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Stevieturbo

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Everything posted by Stevieturbo

  1. I just found this little display the other day. The say it will work with Link, as well as other aftermarket ecu's. And is also OBD compliant for factory vehicles http://www.ecudatascan.com/store.html?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage-vmshopblue.tpl&product_id=17&category_id=1 Perhaps an option ? Video of someone using it
  2. Assuming the steering controller takes a normal PWM output then that sounds possible. But do you know exactly what signal the factory ecu sent to the steering controller ? Was it a PWM or a variable voltage ? Or did the speed signal simply go directly to the steering controller ? Or was the ecu itself the steering controller ?
  3. None of those things should have any impact on the actual triggering from the dizzy. If you have altered the cam timing this can affect your TDC reference. This will affect ignition timing ( which will need checked and corrected. Nothing more though
  4. The question is a lot on the vague side. What are you trying to do, or what have you already done ?
  5. No section for this wish really.... Dont take this the wrong way, but this forum isnt exactly the nicest or easiest to use. Perhaps a better one more akin to normal bulletin style forums could be made available ? Text is small, replies are on half a red screen, grey and white for some reason too. And recently seems as if people have made posts...only for a blankpost to appear. perhaps more users would take part if it was just made better ?
  6. So if it has been installed and running for 4 years. Why is there suddenly a problem ? What have you changed ?
  7. pretty cool. WIll this be a generic CAN display tool, or specific to Link ?
  8. You really need to test with a scope and see what voltages you are seeing.from the sensors. You could try 0.5v up to 1000rpm say 1.5v at 2000rpm and should be safe at 3v above 3000rpm. I'd leave filtering low. But there is no generic correct. Every car is different. And are you sure you even have the trigger set up properly ?
  9. I can see the appeal of this myself in some respects. More as a novelty though than proper tuning tool. or as an in-car dash display would be cool too, either tablet or phone app, but not allowing any actual map changes. I dont see how they would achieve good safe functionality for use as a tuning tool without a keyboard though.
  10. The ecu does not lose the map when power is removed, for any length of time.
  11. I cant comment of the Volvo. But I recently got a 1990 Honda CRX up and running on a G3. As best I can tell, the tacho took it's signal from the coil ( built into the dizzy ) I fried the OEM ignition amp setting the damn thing up, and the coil no longer worked. I fitted a coilpack instead, but it left me without a tacho. I just wired an Aux output to the wire from dizzy to tacho and set the output to Tacho ( annoying that the multiplier doesnt allow 2 decimal places ) and the tacho worked fine, apart from a slightly inaccurate reading There are various signal modifier or adjuster boxes available. So maybe one of these might be of use to create a signal for you to use from a PWM output ?
  12. Good question. But I think the OEM controller is just a basic hi/lo ? There are plenty of PWM controllers out there that could be used to control a pump. But most seem to be resistance based for their output. Dont know of any that allow a full PWM output from a PWM input....which would be perfect. Might just be easier to fit an aftermarket FPR ?
  13. Not just get another map sensor ? If it's a typical 2 bar boost gauge, then chances are most 3 bar map sensors will be close enough to use.
  14. Can you just use a normal PWM output and see what happens ? Or if you just need to input a 60-2 trigger, why not just use the 60-2 trigger ? Isnt that what it used originally ?
  15. If you're using a single coil and dizzy, surely nothing much has changed ? Just route the trigger wire to the coil -ve terminal through the inductive loop. Or the power wire to the coil. The actual coil operation is no different than previous ?
  16. Maybe try the G4 software ? it works with the G3 as well.
  17. Didnt it take a neg trigger off the coil like most rev counters ? What ignition setup are you using now ? And have you tried simply inputting an aux out signal to the tacho input ? Whilst not ecu specific, you could ask over on the Turbosports Forum. Lots of Mk1 Escort users there, and I'm sure someone has come across this before
  18. Cant edit my post..... The above may allow the fans to run when everything is turned off unless you also relayed the power supply for the fans in a conventional manner too. But with so many fans already, an extra relay or two will hardly hurt. Even if the inverted one was only for triggering the others for example
  19. If you have enough Aux outputs, you could stage the fans coming on so there would be less of a hit on the electrical system. And when cranking, the PAS pump should not be an issue. Unless you steer a lot during engine startup. And if you basically run the fans most of the time. You could look into using a changeover relay. Effectively same as a normal relay except there are two terminals. One is closed circuit when energised, and the other closed circuit when not energised. So in order to turn your fans on, you would turn "off" the relay. To turn the fans off, you would energise it. Using this along with wiring an ign supplied 12v for power to energise the coil should resolve your problems. But you would need to flip/invert the Aux out settings for off/on
  20. Previously Ryan Simmons wrote: Hi I have a set of fans that i require to run constantly whilst the engine is running but only switch on whena couple of conditions are met. basically i ask for 'more than' 1500 rpm and 'more than' 30' ECT. I wired the fan relay trigger into AUX4 amd configured as a GP output and set up the required conditions without issue. Now, heres the problem. The fans remain off when less than 1500rpm, juat as they should and come on when the revs go over, but when i turn the engine off, the AUX defaults to 'on' causing the fans to switch on! so basically, when the ignition is turned off, the fans turn back on!! How do i stop this? Also, the voltage drop from the fans is quie a lot causing the idle revs to bog down quite bad, can i add an Idle up table thats assigned to the AUX4 output to allow me raise the RPM slightly at the moment the fans come on? Thanks for the help! Ryan. Wire the +ve trigger of the relay to a switched ign source, not a permanent one. Then when you key off, it doesnt matter what the ecu is doing, the relay cannot be energised.
  21. Ive installed a Link LEM G3 to oone of the above cars. Anyone any pointers as to correct trigger setup ? Amazingly the car does start and run in two different setup modes, although I have no control over ignition timing. I was advised some time ago by link it would be Multitooth, Cam, Cam and 24 teeth. This yields no rpm signal, and Trig 1 errors count up. Also tried 16 teeth, same result. I cannot get the rotor arm off the inspect and physically count the teeth and dont want to risk breakage. If I set it to 1 tooth per TDC and cam, it will run and no errors count up. However I cannot make any changes to baseline ignition timing. If I set it to Honda K20 VTC mode, again it starts and runs, no errors, and no control of timing. Actual ignition timing in the two modes is different, but adequate to allow the engine to run, and run very well for a first start. Anyone any help ?
  22. Hi Jurgen. I was able to alter the load axis sites by right clicking on the axis and selecting "insert, remove or adjust" that row or column A slow process but it worked and was able to add/use as many sites as I needed. Although the first 0 ( zero ) row and column could not be adjusted. Thanks for the tip Stevie
  23. Thanks, I see it now. Although it does list one as sensor and the other power without noting which pin is which. But yes, I didnt look to see that they both grounded together at the block. So the distinction isnt important Most other ecu's Ive wired always have a totally separate pin for sensor grounds. Not externally combined with power grounds. Every little bit moves one step closer Cheers Stevie
  24. Did you wire the Link in with a new loom, or did you make a patch harness, or splice this in ? I bought a Volvo a couple of months ago, and I'm toying with the idea of fitting an ecu to it. Would prefer a plug in install, but I'm not averse to making a new loom if I have to. Odd the way they use separate fuel and ignition computers !
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