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Stevieturbo last won the day on February 15

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About Stevieturbo

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  1. It's up to you to decide based on whatever it is you're trying to achieve, and what you want each ecu to do, or how active/functional you need the OEM ecu to remain. In general, 2 wire sensors/triggers cannot be shared 3 wire powered sensors can usually share a signal.
  2. The little Hella units are not rated for any sensible current in a steady load. Peak, surges yes they can do higher, but not continuous duty and I think they quote even less when PWM'ing. And a fuel pump is very much continuous duty. That 525 will easily be pulling 15A or near at base pressures, nevermind with boost. That's already exceeding what the Hella can cope with For water injection, I think my pump only pulls around 5A, so no big deal there, the Hella works great for that....although I will also add it seemed to work best at only 50Hz. At higher frequencies, the pump really struggled. With the Crydoms and my 450's I used this diode across the pump wiring. Probably overkill, but figured may as well go big. Flyback current should never really be high. https://uk.farnell.com/vishay/vft4045bp-m3-4w/diode-schottky-45v-40a-ito-220ac/dp/2115198?CMP=i-ddd7-00001003 Again, I tested this at various frequencies and watched fuel pressure to see if it changed and at various duties, and ended up leaving mine at 200Hz. The likes of a 100A DC Crydom states max is 650Hz. Some lower current versions claim to allow higher frequencies. As for the resistor across the input terminals...really no idea what it is for. I have used it with and without and both seemed to work fine ( with Syvecs ). But I left it in there, as presumably they wanted it there for a reason and it can do no harm being there anyway.
  3. Depends on vehicle, which sensors/actuators, wiring, and what you're trying to achieve.
  4. The Crydom DC-series SSR's work fine, I've been running my 450's off one all last year with no problems. But yes you do need a flyback diode at the pumps. ( 2x450's off one 60A ) I've a 3rd in tank pump if need be and a 100A relay sitting if and when I do need to use it And in no way whatsoever is the little Hella relay suitable for such a purpose, even from the standpoint of coping with the current of such a pump, nevermind trying to pwm it too. Haltech offer this drawing and is how I use mine with Syvecs. Although a high frequency would probably be better with a proper controller, it does seem SSR's dont really enjoy being pushed in this way. I found mine happy around 200Hz. https://www.haltech.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/SSR_Power_SW_Web.pdf I do use one of the Hella SSR relays for my water injection though.
  5. Be easier just to use your current intake manifold and parts. And the stepper motor is not a positive and negative. But yes you will need to source a positive and negative, and configure a PWM output wire from the ecu to the 3 wire if you must change to it.
  6. As you can easily move or rotate the dizzy....you're pretty flexible as to where the tooth will be at any time anyway.
  7. Where it should be, is open to interpretation and a single screenshot only tells a small picture. But that screenshot does show some odd stuff.
  8. Why do you want to change it in the first place ? ( either will work ) And why on earth are you scaling things to 400kpa ! Find a competent tuner and get it done right. Although at least the idle area has become a bit more sensible.
  9. Assuming he has it plumbed "normally".
  10. The VW M10 to M8 stud I talked about the first time ! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BEETLE-CABRIO-Stud-M8-exhaust-stud-repair-oversize-M8-M10-x-38mm-N0144832/361427269003?hash=item5426be758b:g:FqYAAOSwKJFaqBW8
  11. The only answer is it may do. How much difference it will make will depend if the new setup is better or worse, and how the car was tuned in the first place.
  12. That's the whole point of tuning. Try various boost levels and see what you can achieve at MBT. Find what does work best for the package in front of you, for that engine combo, fuel etc.
  13. Using boost control as a reactive traction control, is probably the slowest method of power reductions and would also be the slowest to restore power.
  14. If you log very slowly, it's always going to look crap ! And that table is pretty epic....seen some equally as bad from supposedly respected tuners too !!
  15. I think Subarus are around 65mm or so hose size and have a decent bead around them. Might be 70mm max. So should be in that size range for blade This thread suggests 60mm blade. Easily enough for 6-700hp, and Japanese reliability. https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1836358 Not the most compact though. Some of the Bosch stuff is a little more compact. Although I think the Hitachi/GTR blades are around 60mm or so too ? Might be a good few of those knocking about as people upgrade. Although some upgrades require the re-use of their motors.
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