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Sancho

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  1. pretty sure it's because I've got knock threshold set to 0 lol I really need some knock detection equipment, have been given some ideas of retarding the ignition table, log the knock noise, and going from there to establish a "base" knock noise reading, obviously not as good and as accurate as actual knock listening.
  2. Any more to this? also having the exact same issue.. Used some of the settings mentioned in this post but it still counts knock when maybe cruising at 2500rpm, seems to definately hear bumps too. V1/2WRX stock knock sensor however.
  3. Apparently I haven't set it up correctly, the manual is what I referenced to set it up, but the help file has another method which I didn't know about, as I wasn't using Windows XP until now. apparently you set sens to 0 and base to 0 then adjust as per rest of steps?
  4. Hi there, Before I go and get my car tuned I'd really like to have sorted a few things out so I can save a whole heap of time on getting this boost control stable. I haven't had much luck getting the boost control to not grossly overshoot the boost target. I have my boost target set to 1.05bar but it will massively overboost as high as 1.3bars... and is generally unable to control it at all.. Would like to think it's workable and not just "better off with a boost tap" like some people have told me. Have attached the print out file of settings, if anyone wishes to have a look would be good. Car = MY96 WRX EJ20, 8.5:1 CR Pistons, Yellow P2 Injectors, TD05 (90Deg) Mostly Equal headers, 3" Turbo-Back exhaust, Wideband Oxy, and have got the fuel table for around 10.5:1AFR under full boost. Perhaps I've done something wrong, or Everything wrong and I'm just lost and should leave it alone, but then i'd never learn anything. , File Name: C:\PCLink\4.6.16.pcl Printout Date: 7/06/2016 Printout Time: 01:02:15 NOTES: LINK MEMORY DATA Configuration Limits MAP Sensor = Factory Advance Limit = 30° MAP Limit = 210kPa RPM limit = 7300rpm Lambda Closed loop Lambda = Off Lambda Targets Table Target Area Idle Cruise Rows 3 Rows 4 Rows 5 Rows 6 83 78 82 84 86 87 Utilities TPS High = 58 TPS Low = 2 Idle Speed Control Temperature Switch = 85°C Idle Cold = 48% Idle Hot = 38% Idle RPM = 900rpm Fuel Fuel - Auxiliary Master = 90 Clamp = 35kPa Cold Start = 60 Crank Enrich = 55 Fuel - Accel Volts Correction = 15 WakeUp Pulse = 3 Knock Control Knock Base Target = 100 Knock Control = On Boost Control Boost Table Engine Speed (rpm) 250 750 1250 1750 2250 2750 3250 3750 4250 4750 5250 5750 6250 6750 7250 7750 MAP (kPa) 140 150 160 205 205 205 205 205 205 205 205 205 205 205 205 205 Wastegate Base = 40 Wastegate RPM = 3200 Wastegate Sens. = 7 Fuel Table Fuel Table Engine Speed (rpm) 250 750 1250 1750 2250 2750 3250 3750 4250 4750 5250 5750 6250 6750 7250 7750 MAP (kPa) 20 90 92 95 95 90 94 94 93 93 93 93 93 93 93 93 93 60 100 100 100 100 95 95 95 100 102 102 102 102 102 102 102 102 100 101 101 101 101 101 99 99 101 105 106 110 110 110 110 110 110 140 117 117 117 117 117 117 117 117 125 125 125 125 125 125 125 125 180 130 130 130 130 130 130 130 130 130 130 130 130 130 130 130 130 220 135 135 135 135 135 135 135 135 135 135 135 135 135 135 135 135 Ignition Table Ignition Table Engine Speed (rpm) 250 750 1250 1750 2250 2750 3250 3750 4250 4750 5250 5750 6250 6750 7250 7750 MAP (kPa) 20 15 16 16 20 28 28 28 28 28 28 28 29 30 30 30 30 60 15 16 16 18 25 25 25 25 25 25 26 27 28 28 28 28 100 0 10 10 15 16 18 20 22 22 22 23 24 25 26 26 26 140 0 5 10 12 12 12 15 17 19 21 22 23 24 25 25 25 180 0 5 10 10 10 10 11 11 13 14 14 17 17 19 20 21 220 0 5 10 10 10 10 10 11 11 12 14 16 16 17 19 19
  5. Maximum Boost is limited by the MAP sensor you have fitted. so factory map sensor maximum boost is somewhere around 1.2bar according to the manual, as the sensor is 2.5bar absolute(so boost + atmosphere of 1bar = absolute), and pressure in the atmosphere is 1bar. so it only has 1.5bars of "boost" it can read. there is a 3bar sensor you can fit. but you will be very close to maxing your injectors to be able to run that much boost with a VF28 IMO. this is just my understanding of it. if you don't have one I don't reccomend trying to tune yourself. the ECU doesn't support widebands, but you can watch it and adjust fuel settings fine. .
  6. Have you read the manual, it's got excellent in depth documentation about setting the wastegate settings, read about "wgbase" and "wgate sens"
  7. Have actually worked this out. Managed to access the program but it wouldn't start. had a broken transistor on the little board (physically pulled out of its solder) desoldered, resoldered and started first pop. also wouldn't mind knowing which voltage range the narrowband is asking for? have an innovate MTX-L and it's standard output for narrowband sim is 0-1.1v 14-15.1 AFR.
  8. Excellent, Thanks. I'll try this over the weekend and see how I go. I can't seem to find anyone selling a hand controller which would probably speed this process up.
  9. I'll try use the serial port on my laptop, there's no special serial cable required to purchase? is there any way to prove that the ECU is powered up? Any particular pins that definitely need power? Or should I just check out the Subaru wiring diagram. can I send it to you guys for testing/repairs if needed? the Serialink I have owned for under a week, so I'm not sure if that could be the issue right now.
  10. What I was doing disconnect battery, plug in plink plug in serial link plug in USB adaptor to PC, make sure it has com assignment open up pclink 2.5 , set com port Connect battery and turn key to on. click connect to link in software, where the software sits there for about 15-20 sec then says its unable to communicate.
  11. Yeah, and that's the problem I'm having, it won't connect. However as I said before I don't have a running vehicle to try it yet. And I'd like to know if it works before then.
  12. It has WRXROADR on the sticker, which I am told is laptop tunable, thanks.
  13. Hi there, have got a Possumlink ECU (MY96) and I cannot seem to be able to connect to it via PCLink, Is there any special requirements to use the SerialLink? I haven't been able to find a decent serial cable, only used Prolific USB-Serial adaptor. I have a laptop with Serial so I need to find a proper serial cable since the SerialLink doesn't include one. Is there a way to bench test the ECU? or does it really need to be installed into a running car? I tried it on my WRX with no engine installed, but it may not turn on without one. (might need sensors ect) Trying to determine if it actually works.
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