Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Brendon001 last won the day on January 2 2017

Brendon001 had the most liked content!

About Brendon001

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi timmy. Tried the above suggestion and would work with increased values when IAT sensor was around 50-60 degrees but then when at 90degrees ECT and normal 20degrees IAT engine would flood and foul plugs. Ended up leaving those settings and doing similiar to the HP academy 350z tune and put positive values in the 0%TPS row from 40degrees to 80degrees IAT on the IAT compensation table, starts perfect any temperature now and even when the sensor heat soaks after 10-30 minutes the positive values give the extra fuel required
  2. Hi Adam and Timmy, have added another question regarding warm start issue if you could make any suggestions! Thanks Brendon
  3. Thanks guys pretty much sorted now! Updated the firmware, raised the idle ignition rmp lockout, raised the idle ignition value to 16 at 0 error and adjusted all the upper and lower error rpm columns, and updates the overrun rpm ect activation table at the warm temperatures. This gave the idle setup more chance to catch the rpm and now it will drop to around 650-700rpm, raise to around 1000 then settle to idle pretty quickly with no bouncing. Just need to fine tune the idle dc settings on the solenoid and will be sorted! Thanks Brendon
  4. Brendon001

    Warm start issue

    Hi guys Edit: I am also having another issue where once warm/hot the car will not start if i leave it for more than a few minutes. Starts and restarts cold and warm every time if not left for long (when warm can turn it off and restart repeatedly) but when up to 90degrees ect and left to heat soak when the IAT is around 40-60 degrees the car will just crank continuously but not start. As soon as the IAT cools down to 20degrees it starts fine with no throttle. If i hold 100% throttle it will rumble into life after 10 seconds or so. Do i need adjustments to my warm crank enrichment and add or remove fuel? Or my IAT compensation table at the 40-60 degree range at 0% TPS? (Does the IAT compenstaion table affect starting fuel as not rpm based?)Not sure if i need to add or remove i fuel as it will not burp or anything when this hot and part throttle doesnt help, and wideband only up after 30 seconds so not much help. How do my current crank enrichment and IAT comp tables look? Thanks I have been playing around with my idle settings over the last few days. I have gotten the warm up and cold start sorted and once the car gets into idle the idle is stable at 14.7AFR and my target of 950RPM when warm. The car has also been dyno tuned by my tuner in regards to the rest of the ecu. It is on my toyota altezza with 9.0:1 compression, stock cams just uprated valve springs. It is running a hypertune manual throttle body with a 2 wire NZefi idle control valve(set at 120Hz as this is what was recomended on the idle valve info sheet)(is this correct as all link and others say 200-300Hz). With the idle control turned off it idles around 500-600rpm on the throttle plate but will stall eventually if the throttle is stabbed and the rpms are not controlled coming back down. The problem I am having is every so often when coming to a stop clutch in at traffic lights etc the rpm will drop quickly and sometimes head to around 500-600rpm, before shooting up to 1500rpm and then does this over a few times before finally settling into idle, or sometimes it will not settle and oscillate between the low and high rpms and I need to give it tiny throttle input to settle it. I have also set up the idle ignition control. The log attached the drive actually went pretty well except the last few stops right at the end where the 600rpm happens (gets close to stalling but never does). Is someone able to look over my tune and give me their thoughts on my settings? I had noticed the ignition values on the main table jump around from 18-12-16 around the idle zone if that may not be helping) but thinking it may be to do with my idle settings. Fan step, AC and startup etc are all ok. Ideally I would like the rpms to drop and then hold above the RPM target and then slowly come down to it, rather than dropping below/through the rpm idle range it and having to catch the stall and bounce up and then drop again. Note running an innovate wideband that comes online 30 seconds after car is started Base fuel pressure was set at 43.5psi by tuner on my 1050X ID injectors. I also noticed that the injector size does not say 1060cc at 43.5psi like the data sheet said that came with all the other injector values (currently reads 900cc at rated fuel pressure?) Thanks Brendon 300kW Cold start, Idle sorted final.pclr log testing idle coming to a stop.llg
  5. Sorry attached is the log. Still seems to be the same? The FPS calibrates fine every time. The TPS sometimes comes up Error 16:cannot reach target 98% but sometimes calibrates and sets ok. Any thoughts? Thanks Brendon E throttle with calibrated sensors.llg
  6. Ok thanks for the info. I will keep an eye out on the accumulator. That error scenario seems slightly different to mine however as if it applies the 1800RPM limit it shouldnt stall out the engine?. When the rpm limit came up on the logging during dyno day it did not light a CEL it was just an internal code I think. The engine would literally be idling at 700RPM for 5 minutes then all of a sudden completely stall with no struggling etc. Sometimes it would do it withing a few minutes, sometimes it would idle fine for 10minutes then stall etc. I would have to turn ignition off and the back on to get the car to start again (if it did tbe stall sympton i couldnt restart it without restarting ecu) I have done a re calibration of the APS and TPS just now. The TPS still sits at around 8.4% when no foot on the throttle. Attached a new log but think that will show the same as the previous log. Should TPS Main be at 0% when no foot on accelerator pedal engine off. E throttle logging 2.pclr
  7. Ok thanks will try again. So if the error accumulator reaches a certain amount (how many roughly is this?) Would this cause the 'rpm limit' limp mode you say rather than an e throttle error and CEL? Cheers Brendon
  8. Hi there I have done a quick log with engine off. I have attached a file of my current tune/setup. Dont look at fuel numbers etc as on new injectors and a very base tune but that is not the issue. Was still doing the rpm limit stall on old tune (all other settings are the same). The quiet throttle option does stop the hum at key on engine off. Sorry dont know why log file shows different values, adjust it to ANV2, ANV3 for fps sub and main, and ANV5, ANV6 for tps sub and main and should show graph. E throttle Forum.pclr Log E Throttle Engine Off.llg
  9. Hi guys Running a 3sge beams with turbo setup Recently the car had started to stall on idle randomly every so often. Hooked the laptop up and when it happens car is idling at 700rpm nicely and then drops dead. Comes up 'rpm limit' which i dont quite understand as only rpm limit is my redline etc (doesnt activate CEL) Then a few days ago throttle shut down and came up 'e throttle error' and CEL came on. Found that the drive cog on the main butterfly shaft that the e throttle motor spins had stripped 2 teeth and seized. I have fitted a second hand throttle and it still wines when engine off, and still has the same rpm limit stall issue when idling. Calibrates fine etc. Is this second hand unit on the way out? Brendon
  10. Hi simon I have done the cam test as per your suggestion. On the exhaust cam test it comes back with a steady value of 51.1 degrees atdc. On my DI2 exhaust vvti setup the value in the box is currently 48degrees atdc. Inlet cam test measures steady value of 45.4 degrees atdc and under trigger 2 vvt value it it currently 44.5degrews atdc. So is the exhaust cam value slightly out? Would you recomend to change the exhaust value from 48 to 51.1? Would this make it track better etc. Thanks Brendon
  11. hey awesome thanks brad, so your when your exhaust target is 0, your actual position of the eexhaust cam reaches 0? I see its currently very close at around 0.8 etc and follows very close all the way and returns back to 0. My exhaust vvti cam actual position never gets lower than -4.8 ie it never gets back to 0. Do you happen to know your exhaust vvti solenoid duty cycle value when the requested position is 0? Mine shows as 20% when requested position is 0. Still waiting for my original log but getting the feeling my exhaust cam is somehow not returning to the 0 position.
  12. Hi rich, yes a few others believe it is all related, ie if my exhaust cam is not returning to the locked position or 0 at low down in the revs and kpa, then the exhaust cam is permanently retarded down low even though it should be off which affects my low down power and hence boost down low as well. Im also getting a bigger turbo, exhaust and manifold with external gate in a few months so trying to rule out a few more things before then. At that point the shop working on my car will check over the internals of the current turbo and do more leak down tests etc.
  13. Hi guys, does anyone have a log file from an altezza 3sgebeams running the dual vvti, maybe a dyno session or road run so incan have a look at your vvti cam requestes position vs actual positions? Still trying to get to the bottom of this. Also have some movement sideways on my wastegate actuator flapper so may be a leak ther(not sealing properly), but would like to check some others logs to see what others same spec motors are doing etc before pulling off the dump pipe to have a look at the rear housing. Waiting on my tuner to send my original dyno log as well. Thanks
  14. It starts alot better and idles more stable, drives perfect off boost but still tge same on boost. Almost feels like its missing the low down torque pull feeling it used to have. Will let my tuner know your feedback rich so thanks for that im leaning towards tubo just starting to wear out and loosing its puff. Was secind hand rebuilt when i got it 3 years ago so no idea of history or kms etc) The picture attached is fron the dyno day, the previous runs were my initial tune 3 years ago on 7psi spring with no boost solenoid, the last green line is current with boost solenoid to achieve the 9psi. See how much lower down it is initially, thats the loss of power feeling im meaning. Brendon
  15. Did a compression test once it had warmed up, ResulResults were good so was hapoy with that! Cyl 1- 180psi Cyl 2- 180psi Cyl 3 -185psi Cyl 4 -182 psi The old plugs had been in for around 3 years thinking about it, done 30000kms on them (5 track days!)and had brown rings above the threaded part on the porcelain almost like compression lekage etc, fitted new plugs so will see how that goes dunno why i overlooked those... Brendon
  • Create New...