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Brendon001

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Brendon001 last won the day on January 2 2017

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  1. I Have a modfied toyota altezza with the 3sge beams. forged bottom end running 9.0:1 comp and 272/270 cams retaining vvti. I had converted the oem partial drive by wire throttle to full cable throttle hypertune throttle and a 2 wire ford idle valve but had a horrible time with stalling issues. Have replaced this with a bosch 3 wire idle valve and configured it. Car has been tuned on a hub dyno by a tuner who set up all the idle settings and idle igniton etc. the issue im having is coming to a stop at traffic lights or pulling into a park etc on overrun off throttle, let the revs get down to around 2000rpm and put the clutch in the engine will sometimes freefall past idle and stall. sometimes it will catch fine and hold 950rpm stable idle. Im not sure what else could be wrong or anything obvious on the tune or log files. I have uploaded my current tune and a log file where the car stalls 3 times, Log file: Starts car at 11 seconds, almost stalls at 3.36, stalls at 12.38 and I can clutch kick it back to running in 1st gear, stalls at 23.54. This was an internal log file to the ecu I had set up, not direct onto a laptop so hopfully have enough parameters logged. If someone could overlay it onto my tune file and have a look if anything is obvious. Thanks Brendon https://www.dropbox.com/s/z9inw0jo2m1go9u/330rwkw Tune.pclr?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/wrr0ilbgc6bgjsu/Test Drive stalling issue.llg?dl=0
  2. Anyone have ideas on my last post re speedo jumping from 0kph to 13kph?
  3. Update; Have joined the existing r154 gearbox speed sensor straight through to DI3 input and got that reading correctly in the ECU based off GPS speed. Then i have wired and configured an AUX out to the speedo orginal input on the cluster. Set up key sweep and max HZ based of what the key sweep gets to (180kph) and now have a multiplier of 0.87 and the speedo is reading correct at all speeds. Final question is at very slow speeds (1-13kph) my gauge and electeonic gauge jump from 0kph to 13kph (any speed under that shows 13kph until i stop and goes 0kph.). Is this something to do with the offset Hz value? Current set at 0 and tried small Hz values (5,10 etc) but makes the problem worse( goes from 13kph minimum to 20kph minimum etc) Is it possible to put negative Hz numbers here and then redo the multiplier?? Almost sorted! Brendon
  4. So tried this now have no speed at all. Put a spare pin in the abs module plug as per the instructions and cut the existing speed input to the cluster. Cant seem to get a signal from that ABS pin that is stated. Wondering if its differnet between the is300 US LHD models and ours altezza RHD. Trying to find a pin out for the auto altezza abs module if you know of one
  5. That makes sense as to why my pinout diagram for the cluster specifically references the speed input as 6MT etc. That seems like an easier way to sort it. Am i correct in saying that the speedo would not be out again if my gearing changed or my final drive changed as it would then be off the actual wheel speed. I would take it that rim and tyre size would still affect it slightly.
  6. Hi Thanks for the reply. That confirms why i cant get i working on the dash correctly... i think i will just take the speed input into the dash and the speed out to the ecu and join together to get the VSS straight to the ecu. Then just use a spare aux out on the ecu to send back to the old VSS input on the dash. That way hopefully would work and only need one wire from the ECU to the dash then i presume once i configure the digital input i can configure the output to the dash etc. Cheers!
  7. Hi Guys Just trying to work out how to get my speedo accurate (have facelift cluster with needle gauge and digital gauge). It was running fine same as gps speed with the factory j160 6spd setup but have now swapped to a r154 gearbox 5spd with jzx110 3 wire speed sensor. The speed sensor works fine and have been able to adjust the digital input frequency up to around 305hZ from 244hZ on DI3 and this now shows the same speed in the link ECU as a gps speed. However my dash still is out, ie at 50kph ecu speed dash shows around 58-60kph and at 100kph ecu speed dash shows around 115kph. The speedo out option appears on the ecu appears to be not used/ ever configured from factory so wondering if anyone knew if the speed gets sent via Can bean network etc to the dash or how I can fix this. Or does anyone know if the speedo signal goes to the dash and then out to the ECU last. SXe10 manual 3sge. Thanks Brendon
  8. Hi timmy. Tried the above suggestion and would work with increased values when IAT sensor was around 50-60 degrees but then when at 90degrees ECT and normal 20degrees IAT engine would flood and foul plugs. Ended up leaving those settings and doing similiar to the HP academy 350z tune and put positive values in the 0%TPS row from 40degrees to 80degrees IAT on the IAT compensation table, starts perfect any temperature now and even when the sensor heat soaks after 10-30 minutes the positive values give the extra fuel required
  9. Hi Adam and Timmy, have added another question regarding warm start issue if you could make any suggestions! Thanks Brendon
  10. Thanks guys pretty much sorted now! Updated the firmware, raised the idle ignition rmp lockout, raised the idle ignition value to 16 at 0 error and adjusted all the upper and lower error rpm columns, and updates the overrun rpm ect activation table at the warm temperatures. This gave the idle setup more chance to catch the rpm and now it will drop to around 650-700rpm, raise to around 1000 then settle to idle pretty quickly with no bouncing. Just need to fine tune the idle dc settings on the solenoid and will be sorted! Thanks Brendon
  11. Brendon001

    Warm start issue

    Hi guys Edit: I am also having another issue where once warm/hot the car will not start if i leave it for more than a few minutes. Starts and restarts cold and warm every time if not left for long (when warm can turn it off and restart repeatedly) but when up to 90degrees ect and left to heat soak when the IAT is around 40-60 degrees the car will just crank continuously but not start. As soon as the IAT cools down to 20degrees it starts fine with no throttle. If i hold 100% throttle it will rumble into life after 10 seconds or so. Do i need adjustments to my warm crank enrichment and add or remove fuel? Or my IAT compensation table at the 40-60 degree range at 0% TPS? (Does the IAT compenstaion table affect starting fuel as not rpm based?)Not sure if i need to add or remove i fuel as it will not burp or anything when this hot and part throttle doesnt help, and wideband only up after 30 seconds so not much help. How do my current crank enrichment and IAT comp tables look? Thanks I have been playing around with my idle settings over the last few days. I have gotten the warm up and cold start sorted and once the car gets into idle the idle is stable at 14.7AFR and my target of 950RPM when warm. The car has also been dyno tuned by my tuner in regards to the rest of the ecu. It is on my toyota altezza with 9.0:1 compression, stock cams just uprated valve springs. It is running a hypertune manual throttle body with a 2 wire NZefi idle control valve(set at 120Hz as this is what was recomended on the idle valve info sheet)(is this correct as all link and others say 200-300Hz). With the idle control turned off it idles around 500-600rpm on the throttle plate but will stall eventually if the throttle is stabbed and the rpms are not controlled coming back down. The problem I am having is every so often when coming to a stop clutch in at traffic lights etc the rpm will drop quickly and sometimes head to around 500-600rpm, before shooting up to 1500rpm and then does this over a few times before finally settling into idle, or sometimes it will not settle and oscillate between the low and high rpms and I need to give it tiny throttle input to settle it. I have also set up the idle ignition control. The log attached the drive actually went pretty well except the last few stops right at the end where the 600rpm happens (gets close to stalling but never does). Is someone able to look over my tune and give me their thoughts on my settings? I had noticed the ignition values on the main table jump around from 18-12-16 around the idle zone if that may not be helping) but thinking it may be to do with my idle settings. Fan step, AC and startup etc are all ok. Ideally I would like the rpms to drop and then hold above the RPM target and then slowly come down to it, rather than dropping below/through the rpm idle range it and having to catch the stall and bounce up and then drop again. Note running an innovate wideband that comes online 30 seconds after car is started Base fuel pressure was set at 43.5psi by tuner on my 1050X ID injectors. I also noticed that the injector size does not say 1060cc at 43.5psi like the data sheet said that came with all the other injector values (currently reads 900cc at rated fuel pressure?) Thanks Brendon 300kW Cold start, Idle sorted final.pclr log testing idle coming to a stop.llg
  12. Sorry attached is the log. Still seems to be the same? The FPS calibrates fine every time. The TPS sometimes comes up Error 16:cannot reach target 98% but sometimes calibrates and sets ok. Any thoughts? Thanks Brendon E throttle with calibrated sensors.llg
  13. Ok thanks for the info. I will keep an eye out on the accumulator. That error scenario seems slightly different to mine however as if it applies the 1800RPM limit it shouldnt stall out the engine?. When the rpm limit came up on the logging during dyno day it did not light a CEL it was just an internal code I think. The engine would literally be idling at 700RPM for 5 minutes then all of a sudden completely stall with no struggling etc. Sometimes it would do it withing a few minutes, sometimes it would idle fine for 10minutes then stall etc. I would have to turn ignition off and the back on to get the car to start again (if it did tbe stall sympton i couldnt restart it without restarting ecu) I have done a re calibration of the APS and TPS just now. The TPS still sits at around 8.4% when no foot on the throttle. Attached a new log but think that will show the same as the previous log. Should TPS Main be at 0% when no foot on accelerator pedal engine off. E throttle logging 2.pclr
  14. Ok thanks will try again. So if the error accumulator reaches a certain amount (how many roughly is this?) Would this cause the 'rpm limit' limp mode you say rather than an e throttle error and CEL? Cheers Brendon
  15. Hi there I have done a quick log with engine off. I have attached a file of my current tune/setup. Dont look at fuel numbers etc as on new injectors and a very base tune but that is not the issue. Was still doing the rpm limit stall on old tune (all other settings are the same). The quiet throttle option does stop the hum at key on engine off. Sorry dont know why log file shows different values, adjust it to ANV2, ANV3 for fps sub and main, and ANV5, ANV6 for tps sub and main and should show graph. E throttle Forum.pclr Log E Throttle Engine Off.llg
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