mikegt4dude

Yep Multi fuel and traction control will be coming 

I think you have too high expectations of what traction control might do especially on a 4wd application.....unless it was some extremely sophisticated setup, which a Link ecu isnt going to offer, or indeed most ecu's.
 
As said, straight line stuff is fairly easy, but the impact TC can have on the driving dynamics...or if you get it wrong, can make them horrible to drive and in some cases unsafe and unpredictable.
Much the same way many people really dislike OEM style traction control, which are very well developed.
 
But yes, you need data, and lots of it. Wheel speeds, g forces, steering angles, brake inputs etc to all get a picture of how the driver handles the car and what action might need taken.
 
Although those slicks sound huge, even 8" wide Avon's are enough to take a 4wd car onto two wheels around some corners.
 

Usually there is good info in the "test calculator" to show how the parameter is scaled/stored but it looks like the detail for those parameters is missing.  Usually we use unsigned integers with an offset to allow for negative values, so this is probably what you are seeing.  I suspect it will be something like a 3G offset, so the accel can read from -3G to +3G.  I will see if I can get some more detail for you tomorrow.  

Yup you can now trim your fuel back to 0.86 lambda now.
 
Yup David that cold ignition advance table also had a good effect
 
But mostly that injection timing, I couldn't get my car up that hill in that driveway at the old house until around 40c otherwise haha

Hi, These are my first impressions too, this table here helped clear it up for me.
credit to David V for his testing and ideas.

Hi Cozcorners
There is many options, it depends on your requirement.
Yes setting Log Trigger to rpm > 50  would work fine. You there using 800 rpm ????
My option is for my race car.  So if speed > 25kph start logging until ignition is turn off.   Allows the race engine to warmup and NOT record data during warmup, therefore saving memory to allow fast & many data points recording during the race.
 
Possible explanation for your NOT logging, there MAY be a limit in the firmware on the number of recording starts. So once you start recording keep it active until the end. Only one start.
 
Cheers
Andy

Nah, I dont know where that 20-30mm "spec" came from either (may actually be a minimum I suspect), but I have personally used (and also seen it on many professional builds) the common 2 core twisted M22759

I would suggest the content sensor as it will compensate for varying ethanol contents.  Pump E85 is not always 85%, it can be all over the place.

Allright, thank you. From now on I will try saving on a local folder and see if the problem goes away

I assume the switch is to ground so when on the ground is provided to the ECU and to the lamp?
If this is the case the lamp can act as the pullup and the internal Di pullup can be turned off.
 
 

I have a Lenovo Yoga I use for logging while on the road.  If I lay it down flat, Windows tries to switch to Tablet Mode, which causes PCLink to crash.  Also, it seems returning from Tablet Mode to Laptop Mode causes it to crash usually too.  This is pretty disruptive!
 
As a mitigation, could we get a periodic log file auto-save so I only lose the last, say, 1 minute of logs when PCLink crashes?

I'm getting the same behavior, make a new XY Plot and it works great, it works even if I set it up exactly the same as the broken one.
Also, interestingly, if I copy-pasta the 'broken' XY Plot, the new one is also broken, which would suggest an XY Plot setting is upset somewhere (like the X axis range)

I've added it to the list to be investigated, thanks for your patience.

All 5v and gnd out pins are internally connected so you are free to mix and match

Hi Hexdmy,
what you are referring to I have a work around that most people use.
I use the Idle Ignition Table to overcome these issues.
With setting up the base throttle blade air gap and base chosen idle timing,i adjust my setup to the point of being able to totally do away with idle controllers completely.
There are many different processes to this but it is very simple.
I tune a lot of twin turbo Big Bloch Chev Race boats, these things run approx. 6" Hg at idle,
Through my setup process without any idle speed controllers, we can start these engines dead cold and have beautiful ide and pull the trans into low or second gear, (HIGHLY MODIFIED TURBO 400'S converted to 2 speed, NO TORQUE CONVERTORS, Just a direct drive plate setup.
Without any RPM change indicated by the MoTeC DASH or by feel or ear.
However your suggestions are fine, but sometimes these types of requests will not be prioritised due to the low volume of requests.
However all requests are governed by LINK themselves.
Regards
Dave.
 

I ran a few trackdays at Hampton Downs with a fairly conservative tune as I didnt have knock sensing working at the time.
Looking at the results of both the MAF sensor and the MAP sensor, concluded that after 6000rpm my intake was causing a restriction for the engine.
As I was staying on 101KPA right to that point, and then it slowly tapers off. MAF values show that air intake was still increasing steadily to 8000rpm, but less than it could be.
I was looking at the intake piping thinking that perhaps I could go to a 4" pipe or something. But then figured... I dont need the MAF anymore, so it's not necessary to maintain any sized pipe.
So I thought it's a good time to head to solidworks and draw up the factory throttle body to its exact dimensions and some of the piping. Then create a pressure drop at the rear of the throttle body until I had a mass flow rate slightly above what my MAF sensor was showing me (About 170 grams/sec at 7000rpm)
Then I mucked around with a few different designs of bigger pipes or whatever, but it seemed the least restrictive option was a big bellmouth on the throttle body in a big enclosure with a panel filter on the side. Wtih the goal of maintaining atmospheric pressure right to the bellmouth.
So went back and forth between solidworks and some Cardboard Aided Design to come up with a prototype sort of shape which I then had lasercut.
Still a work in progress. However if I end up needing more fuel at WOT and the pressure drop at high rpm decreases then it should be some indication that it's doing its job.

 
The main thing towards avoiding any pressure drop was just keeping cross sectional area huge all of the way. Going to a 3" or 4" inlet at any point and it's back to an instant pressure drop.



As stupid as it sounds, the cardboard that they ship big flat panel TVs in is a really good material for mocking things up. It's really thick and obviously pretty easy to manipulate and then measure to put back into CAD drawings.
Plenty available for free by raiding the bins out back of Noel Leeming or where ever.

Just need to figure out how to mount it all now, and then start making the second half of the box which goes down through the gaurd to get some fresh air from out front.