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Stevieturbo

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Everything posted by Stevieturbo

  1. There is no fact that any setup can do that on every application, because every setup is different. But there is pretty much nothing a 4 port can do, that cannot be achieved with a 3 port. Nobody can guarantee you either will allow you that pressure range, and you will not know what it can do, until you try.
  2. nothing wrong with the sound of the exhaust, I'm not hearing any misfires ? And I would not have used the quoted valve clearances...always go a little bigger.
  3. Can't say I've heard any horror stories, and I know a few guys using 4 ports without issue. But really...a 3 port can do the same job anyway, been doing it on mine for years.
  4. And can easily be done with a 3 port too.... It's not rocket science. But the first question is.....do you even need this mode of control ? What issues are you having that you feel the need to do it this way ? But a 4 port solenoid should work too, they just respond a bit slower than a 3 port.
  5. Not sure I'm following the cam timing.....you do not, cannot adjust based on a valve opening and closing point ? And with the AVCS pulleys...they are not adjsutable anyway ? As Steve says, I literally did only pop back in here myself to check this thread lol
  6. True, always set using either max lift as per lobe centerline, or lift at 1mm ( or whatever reference is given ). Both should tally up as correct though. I would not be using an actual open from closed, or open to closed position for timing it in. Also ensure you're on the correct lobe too, as Kelford cams actually have the two lobes slightly different opening/closing ramps which is a little odd.
  7. Although are you saying you have adjustable AVCS cam wheels in order to actually do anything with the cam timing ? Never heard of that. Otherwise....not really a lot can be changed from how it's ground ? Have you contacted the cam supplier with your query ?
  8. A lot of those are definitely too tight, and they will close up when the engine is warm. I'd like to see 0.25mm on the inlets and 0.35mm on the exhausts. Err on the side of caution on the high side, simply because the 01+ heads do seem to wear valves and seats over time, and with hard use, the gaps can only decrease. A little extra does no harm at all. It's fairly common to grind a little off the top of the valve to gain a little clearance...with suitable tooling. A little bench belt sander setup correctly works well and makes it easy to ensure a flat and true top of the valve. Or yes, buy new buckets. IMO the cams at rest would be in a retarded state ? as the VVT can only advance them, but default position would be 0, ie retarded ? Never actually dialled in a custom cam VVT setup, only ever done regular camshafts. Although it would seem pointless them giving timing data that cannot be achieved as you cannot operate the VVT ?
  9. Or else just stick a 36-1 onto the crank pulley and use it instead ?
  10. As most aftermarket ecu's only look at the falling edge, which gives no position reference...I doubt it. Although if they could set the ecu to read the rising edge which does have a variety of tooth gaps, it could be possible. Why not just add/use the cam trigger ?
  11. Take it's counterpart and install it in a small enclosure. OR just straighten the rear pins and seal it all up after soldering/insulating etc. Not the prettiest, but perfectly functional if done well. Worth noting though that the rear side PCB pins, are coated with something so it's only the ends are easily soldered to.
  12. Adapt and overcome. Or just run without an air bypass and just use timing for idle control. Or just run an 01+ intake, which gives you better top feed injectors, and a simple ISCV.
  13. If it has been dyno'd, how could it not possibly be driven ? Some detail, history etc would help. Has it ever ran correctly ?
  14. Why not just keep it simple and use/retain the MY97/98 ISCV the ecu was intended for anyway ?
  15. If you have a plug play ecu, it makes the most sense to retain the wiring loom that is supposed to be on that vehicle unless there is an extremely good reason to change it. And changing only part of it is asking for trouble. If changing coils etc...it would be easier and safer just to modify those aspects of the wiring that only need changed to accommodate those coils. Why are you changing the intake and/or that wiring ? It wont make any difference from a performance point of view.
  16. 4 tooth is crap. Functional, but crap. That said....there's a Mk1 Escort drag car in Malta with a YB that runs 7.3 at 187mph and it is using a 4 tooth wheel. No idea what ecu though. So primitive can work ! IMO though, the likes of a 36-1 or 36-2 should be considered a basic standard for any build....because it's just well proven all over the world.
  17. What exactly happened that caused the issue in the first place ? Can you plug in a standard ecu, just to prove the car side of things is now healthy again ?
  18. Voltage from the crank and cam triggers will of course vary as an ac sine wave during normal operation. You need a scope trace to verify integrity of any signals. There is no other way to verify them.
  19. There ya go then, all sorted lol.
  20. If the files could be saved as a .csv, or exported as such then they could be used with other better/more universal software out there.
  21. Conventional possibly a little higher ? if anything at all. Would any of the other pressure sensor options have highlighted this quicker, rather than having to do each cylinder test ? ie, the transducer in the intake ? or exhaust ?
  22. Yes, not that uncommon either as the covers tend to leak and need new seals. But totally doable. Probably not that easy to measure the clearances though, but should be able to get some feeler blades in ok to get a good idea of what's going on. I cant comment as to whether the live compression tests would show poor sealing....they maybe would...they probably should. But I know on cars I've seen this in the past, even a leakdown test didnt show anything, but the clearances were too tight, almost nothing in some cases. But I've never had the benefits of a scope/in cylinder to try on those faulty cars. But the symptoms strangely were usually idle misfires, but strangely seemed to affect running less at higher rpm's
  23. As said early on....a very common cause of idle misfires etc is poor valve sealing. Although usually older engines due to valve/seat recession. A new build should not suffer this...unless somehow valve/cam clearances were set too tight. Removing the valve covers is doable in the car, and IMO should be done to measure these clearances. Either to rule it out, and/or for peace of mind. Although as for cam timing, this is just a single AVCS engine ? not dual ? ie, intake only.
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