Brendon001

I Have a modfied toyota altezza with the 3sge beams. forged bottom end running 9.0:1 comp and 272/270 cams retaining vvti. I had converted the oem partial drive by wire throttle to full cable throttle hypertune throttle and a 2 wire ford idle valve but had a horrible time with stalling issues. Have replaced this with a bosch 3 wire idle valve and configured it. Car has been tuned on a hub dyno by a tuner who set up all the idle settings and idle igniton etc. the issue im having is coming to a stop at traffic lights or pulling into a park etc on overrun off throttle, let the revs get down to around 2000rpm and put the clutch in the engine will sometimes freefall past idle and stall. sometimes it will catch fine and hold 950rpm stable idle. Im not sure what else could be wrong or anything obvious on the tune or log files. I have uploaded my current tune and a log file where the car stalls 3 times, Log file: Starts car at 11 seconds, almost stalls at 3.36, stalls at 12.38 and I can clutch kick it back to running in 1st gear, stalls at 23.54. This was an internal log file to the ecu I had set up, not direct onto a laptop so hopfully have enough parameters logged. If someone could overlay it onto my tune file and have a look if anything is obvious. Thanks Brendon https://www.dropbox.com/s/z9inw0jo2m1go9u/330rwkw Tune.pclr?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/wrr0ilbgc6bgjsu/Test Drive stalling issue.llg?dl=0

Anyone have ideas on my last post re speedo jumping from 0kph to 13kph?

Update; Have joined the existing r154 gearbox speed sensor straight through to DI3 input and got that reading correctly in the ECU based off GPS speed. Then i have wired and configured an AUX out to the speedo orginal input on the cluster. Set up key sweep and max HZ based of what the key sweep gets to (180kph) and now have a multiplier of 0.87 and the speedo is reading correct at all speeds. Final question is at very slow speeds (1-13kph) my gauge and electeonic gauge jump from 0kph to 13kph (any speed under that shows 13kph until i stop and goes 0kph.). Is this something to do with the offset Hz value? Current set at 0 and tried small Hz values (5,10 etc) but makes the problem worse( goes from 13kph minimum to 20kph minimum etc) Is it possible to put negative Hz numbers here and then redo the multiplier?? Almost sorted! Brendon

So tried this now have no speed at all. Put a spare pin in the abs module plug as per the instructions and cut the existing speed input to the cluster. Cant seem to get a signal from that ABS pin that is stated. Wondering if its differnet between the is300 US LHD models and ours altezza RHD. Trying to find a pin out for the auto altezza abs module if you know of one

That makes sense as to why my pinout diagram for the cluster specifically references the speed input as 6MT etc. That seems like an easier way to sort it. Am i correct in saying that the speedo would not be out again if my gearing changed or my final drive changed as it would then be off the actual wheel speed. I would take it that rim and tyre size would still affect it slightly.

Hi Thanks for the reply. That confirms why i cant get i working on the dash correctly... i think i will just take the speed input into the dash and the speed out to the ecu and join together to get the VSS straight to the ecu. Then just use a spare aux out on the ecu to send back to the old VSS input on the dash. That way hopefully would work and only need one wire from the ECU to the dash then i presume once i configure the digital input i can configure the output to the dash etc. Cheers!

Hi Guys Just trying to work out how to get my speedo accurate (have facelift cluster with needle gauge and digital gauge). It was running fine same as gps speed with the factory j160 6spd setup but have now swapped to a r154 gearbox 5spd with jzx110 3 wire speed sensor. The speed sensor works fine and have been able to adjust the digital input frequency up to around 305hZ from 244hZ on DI3 and this now shows the same speed in the link ECU as a gps speed. However my dash still is out, ie at 50kph ecu speed dash shows around 58-60kph and at 100kph ecu speed dash shows around 115kph. The speedo out option appears on the ecu appears to be not used/ ever configured from factory so wondering if anyone knew if the speed gets sent via Can bean network etc to the dash or how I can fix this. Or does anyone know if the speedo signal goes to the dash and then out to the ECU last. SXe10 manual 3sge. Thanks Brendon

Hi timmy. Tried the above suggestion and would work with increased values when IAT sensor was around 50-60 degrees but then when at 90degrees ECT and normal 20degrees IAT engine would flood and foul plugs. Ended up leaving those settings and doing similiar to the HP academy 350z tune and put positive values in the 0%TPS row from 40degrees to 80degrees IAT on the IAT compensation table, starts perfect any temperature now and even when the sensor heat soaks after 10-30 minutes the positive values give the extra fuel required

Hi Adam and Timmy, have added another question regarding warm start issue if you could make any suggestions! Thanks Brendon

Thanks guys pretty much sorted now! Updated the firmware, raised the idle ignition rmp lockout, raised the idle ignition value to 16 at 0 error and adjusted all the upper and lower error rpm columns, and updates the overrun rpm ect activation table at the warm temperatures. This gave the idle setup more chance to catch the rpm and now it will drop to around 650-700rpm, raise to around 1000 then settle to idle pretty quickly with no bouncing. Just need to fine tune the idle dc settings on the solenoid and will be sorted! Thanks Brendon

Hi guys Edit: I am also having another issue where once warm/hot the car will not start if i leave it for more than a few minutes. Starts and restarts cold and warm every time if not left for long (when warm can turn it off and restart repeatedly) but when up to 90degrees ect and left to heat soak when the IAT is around 40-60 degrees the car will just crank continuously but not start. As soon as the IAT cools down to 20degrees it starts fine with no throttle. If i hold 100% throttle it will rumble into life after 10 seconds or so. Do i need adjustments to my warm crank enrichment and add or remove fuel? Or my IAT compensation table at the 40-60 degree range at 0% TPS? (Does the IAT compenstaion table affect starting fuel as not rpm based?)Not sure if i need to add or remove i fuel as it will not burp or anything when this hot and part throttle doesnt help, and wideband only up after 30 seconds so not much help. How do my current crank enrichment and IAT comp tables look? Thanks I have been playing around with my idle settings over the last few days. I have gotten the warm up and cold start sorted and once the car gets into idle the idle is stable at 14.7AFR and my target of 950RPM when warm. The car has also been dyno tuned by my tuner in regards to the rest of the ecu. It is on my toyota altezza with 9.0:1 compression, stock cams just uprated valve springs. It is running a hypertune manual throttle body with a 2 wire NZefi idle control valve(set at 120Hz as this is what was recomended on the idle valve info sheet)(is this correct as all link and others say 200-300Hz). With the idle control turned off it idles around 500-600rpm on the throttle plate but will stall eventually if the throttle is stabbed and the rpms are not controlled coming back down. The problem I am having is every so often when coming to a stop clutch in at traffic lights etc the rpm will drop quickly and sometimes head to around 500-600rpm, before shooting up to 1500rpm and then does this over a few times before finally settling into idle, or sometimes it will not settle and oscillate between the low and high rpms and I need to give it tiny throttle input to settle it. I have also set up the idle ignition control. The log attached the drive actually went pretty well except the last few stops right at the end where the 600rpm happens (gets close to stalling but never does). Is someone able to look over my tune and give me their thoughts on my settings? I had noticed the ignition values on the main table jump around from 18-12-16 around the idle zone if that may not be helping) but thinking it may be to do with my idle settings. Fan step, AC and startup etc are all ok. Ideally I would like the rpms to drop and then hold above the RPM target and then slowly come down to it, rather than dropping below/through the rpm idle range it and having to catch the stall and bounce up and then drop again. Note running an innovate wideband that comes online 30 seconds after car is started Base fuel pressure was set at 43.5psi by tuner on my 1050X ID injectors. I also noticed that the injector size does not say 1060cc at 43.5psi like the data sheet said that came with all the other injector values (currently reads 900cc at rated fuel pressure?) Thanks Brendon 300kW Cold start, Idle sorted final.pclr log testing idle coming to a stop.llg

Sorry attached is the log. Still seems to be the same? The FPS calibrates fine every time. The TPS sometimes comes up Error 16:cannot reach target 98% but sometimes calibrates and sets ok. Any thoughts? Thanks Brendon E throttle with calibrated sensors.llg

Ok thanks for the info. I will keep an eye out on the accumulator. That error scenario seems slightly different to mine however as if it applies the 1800RPM limit it shouldnt stall out the engine?. When the rpm limit came up on the logging during dyno day it did not light a CEL it was just an internal code I think. The engine would literally be idling at 700RPM for 5 minutes then all of a sudden completely stall with no struggling etc. Sometimes it would do it withing a few minutes, sometimes it would idle fine for 10minutes then stall etc. I would have to turn ignition off and the back on to get the car to start again (if it did tbe stall sympton i couldnt restart it without restarting ecu) I have done a re calibration of the APS and TPS just now. The TPS still sits at around 8.4% when no foot on the throttle. Attached a new log but think that will show the same as the previous log. Should TPS Main be at 0% when no foot on accelerator pedal engine off. E throttle logging 2.pclr

Ok thanks will try again. So if the error accumulator reaches a certain amount (how many roughly is this?) Would this cause the 'rpm limit' limp mode you say rather than an e throttle error and CEL? Cheers Brendon

Hi there I have done a quick log with engine off. I have attached a file of my current tune/setup. Dont look at fuel numbers etc as on new injectors and a very base tune but that is not the issue. Was still doing the rpm limit stall on old tune (all other settings are the same). The quiet throttle option does stop the hum at key on engine off. Sorry dont know why log file shows different values, adjust it to ANV2, ANV3 for fps sub and main, and ANV5, ANV6 for tps sub and main and should show graph. E throttle Forum.pclr Log E Throttle Engine Off.llg

Hi guys Running a 3sge beams with turbo setup Recently the car had started to stall on idle randomly every so often. Hooked the laptop up and when it happens car is idling at 700rpm nicely and then drops dead. Comes up 'rpm limit' which i dont quite understand as only rpm limit is my redline etc (doesnt activate CEL) Then a few days ago throttle shut down and came up 'e throttle error' and CEL came on. Found that the drive cog on the main butterfly shaft that the e throttle motor spins had stripped 2 teeth and seized. I have fitted a second hand throttle and it still wines when engine off, and still has the same rpm limit stall issue when idling. Calibrates fine etc. Is this second hand unit on the way out? Brendon

Hi simon I have done the cam test as per your suggestion. On the exhaust cam test it comes back with a steady value of 51.1 degrees atdc. On my DI2 exhaust vvti setup the value in the box is currently 48degrees atdc. Inlet cam test measures steady value of 45.4 degrees atdc and under trigger 2 vvt value it it currently 44.5degrews atdc. So is the exhaust cam value slightly out? Would you recomend to change the exhaust value from 48 to 51.1? Would this make it track better etc. Thanks Brendon

hey awesome thanks brad, so your when your exhaust target is 0, your actual position of the eexhaust cam reaches 0? I see its currently very close at around 0.8 etc and follows very close all the way and returns back to 0. My exhaust vvti cam actual position never gets lower than -4.8 ie it never gets back to 0. Do you happen to know your exhaust vvti solenoid duty cycle value when the requested position is 0? Mine shows as 20% when requested position is 0. Still waiting for my original log but getting the feeling my exhaust cam is somehow not returning to the 0 position.

Hi rich, yes a few others believe it is all related, ie if my exhaust cam is not returning to the locked position or 0 at low down in the revs and kpa, then the exhaust cam is permanently retarded down low even though it should be off which affects my low down power and hence boost down low as well. Im also getting a bigger turbo, exhaust and manifold with external gate in a few months so trying to rule out a few more things before then. At that point the shop working on my car will check over the internals of the current turbo and do more leak down tests etc.

Hi guys, does anyone have a log file from an altezza 3sgebeams running the dual vvti, maybe a dyno session or road run so incan have a look at your vvti cam requestes position vs actual positions? Still trying to get to the bottom of this. Also have some movement sideways on my wastegate actuator flapper so may be a leak ther(not sealing properly), but would like to check some others logs to see what others same spec motors are doing etc before pulling off the dump pipe to have a look at the rear housing. Waiting on my tuner to send my original dyno log as well. Thanks

It starts alot better and idles more stable, drives perfect off boost but still tge same on boost. Almost feels like its missing the low down torque pull feeling it used to have. Will let my tuner know your feedback rich so thanks for that im leaning towards tubo just starting to wear out and loosing its puff. Was secind hand rebuilt when i got it 3 years ago so no idea of history or kms etc) The picture attached is fron the dyno day, the previous runs were my initial tune 3 years ago on 7psi spring with no boost solenoid, the last green line is current with boost solenoid to achieve the 9psi. See how much lower down it is initially, thats the loss of power feeling im meaning. Brendon

Did a compression test once it had warmed up, ResulResults were good so was hapoy with that! Cyl 1- 180psi Cyl 2- 180psi Cyl 3 -185psi Cyl 4 -182 psi The old plugs had been in for around 3 years thinking about it, done 30000kms on them (5 track days!)and had brown rings above the threaded part on the porcelain almost like compression lekage etc, fitted new plugs so will see how that goes dunno why i overlooked those... Brendon

Hi guys thanks for the info. I will do the plugs and compression test first to see how it goes. I have a new air filter and have cleaned the intake etc when i was fixing some small boost leaks around te plenum. The vvti solenoids have been replaced as well as the exhaust cam sensor so these are fine now. Also i change oil every 5000kms so the engine internally should be clean, always comes out a tad off golden. Engine has done 150000kms, turboed at 120000kms. Thanks for the input for the vvti settings and i see what you mean about the vvti table and kpa etc. Dont want to change any settings just yet as it was running fine on this before. So trying to get back to how it was etc. Brendon

Hi guys So I have an altezza with the 3sge beams, pnp g4 altezza link ecu and greddy tdo4 turbo kit. Was currently running on a turbosmart wastegate actuator with 7psi spring, tuned at 9.3psi for the last 3 years with no issues. (Was never sure how it managed this with no boost control on a 7psi spring but worked perfect) On my last track day the car suddenly dropped to 7psi boost and would not boost higher and felt sluggish. I initially though boost leak etc. Found a few and now passes boost leak test perfect. Fitted a new actuator spring and wired in a link boost solenoid. My tuner on the hub dyno however could not get the car to get up to its previous 172rwkw. even using the new boost solenoid, it could make 9.2psi but has lost around 20rwkw. he then noticed that the car wasnt responding much to timing changes where some runs would start off good and then drop out, or some runs would just not start off good at all even with no changes to the ecu. He was then thinking maybe sensors or vvti solenoids so I have changed all of these and still no change. Could it be a sign the turbo is just wearing out or something to do with my vvti system? turbo has been on for 3 years with around 5 track days and weekend driving 30,000kms. I have attached my tune file and a log file for a recent test drive logging the intake and exhaust cam positions and targets and solenoid duty cylces. Also a last question is the DI2 value (where the exhaust cam sensor is wired to) never illuminate green or says on when driving, just stays unlit and OFF. (ie the power steering DI1 will illuminate green and change to ON when turning). I have checked all sensor have ground and continuity back to the ecu input pins, and all 3 (crank, intake and exhaust cam sensors all have readings of 1.02 k ohms).Thanks Thanks Brendon Brendon original tune 5.0.3 01-10-16 (after launch control and cold tune start fixed) with boost solenoid settings.pclr vvt log drive.llg

Hi dave, pulled plenum off tonight and noticed a small line between the outside of the rubber and the plenum sections on runners two and tgree like it had a tiny leak, so I put sealant around all 4 runner holes, reinstalled the plenum and throttle body, refit all vac lines and it started perfect let it warm up on its own and it dropped down to 1100rpm and idled perfevt like it used to. So I believe the problem has been solved! ::D still cannot believe that it was a leak as all info pointed to a settings probelm until I tried the idle off and ethrottle off tonight which resulted in no change. So thanks to you guys I have learnt a lot about the software and my setup. Can never be too careful I guess.. as I followrd the toyota manual to a t and it specifically said no gasket was required on that particular part due to rubber interface.. so there ya go Will still be taking car to tuner on weekend to get cold start sorted a bit better, and also getting launch control setup as well, have jist obtained an expansion cable to add more inputs and outputs Will be sure to ask for help if I get stuck in the future! Brendon