Jump to content

Stevieturbo

Members
  • Content Count

    253
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

Stevieturbo last won the day on November 8 2019

Stevieturbo had the most liked content!

About Stevieturbo

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Or else just stick a 36-1 onto the crank pulley and use it instead ?
  2. As most aftermarket ecu's only look at the falling edge, which gives no position reference...I doubt it. Although if they could set the ecu to read the rising edge which does have a variety of tooth gaps, it could be possible. Why not just add/use the cam trigger ?
  3. Take it's counterpart and install it in a small enclosure. OR just straighten the rear pins and seal it all up after soldering/insulating etc. Not the prettiest, but perfectly functional if done well. Worth noting though that the rear side PCB pins, are coated with something so it's only the ends are easily soldered to.
  4. Adapt and overcome. Or just run without an air bypass and just use timing for idle control. Or just run an 01+ intake, which gives you better top feed injectors, and a simple ISCV.
  5. If it has been dyno'd, how could it not possibly be driven ? Some detail, history etc would help. Has it ever ran correctly ?
  6. Why not just keep it simple and use/retain the MY97/98 ISCV the ecu was intended for anyway ?
  7. If you have a plug play ecu, it makes the most sense to retain the wiring loom that is supposed to be on that vehicle unless there is an extremely good reason to change it. And changing only part of it is asking for trouble. If changing coils etc...it would be easier and safer just to modify those aspects of the wiring that only need changed to accommodate those coils. Why are you changing the intake and/or that wiring ? It wont make any difference from a performance point of view.
  8. 4 tooth is crap. Functional, but crap. That said....there's a Mk1 Escort drag car in Malta with a YB that runs 7.3 at 187mph and it is using a 4 tooth wheel. No idea what ecu though. So primitive can work ! IMO though, the likes of a 36-1 or 36-2 should be considered a basic standard for any build....because it's just well proven all over the world.
  9. What exactly happened that caused the issue in the first place ? Can you plug in a standard ecu, just to prove the car side of things is now healthy again ?
  10. Voltage from the crank and cam triggers will of course vary as an ac sine wave during normal operation. You need a scope trace to verify integrity of any signals. There is no other way to verify them.
  11. There ya go then, all sorted lol.
  12. If the files could be saved as a .csv, or exported as such then they could be used with other better/more universal software out there.
  13. Conventional possibly a little higher ? if anything at all. Would any of the other pressure sensor options have highlighted this quicker, rather than having to do each cylinder test ? ie, the transducer in the intake ? or exhaust ?
  14. Yes, not that uncommon either as the covers tend to leak and need new seals. But totally doable. Probably not that easy to measure the clearances though, but should be able to get some feeler blades in ok to get a good idea of what's going on. I cant comment as to whether the live compression tests would show poor sealing....they maybe would...they probably should. But I know on cars I've seen this in the past, even a leakdown test didnt show anything, but the clearances were too tight, almost nothing in some cases. But I've never had the benefits of a scope/in cylinder to try on those faulty cars. But the symptoms strangely were usually idle misfires, but strangely seemed to affect running less at higher rpm's
×
×
  • Create New...