iliasfyntanidis

Runs like a champ,again!

Great! Always check the instruments!

@Rossobianconero thanks for the input! Well today i adjusted the intake adjustable camshaft gear.The Trigger Scope it's much better.The magnets are almost centered between the crank teeth.Even with a ruller the difference is obvious. https://www.dropbox.com/s/fqgpjxn22lsaiea/Trigger Scope Adjusted Trigger VVTi.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/ghn65t1365ky317/Trigger Scope Adjusted Trigger VVTi 2.jpg?dl=0 This one is from an old Trigger Scope. https://www.dropbox.com/s/viqob7jfvrqce6s/Trigger Scope 5500rpm 2.jpg?dl=0 Have not driven the car but i feel that the problem is solved,finally.As soon as i hit the road i will report back just for the record.

Hi Adam. Yes the engine had a full rebuild. The reason for the edges of cam and crank teeth falling one each other is because it has different camshafts, so I had to time them using the lift at top dead center method. I have seen the original trigger pattern. Yesterday in a long ride with various WOTs I had plenty of trigger errors. As soon as the engine got really warm, so the belt slack eliminated the engine pulled all its gears to 8300 rpm. I will try what you have suggested me and if this doesn't work I will rotate the outer portion of the adjustable camshafts gear in the other direction to fit the magnets(teeth) centered in relation to the crankshaft teeth. May I ask if I keep the VVTi pattern and switch trigger 2 to rising what will happen? Thanks for the help.

Adam this my latest map. https://www.dropbox.com/s/eqn0d312fkv05uu/Mazda Miata GearTech Ignition Map Advanced%2CCLL%2COil Pressure Limit%2COverrun High Resolution 2 VVTi.pclr?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/viqob7jfvrqce6s/Trigger Scope 5500rpm 2.jpg?dl=0

Today with the different trigger pattern I got trigger error, upon acceleration. Should I change the crankshaft and camshaft sensors and the coil on plugs? Is it worth try? I am asking, I don't know if the trigger error has to do only with camshaft and camshaft sync.

Thanks Adam. Will test it on the road and get back. How does the VVTi trigger pattern compensates(everything is set to zero) ?I did a trigger scope and got the exact crank and cam patterns as the OBD2 pattern that I had.

The problem has returned unfortunately.I had the belt tight enough and for a few days i did not have any trigger errors.Although there were times that with the belt with the right tension(loose) there where no trigger errors present,so i can not extract a safe conclusion ...It was wrong(tight) so i adjusted the tension on the normal specs. I always get trigger errors,more than ever before and i can not figure out what is going on.Lately on a typical Sunday blast for the first 30 kms(250kms in total) the engine was throwing trigger errors.As the engine was getting hotter they disappeared. I have switched the trigger set up to MX5 VVTi trigger pattern and have adjusted the base timing again.Is there anything else that i should do with the trigger 2 VVT(cam type)on the settings?I dont have an adjustable camshaft type neither anything plugged in the ecu so what should i do....There are plenty of options such as Inlet LH/RH and Exhaust LH/RH..Should i manipulate the offset in either way to have it centered ? Have not driven the car since the trigger pattern change.

Problem solved. I would like to keep the community up to date and to help everyone out, as I have received help from forum members and the guys running this forum,the problem was the timing belt slack.

Yes I can Adam. My trigger pattern at the moment is the usual, 2T-1 at the camshaft and 4T at the crank not equally spaced. Isn't that we are seeing at the trigger scope that I have posted the correct pattern ? What exactly do you mean that my pattern is offset from the expected?

Here are the 2 Trigger Scopes. https://www.dropbox.com/transfer/AAAAAE3Sy0xZgSqVKpFkbAvQPae8ZfJo5JAgf3PxbPRUW3dhKAKh4M8

I was looking at the logs and everything that has to do with spark/fuel cut crossed my mind.I had made the program my self aand i remember that i had set the GP RPM Limit 1 in regards to oil pressure. I think that i have messed with the axis set up on oil pressure. The interpolation between the last two values was a bit too agressive.Have changed that also,and tomorrow i will give it a try plus the scope. Adam what do you think?The startuo lock out matches what i see at the log.....

Hi there guys. I have a problem with my car.The RPM Limit activates lower that it should,at 7900rpm(8500 at my pclink) This only happens with 4th gear and onwards,basically when i try to hit top speed.With 1st 2nd 3rd the rev limit activates at 8300,as it should.(Default setting 8500 rpm) Here is a pull where i hit the rev limit twice,the second time went a little higher but nowhere close 8300. Attached the pclink and 4th gear pull.Please forward the log at 8:17...... At the dyno(Dynapack)where 5th gear was used there wasn't a problem with the rpm limit.Kicked in where it should. Have contacted the Link team but they said that it might be noise(i have an adapter harness on the stock wires)runout from the crank...etc. Any insight from the community would help. The car is a Mazda Miata 1.6lt MK2 1999 model rated at 180bhp fully N/A built. Regards Lewis https://www.dropbox.com/s/af83h9gn4sptede/Mazda%20Miata%20GearTech%20Ignition%20Map%20Advanced%2CCLL%2COil%20Pressure%20Limit%2COverrun.pclr?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/nimm9d0iqpy845x/4th%20Gear%20Pull.llg?dl=0

Noted will not touch it. By the way I have the earlier case which looks much prettier than the late ones. Does the warranty covers ECU's that have been purchased second hand?

Is it possible to convert one not waterproof to a waterproof one? Is there an option as a service or a kit for purchase?

Is there any specific strategy of using mixture map? I always hit the same cells while driving . How do you approach WOT cells? From 2500 rpm with 5th all the way to the rev limiter? Uphill, downhill....? Also can I alter the highlight range to be more specific on the values I get?

Happy New Year first of all,to everyone. @Adamwyou were spot on about the Equation Load Source to use MAP instead of BAP.The car now behaves as it should when i reach to a stop. I would like to ask the following because i dont get it....On the Link Help file it says to use BAP if the MAP signal is not consistent as mine.I have more or less 30 kpa at idle,unstable due to high lift camshafts.Why BAP couldn't work on my occasion and how could I control my idle if I was using BAP instead of MAP? Now that i have selected MAP instead of BAP i can not use the mixture map.It's not showing up? My PC Link is below.Thanks fellas! Mazda Miata Final Map 3.pclr

Can someone adjust my pc link with this change?As a starting point...

Thanks for the reply. When you have time please OPEN my eyes because I am ready to fill the trunk with TNT... Where or how I can I change this setting Adam? Should I go to Fuel Main->Load=BAP and change that to MAP or somewhere else? I am on Load=BAP right now. The reason for selecting alpha N is that I have vacuum at idle 33~40kpa due to the aggressive camshafts with 106 LSA and 12mmift from 8 mm originally.

I am facing a problem with my tune.Have done approx 1700 kms and the car is well tuned.It starts almost fine in the morning,better when is hot,have done the idle procedure and have walked through open loop to closed loop to set the duty cycle of my ISC valve,have engaged Idle Ignition Control,used plennty Autoune and mixture map,pulls hard till 8500 rpm,generaly it rides almost fine. I have one problem that i can not solve from day one and dont know in which direction should i look...I am circling aroud the things i have done such as adjusting the ISC valve duty cycle.Idle Ignition Control can not solve the issue.Is a mechanical issue, bad idle control valve issue, ECU problem... WTF? The problem is that sometimes i have bad engine startups and i should keep the revs with the gas pedal ,tight parking maneuvers are a bitch as the car wants to stall when i let the gas pedal and the most annoying is that when i come to a stop after overrun the idle falls way down low,the AFR's also,to 20's and the car stalls....There is no conflict between overrun,have done the idle procedure correct many many times and the car other times behaves as it should.So the tune is not consistent.There are days when nothing of this happens.Someone could easilly say to adjust my idle but have done this and my target error is spot on.First open loop and then closed loop. The car is Alpha N(no map sensor active on the tune) and the IAT reports high but its correct.Have 2 of them,the intake is just above the exhaust header and when i come to a stop heat soaks.What you guys think,before the sledge hammer takes play.... Below are some stalls and my pc link file.These 3 are stallings. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1XRUfHlrXxJSapyeyMltN5CEpqOcH6BSY https://drive.google.com/open?id=131xJKhMAy8IHwZ2N39yjTT-Y4aFdLvPL https://drive.google.com/open?id=1rIbWNsEmlu7Z3XgzlnBpb1m_Niip62XF And these are bad starts https://drive.google.com/open?id=1gkko34U3ZspfX_E-bJ0q16d9i_TFuQAw https://drive.google.com/open?id=1yuhv_dNjeKAdK8pRvsL1dYJp2VzY6xOz https://drive.google.com/open?id=1W3iQH56TYD4PsJiFnLc4wZxuEjjEcjk9 Mazda Miata Current Map with Knock.pclr

I am dealing with some strange overrun behaviour.Although all conditions are met its activating very very late.Sometimes i let the revs fall hit my idle target on purpose and still have not entered the overrun.Please see the attached file.PC Link included.The injector on the log files still working,as far i can see from the duty cycle.Disregard the MAP sensor,it's not functional.The engine is Alpha - N tuned.The only thing that makes sense is the AFR Target Table turned on.But on deccelaration? Overrun Not Activating.llg Mazda Miata Current Map.pclr

Hi. Can I monitor these parameters as runtime values somewhere? In total (and it's sub envelopes) like cold start parameters ? I haven't found something. Also in the latest firmware I have noticed that overrun is being activeted later(0.5 TP threshold and 1.2 sec) than the previous firmware? All conditions are met. Is that my idea or not?I am seeing about 3 seconds delay time before activation.

Well bridging 5V with signal I get 5V on my runtime values. On the other hand bridging 0V with signal I get 0V on my runtime values. Harness is 110 % correct. So officially the MAP Sensor is shot Sometimes it shows. But it's not trustworthy anymore.

I am away for vacations Adam. Thank you for the support, every time its second to none . Will do as I get back.

I tried to blow in the very first but nothing changed. Yesterday the voltage without doing nothing, just pc link open to see the voltage output it changed from 1.2 to 0.5 on its own. Even if the sensor gives me a good reading it will not be trust worthy anymore.