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Arctic Cat 920

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  1. This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for your help.
  2. Hi Everyone, I'm using the Vi-pec V44 ECU on my Arctic Cat 2017 M8000 with a Dakota Performance 920 Big Bore and a Blow turbo kit. It works great and freaking rocks. I also have a next stage gauge re-flash which allows me to display AFR and Boost pressure on the stock gauge and it also lets me pull up information like engine coolant temperature,intake air temp, and all kinds of other stuff. It works great with a stock ECU but its not communicating properly with the Vi-pec ECU so I talked with Stefan at Next Stage Gauge and he has a little CAN box that is very easy to install and will solve all of my problems. The only thing is I have to wire into the Can Hi and Can low pins of the ECU. Stefan knows where these are on the Arctic Cat 1100 ECU but not for the 800. When I pull up the pin outs for the Arctic Cat 800 ecu in the help section it just says this page cannot be displayed. If anyone knows where I can find some information on where the CAN high and CAN low pins are on the Arctic Cat ECU I could use some help. Thanks,
  3. On the dyno today I have the nitrous working although I destroyed a motor because of a stupid mistake I made. An arming switch will be added tomorrow. But, I did make a bunch of test passes and everything working as far as triggering maps and using the ECU to trigger the nitrous. We are making big horsepower and we are making a lot of head way on our tune so everything is going quite well overall. But everything is still backward as far as the conditions that Aux 8 is concerned. I can't figure this out. Aux 8 only grounds out when I set the conditions I set it to ground at LESS THAN 7900 RPM, LESS THAN 90%TPS, and LESS THAN 400 PSI of nitrous. Oh, and the reason I destroyed a motor today is because the keyed power source I was talking about is 12VDC that comes directly from the stator on the end of the crankshaft so it is AC until it goes through a regulator/rectifier device that I guess has a capacitor in it. So as you physically pull the motor over with the rope you power up a capacitor that triggers the nitrous relay and the ecu is still grounding out that relay and that releases a short shot of nitrous into the motor before the ecu can stop it. The bang that a nitrous backfire creates cannot be underestimated. Luckily I was wearing hearing protection but the reeds, throttle bodies, and the entire motor was shot. Which is why there will be an arming switch inline tomorrow. Dave, thanks again for your all of your help but where do I find Ign drive 3 on my map? I looked through it and I'm not sure If I missed something or if there is something going on here. Oh, and I updated the firmware and I still have the same problems as before. Thanks for noticing that though.
  4. Wow, I didn't realize that my firmware wasn't up to date I will do that first thing tomorrow thanks for catching that. Aux 4 is for reverse. 2 stroke motors can operate with either clockwise or counter clockwise direction since there is no cam chain or transmission other than the CVT which is a belt drive and functions on physics that don't care about direction. So when you hit Aux op 4 it brings the motor back to a dead stop and then fires the charge in the cylinder at just the right time to make the crank rotate backwards until it idles at 1600 rpm again at which point you can engage the clutches at 4000 RPM by pressing the throttle and make the sled go backward. This tiny bit of software saves about 26 pounds of hardware that used to do the same thing. Doesn't sound like much but on a sled that only weighs 450 pounds that is kind of a big deal. Not sure on Aux 5 but I think it lights up an over heat light on the dash. 2 smokes like to run at 50 C so that's a guess until i can get to my tuning lap top tomorrow. Once again thanks for your interest Dave I really appreciate the the help!!!
  5. That would be great Scott thanks for your help. Thanks to everyone who replied I'm still having trouble figuring out why this thing won't drive to ground when I want. I attached a copy of the map I was originally using before I decided to make everything backwards just to get by. 16 BB 920 nitrous corrections 12-16-15.pcl
  6. Snowmobiles use a continuosly variable transmission which gets the motor to peak rpm as quickly as possible and then holds it there. Peak for this sled is 8100 RPM so it goes from idle to 8100 in about 0.3 seconds and then holds there until you run out of gearing or you let off of the throttle. 7900 is a good place to start because before that there are all kinds of load variables that come with CVT clutch systems and the powervalves are still opening until about 7500 rpm. 400 psi is just an arbitrary number I picked out since there is no arming switch. Once the sensor sees that the bottle is opened (400 psi) it can arm the system and is ready to use. The bottle pressure gauge shows 800 psi when the exhaust is cold and 950-1000 when its hot. I did change my Virtual output to activate my fuel and ign maps when Aux output 8 is turned off. This is is because for whatever reason when I had the conditions set like they were in my first post the ecu would drive Aux 8 to ground even when it was at 0 % tps, 1600 RPM, and 0 PSI. By changing all of these settings to the opposite of what I actually wanted (using less then instead of greater then) the ecu would drive the pin to ground when it was over 7900 RPM, over 90% TPS, and over 400 PSI. Still don't know why this is happening but it works for now. So when the Aux 8 is technically turning off it is actually turning on. which is why I used Virtual Output to trigger the fuel and ign tables only when Aux 8 is off. Very messy way to do it but it works until I can figure out what is going on here. Good point about the outputs being driven to ground I never thought of that. But the relay is on a keyed power source so even if the ecu wanted to ground it out it wouldn't matter. The problem I'm still struggling with is why the ECU won't ground Aux 8 when it should according to what I can figure out. Instead I have to make everything go completely backwards. Should I be using a different setting other then GP output?
  7. My relay is a 5 pin changeover relay with the standard 30, 85, 86, 87, and 87a pins. The aux output is wired to 85, the 12v keyed power source is wired to 86, the power from the external battery is on 30, and the power going to the nitrous solenoid is on the 87 pin. There is no continuity from the 30 to the 87 pin when I turn the sled off but once its started it has continuity even though its idling and my conditions aren't met. thanks for the info about watching it in runtime values I never thought of that. Update: Just to try something I set all of my conditions backward. so less than 7900 rpm, less then 90% tps, and less then 400 psi bottle pressure. Then I used a virtual output to to trigger the maps when Aux 8 was off. Suddenly it seems to work. We're going to try some dyno tests today and see what happens. New settings are down below. Don't pay attention to the fuel and ignition settings they are all off.
  8. I apologize in advance for the length of this post but any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm using a V44 Vi-pec ecu on an Arctic Cat 800 snowmobile with a 920 big bore. ECU is working great but now I'm adding nitrous to the sled and I'm having a problem using an aux output to activate the nitrous solenoid. the first attachment is a crude diagram of how I have it wired. and the second attachment is a screenshot of my Aux output 8 settings. I'm using a Honeywell MLH 02K PSB 06A pressure sensor which is just a 0-5 volt 1-2000 PSI sensor. From everything I've read I wired this correctly and my tables are right. But when I start the sled and arm the nitrous by connecting the external battery to the relay it immediately triggers the nitrous solenoid and sprays the motor even though its idling and the TPS is at 0%. From what I understand the ECU shouldn't drive the Aux output 8 pin to ground and trigger the system until my conditions are met right? So far I've replaced the nitrous solenoid, replaced the relay, checked my wiring repeatedly and even replaced the ecu (I have spares of all of them on the shelf) and no change. I've pretty much got it nailed down to a mistake in the maps I'm using or the ecu. Some additional information I should mention, this sled has a batteryless EFI system hence the external battery that is connected to nothing except the relay and a chassis ground. The keyed power source is a rectified and regulated 12 volt DC accesory wire that is only powered up when the sled is running. It also has a 5 Amp limit which is why I have to use the external battery to power the nitrous solenoid which pulls roughly 8 amps. If anyone can help I would really appreciate it since I've been struggling with this for a month already.
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