Brad Burnett
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Posts posted by Brad Burnett
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There is a base cal for the that in the software file titled "Base Maps"
Name of the file is Nissan S14-S15 G4+ Xtreme plugin
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Sounds as if the coil circuit has a constant +12v feed and not a switched feed.
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TT link g4+
in G4+
For tuning purposes, I would highly recommend adding a wideband controller such as the link Can Lambda unit.
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4 hours ago, MagicMike said:
How are you going to balance it? 50/50 worries me
I wouldn't so much worry about balance on the trigger disc. The weight of those things is nothing.
To me it just seems like a waste of time to have one custom made when there are companies out there making the 24-1 and 12-1 disc already.
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if you already have the crank trigger wheel, just get the aem 24-1 trigger disc for the CAS and only use trig 2 on the CAS with 1x selection.
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I recently completed a car with the ID2000s on a 2004 sti with the link plug in unit.
Zero issues with idle on 93oct.
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@Adamw , not trying to second guess you or anything here, but I have had heaps of cars where I have to "Iron out" the arming thresholds to fix a "misfire" situation.
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That is correct.
Basically the arming threshold table will be set to about 2/3s of the values that you get in the scope trace.
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What you are going to need to do is run a scope trace at all rpm points in the trigger threshold table and set that table correctly.
I have fought with arming thresholds a lot in the past.
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As @Adamw mentioned, I have used the Subaru STi pedal a handful of times in custom applications. Primary reason is cost and availability. You can typically find them for about $25-75 USD on ebay. I prefer to use the older unit with the larger connector as the connector body is easier to get from the likes of www.bmotorsports.com.
Also as @AbbeyMS has said, the 350z unit is another option. They are very similar to the Subaru unit. I believe even use the same connector.
Pretty much any electronic pedal will work as there is not much fancy going on there other than 2 position sensors. The actual throttle body is where the more difficult control comes from as they will all have different PID values from make to make.
For the pedal I would go with whatever you can get your hands on. For the throttle, I would pick something off the list that Adamw suggested. If you are looking for larger I would look into a GM LS2/3 throttle as they are just about 100mm.
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you are going to need to be connected to a powered up ecu in order to see appropriate data.
Will need to see a green online box in the top right
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Fuel types?
in G4+
You could do dual mapping with a switch to activate for the 93 and 100.
Then a second switch to activate an ignition trim to go from 93 to 91.
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Power for the dash doesn't come from the ecu.
Open pclink software and push the f12 key to view the runtime values.
Go to the CAN page in the run time values and verify that the Can bus has not faulted out. It will display all the errors on that page.
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What you are after is either an IS300 or GDB Subaru cruise control stalk.
Trust me. That's what you want.
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I have a map from a LQ9 6.0L.
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Boost vs TP
in G4+
You can set up your target boost table with rpm on the x axis and throttle position on the y axis.
Then your wastegate duty table can be set with rpm on the x axis and target boost on the y axis.
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VW and Audi 1.8 T is the same. Go look at the link base cal for the Audi TT plugin
This car has the exact same engine as the Audi TT. Given the previous response I will follow his instructions to see if I can get the idle smoother. I may also adjust the cam to switch at say 1500rpm to ensure this doesn't happen at idle, unless that will cause other sorts of problems?
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Boost Issue
in G4+
the values in you gear based trim are not out of this world
you have to keep in mind that this a percentage applied to the wg duty table, not 32% added.
example:
With this set to 10%, and the base duty cycle is currently 50%, the effective base duty cycle will be 55% (50 + 50 * 10%).
Also my concern is that the car last saw a dyno a year ago according to your original post. A lot can change in a year on a high horsepower car.
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Based on this thread and your thread about boost control issues, I would assume that you need to take the car back to the tuner.
From my quick search, this should basically be the same motor as the audi tt with the 20v 1.8T motor. If that is the case, then this is a simple on/off cam control.
And if the idle is fluctuating from 800-1300rpm then yes the cam will switch back and forth continuously. The mapper has the cam switch whenever the rpm is between 1200 and 5200 rpm.
''Laggy'' software
in G4+
Posted
The problems that Grant and Mapper are describing, I have had since they rolled out G4+. G4 software is fine and connects and communicates immediately, where as the G4+ software has always made me wait till the comms frequency is up to speed. I have mentioned it to Adam and Simon many times. I have tried many different pcs and different operating systems with the same results.