Stevieturbo

Why do you want to change it in the first place ? ( either will work ) And why on earth are you scaling things to 400kpa ! Find a competent tuner and get it done right. Although at least the idle area has become a bit more sensible.

Assuming he has it plumbed "normally".

The VW M10 to M8 stud I talked about the first time ! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BEETLE-CABRIO-Stud-M8-exhaust-stud-repair-oversize-M8-M10-x-38mm-N0144832/361427269003?hash=item5426be758b:g:FqYAAOSwKJFaqBW8

The only answer is it may do. How much difference it will make will depend if the new setup is better or worse, and how the car was tuned in the first place.

That's the whole point of tuning. Try various boost levels and see what you can achieve at MBT. Find what does work best for the package in front of you, for that engine combo, fuel etc.

Using boost control as a reactive traction control, is probably the slowest method of power reductions and would also be the slowest to restore power.

If you log very slowly, it's always going to look crap ! And that table is pretty epic....seen some equally as bad from supposedly respected tuners too !!

I think Subarus are around 65mm or so hose size and have a decent bead around them. Might be 70mm max. So should be in that size range for blade This thread suggests 60mm blade. Easily enough for 6-700hp, and Japanese reliability. https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1836358 Not the most compact though. Some of the Bosch stuff is a little more compact. Although I think the Hitachi/GTR blades are around 60mm or so too ? Might be a good few of those knocking about as people upgrade. Although some upgrades require the re-use of their motors.

Why would there be ecu control of the fans, and also an old thermo switch ? That doesnt make sense. And you would always want ecu control anyway.

You'll see raw voltages in the runtime values for the inputs.

LS coils do not require an external ignitor. If you have 6 ignition outputs that you can use, then it will be easy to change, just wire trigger direct to relevant pin on the coil as per above ( and configure ecu accordingly )

Weird one....presumably the vehicle is still operating ok during this ? And what is cortana ?

The wideband controller will take care of sensor heating and temperature. The ecu cannot directly control a wideband sensor.

Sensor heater temperature is not EGT

Very simple... Apply pressure to the sensor and test/verify it reads correctly.

Quite simple, bad tuning can destroy even the best engine in a matter of seconds.

With a bad tuner, they can be destroyed at less than standard power. With a good tuner they can easily support more than a VF37 will make.

Base files are included in the software, and downloads are on Link's website, as are help files in the software. And Link does not use the MAF sensor.

Some VW's use an odd M8 to M10 stud, cant seem to find them now. Or it seems you can get adapters for motorbike mirrors ( one of this pair seems to have a LH M10 male thread, the other a RH male thread ) https://www.amazon.co.uk/YAMAHA-MIRROR-ADAPTORS-MIRRORS-RIGHT/dp/B002RB107M/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1548978673&sr=1-4&keywords=8mm+to+10mm+thread Doesnt say thread pitch though, but ti does look like standard as opposed to typical Jap fine thread. This also looks same idea. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ryde-Motorcycle-Mirror-Thread-Adapter/dp/B00CJD1P5A/ref=pd_sbs_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00CJD1P5A&pd_rd_r=e25b6f29-25b2-11e9-ad2c-0f2b64b4e14a&pd_rd_w=Kdomj&pd_rd_wg=xwJnf&pf_rd_p=18edf98b-139a-41ee-bb40-d725dd59d1d3&pf_rd_r=K31Z623BF7RP05FKPCES&psc=1&refRID=K31Z623BF7RP05FKPCES Or helicoil the M10 hole to M8. It'll never hold a strong fixing, but perfectly strong enough for a knock sensor. Or get some M10 threaded rod and some dies and thread it down to M8.

Weld a brake pipe fitting onto the manifold/collector. Then you can just screw in some brake pipe to dissipate the heat before the sensor, and when done screw in a nipple to seal it up. Or drill, tap, whatever suits

Or as others have used, albeit a little more expensive, but with more options...Price really does vary on this unit, but this is cheapest seller I found. https://tomson.com.pl/product-eng-4077-Ecumaster-EGT-to-CAN-module.html

2. Your Weldon controller IS a PWM controller. "Controls pump speed with PWM," https://www.weldonracing.com/store/14000-Pump-Controller-p56212294 PWM IS the correct way to vary a DC motors speed. ( PWM via SSR is not ideal as they are slower than would be liked, but perfectly viable and far better than any ancient crap of resistors trying to reduce voltage or other such nonsense ). So SSR's are still a good option. Heat, vaporlock....bullshit American stuff. Never seen anything of any such concern on a Subaru in 20 years working at them ( or indeed any other car ) Again, don't complicate things that do not need complicated. Unless you're doing some sort of 24hr endurance racing or something. Either just run the pumps all the time, or PWM them. I utterly despise all this staging of pumps as it is just pointless. 1 single lift pump will undoubtedly be fine, change to a 340 if necessary. And just run the 2x044's all the time. All this bullshit about hot fuel and other nonsense usually comes from idiots who've never logged fuel temperature in their life. So best to ignore them. If fuel temperature is a concern, then log it. If it does get too hot, then deal with it. It's a doddle to fit a fuel cooler. But unless you have a very small main fuel tank and live in a very hot climate, fuel temperatures will be of little real concern. It's very simple to log, a sensor will be £10-20 And the heat will apply whether there is 1 pump, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 pumps etc etc. A lot of the heat comes from the hot rails and circulating fuel to/from the engine. Very little comes from the pumps themselves despite what some might claim. And all this staging, multiple relays, pumps, triggers, controllers, whatever...they're all just unnecessary failure points. Keep it simple. But a dual 044 should give you 1200hp worth of fuel quite easily...IF you need that

The above both seem strange. What does the Weldon controller use as a load reference in order to vary pump speed ? You appear to have only power and a basic on/off trigger reference ? You show a connection to Aux6, but I cannot see anywhere where you tell us what Aux6 is ? Although the Race part of the controller does look like a simple off/on where 12v would be ON. Almost makes such a controller pointless, even more so when only applied to half of your system. So is your Aux sending out 12v at high load in order to ramp the speed of these 2 pumps up ? IMO bad design throughout. If you want to PWM the pumps, then PWM them, doing a simple Hi/Lo setup is not that. I think Aeromotive offer a better controller where you can give it an rpm or other load input for at least some sort of variable speed. Or just control the pumps via an SSR and PWM them from the ecu. Also, with separately supplied/triggered 044's you will also need a check valve in the output of the redundant 044 otherwise fuel will try and pump back through it. Simple....One in tank 340, simple off/on via a relay ( or if you really must retain the 2x255's, do same for both ) Both 044's PWM'd and run together via an SSR based on engine load ( boost, rpm, whatever you want really )

Why do people complicate things. Either just run the pumps all the time, or PWM them via the ecu if you can. All this staging, multiple relays etc etc just adds complications and failure points that arent needed. A single 255 as a lift pump would be fine as long as there is a decent size surge tank, and you dont expect to see use of a full 600+ for extended periods long enough to actually drain that surge tank to unacceptable levels. Or a single 340 would offer a lot more. No need at all for 2 lift pumps. Unless all the dual everything is some redundancy for essential racing to ensure you can always finish, or an aircraft lol. And typically ecu's do not send out 12v to run pumps. Typically they send out a ground to energise a relay, although if you can invert that you might be able to send out 12v instead. But that is not normal/common for an ecu.

I think you have too high expectations of what traction control might do especially on a 4wd application.....unless it was some extremely sophisticated setup, which a Link ecu isnt going to offer, or indeed most ecu's. As said, straight line stuff is fairly easy, but the impact TC can have on the driving dynamics...or if you get it wrong, can make them horrible to drive and in some cases unsafe and unpredictable. Much the same way many people really dislike OEM style traction control, which are very well developed. But yes, you need data, and lots of it. Wheel speeds, g forces, steering angles, brake inputs etc to all get a picture of how the driver handles the car and what action might need taken. Although those slicks sound huge, even 8" wide Avon's are enough to take a 4wd car onto two wheels around some corners.