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Stevieturbo

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Everything posted by Stevieturbo

  1. Only other caveat with 99/00 etc......is STI vs non STI sometimes have the crank/cam input wires reversed. So on a V5/6 loom and pnp......depending on what vehicle it actually is and wiring loom, you may need to swap these around.
  2. Although OEM may appear to operate it in sync with crank events....would it actually be critical ? I'd be surprised if a solenoid that large could actually keep up in such a manner ? It'd probably be worth scoping it to see how it is behaving at present, or if the ecu is in place and is capable of logging fast enough...log it. Although it probably wont be fast enough Also record it with a current clamp, to see how much current it is actually pulling. Even injection events, OEM will run multiple very accurately timed events per cycle, but pretty sure most aftermarket ecu's that do direct injection, do not follow this same strategy with far fewer injection events per cycle. In order to run a P&H for high current, something like this with maybe a pair of channels used might suffice ? https://www.fueltech.net/products/peak-and-hold-8a-2a-driver But it will all be trial and error.
  3. Then set a lean AFR rpm limit as long as your wideband is reliable and works.
  4. Have you configured the crank/cam as per 2001+ ( ie V7 etc ) yet ? If the loom is untouched in respect of crank/cam, you shouldn't need to be changing anything there.
  5. ignore the avcs aspect for the minute and setup crank and cam as per normal 2001+ cars to see if you get a working trigger setup and it will run.
  6. The first UK/Euro/JDM EJ25 AVCS's ran a crank/cam as normal, but also had 2..mmmmm I think they were VR sensors for the rear cam positions. It was only when they moved to hall cam triggers they dumped the normal front left cam trigger on the camwheel
  7. Because he is saying you cannot simply just apply power, and remove power as an off/on state as it will draw too much current. You need to be able to apply a high current briefly to open the valve, then reduce it to hold it open. Same as LowZ injectors.....although they aint pulling 10A. Although perhaps a P&H driver box with outputs linked to handle more current might be able to do it
  8. I already stated which SSR and diode I'm using at much higher currents. So dont see why they or smaller would not be fine for the spill valve. But are you looking to PWM the valve, or just the relay for the valve ? Is it an actual diesel application ?
  9. Clearly you need to learn to read. Nowhere did I say those cells needed dyno tuned...but I did say some basic common sense does need applied to such cells. And nowhere did I state ever whether your boost cut worked or not.
  10. Perhaps get back into the real world and use some common sense. Why should you need to anticipate basic tuning for cells ? Seriously, think about what you're saying. And BS about the "lean firing that comes with fuel cut"
  11. Bit silly running high boost, untested cells on pump fuel with aggressive timing ? Ultimately that's what the real problem is here. And a fuel cut will be a lot safer than an ignition cut. It just seems a lot choose ignition cut because it's more likely to make silly banging noises during a cut. But yes, improper ignition can and will destroy shit. Big time.
  12. Ahh yes, silly me. Potentially a good difference then. I have the Hantek myself. Don't know whether it's me or the setup, but I cannot seem to get it to actually log. I can display in real time no problem...but cannot get it to record data. I've a cheap USB Stingray too and it records ok. But generally the software is very poor and clumsy. I will get a Pico someday.
  13. When I used a cheapo sensor, there is noticable lag from pressure peaks ( ie TDC ) in relation to my cam trigger as rpm rises. I assume this is simply sensor lag ? The WPS quotes 100us...which is really 1ms. Which in the grand scheme of things, isnt that fast really ? Their sensor is a hell of a lot of money I think the cheapo sensor I used claimed 2ms response ( indeed searching most brands, they just claim <2ms anyway ) I think some of the brand name sensors I seen were saying around 1ms too, like Honeywell etc. I just bought the cheap one first as a test. I guess the Autoscope one would be decent enough too.
  14. Zisco in Malta makes a little bracket to run the Honda K coils, COP.
  15. connect in what respect ?
  16. Yea, the Western Union put me off too. If they accepted Paypal, I'd have bought their kit. I would still be pulling the valve covers off to check valve clearances though. It's awkward to do, but at least you'd know for sure if they are ok or not. Not sure how tight clearances would show on a running test as never done one, but I have had cars before where that is the problem, but neither compression tests or leakdown tests revealed anything unusual.
  17. Seems a huge number of threads with problems with these ? Even Innovate weren't this difficult....
  18. you do have a mismatch of wheels there. 6 tooth crank usually ran a 3, 1, 2, 1 pattern on the camwheel. And as Neil says, the 36-2-2 crankwheel from 01+ typically had 2 teeth on the camwheel. I can only guess someone has modified that camwheel in your photo for a single tooth. No idea if the Link can run a custom trigger setup to allow you to make use of this config without changing pulleys though.
  19. SD linked to this ( first of three though ) a few days ago. Free and nearly an hour long. I downloaded it to watch, although havent got around to it yet. Of course biggest aspect of all this. Is having the correct type of transducer and more importantly software to go with it. Another I linked to before which was very interesting. This guy sells a scope setup from Ukraine and has done a lot of videos. With some very interesting software to go along with them. Obviously not applicable to all engines, but interesting all the same. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZfEJfHc8DpV6G23jClwruA/videos eg
  20. How are you actually measuring the sec waveform ? With a lead or something stuffed into the coil ? Or via some other adapter ? IMO if the coils are known good, plugs are known good, and wiring etc is known good...I think this area is of little concern. OEM coils are very powerful and reliable. So unless you're doing something strange in terms of dwell times or other....the problem is elsewhere. I guess a current clamp on the supply to all 4 coils might show any discrepancy between them ? Probably a waste of time though I've seen a lot of standard type cars with valve sealing issues due to valve/seat erosion, more so earlier 2000 model cars, say 2001-2006 though. So saying valve lash is "good".....actual numbers would matter more than "good". I did read years ago, that any issues like this, first port of call should be injectors. I can see their reasoning behind the statement, although in reality it isnt the first port of call. But I dont think you've mentioned what you're using, or how they're setup or configured within the ecu ?
  21. Ideally it would be a 300psi absolute sensor, so it can also read vacuum. Cant comment on the ignition waveform though, just not something I've had enough experience with. Some great videos on youtube from Scannerdanner though, and no doubt assistance via Pico forum etc.
  22. Really..if an engine start start within 2-3 seconds, continually cranking is not a solution. You need to establish why it is not starting....and all goes back to basics. air, fuel, spark, all at correct time and quantities. Hot starting almost any engine should be easy. Cold engines yes may take a little fettling, but hot starts should be easy. If a little fuel pump is draining the battery, well...it isnt, something else must be.. get the engine to start correctly first, before adding more complications into the mix.
  23. I want a Pico ! But yes, I just rigged up the pressure sensor to use the ecu to record a cranking and running compression test....because why not ? lol I have an ecu that can....and I do not have a Pico that can. Pico would be a lot more useful, although even with your 11% discrepancy bank to bank, I dont honestly think that would be enough to start pointing to a problem. What plugs, what gaps ? What were your valve clearances ? A little larger is usually a good thing, OEM specs are pretty tight. And was valve sealing checked prior to rebuilding ? You say Cosworth heads...so does that mean they were supplied complete and ready to go, or where multiple parties involved in putting them together ?
  24. As the gearbox VSS is basically a direct link to the driveshaft/propshaft, there isnt really any technical reason why that could not be used as a driven speed reference for traction control which would negate a need for two driven wheel speed sensors. Either or though, whichever is handiest.
  25. The GM sensor is a VR sensor, both wires should go to whatever device is reading as a sensor ground and signal. Not chassis ground as you are suggesting.. As to whether the Link can accept a VR signal, they would need to confirm.
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