Brad Burnett

you can set both driven and non driven to the same wheel speed sensor.

clamps are fine. It may be that your have speed lock out set to driven wheel speed, but driven wheel speed is not configd in speed sources.

You will get better help here if you were to post a calibration file with the question. But I just recently ran into a similar predicament. Check that your max and min clamps on the idle tab are set to reasonable values. The base cal in the atom I installed this past week had the max clamp at 12ish and it wouldn't operate.

I asked this same question in the other PCLink release thread.

Is this just a new PCLink version or is it a new firmware update as well? If it is the firmware update, does it include the fix for closed loop ethrottle idle control? Didn't see it in the latest firmware release notes.

Did a G13b in my boss' samurai. Used the Atom ecu as well. Trigger setting is set to Baleno. Its also very similar to a Subaru ver 7-9. It works too.

its in the fuel injector setup tab.

Is it possible that maybe some solenoid on one of the aux channels is powered by a relay that is not ign. sw powered? Maybe backfeeding.

Will need to adjust the master fuel setting or the injector scale setting(if modelled eq) by a percentage to enrichen the mixture then adjust the entire fuel table in the opposite direction in order to bring the values down.

You also have a shit ton of crank and post start `enrichment at lower temps.

yes, it is basically an overlay table

If you use the multi fuel modelled equation with dual fuel tables set to interpolate for the flex operation, you could then use the 4d table as the meth correction and have the activation set to what ever aux out you have running the meth pump. There is also a 5th dimensional table that you can activate if needed.

So based on how you have described this, the hot starting is just as you like?

Adam I thought about that as well. I did also ponder on the last Ecutek car I tuned. They have a blip strategy that watches the clutch and brake switch and the order that they are pressed which should be able to transfer over with some imagination. The way they do it is if the rpm is past a set point and you are on the brake and then press the clutch to down shift, it will blip a specified amount for a specified time frame. Should be able to make that work with the use of some virtual auxs.

trigger offset may vary depending on which cam sensor you are using. But my 1uz with COP had a trigger offset of -5. Pretty sure I was using the left hand sensor.

Yes a link unit will do this. Im using a E46 m3 throttle actuator to control the Itbs on one of my own projects.

injector is just a solenoid. The ecu will ground one terminal and the other terminal will receive +12v power from the injection relay. This information is also in the help file.

Should be alright. May even add a touch of dwell at lower rpms. May have to play with it on the dyno to see if more or less dwell will help with power and aid in the avoidance of misfire.

1zz coils don't like dwell much more than 1.8-2ms. But that wont keep it from starting. I remember seeing a thread in this forum not to long ago of someone with some "plug and play" ignition harness that was nowhere near what it needed to be. Also CJ and Ducie are correct and you will need to use Ign drives 1-2-3-4.

Looks like you already have all the information needed. Not sure what more you are after?

arming thresholds will normally increase with rpm. There is an example for the jz in the help file under "engine specific information" trigger offset being off by 1 degree will not play havoc. It will change based on engine configuration such as wether or not the head/block has been decked, timing belt stretch, etc. This value is basically just to get the engine ignition timing to match the ecu. As for the way the limiter sounds, if you turn on advanced mode in the limiter settings you can change the amount of cut percentage and the offset from the soft to hard limit to change the sounds to suit your liking.

You can download the PCLink software. The help file in the software has a fantastic section dedicated to wiring and will answer all the questions you have listed here.

That would work just fine there.

Short answer.... NO. I would recommend something along the lines of this https://www.aemelectronics.com/?q=products/sensors-connectors-accessories/map-pressure-sensors/stainless-steel-psig-sensors

I would try a different map sensor. May also want to see if there are any other trouble codes in the ecu.