TECH12

I believe I've added all those to be logged by the ECU. I will double check.

So i finally had time to try to get fault code 75 again with my original settings. the TP would trace well when i was in the right gear but when i upshifted and played with the throttle at low rpms the TP and Ethrottle target would go off going into limp mode. attached is my log.

i didnt see a TP/Target Error Accumulator, that was only an option if i had a E-throttle 2 sensor which i'm only running E-throttle 1. I wasnt able to drive the car since it was boxed in the garage due to a hail storm heading our way last night. I set the e-throttle set up mode on and played with the throttle to see if i could replicated the bouncing while coming off full throttle and it didnt seem to happen. I changed the settings to p-8.5 and D=40 and it looks like it made the TP and target further off.

CJ, Thank you for the input, i really appreciate it. I will add those parameters to my ecu logging and see I can replicate it on the street. Just curious are there parameters that you recommend being logged at all times for troubleshooting purposes? i know we are limited on the number when we are logging on the ECU. Adamw, Thanks, i will try to replicate the issue with the current settings with the additional parameters and then try adjusting the P&D settings to see if that works.

Attached is the log file, i had to compress it since it's over 10mb Log 2019-04-14 12;29;01 pm 2005 pedal.zip

I'm running into an issue where i keep getting a fault code 75: Throttle plate position unable to maintain or achieve the desired target position. I've redone the TPS calibration procedure multiple times, i've replaced the throttle body with a new unit and i've switched out the accelerator pedal thinking it was that as well. This issue started happening after an alternator went out , it was replaced with a new one and that's when i've started having issues. This is mainly happening at the track. Before this weekend i replaced the throttle body with a brand new unit and i spent two 30 sessions this past weekend going around a track at slow speeds during the rain and there were no issues, no codes popped up so i thought the new throttle body fixed it. Once the track dried up i was able to go WOT and get on pace and that's when the code would start popping up and the car would go into limp mode. sometimes the car would go into limp mode right after turns where i'm feathering the throttle and then sometimes The fault code pops up randomly and i cant figure out why. 2005 R53 Mini cooper i have data logs of the last session and the map.

Is it possible to display fault codes from a link G4+ to the Link dash2 pro when they come up?

I have a return line set up on my R53 to run a flex fuel sensor on the return side. Like adam mentioned you will need to connect a regulator on the return side and then feed the hose back into the fuel tank. Revolution Mini Works has all the parts you'll need for install.

Shows it now thanks!

Can you repost this .PNG it's not showing up any longer

thanks i will email

I'm having the same issue same car/unit, my a/c worked before the link ECU swap. I have a log which i can share. Who can i share with via email?

Thanks, so i will go to the chassis and body section and correct the speed -5%

The equaton is Calibration Number = (Number of Sensor Teeth / Wheel Diameter in meters) * 31.83... With my new diameter 15" which is 0.381 Meters. How do i figure out the number of sensor Teetch?

I have a R53 Mini Cooper, I have a link G4+ extreme connected to a Dash2 Pro. I'm witching from 215/45/17 tires to 225/45/15 tires so i know the speedo is going to show a faster speed than i'm actually going. Is there a way to make this correction in the ECU?

Just wanted to post that i have a R53 running the link G4+ which can run pump gas to E100, 1000cc injectors, flex fuel sensor, upgrade fuel pump, reads fuel pressure, oil pressure and oil temps. My tuner specializes in Mini's and Vipecs and Link ECU's. He might be an option to help as well if you have questions on set up.

Thanks Scott, I'm going to be saving that image for future reference. i appreciate the help from everyone thanks. sorry for the delay i've been out of town. I just got my car back from my mechanic, he didnt see any issues with compression or vacuum leaks. i just pulled the injectors and they are bigger than what my map is set up for, so im going to get with my tuner and see what he wants to do. This might explain why its running so rich.

Thanks sardengineering. Yeah I have a innovate Motorsport lc-2 wideband O2 sensor running in the exhaust system. I need to get ahold of my car to see the tables Scott is referring to. But yes I have to ligtly press the throttle to keep the rpms at 1k.

I'll let him know, I just thought with the latest firmware the ECU can be read through the obd2. The thing that's stumping me is that I'm not seeing any fault codes when my car stalls out.

Thanks, i'll have to look at the settings once i get ahold of the car again. i asked him to look into the TMAP and MAP sensors. That's the area i was concerned with, the sensors going out or the wiring to them. during my rebuild i didn't move the TMAP from the manidold, and i left the vacuum tube on the other MAP sensor. He was asking if the OBD2 still worked to look up any codes. Since i have the link g4+ extreme with the latested firmware everything should be unlocked. Is there anything i need to set up through my computer to unlock it for him? The ECU has already been unlocked with the code from the dealer. 2005 R53 MINI COOPER

So i have a a link g4+ extreme ecu, my tuner gave me a base map and at the time it would start and and idle fine. we made a few more adjustments and now the car's RPM's fall like a rock when i push the clutch in and dies. i have to keep the RPMs above 1k to keep it from dying. My ecu is reading my TMAP sensors. i ran a vacuum test and we had a leak at the BPV and around the intercoolers. i plan on replacing it ASAP. I know the IDLE is ran by the ecu from the inputs but is there any where in the software where i can where it's set at to run when it's suppose to idle on it's own? update: My local Mini mechanic is saying the car is running too rich to idle.

Thanks Scott

Thanks for the feedback Dave, it looks like it's working again. -Daniel

I had my tuner remote connect to my laptop to connect to my laptop to give me a base tune, during the process he told me my battery wasn't charging. i reconnected my alternator and i want to check if its charging now on my own, how do i check that while I'm connected to my ECU on my laptop? also where can i get a manual on the link G4+ EXTREME or some tutorials or walk troughs on how to use it for general purposes.