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Stevieturbo last won the day on May 1

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About Stevieturbo

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  1. As per the instructions, yes.
  2. Coil choice will depend what is easiest fitted. VAG are popular, as are R35 GTR, as are Honda K/Denso. For coils, I would always say buy OEM, not any aftermarket, whether they claim to be OEM replacements or not. I've never actually used a separate ignition amp for about 15 years....so cant really think of one to use lol. But plenty of Bosch or similar, or OEM stuff out there. Or no doubt Link will sell one. But a pencil type coil with internal amp, or an LS style coil for coil near plug would be the preferred option Not really an on engine test...but a test for some coils, and a visual on shapes and sizes.
  3. I'd be more interested to know how you can possibly manage that from such a height....twice ?
  4. Well as you seem to be guessing rather than actually calibrating correctly...yes you should have someone competent re-tune things, or at least check the map sensor scaling is correct compared to the old one. And sadly, most of the GM style sensors these days are Chinese. For such a critical engine sensor.....not a chance would I use one.
  5. If the BMW coils are inductive....( usually 2 or 3 wires ) then yes you would need to run external amplifiers. Although some internally amplified coils are also 3 wires...so dont take that as meaning anything. From a simplicity point of view, I do prefer modern coils with amps built in and they are plentiful these days. Although as you'd be getting a loom made ? It wouldnt be too hard to add a pair of ign amps into the system for the 8 coils. If you have only one throttle actuator then that would be fine, I thought most ITB BMW's had an actuator for each bank. I tried the Dash2 with my old DTA via CAN many years ago.....and gave up. It's a pain in the hole trying to configure their CAN adaptor as an interface between the two devices and RT were of little help. I sold both instead, luckily I had bought the Dash second hand so didnt lose too much on it. IMO if it can work off serial, that should be easier as they should be able to configure the Dash already, so it's only the ecu talking to the dash...not the ecu talking to an interface and then talking to the dash. And there would be no guarantee they use similar sensors or sensor scalings. But really...that isnt any big issue. You're largely only talking water temp and air temp anyway. I wouldnt be too concerned about that. As for the cams, if you can follow instructions and have the correct tools, it shouldnt be too difficult yourself. Can't think of anyone I'd leave it to though
  6. first concern would be the dual DBW units on the M5, that ecu seems to have only a single H Bridge ? Dash2 normally runs serial, so you'd likely need their CAN adapter. RT should be able to advise, or you might be able to run it via serial which would save any hassle and extra boxes. Either way, it's just a power supply and 2 wires. ( Can Hi/Lo or for RS232 Tx and Rx and a ground, so 3 lol ) I wouldnt see the coilpacks being a problem, nor the sensors. Although it may be more convenient to change temperature sensors if you cannot find calibrations or sort calibrations for the existing ones. VVT could be a pain....but as you've mentioned doing away with that...then it shouldnt be difficult to get it running without it.
  7. Depends under what circumstances. But there would be no need for anything larger than OEM wiring....and any current ability would only apply to the motor wiring itself....not to mention the actual abilities of the H-Bridge running it. If they ever seen more than 10-15A...there would be a major problem.
  8. 12v power, power ground, and ecu trigger/ground to each coil. Not overly complicated ? If you have a loom...whatever an "xs loom" is, even 2 of them, surely the wiring is done ?
  9. I never stated to try and delay the main rev limiter. I said you can delay the onset of the generic gp rev limits.
  10. Is it not in the user manual ?
  11. You can set a time delay before it activates. It would seem sensible in the engine protection section....to actually have basic engine protection features though.
  12. Given the severity of plug damage, I would be very surprised if the engine is not already hurt. Find a competent tuner before they cost you a fortune.
  13. If a box is gona break...it's gona break. Dont be under any illusions it's as simple as stay below a certain torque and it will live forever.
  14. If you're trying to reduce torque...why would you be running 28psi in the first place ? Use common sense. Use less boost.
  15. Stevieturbo

    Trigger1 err

    Sensor ground should only run from sensors to the sensor ground on the ecu...as the name kinda implies, and as the instructions tell you.
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