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Stevieturbo

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Everything posted by Stevieturbo

  1. Stevieturbo

    G4+ and Thermocouple for EGT

    Or as others have used, albeit a little more expensive, but with more options...Price really does vary on this unit, but this is cheapest seller I found. https://tomson.com.pl/product-eng-4077-Ecumaster-EGT-to-CAN-module.html
  2. 2. Your Weldon controller IS a PWM controller. "Controls pump speed with PWM," https://www.weldonracing.com/store/14000-Pump-Controller-p56212294 PWM IS the correct way to vary a DC motors speed. ( PWM via SSR is not ideal as they are slower than would be liked, but perfectly viable and far better than any ancient crap of resistors trying to reduce voltage or other such nonsense ). So SSR's are still a good option. Heat, vaporlock....bullshit American stuff. Never seen anything of any such concern on a Subaru in 20 years working at them ( or indeed any other car ) Again, don't complicate things that do not need complicated. Unless you're doing some sort of 24hr endurance racing or something. Either just run the pumps all the time, or PWM them. I utterly despise all this staging of pumps as it is just pointless. 1 single lift pump will undoubtedly be fine, change to a 340 if necessary. And just run the 2x044's all the time. All this bullshit about hot fuel and other nonsense usually comes from idiots who've never logged fuel temperature in their life. So best to ignore them. If fuel temperature is a concern, then log it. If it does get too hot, then deal with it. It's a doddle to fit a fuel cooler. But unless you have a very small main fuel tank and live in a very hot climate, fuel temperatures will be of little real concern. It's very simple to log, a sensor will be £10-20 And the heat will apply whether there is 1 pump, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 pumps etc etc. A lot of the heat comes from the hot rails and circulating fuel to/from the engine. Very little comes from the pumps themselves despite what some might claim. And all this staging, multiple relays, pumps, triggers, controllers, whatever...they're all just unnecessary failure points. Keep it simple. But a dual 044 should give you 1200hp worth of fuel quite easily...IF you need that
  3. The above both seem strange. What does the Weldon controller use as a load reference in order to vary pump speed ? You appear to have only power and a basic on/off trigger reference ? You show a connection to Aux6, but I cannot see anywhere where you tell us what Aux6 is ? Although the Race part of the controller does look like a simple off/on where 12v would be ON. Almost makes such a controller pointless, even more so when only applied to half of your system. So is your Aux sending out 12v at high load in order to ramp the speed of these 2 pumps up ? IMO bad design throughout. If you want to PWM the pumps, then PWM them, doing a simple Hi/Lo setup is not that. I think Aeromotive offer a better controller where you can give it an rpm or other load input for at least some sort of variable speed. Or just control the pumps via an SSR and PWM them from the ecu. Also, with separately supplied/triggered 044's you will also need a check valve in the output of the redundant 044 otherwise fuel will try and pump back through it. Simple....One in tank 340, simple off/on via a relay ( or if you really must retain the 2x255's, do same for both ) Both 044's PWM'd and run together via an SSR based on engine load ( boost, rpm, whatever you want really )
  4. Why do people complicate things. Either just run the pumps all the time, or PWM them via the ecu if you can. All this staging, multiple relays etc etc just adds complications and failure points that arent needed. A single 255 as a lift pump would be fine as long as there is a decent size surge tank, and you dont expect to see use of a full 600+ for extended periods long enough to actually drain that surge tank to unacceptable levels. Or a single 340 would offer a lot more. No need at all for 2 lift pumps. Unless all the dual everything is some redundancy for essential racing to ensure you can always finish, or an aircraft lol. And typically ecu's do not send out 12v to run pumps. Typically they send out a ground to energise a relay, although if you can invert that you might be able to send out 12v instead. But that is not normal/common for an ecu.
  5. Stevieturbo

    Traction control on AWD

    I think you have too high expectations of what traction control might do especially on a 4wd application.....unless it was some extremely sophisticated setup, which a Link ecu isnt going to offer, or indeed most ecu's. As said, straight line stuff is fairly easy, but the impact TC can have on the driving dynamics...or if you get it wrong, can make them horrible to drive and in some cases unsafe and unpredictable. Much the same way many people really dislike OEM style traction control, which are very well developed. But yes, you need data, and lots of it. Wheel speeds, g forces, steering angles, brake inputs etc to all get a picture of how the driver handles the car and what action might need taken. Although those slicks sound huge, even 8" wide Avon's are enough to take a 4wd car onto two wheels around some corners.
  6. Stevieturbo

    4G93T MBT?

    So are you measuring power/torque on a dyno to come to these timing figures, or guessing ? And detonation is easy....listen. Your Plex offers you headphone sockets for this purpose, as well as the electronic/visual aspect. If this isnt ok, then plain and simple old manual det cans are extremely effective. Run it on the dyno and listen.
  7. Stevieturbo

    Traction control on AWD

    Sounds like you need to be using better tyres or diffs. I've worked on 600hp+ 4wd cars for hills etc, and ok yes the wet can sometimes pose challenges...but rarely the dry. And other than at launch, which would have it's own specific requirements anyway outside of traction control, very rarely are there full 4 wheel losses of traction. Anyone crazy enough to fully exploit that sort of power on a 4wd car on proper tyres....the last thing most would want is TCS intervention. Although the ROC of a driveshaft under these circumstances would be different than a more rapid ROC for loss of traction via 1 or 2 wheels. But again all of that is still down to fine tuning the system, which would be the case regardless. Taking the ROC back a step further.....ROC of rpm is another means of determining what is normal acceleration vs a loss of traction. But again there are variables and it could get quite complicated. But when you look at logs of any run where there is grip, vs traction loss....it's always apparent in the rpm trace. Making use of it would be difficult though, but probably not impossible. Even a 4 wheel system would still have some functionality for TCS, except the circumstances where all 4 wheels slipped at the same rate, which lets be honest would be rare. So that conventional setup culd probably still be utilised to a degree in the absence of any other means. Even with a GPS based "undriven" speed reference, you'd still need to spend a lot of time tuning the system for each track/surface/driving style. GPS can and does work for a speed reference, although for hillclimbs, especially if there is tree coverage etc this can affect the signal quality, although any GPS I've used tend to read lower under these circumstances, so TCS simply wouldnt activate so it shouldnt really impact too much on driving. I'm sure a good external aerial would help matters here though and the modern 50Hz stuff is probably a lot better than the 10Hz ones I've used. No matter what route...it will all be a lot of trial and error. But the easiest is power management from the outset for the track and conditions, with perhaps a power setting or two the driver can adjust if need be. Getting a TC system wrong though, can be utterly rubbish for a driver though and can affect the controlability of a car, especially if it is one the driver might throw or slide about. But log the 4 wheelspeeds first and see how they actually are.
  8. Stevieturbo

    Traction control on AWD

    Under what circumstances is this wheelspin ? Straight line, corners, launch, other ? The simplest means of preventing wheelspin...is power management to prevent it in the first place. Is one wheel a problem, one axle ? all wheels ? A decent GPS unit shouldn't have any lag that would cause major problems and if for whatever reason traction is so terrible, it'd still be better than nothing at all. but as others mentioned, some companies offer TC based on rate of change of a prop/driveshaft which can be viable if the software allows it. Not sure it'd be suitable for all applications, and as with any TCS, would require development time
  9. Stevieturbo

    2µF Suppressor, what type can it be or must be?

    There are any number of trigger wheels available in terms of size, diameter, tooth setup, it shouldnt be too difficult to fab something up for a solid reliable trigger. On my old RV8 and now LS, I just machined the rear side of the crank pulley a little then welded a 36-1 wheel onto them and added a VR sensor ( done before the LS 24x was accommodated on most systems, although the 24x wheel they use is shite and I wouldnt use it now anwyay ) Trigger setups can be done very cheaply if you want. My wheel and sensor would easily be less than £100 total.
  10. Stevieturbo

    2µF Suppressor, what type can it be or must be?

    Because as he said, the factory ecu was designed to work with that trigger, so it is capable of doing a better job than aftermarket units. Maybe Nissan ignore the multitooth aspect once running or something, and pay more attention to the phase side of the trigger etc which with less teeth would be less prone to inaccuracy problems.
  11. Stevieturbo

    Thunder cam sensor on high RPM turbo engine

    What's a duel table ? For dwell, it's entirely up to you, nominally they will say 2.5ms is enough time to give the quote spark energy they claim. Some will charge them for longer than this though. Whether you need more charge time is entirely up to you and your setup. It's been a while since I tested, but from memory I think they saturate around 5-6ms. Depending on engine rpm though, you may or may not have that sort of charge time available anyway.
  12. Some of the logs you posted, record the ecu live, engine not turning and MAP changing at varying levels, both vac and pressure. key on, engine off should be around 100kpa ( and this appears correct ), ie atmospheric. So are you saying you were not messing with the map sensor when these varying readings were happening ? If so...why where they happening ? it looks like they are being tested. Mityvac should easily be able to get to the 60psi or so their gauge goes to, although a test to 20psi gauge pressure should be fine.
  13. Stevieturbo

    2µF Suppressor, what type can it be or must be?

    The Nissan trigger system is a bit of a mystery. For them to go to the trouble of creating a trigger with so many teeth...optical for supposedly better resolution or something...and then to stick it on a camshaft on the end of a belt !!! The designers must have been eating Vodka laced sushi that day Really it should be one of the first things to throw into the bin and move to a crank trigger when tuning any of them.
  14. Stevieturbo

    2µF Suppressor, what type can it be or must be?

    What sort of resolution does the Pico sensor offer ? A lot of pressure sensors I see claim 1ms, ie 1000Hz...so realistically...will the Pico be any better than that ? The Autoscope one sells for around 105 Euro or so although they're bloody awkward to buy from taking Western Union. If it wasnt for that, I'd have bought a kit already. http://autoscope.eu/products/ They list it too as a -14.7 to 500psi sensor, so probably not ideal for petrol engines. I bought a cheap compression tester and added this sensor to it, and it seems ok at cranking and idle. Doubt it'd work that well at high rpm though. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pressure-sensors/1115919/?relevancy-data=636F3D3126696E3D4931384E525353746F636B4E756D626572266C753D656E266D6D3D6D61746368616C6C26706D3D5E2828282872737C5253295B205D3F293F285C647B337D5B5C2D5C735D3F5C647B332C347D5B705061415D3F29297C283235285C647B387D7C5C647B317D5C2D5C647B377D2929292426706F3D3126736E3D592673723D2673743D52535F53544F434B5F4E554D4245522677633D4E4F4E45267573743D3131312D35393139267374613D3131313539313926&searchHistory={"enabled"%3Atrue} Really...it would be nice if the aftermarket ecu makers, could start to integrate some of these diagnostic modes into their ecu's, seeing as they already receive a lot of good information. Relative compression tests would be a doddle, crank/cam ( and other sensor ) scope traces etc
  15. Whether 34psi or 54psi base pressure...little odds. Although typically base pressure would be around 45psi with no vac connected. I personally would not go lower than that, but each to their own. If crank trigger has not been touched, then no there should not be a need to confirm timing etc....but as you are having very strange readings/problems, a simple quick test makes sense. I presume your first log is with you playing with the Mityvac ? If so, why in the middle are there two incidents where throttle appears to have opened ? Did you do that, as they seem very brief ? and in your last log there, why is the map sensor stuck in the 140kpa range ? Unless you have some wiring issues....or plumbing to the map sensor issues...replace the map sensor.
  16. Stevieturbo

    Dual 3 Port Boost Solenoid Control

    Just use a 3 port to do the same thing, but create a very small vent hole on the top chamber ( ie that blows the gate closed ). Circa 0.6mm or so, MIG tip is handy. You lose a little top end pressure, but it makes control much easier overall. In most cases there is no need for separate control over 2 solenoids. Keep it simple.
  17. So you're saying key on, engine off, the map sensor correctly reads atmospheric pressure, as it always did ? And when you test with a Mity vac, it behaves as you'd expect both into vacuum and then positive pressure reading via PCLink ? Not sure how anyone could actually install cams so badly, nevermind have the engine run with an actual 6psi positive gauge pressure in the intake at idle. Can you compare a trigger scope of crank/cam trigger before/after to see if there are huge differences there ? Can you confirm ignition timing is as expected ? IDC seems very low, even for idle, what are mixtures like ? Compression test ? And why on initial cranking on log 1 does MAP reading hit the floor ? That is not normal, and could be more likely a wiring or faulty sensor or something. Because the engine should never be able to achieve that, nevermind that it then shoots to over 100kpa as rpm rises a little, again not possible.
  18. Stevieturbo

    2µF Suppressor, what type can it be or must be?

    On the topic of running compression tests...and sensors etc. Any thoughts on this gear? It's a lot cheaper than Pico, the gear/software is Ukranian based. Their pressure transducer is a fraction of the price of Pico's, although no idea what resolution either offer. The software shown here looks pretty cool ( I've never used a Pico though so maybe it can do similar ? ) I've used a cheapish Honeywell sensor for a few tests logging on my own car, it claims less than 2ms response, so around 500Hz i guess and logging at 1000Hz it seems pretty decent. Could only find a 500psi absolute sensor though, which wasnt ideal.
  19. Stevieturbo

    GFB boost controller

    Why would you want to, what do you think, or are you trying to achieve ?
  20. Stevieturbo

    if goes lean shut of ignition or throttle

    Such an actual engine protection feature does not exist, but you can create a low rpm limit based around load/lambda and base any cuts around this which will work ok.
  21. Stevieturbo

    water meth injection

    You will never see 300psi, nor will 2x1000cc nozzles be as efficient as smaller nozzles. Well other than when the pump is pumping against the closed valve and if the pump has been adjusted to see a higher pressure. In fact, with nozzles that large I'd be surprised if you ever see much over 100psi. The pumps simply do not flow what the suppliers claim, and any pressure claims are against a dead head. I've tested the AEM big pump under load and in the real world at pressures required....realistically they're only around a 1200-1300cc pump, and that was with a quoted 1600cc worth of nozzle...and tested not fighting against boost pressure which would reduce flow further. Even with only a 600cc nozzle...my factory set 200psi pump, could never create 200psi. With 1600cc worth of nozzle, in the car, in real world use max pressure I see is around 140psi....so if using say 40psi boost, that's now only 100psi of effective pressure to inject, so even less flow. But stick a pressure sensor on the line and log it for yourself and use this to control any fuel/spark adjustments, rather than what you're currently doing which offers no failsafe. It's a cheap and easy way to monitor what the system is doing, and could be an eye opener. It's a pity nobody seems to have done much testing on the various systems and pumps out there to prove or disprove the suppliers claims.
  22. Stevieturbo

    LIFE / SYVECS CAL SWITCH HELP!! Monsoon

    Typically they are a 2 wire switch, and yes there would need to be a pullup from 5v to the signal wire if the ecu cannot provide this internally. IF the switch has been done correctly than that should give rising voltages from lower positions to higher positions. Pretty sure it will be polarity sensitive too. Or if building your own switch, you could probably do this with a 5v/signal 2 wire setup, cant see much need for a ground wire. Post a picture of the switch.
  23. Stevieturbo

    Boost control. Under no load

    A base map is there to start the engine to allow it to be tuned. Which it seems did apply here ? Trying to copy other peoples maps in the hope they might do something for you, is dangerous. Have the engine tuned properly by a competent person otherwise you risk damage.
  24. Stevieturbo

    water meth injection

    Devilsown will probably want you to use their controller, and kit in general obviously...and there's nothing wrong with that. Really, discuss it with your tuner, to see what he can make work for you and your needs. If you can add a flow or pressure sensor on the line and apply any fuel/timing corrections based on that, then that can be the basis of a solid failsafe with regards tuning should the system fail. Although done right, they are very reliable these days. But with control on-board the ecu and via a SSR for the pump or similar, it just gives the tuner a bit more flexibility with how "progressive" the delivery can be. If just PWM'ing the pump, as most aftermarket controllers do anyway, then it doesnt really need anything fancy, simple works. So it's largely down to your tuner to decide how much water/meth they want to use, when they want to inject and how aggressive they might want any tuning to be
  25. Stevieturbo

    water meth injection

    Depends who's putting it all together and tuning it. Using the ecu could save some money as it removes the need for an external controller, but there really are a few ways you could do it, each with various pros and cons. Standalone setups are perhaps easier for a novice, but either way it will need tuned anyway so someone competent needs involved to get it all working properly.
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