Craig Tickle

Thank you - I'm an idiot. Would have sworn that I was pressing enter, obviously hitting tab instead.

Hi, I'm trying to set the base timing, I've gone through the process, entered the offset (10°), pressed Done. Stored to the ECU but when I come back to it the trigger offset displays the old value. (-4.5°) What am I doing wrong ?, I've successfully done this in the past which is how the incorrect value got there.

Sorry the tacho is on AUX 18 not 17, PC link doesn't appear to show an undershoot on reported rpm. Sorry - I couldn't figure out how to get PC-link to show the the frequency that AUX18 was out putting, status just shows PWM.

When the car comes to a halt, the tacho will briefly drop to zero and then return to idle speed, is this expected behavior ? The engine doesn't miss or stall so I don't see this as a huge problem, I'm more curious if I've set something up incorrectly. The tacho is a SpeedHut one driven by AUX 17 with an external pull up resistor, The car has rear wheel speed sensed by DI3 and front wheel speed sensed by DI2, the speedo (also a SpeedHut one) appears to report vehicle speed accurately

Hi, I'm in the process of converting an early 80's Fiat Twin cam to EFI. The plan was to add Bosch sensors to act as cam & crank sensors with suitable custom trigger wheels / targets attached. However when I pulled the distributor apart, I found it had a reluctor sensor in it, not the points I was expecting. When spun up with a drill, it gives the signal below. Is using it as a cam angle sensor as simple as grinding off three of the pointy bits and wiring it in as trigger 2.

Will a G4X monsoon drive a BMW E36 4 cylinder coil pack directly with out an igniter? I've had conflicting advice. If an igniter is required, can anyone recommend a coil pack with a similar form factor with in built igniters. My issue is it's an all fibreglass car , so there's nothing to heatsink an igniter to. (the only metal in the engine bay is the engine & transaxle)

Cheers - Thank you

Hi, I have a 1995 Mitsubishi FTO, which has a module labelled "Ignition Failure sensor" on the circuit diagram (see below). If I'm using a G4+ to drive the coils is there any reason I shouldn't just bypass it?, Cheers Craig

Thanks Simon, I guess I could drive the runner in a similar manner to how you suggest I do the Mivec, but set the PWM duty cycle after the rpm window to something really small. And just ignore the feed back signals. I'll also investigate adapting a solenoid that is simpler to drive from a different engine. Craig

I have some additional information I managed to extract out of the stock ECU. Mivec. Both solenoids are activated together at about 5700 rpm, current draw is 1.4 A per solenoid. The solenoids are pulled low for about 1.5 seconds, then the ECU swaps to a 50% duty cycle square wave at about 350 Hz (Mivec scope trace.gif). Is it possible to configure an Auxiliary Output to do that? It appears that the square wave is just to reduce the current through the solenoids I didn't notice any PWM happening in any of the runs. Variable Valve Induction Control Servo. First point - my relay network above won't work The servo is a straight DC motor driving some reduction gears and then a worm drive (current draw is about 1.2 A). The hall sensor magnets are mounted on the worm gear shaft and it takes about 5 turns on the worm gear to make the valve change state. The Hall effect sensors give pulses while the valve is changing state but you can't sure that the end state will be different to the start state. (Induction valve.gif). I guess the way to drive it could be, Apply power to the motor when the pulses stop remove power so you don't burn out the motor, is there a way to do that? Ignition Just for completeness here's a scope trace of the crank angle and cam angle sensors at idle (ignition.gif) Blue is cam, red is crank. There's 4 triggers on the cam (1 is wider) and 3 on the crank. I believe this is the same as a GTO can any one confirm this?

Hi, I'm after some info on the Mitsubishi 6A12 MIVEC engine from a 1995 FTO. The plan is to use a Storm ECU to replace the factory ECU The wiring diagram (see below) for the car shows separate MIVEC controls from each bank going to the factory ECU. Is there any reason what they can't be commoned to one AUX output ? My understanding is that this version of MIVEC only requires a rpm switched output and I don't need to do the full VVT thing. Is this correct ? The engine has a thing called a "Variable Induction Control Valve Servo", which internally has 2 hall effect senors and a motor, both motor terminals and the outputs from the hall effect sensors go back to the factory ECU. My guess is the hall effect sensors tell the ECU when the valve is in the open or closed position so it can turn off the motor and that it's not a continuously positioned thing. Can anyone confirm that ? What would be a good approach to driving this thing ? I did come up with the god awful relay network below which only consumables one AUX output but it kind of offends me. Surely there's a more elegant method. Cheers Craig

Ok, I'll give the office a call and start the ball rolling for you have a look at it

Would this also have made the car very hard to start?. We ended up having to tow it down the road to get it to fire. At normal cold temperatures say around 6°C it fires straight up. Or to rephase the question, could I expect an improvement in very cold starting ( <0°C) if I send the ECU back for upgrading?

I have a very old Link ECU circa 1996 (LEM4?), it's still performing well but this weekend was the first time the car has been really cold soaked. No amount of cranking would start the car so I attempted to increase the 0° cold start setting but found the programmer was displaying the current engine temperature as 500° ! Is this expected behavior at low temperatures or does it indicate a fault with either the ECU or the coolant temperature sensor.?