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Stevieturbo last won the day on November 8

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About Stevieturbo

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  1. Yes, not that uncommon either as the covers tend to leak and need new seals. But totally doable. Probably not that easy to measure the clearances though, but should be able to get some feeler blades in ok to get a good idea of what's going on. I cant comment as to whether the live compression tests would show poor sealing....they maybe would...they probably should. But I know on cars I've seen this in the past, even a leakdown test didnt show anything, but the clearances were too tight, almost nothing in some cases. But I've never had the benefits of a scope/in cylinder to try on those faulty cars. But the symptoms strangely were usually idle misfires, but strangely seemed to affect running less at higher rpm's
  2. As said early on....a very common cause of idle misfires etc is poor valve sealing. Although usually older engines due to valve/seat recession. A new build should not suffer this...unless somehow valve/cam clearances were set too tight. Removing the valve covers is doable in the car, and IMO should be done to measure these clearances. Either to rule it out, and/or for peace of mind. Although as for cam timing, this is just a single AVCS engine ? not dual ? ie, intake only.
  3. On my car, ( not Link ) I set it up with a 12v supply from the brake pedal ( ie, 12v when pedal pressed, old car ) and then an ecu trigger ground at sub 2 mph. Your Vette may have a ground based brake pedal switch though. But no reason why speed only shouldnt be fine.
  4. earth a wideband in what respect ? Presumably you should not be taking a power ground for a wideband controller from a sensor connection....or arguably any connection from an ecu that does not have a dedicated output for such a purpose.
  5. Even cold vs warm engine, when it expands cam timing left to right will change. There's no way around that. The engine just gets bigger and smaller. A few degrees isnt going to matter though.
  6. 99/00 model 4 tower coil has the ignitor built in. earlier cars used external ignitors. So there is no real issue changing to the later COP coils.
  7. Only other caveat with 99/00 etc......is STI vs non STI sometimes have the crank/cam input wires reversed. So on a V5/6 loom and pnp......depending on what vehicle it actually is and wiring loom, you may need to swap these around.
  8. Although OEM may appear to operate it in sync with crank events....would it actually be critical ? I'd be surprised if a solenoid that large could actually keep up in such a manner ? It'd probably be worth scoping it to see how it is behaving at present, or if the ecu is in place and is capable of logging fast enough...log it. Although it probably wont be fast enough Also record it with a current clamp, to see how much current it is actually pulling. Even injection events, OEM will run multiple very accurately timed events per cycle, but pretty sure most aftermarket ecu's that do direct injection, do not follow this same strategy with far fewer injection events per cycle. In order to run a P&H for high current, something like this with maybe a pair of channels used might suffice ? https://www.fueltech.net/products/peak-and-hold-8a-2a-driver But it will all be trial and error.
  9. Then set a lean AFR rpm limit as long as your wideband is reliable and works.
  10. Have you configured the crank/cam as per 2001+ ( ie V7 etc ) yet ? If the loom is untouched in respect of crank/cam, you shouldn't need to be changing anything there.
  11. ignore the avcs aspect for the minute and setup crank and cam as per normal 2001+ cars to see if you get a working trigger setup and it will run.
  12. The first UK/Euro/JDM EJ25 AVCS's ran a crank/cam as normal, but also had 2..mmmmm I think they were VR sensors for the rear cam positions. It was only when they moved to hall cam triggers they dumped the normal front left cam trigger on the camwheel
  13. Because he is saying you cannot simply just apply power, and remove power as an off/on state as it will draw too much current. You need to be able to apply a high current briefly to open the valve, then reduce it to hold it open. Same as LowZ injectors.....although they aint pulling 10A. Although perhaps a P&H driver box with outputs linked to handle more current might be able to do it
  14. I already stated which SSR and diode I'm using at much higher currents. So dont see why they or smaller would not be fine for the spill valve. But are you looking to PWM the valve, or just the relay for the valve ? Is it an actual diesel application ?
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