  One is wired for the standard distributor the other is an unused pin in standard form.

    quoted from Multi coil up grade in the help manual in plug in installation section

    "The G4+ CivicLink (95) and CivicLink (98) Plug-In ECUs have been designed to be used with the factory distributed ignition system or an after market multi-coil ignition system.  Four ECU ignition outputs have been connected to the main header.  Ignition 1 is on the pin used for distributed ignition whereas other channels are wired to unused header pins.  Terminals for the factory connector can be purchased from your nearest Link dealer.  It is the installers responsibility to make sure any after market ignition system is wired properly and correctly configured in the ECU."


  8. Its usually a variable resistance sender.  Should be able to use just about anything and feed it in on a spare AN input.  Will need a pull up resistor between the signal and 5v reference as most are 2 wire.

    Then just see what it does outside the tank and create a calibration based on that.  Most older units are not going to be a linear calibration so you will want to check multiple points from empty to full.

    Outside of that it should be relatively easy to get it on the CAN bus and on its way to the dash.

     


  9. that is not what im saying there.  Here let me spell it out for you:

    1 set motor to 20deg bTDC number one

    2 mark on the side of the distributor the center of the num1 cylinder pole on the cap

    3 remove dizzy cap

    4 rotate dizzy so the rotor button points directly center at mark you made on side of dizzy for num1 pole

    5 lock down dizzy in this position and dont touch it any further

    6 sync timing through the trigger calibration in the triggers tab so the motor matches the timing the ecu is asking for.

     

    If you cant figure it out from there im sorry.

    As both I and simon have said, you have a cross fire issue.  basically when you advance the timing the rotor is pointed more towards a different pole on the dizzy cap than the one you want because your rotor phase angle is incorrect.


  10. On 7/22/2019 at 1:50 PM, Brad Burnett said:

    On a distributed ignition engine, it is possible to have the timing syncd with poor rotor phase angle.  When that happens and you try to advance the motor too far, it is possible to have the spark try to jump to the next cylinder instead of the correct one.

    I always set the engine to 20ish degrees before tdc and rotate the distributor to have the center of the rotor button pointed directly at the number one pole.  Then lock down distributor and sync the rest of the timing thru the computer.

    explained it the other day here


  11. On a distributed ignition engine, it is possible to have the timing syncd with poor rotor phase angle.  When that happens and you try to advance the motor too far, it is possible to have the spark try to jump to the next cylinder instead of the correct one.

    I always set the engine to 20ish degrees before tdc and rotate the distributor to have the center of the rotor button pointed directly at the number one pole.  Then lock down distributor and sync the rest of the timing thru the computer.


  12. yes sir.  Just wire in a pressure transducer to a spare analogue input and configure as fuel pressure sensor.  

    If you do this while using modelled fuel equation, and configure the equation with pressure sensor, the ecu will automatically adjust injector pulse width for fluctuations in differential fuel pressure.


  13. Ditch the maf and O2 and you can free up 2 more.  For O2 get a unit that will output to CAN like the link canlambda or aem x series.

    Turbo speed would be on a digital input not analogue.

    EGT i would run through can as well.

    The brochure is listing the possible inputs depending on model.  The inputs on pnp units vary from model to model.  And the VR4 unit is 6 ANs and 3 temps


  14. I would copy the DBW settings out of the TTlink base calibration to start.  You could then use the auto calibrate function in the ecu for APS and TPS set up and go from there.

    As far as the Antilag set up, there is a pretty good set up procedure in the help file.


  15. 34 minutes ago, Simon said:

    @Brad Burnett Cam level is only suitable for a multi tooth missing set up.

    Has the CAM signal been modified to a single tooth?

    Have you done a trigger calibration to confirm the timing with a timing light? 

     

    I didnt know this, but from his trigger scope the cam trigger is still a level disc.

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