Brad Burnett

Can you do us a favor and attach a calibration file here? Everyone is just making guesses with out actually looking at the cal file. Could be something quite simple as a stupid gear cut that is not configured correctly.

Link has a limited lifetime warranty these days, but im pretty sure that they charge a fee for modification to the unit for the likes of DBW adaption. Best bet would be to contact the service/sales guys at Link directly.

combination of throttle stop and idle ignition timing will be the easiest to implement. you could also you a 2 wire pwm idle valve if you have a vacuum block attached to all inlet runners. most complicated implementation would be convert the itbs to dbw and run closed loop idle via dbw(this is the route i went.)

activate the advanced features in the limit settings use a very short control range

Hp is right around what i was making when i had access to a dyno dynamics dyno. As for the stalling, what are you using for idle control?

In the past ive used a rather long usb extension cable with a repeater with no issues.

need more D. Ive had hell with some LS based throttle bodies. The increase in derivative gain will help dampen the oscillations.

Has the ecu been appropriately tuned?

@Khaled Abdurhman What vehicle do you have? Some vehicles tps is only an idle switch and wot switch, for example early model MX5 miatas.

But when you input the serial number into the link code generating page it asks you to leave off preceding zeros

what fuel mode are you currently running it in? What is the injector scalar or master fuel value at?

How high are you reving the engine? If only going to 7-7500 rpms, then you should be fine. But if your winding it out to 8-9k then you may have some concern. You typically want roughly 10psi for every 1000 rpm. Ive built many subaru engines. Most would be around .001 on the mains and .0015-.0018 on the rods. Did you reuse the oil pump from the first motor? Did you inspect the internals of the oil pump?

Why not just start your tuning with the new large injectors and not have to worry about the change once youre ready for the power tuning?

Any ecu can delete the IACV without going drive by wire. You simply set the idle speed with an idle throttle stop so that zero throttle is you set idle. You can do this with the cable but I would recommend adjusting the closed stop on the throttle body(ies).

will need to verify your voltage values in the analogue tab of the runtime values page. Then verify that they are registering as cruise functions in the ethrottle tab of runtime values page.

The way the logic works in the software is just like any modern car. There is an on/off button, set/decel button, resume/accel button, cancel button, and brake switch. It works very well and i have implemented this into several cars using the AN volt and DI method, really just depends what inputs you have available.

when you turn the ecu off the injector drives are going to ground.

Car im working with, im going to attempt to use the ABS system in a standalone application with the G4+ xtreme talking to it over can for wheel speeds.

@Adamw would it be possible to use a spare aux out to control the relay for the ABS system with a gp out that controls the relay with engine run time >= x seconds? Also could you email me the 350z doc youre talking about? [email protected]

If this is a plug in unit, i would stick the stock ecu back in and see if there is any change. May be easier to diag the abs fault with the stock ecu present. Im very interested in the outcome here as im busy with a rather standalone build with the 350z abs system.

Just also be sure to double check all you I/O to verify everything is in the correct place. I recommend disconnecting all your loads while making config changes.

I had this conversation with a link tech guy yesterday. I have attached the 12v supply for the lsu 4.9 to the link power supply on the A connector.

It will still get you in the ball park. Yes you will have to adjust some ignition parameters and change some settings for the vvt, but it will be a good starting point.

there is a 2jzgte base calibration in the software. Maybe start there?

I have had inconsistent results with changing map sensors. Switching between oem sensors i have had odd offsets and tune has needed adjustment to compensate. I would recommend at least a double check before just calling it good when changing anything sensor related.