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Everything posted by Stevieturbo

  1. SD linked to this ( first of three though ) a few days ago. Free and nearly an hour long. I downloaded it to watch, although havent got around to it yet. Of course biggest aspect of all this. Is having the correct type of transducer and more importantly software to go with it. Another I linked to before which was very interesting. This guy sells a scope setup from Ukraine and has done a lot of videos. With some very interesting software to go along with them. Obviously not applicable to all engines, but interesting all the same. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZfEJfHc8DpV6G23jClwruA/videos eg
  2. How are you actually measuring the sec waveform ? With a lead or something stuffed into the coil ? Or via some other adapter ? IMO if the coils are known good, plugs are known good, and wiring etc is known good...I think this area is of little concern. OEM coils are very powerful and reliable. So unless you're doing something strange in terms of dwell times or other....the problem is elsewhere. I guess a current clamp on the supply to all 4 coils might show any discrepancy between them ? Probably a waste of time though I've seen a lot of standard type cars with valve sealing issues due to valve/seat erosion, more so earlier 2000 model cars, say 2001-2006 though. So saying valve lash is "good".....actual numbers would matter more than "good". I did read years ago, that any issues like this, first port of call should be injectors. I can see their reasoning behind the statement, although in reality it isnt the first port of call. But I dont think you've mentioned what you're using, or how they're setup or configured within the ecu ?
  3. Ideally it would be a 300psi absolute sensor, so it can also read vacuum. Cant comment on the ignition waveform though, just not something I've had enough experience with. Some great videos on youtube from Scannerdanner though, and no doubt assistance via Pico forum etc.
  4. Really..if an engine start start within 2-3 seconds, continually cranking is not a solution. You need to establish why it is not starting....and all goes back to basics. air, fuel, spark, all at correct time and quantities. Hot starting almost any engine should be easy. Cold engines yes may take a little fettling, but hot starts should be easy. If a little fuel pump is draining the battery, well...it isnt, something else must be.. get the engine to start correctly first, before adding more complications into the mix.
  5. I want a Pico ! But yes, I just rigged up the pressure sensor to use the ecu to record a cranking and running compression test....because why not ? lol I have an ecu that can....and I do not have a Pico that can. Pico would be a lot more useful, although even with your 11% discrepancy bank to bank, I dont honestly think that would be enough to start pointing to a problem. What plugs, what gaps ? What were your valve clearances ? A little larger is usually a good thing, OEM specs are pretty tight. And was valve sealing checked prior to rebuilding ? You say Cosworth heads...so does that mean they were supplied complete and ready to go, or where multiple parties involved in putting them together ?
  6. As the gearbox VSS is basically a direct link to the driveshaft/propshaft, there isnt really any technical reason why that could not be used as a driven speed reference for traction control which would negate a need for two driven wheel speed sensors. Either or though, whichever is handiest.
  7. The GM sensor is a VR sensor, both wires should go to whatever device is reading as a sensor ground and signal. Not chassis ground as you are suggesting.. As to whether the Link can accept a VR signal, they would need to confirm.
  8. This is a screenshot from a datalog on my Syvecs. Have removed most info from it for clarity, but upper graph is crank/cam ( 36-1 and std LS 1x cam ) and lower cyl pressure in cylinder 1 from initial cranking to actually running/idling. Upper graph also shows battery voltage. Most are logged at 1000Hz for the purposes of the test. I wouldnt say the pressure sensor is calibrated 100% correctly but it should be pretty close. I'm sure it was a 300psi absolute sensor. Although I had bought 300 and 500psi sensors so cant remember which I used here. Not that it should matter. I just found that assuming a calibration based on 0.5 to 4.5v for the range it should have been...just seemed to give wrong numbers. And my Mityvac only went to 60psi positive. I have a small reg for my airline to go higher, but damned if I could find it when I did this. Oddly the first couple of bumps read very high pressure, compared to once it actually gets moving. As this was a start and run test, obviously it was not done with a fully open throttle as a normal compression test with a non running engine would be I presume you've tried the obvious of new plugs ? Coil problems are rare, but some do fail. Can you swap the coils ? Common cause of misfires on standard engines is valve/seat recession...but if you're using new heads that have been built/shimmed correctly etc...that should not be an issue.
  9. If you have a scope, you should be able to do a running compression test quite easily. I've done it before using a cheap 300psi absolute pressure sensor off ebay. At higher rpm's there is a little lag with the sensor, but for the purposes of this test it is viable. I just bought a cheap compression tester and adapted the sensor to the hose so it can be used as normal. A little awkward in a Subaru maybe, but still very doable. So this new engine itself....has never actually ran correctly ? What does a 4 gas analyser tell you ? Is there evidence of misfires ?
  10. 255 is a small pump, it does not draw a lot of current. And how does it affect tuning/starting unless you are not running an alternator or the system is not charging ? Or is the battery in poor condition ?
  11. Try giving us some information on how you have it wired and the ecu configured. Will it even work for you as a simple relay, with no PWM ?
  12. As per the instructions, yes.
  13. Coil choice will depend what is easiest fitted. VAG are popular, as are R35 GTR, as are Honda K/Denso. For coils, I would always say buy OEM, not any aftermarket, whether they claim to be OEM replacements or not. I've never actually used a separate ignition amp for about 15 years....so cant really think of one to use lol. But plenty of Bosch or similar, or OEM stuff out there. Or no doubt Link will sell one. But a pencil type coil with internal amp, or an LS style coil for coil near plug would be the preferred option Not really an on engine test...but a test for some coils, and a visual on shapes and sizes.
  14. I'd be more interested to know how you can possibly manage that from such a height....twice ?
  15. Well as you seem to be guessing rather than actually calibrating correctly...yes you should have someone competent re-tune things, or at least check the map sensor scaling is correct compared to the old one. And sadly, most of the GM style sensors these days are Chinese. For such a critical engine sensor.....not a chance would I use one.
  16. If the BMW coils are inductive....( usually 2 or 3 wires ) then yes you would need to run external amplifiers. Although some internally amplified coils are also 3 wires...so dont take that as meaning anything. From a simplicity point of view, I do prefer modern coils with amps built in and they are plentiful these days. Although as you'd be getting a loom made ? It wouldnt be too hard to add a pair of ign amps into the system for the 8 coils. If you have only one throttle actuator then that would be fine, I thought most ITB BMW's had an actuator for each bank. I tried the Dash2 with my old DTA via CAN many years ago.....and gave up. It's a pain in the hole trying to configure their CAN adaptor as an interface between the two devices and RT were of little help. I sold both instead, luckily I had bought the Dash second hand so didnt lose too much on it. IMO if it can work off serial, that should be easier as they should be able to configure the Dash already, so it's only the ecu talking to the dash...not the ecu talking to an interface and then talking to the dash. And there would be no guarantee they use similar sensors or sensor scalings. But really...that isnt any big issue. You're largely only talking water temp and air temp anyway. I wouldnt be too concerned about that. As for the cams, if you can follow instructions and have the correct tools, it shouldnt be too difficult yourself. Can't think of anyone I'd leave it to though
  17. first concern would be the dual DBW units on the M5, that ecu seems to have only a single H Bridge ? Dash2 normally runs serial, so you'd likely need their CAN adapter. RT should be able to advise, or you might be able to run it via serial which would save any hassle and extra boxes. Either way, it's just a power supply and 2 wires. ( Can Hi/Lo or for RS232 Tx and Rx and a ground, so 3 lol ) I wouldnt see the coilpacks being a problem, nor the sensors. Although it may be more convenient to change temperature sensors if you cannot find calibrations or sort calibrations for the existing ones. VVT could be a pain....but as you've mentioned doing away with that...then it shouldnt be difficult to get it running without it.
  18. Depends under what circumstances. But there would be no need for anything larger than OEM wiring....and any current ability would only apply to the motor wiring itself....not to mention the actual abilities of the H-Bridge running it. If they ever seen more than 10-15A...there would be a major problem.
  19. 12v power, power ground, and ecu trigger/ground to each coil. Not overly complicated ? If you have a loom...whatever an "xs loom" is, even 2 of them, surely the wiring is done ?
  20. I never stated to try and delay the main rev limiter. I said you can delay the onset of the generic gp rev limits.
  21. Is it not in the user manual ?
  22. You can set a time delay before it activates. It would seem sensible in the engine protection section....to actually have basic engine protection features though.
  23. Given the severity of plug damage, I would be very surprised if the engine is not already hurt. Find a competent tuner before they cost you a fortune.
  24. If a box is gona break...it's gona break. Dont be under any illusions it's as simple as stay below a certain torque and it will live forever.
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