Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About iliasfyntanidis

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 06/05/1980

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Can someone adjust my pc link with this change?As a starting point...
  2. Thanks for the reply. When you have time please OPEN my eyes because I am ready to fill the trunk with TNT... Where or how I can I change this setting Adam? Should I go to Fuel Main->Load=BAP and change that to MAP or somewhere else? I am on Load=BAP right now. The reason for selecting alpha N is that I have vacuum at idle 33~40kpa due to the aggressive camshafts with 106 LSA and 12mmift from 8 mm originally.
  3. I am facing a problem with my tune.Have done approx 1700 kms and the car is well tuned.It starts almost fine in the morning,better when is hot,have done the idle procedure and have walked through open loop to closed loop to set the duty cycle of my ISC valve,have engaged Idle Ignition Control,used plennty Autoune and mixture map,pulls hard till 8500 rpm,generaly it rides almost fine. I have one problem that i can not solve from day one and dont know in which direction should i look...I am circling aroud the things i have done such as adjusting the ISC valve duty cycle.Idle Ignition Control can not solve the issue.Is a mechanical issue, bad idle control valve issue, ECU problem... WTF? The problem is that sometimes i have bad engine startups and i should keep the revs with the gas pedal ,tight parking maneuvers are a bitch as the car wants to stall when i let the gas pedal and the most annoying is that when i come to a stop after overrun the idle falls way down low,the AFR's also,to 20's and the car stalls....There is no conflict between overrun,have done the idle procedure correct many many times and the car other times behaves as it should.So the tune is not consistent.There are days when nothing of this happens.Someone could easilly say to adjust my idle but have done this and my target error is spot on.First open loop and then closed loop. The car is Alpha N(no map sensor active on the tune) and the IAT reports high but its correct.Have 2 of them,the intake is just above the exhaust header and when i come to a stop heat soaks.What you guys think,before the sledge hammer takes play.... Below are some stalls and my pc link file.These 3 are stallings. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1XRUfHlrXxJSapyeyMltN5CEpqOcH6BSY https://drive.google.com/open?id=131xJKhMAy8IHwZ2N39yjTT-Y4aFdLvPL https://drive.google.com/open?id=1rIbWNsEmlu7Z3XgzlnBpb1m_Niip62XF And these are bad starts https://drive.google.com/open?id=1gkko34U3ZspfX_E-bJ0q16d9i_TFuQAw https://drive.google.com/open?id=1yuhv_dNjeKAdK8pRvsL1dYJp2VzY6xOz https://drive.google.com/open?id=1W3iQH56TYD4PsJiFnLc4wZxuEjjEcjk9 Mazda Miata Current Map with Knock.pclr
  4. I am dealing with some strange overrun behaviour.Although all conditions are met its activating very very late.Sometimes i let the revs fall hit my idle target on purpose and still have not entered the overrun.Please see the attached file.PC Link included.The injector on the log files still working,as far i can see from the duty cycle.Disregard the MAP sensor,it's not functional.The engine is Alpha - N tuned.The only thing that makes sense is the AFR Target Table turned on.But on deccelaration? Overrun Not Activating.llg Mazda Miata Current Map.pclr
  5. Hi. Can I monitor these parameters as runtime values somewhere? In total (and it's sub envelopes) like cold start parameters ? I haven't found something. Also in the latest firmware I have noticed that overrun is being activeted later(0.5 TP threshold and 1.2 sec) than the previous firmware? All conditions are met. Is that my idea or not?I am seeing about 3 seconds delay time before activation.
  6. Well bridging 5V with signal I get 5V on my runtime values. On the other hand bridging 0V with signal I get 0V on my runtime values. Harness is 110 % correct. So officially the MAP Sensor is shot Sometimes it shows. But it's not trustworthy anymore.
  7. I am away for vacations Adam. Thank you for the support, every time its second to none . Will do as I get back.
  8. I tried to blow in the very first but nothing changed. Yesterday the voltage without doing nothing, just pc link open to see the voltage output it changed from 1.2 to 0.5 on its own. Even if the sensor gives me a good reading it will not be trust worthy anymore.
  9. Unfortunately I have measured 4.97 Volts. So the sensor is shot, correct?
  10. Car has not started for a while,4 months.Tried to do a MAP sensor calibration and i get a message saying MAP Sensor Calibration command failed: Current MAP <5kPa or > 5kPa of baro reading. The pin out is 100% correct as the car was working fine on February and when i hit F12 run time values i get 1.04 Volts. It's a GM 3Bar Sensor bought from DIY Autotune.10 months old.... Something isn't lining up.Any thoughts?
  11. Simon i am not refering to the shielded wire used for the knock sensor going to the ECU plug.I am refering to the 2 pin wire that conects the knock sensor with the amplifier. Knock Sensor Loom A and B as they are called in the following picture pins wire should be a shielded one per instructions.
  12. Hi there. I came across a unit which was for sale,without cables ,loom etc.It's new just a plain unit. 1)Can it be used as Knock Control Interface with i88 units or just as Knock Tuning Tool? I have a i88 unit and i was reading the maunal that it can be used with 2 possible methods,as a Knock Control Interface or Knock Tuning Tool. 2)In the first case the Vipec's internal knock control circuit is being dissabled and the Knock control is done by the amplifier? 3)Why does the pull-up resistor on the DI channel used must be disabled and the auxiliary channel providing the window must be set to active low? 4)Is there a spare main loom that i can purchase or a part number of the 6 pin connector used so as to fabricate one? 5)The wire used on the knock sensor has to be shielded as i read on the instructions.Should i end the shield to any of the 2 pins on the connector side? 6)Any part number for the knock sensor 2 way connector? 7)How would you describe Vipec Knock Amplifier compared to Link Knock Block in terms of tuning aid and ease of function?
  13. @cj Thank you very much for the answers and usefull questions. Please tell me how would you setup the calibration table depending the following image.Would you set 0.5volt as 0 psi and 4.5volt as 100psi?My error is that i have set 4.5 volt as 114.7 psi correct? Honeywell PX3 by Ηλίας Φυντανίδης, on Flickr I am using Siemens Deka 550cc fuel injectors.The dead times are the following 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 4.999 2.024 1.33 1.032 0.883 0.685 0.586 0.487 0.387 0.338 I will do the rest as suggested.By the way are you a tuner?Because i see you are always spot on..... Thank you for you time and effort.
  14. Cj I have 2 ECT and 2 IAT involved. They 4 read the same but only the 2 of them take part in the ECU.The others are for future use with my Rotrex. The camshafts are big about 60° of overlap thus I have my load axis set to TPS. The sensors are PX3AN2BS100PAAAX sealed gage both of them. The idle stop screw is set correctly. Basically I just got back from a small ride and noticed that overrun issues are solved. The problem that I have now is at tight maneuver and light throttle openings where the RPM drop and the engine stalls.
  • Create New...