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Stevieturbo

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Stevieturbo last won the day on August 30

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  1. Seems a huge number of threads with problems with these ? Even Innovate weren't this difficult....
  2. you do have a mismatch of wheels there. 6 tooth crank usually ran a 3, 1, 2, 1 pattern on the camwheel. And as Neil says, the 36-2-2 crankwheel from 01+ typically had 2 teeth on the camwheel. I can only guess someone has modified that camwheel in your photo for a single tooth. No idea if the Link can run a custom trigger setup to allow you to make use of this config without changing pulleys though.
  3. SD linked to this ( first of three though ) a few days ago. Free and nearly an hour long. I downloaded it to watch, although havent got around to it yet. Of course biggest aspect of all this. Is having the correct type of transducer and more importantly software to go with it. Another I linked to before which was very interesting. This guy sells a scope setup from Ukraine and has done a lot of videos. With some very interesting software to go along with them. Obviously not applicable to all engines, but interesting all the same. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZfEJfHc8DpV6G23jClwruA/videos eg
  4. How are you actually measuring the sec waveform ? With a lead or something stuffed into the coil ? Or via some other adapter ? IMO if the coils are known good, plugs are known good, and wiring etc is known good...I think this area is of little concern. OEM coils are very powerful and reliable. So unless you're doing something strange in terms of dwell times or other....the problem is elsewhere. I guess a current clamp on the supply to all 4 coils might show any discrepancy between them ? Probably a waste of time though I've seen a lot of standard type cars with valve sealing issues due to valve/seat erosion, more so earlier 2000 model cars, say 2001-2006 though. So saying valve lash is "good".....actual numbers would matter more than "good". I did read years ago, that any issues like this, first port of call should be injectors. I can see their reasoning behind the statement, although in reality it isnt the first port of call. But I dont think you've mentioned what you're using, or how they're setup or configured within the ecu ?
  5. Ideally it would be a 300psi absolute sensor, so it can also read vacuum. Cant comment on the ignition waveform though, just not something I've had enough experience with. Some great videos on youtube from Scannerdanner though, and no doubt assistance via Pico forum etc.
  6. Really..if an engine start start within 2-3 seconds, continually cranking is not a solution. You need to establish why it is not starting....and all goes back to basics. air, fuel, spark, all at correct time and quantities. Hot starting almost any engine should be easy. Cold engines yes may take a little fettling, but hot starts should be easy. If a little fuel pump is draining the battery, well...it isnt, something else must be.. get the engine to start correctly first, before adding more complications into the mix.
  7. I want a Pico ! But yes, I just rigged up the pressure sensor to use the ecu to record a cranking and running compression test....because why not ? lol I have an ecu that can....and I do not have a Pico that can. Pico would be a lot more useful, although even with your 11% discrepancy bank to bank, I dont honestly think that would be enough to start pointing to a problem. What plugs, what gaps ? What were your valve clearances ? A little larger is usually a good thing, OEM specs are pretty tight. And was valve sealing checked prior to rebuilding ? You say Cosworth heads...so does that mean they were supplied complete and ready to go, or where multiple parties involved in putting them together ?
  8. As the gearbox VSS is basically a direct link to the driveshaft/propshaft, there isnt really any technical reason why that could not be used as a driven speed reference for traction control which would negate a need for two driven wheel speed sensors. Either or though, whichever is handiest.
  9. The GM sensor is a VR sensor, both wires should go to whatever device is reading as a sensor ground and signal. Not chassis ground as you are suggesting.. As to whether the Link can accept a VR signal, they would need to confirm.
  10. This is a screenshot from a datalog on my Syvecs. Have removed most info from it for clarity, but upper graph is crank/cam ( 36-1 and std LS 1x cam ) and lower cyl pressure in cylinder 1 from initial cranking to actually running/idling. Upper graph also shows battery voltage. Most are logged at 1000Hz for the purposes of the test. I wouldnt say the pressure sensor is calibrated 100% correctly but it should be pretty close. I'm sure it was a 300psi absolute sensor. Although I had bought 300 and 500psi sensors so cant remember which I used here. Not that it should matter. I just found that assuming a calibration based on 0.5 to 4.5v for the range it should have been...just seemed to give wrong numbers. And my Mityvac only went to 60psi positive. I have a small reg for my airline to go higher, but damned if I could find it when I did this. Oddly the first couple of bumps read very high pressure, compared to once it actually gets moving. As this was a start and run test, obviously it was not done with a fully open throttle as a normal compression test with a non running engine would be I presume you've tried the obvious of new plugs ? Coil problems are rare, but some do fail. Can you swap the coils ? Common cause of misfires on standard engines is valve/seat recession...but if you're using new heads that have been built/shimmed correctly etc...that should not be an issue.
  11. If you have a scope, you should be able to do a running compression test quite easily. I've done it before using a cheap 300psi absolute pressure sensor off ebay. At higher rpm's there is a little lag with the sensor, but for the purposes of this test it is viable. I just bought a cheap compression tester and adapted the sensor to the hose so it can be used as normal. A little awkward in a Subaru maybe, but still very doable. So this new engine itself....has never actually ran correctly ? What does a 4 gas analyser tell you ? Is there evidence of misfires ?
  12. 255 is a small pump, it does not draw a lot of current. And how does it affect tuning/starting unless you are not running an alternator or the system is not charging ? Or is the battery in poor condition ?
  13. Try giving us some information on how you have it wired and the ecu configured. Will it even work for you as a simple relay, with no PWM ?
  14. As per the instructions, yes.
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