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Serkan

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Serkan last won the day on September 17

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  1. Hi sorry for being late to reply. In both my cases I concluded that there were problems with the wiring. In the first car, there was a problem with the solder of the sensor ground, in the second car the throttle plug was not seating fully into the socket. In both cases there was electrical continuity most of the time but from what I understand the e throttle system is VERY sensitive. The solder problem and the problem with the plug were randomly creating just enough resistance to trigger the fault. Fixed the problems, re calibrated and no more faults ever since. Hope it helps !
  2. I haven't been able to read a voltage with my multimeter but my multimeter only has a 240v AC option which still gives a 0.1v resolution but I'm not sure if it is sensitive enough. But if you are saying that these VR conditioners are up for the job, I will go that route
  3. Thanks will check out the Jaycar converter. Would you happen to know what Vauxhall models may have the yellow "relay"? I couldn't find too much info on my ABS sensor but as I understand it has a higher chance of being a passive sensor. Was just thinking if I should just feed it 5v to test if its active and see what happens..
  4. Seems like a good solution will look into it thank you
  5. When I took out the Old sensor I noticed that it has is magnetiç (I.e. pulls metal towards it ) and it's also two wires so I supposed that it was a passive sensor however I will try to dig up some info and get back to you thank you very much
  6. Pullup resistor off, (tried on also) active edge tried both. I was looking at the DI runtime values digital frequency etc. (F12 on PC). The digital input stays off and frequency is stuck at 0
  7. I just tried diving the car now, however still no response from the ABS sensor.. would there be anything else I can try?
  8. I had tried just spinning the wheel by hand, will try driving then and see what happens. Thank you very much.
  9. Hi I'm trying to use a 2 wire magnetic ABS sensor by connecting one side to ground and one side to a digital input however I haven't been able to get a signal in any way. I thought the sensor may be bad and I put a brand new one but still the same result. I do get some feedback that something is going on when connecting and disconnecting the sensor but nothing at all when turning the wheel. The car is a VW Golf Mk2 and I'm using the original ABS sensor. Would anybody have any thoughts on what I could try? thank you very much.
  10. Just to follow up on the other car which showed better consistency between main and sub signals, I took an ecu log of the problem showing up.. seems very strange .. Everything looks just fine and then suddenly the sub value shoots up
  11. Yes and the interesting thing is that the logs are from 2 different cars with identical TB's. Thats why I'm thinking it may be the nature of this TB? When I go through both of the logs, I see the same drift between the main and sub randomly scattered here and there, just not enough to trigger an error, but once in a while its just too much.
  12. This is the exact throttle body I'm using on both cars. The 5V and 0V are shared between the two TPS's so does this that the difference between the signals is completely to do with the internals of the throttle body? Also since this throttle body is listed in the help file, I'm assuming that it's been tried and tested?
  13. Also I wanted to link my previous topic. I was dealing with the same issue actually thought that fault 76 was a result of fault 73 however it was the other way round, because of the tracking error the ecu was shutting down the supply hence fault code 73.. just noticed that I've been dealing with this for more than 1 year
  14. Hi, I have tested 2 different cars with 2 different TTlink plug in ECU's with identical Hemi 80mm throttle bodies. 95% of the time there is no problem at all but sometimes both of them randomly go into limp mode with fault codes 76 and 73. Upon inspecting the logs, I have seen that once in a while there are slight differences between the TPS 1 and TPS 2 readings and I think that these differences are randomly triggering limp mode. Is there any way to change the tolerance of the difference between the TPS readings? Because I initially thought that there is a problem with the throttle body or wiring but having both cars with the same throttle body doing exactly the same thing confused me. Log files of different cars and map file are attached. Thank you in advance for any help. c Log 2018-04-6 5;03;49 pm.llg Log 2018-04-6 1;00;26 pm.llg c 8 4 18 v3.pclr
  15. Hi, just wanted to share an update on this matter, before contacting tech, I just thought I'd inspect the wiring loom, and I found that a piece of wire (from pin 117 ethrottle motor +) about the thickness of a hair was sticking out through the insulation. I'm guessing that this thin wire was touching somewhere and probably grounding the throttle motor. I fixed and isolated the wire, been driving it for the last few days, everything seems to be okay now. No fault codes at the moment but I'm thinking if I should be worried about the hardware block 2 error that I was getting when I had the problem. Could it have done any damage to the ecu?
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