Stevieturbo

A single GM coil was never designed to run at the sort of duties it would see firing an 8cyl engine, for all cylinders. It is a very bad choice of coil for a coil/dizzy application. Either use 8 of them, or none at all.

Often a little porting of the wastegate orifice makes a huge difference. Nothing major, just smooth the flow into it. And do not damage the seat the flapper sits against.

Scope coil current to determine what the coil wants in terms of dwell. triggering method likely inverted so what you think is the coil off time, is actually on time melting everything

Modern OEM Subaru COP with internal ignitors work fine even at only 30psi boost. 585's are over-rated, far too many seem to get a hard on over them despite their massive and dangerous flaw of premature firing with too much dwell. Your problem is a strange one. I've used IGN1A's on a few cars ( non-link ) and never had any issues with them. If you are not 100% sure the coil triggering system is working safely, I'd proceed with caution. Sparks firing at the wrong time, can cause big problems

either your solenoid/wiring or boost plumbing must be incorrect if it all worked before.

largely your tuner is full of it. The OEM ecu is extremely good, perfectly fast enough, and from the factory, extremely well tuned. His comparisons or analogies are not valid in the real world. In this instance the biggest factor as to your engine making power or not ( and doing it safely and reliably ), is the person tuning it. the second factor is the dyno and whatever numbers you actually believe. All dynos read different, all dynos can be made to read different, and dyno operators can use their dyno in different ways. Same with tuners and ecu's, there are good and bad, all too often bad is operator related. If he tuned your car on the dyno, and all external factors remained the same and you seen good gains from before and after, that's the primary function of using a dyno. Comparing to other dynos, other setups etc etc...can be a minefield.

LS2 is a silver blade, and on the OEM can be problematic over time, and are pretty much unavailable. They were only used for a short run LS3 used the gold blade, which is readily available.

A similar issue has popped up with other ecu's in the past. A sort of fix was to wire the supply for the ignition coils via the fuel pump relay or trigger. The slight delay in coils turning on with key on, prevented the initial fire some hear/feel. I highly doubt changing anything relating to fuel injected will make any difference, although the user feeling anything probably does relate to some degree about residual fuel already left in any cylinder. Which can often be down to tuning too.

If it's 1/4, you might get away with rethreading it at M14 for an ATS04 Or GM do a 3/8" NPT https://www.diyautotune.com/product/gm-open-element-iat-sensor-with-pigtail/

Would it not be easier to buy a sensor with a thread more suited to the hole already there ? What thread/hole are you actually starting with ?

Exactly where on the scroll is that ? The closer to the turbine flange the better. And how is the gate control plumbed ?

fit a normal camshaft and dump the vvt.

There is no fact that any setup can do that on every application, because every setup is different. But there is pretty much nothing a 4 port can do, that cannot be achieved with a 3 port. Nobody can guarantee you either will allow you that pressure range, and you will not know what it can do, until you try.

nothing wrong with the sound of the exhaust, I'm not hearing any misfires ? And I would not have used the quoted valve clearances...always go a little bigger.

Can't say I've heard any horror stories, and I know a few guys using 4 ports without issue. But really...a 3 port can do the same job anyway, been doing it on mine for years.

And can easily be done with a 3 port too.... It's not rocket science. But the first question is.....do you even need this mode of control ? What issues are you having that you feel the need to do it this way ? But a 4 port solenoid should work too, they just respond a bit slower than a 3 port.

Nothing wrong with that ?

Not sure I'm following the cam timing.....you do not, cannot adjust based on a valve opening and closing point ? And with the AVCS pulleys...they are not adjsutable anyway ? As Steve says, I literally did only pop back in here myself to check this thread lol

True, always set using either max lift as per lobe centerline, or lift at 1mm ( or whatever reference is given ). Both should tally up as correct though. I would not be using an actual open from closed, or open to closed position for timing it in. Also ensure you're on the correct lobe too, as Kelford cams actually have the two lobes slightly different opening/closing ramps which is a little odd.

Although are you saying you have adjustable AVCS cam wheels in order to actually do anything with the cam timing ? Never heard of that. Otherwise....not really a lot can be changed from how it's ground ? Have you contacted the cam supplier with your query ?

A lot of those are definitely too tight, and they will close up when the engine is warm. I'd like to see 0.25mm on the inlets and 0.35mm on the exhausts. Err on the side of caution on the high side, simply because the 01+ heads do seem to wear valves and seats over time, and with hard use, the gaps can only decrease. A little extra does no harm at all. It's fairly common to grind a little off the top of the valve to gain a little clearance...with suitable tooling. A little bench belt sander setup correctly works well and makes it easy to ensure a flat and true top of the valve. Or yes, buy new buckets. IMO the cams at rest would be in a retarded state ? as the VVT can only advance them, but default position would be 0, ie retarded ? Never actually dialled in a custom cam VVT setup, only ever done regular camshafts. Although it would seem pointless them giving timing data that cannot be achieved as you cannot operate the VVT ?

Or else just stick a 36-1 onto the crank pulley and use it instead ?

As most aftermarket ecu's only look at the falling edge, which gives no position reference...I doubt it. Although if they could set the ecu to read the rising edge which does have a variety of tooth gaps, it could be possible. Why not just add/use the cam trigger ?

Take it's counterpart and install it in a small enclosure. OR just straighten the rear pins and seal it all up after soldering/insulating etc. Not the prettiest, but perfectly functional if done well. Worth noting though that the rear side PCB pins, are coated with something so it's only the ends are easily soldered to.

Adapt and overcome. Or just run without an air bypass and just use timing for idle control. Or just run an 01+ intake, which gives you better top feed injectors, and a simple ISCV.