Hyperblade

Yes, grounded to sensor ground. Ok can give that a go. The other thing we were thinking of trying is running a single sensor ground wire back from the bulk head connector to Plug B (so not being spliced into the other sensor grounds that go into plug A) Currently the VSS is running off 5V, is it worth trying it at 12v and turning pull up off?

Good spotting, yes we do. We are looking at options for trying to work out where that may be coming from as there doesn't seem to be any settings in ECU to adjust the threshold (just bury head in sand and ignore the problem approach to solving it). Plug A and Plug B both have sensor grounds (Gnd Out) pins at the moment all sensors are connected to A and B has nothing on it. I'm assuming internally are they treated the same? e.g. you don't need to hook sensors that are connected to plug B to have sensor gnd from plug b?

So it's taken me a bit but I finally got the Oscilloscope trace for you... I had someone fairly knowledgeable do it, and everything on the sensor looks good and as expected and the signal is stable and strong. I'm curious as to how the S2000 plugin ecu works fine, unless you've got some additional hardware?

Here's my saga with same errors In the end moving the ground away from coils ground solved it for me.

On XtremeX i'm just doing a bit of rewiring in preparation for going to e-throttle, I want to be able to plug in the E-throttle later and just reconfigure the settings to get it to go. One of the things required is the E-Throttle Relay, can I set that up ahead of time and just control it as soon as the power comes on e.g. if (true) or if (1=1) so it's always powered for now?

Ok thanks for looking into it, will try and get a scope somehow.

When looking at it in real time I thought the duty cycle changed with speed in a consistent fashion, but looking at logs that doesn't appear to be the case. Files here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1FnPhQe_9f1wKRYdibQIAtl0XKAYnfxF8?usp=sharing

@Adamw I swapped in a new sensor as I couldn't get access to an oscilloscope, same issue. I confirmed the pull up resistor has to be on for me to get any signal, so not sure how the S2000 base map works with it off? But I did notice something different this time, the Duty Cycle hits 100% on DI2 when it cuts out. How is that duty cycle calculated? Is it based on a previous max value the input has reached, or is it based on what the ecu supports in the firmware?

Brillant, thanks for the feedback.

My original map had dual RPM limit tables, and I've turned this off (due to the shift light not changing when it's activated when switching between the too.) and I also lowered the limit by 250 rpm as it was not meant to be set that high. Originally it was 9250 and I've dropped it to 9000 (which i do not want to go over ever) and I'm happy for the soft limit to start applying at 8800. But i'm not confident that the rev limit is applying correctly, it would be awesome if someone more knowledgeable could double check my setup. Map attached. KP61R-2022-03-20.pclx

Sorry about that, took that then decided to actually write it down so it was searchable in the future for others, have removed that image now. Thanks for the help.

It was on when i had the issues, doesn't get a signal when it's off.

Setup: K20 with a Honda S2000 AP1 Gearbox and G4X XtremeX. The speed sensor signal keeps dropping out just over 5000 Hz (DI2), consistently, around 130km/hr with current setup. What is the best way to diagnosis where the fault lies? Form a configuration standpoint I've checked out the Link S2000 Base map and it has the following Driving Wheel Speed Correction: 0.0% Slip Filter: 20Hz Pull Up Resistor: Off Active Edge: Falling Freq Filter: None Calibration 9600 Where as mine(which has been on dyno at tuner) has Driving Wheel Speed Correction: -10.0% Slip Filter: None Pull Up Resistor: On Active Edge: Rising Freq Filter: None Calibration 12974 Which obviously stands out as being different in the Active Edge, (but could be because the Honda S2000 base map is for plugin ECU), but would that cause it to just drop the signal over 5000Hz? I wouldn't have thought so which leads me to think the sensor may be faulty? What else can I check? Video Here:

I have the following shift light in my race car, which has green and red led's, using 2 Aux outputs from the ECU. Currently the Red are set to CEL and the green set to the Link Shift light setup. However the default link shift light strategy isn't good enough, going from blinking led's to solid just isn't noticeable enough to accurately time gear changes. I would love a setup where the green LEDs come on then start flashing in the last bit of the rpm, then the red start flashing as warning before the cut. e.g. Shift: Green Solid -> Green Flashing -> Red Flashing CEL: Red solid I figured i could use a table to do some of what I wanted. This is for green LEDs (ignore 1800, 1850 that's just for testing). Which I think will work. However I can't work out how to also have the Red come on and also still perform the CEL function. Red LED setup (ignore 2000, 2050 for testing) I was thinking something like this, but then thought that will only show the light at the top RPM as it uses the table above Is what I want to do possible? Just thinking out loud, I guess other option is to have all cells set to 100 under the shift point so if CEL turned on then it would show, but would still flash red at shift rpm? Not ideal, but better then nothing? My other idea was I could potentially show the Red solid, via the conditions of > rpm or CEL = active. But that means it obviously doesn't flash which is what I really want.. So couldn't use the table. Any advise appreciated from those more experienced.

Just to follow up on this thread, I've left the CAN Lambda grounded to the chassis and it's all been dyno tuned and everything is reliable. Not exactly the ideal setup I wanted, but nothing else was affected by the noise. It would be nice if the Link CAN Lambda unit just handled the noise like everything else, e.g. the link ecu which was also ground to the same place on the head which works fine...