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Everything posted by Hyperblade

  1. Thanks, I figured as much but was wondering if i had missed something special about them
  2. In the Manual for setting up a K20a it mentions "Extra relay required as from the factory the VTEC solenoid is wires as power (+) switching Can this be changed to do ground switching via the ECU in a custom loom? Just trying to limit the number of relays i'm using.
  3. I gave up and went to a Windows tablet running PCLink which works better. The other thing I wanted was Oil Pressure which I couldn't get through OBD2 so it wasn't the best option for my use case.
  4. After doing a bit of research recently into running a tablet as the primary dash for my car here's some thoughts... Hardware: For the older Windows tablets using Micro usb you should be wary of any claims of being able to charge and have a device connected, a lot of descriptions of the adapter cables are wrong as it totally depends on the tablet, so make sure you do your research first, if in doubt it likely doesn't support both at same time. However I believe the new tablets which support USB C may be better in this regard, again do your research first. Performance of PcLink on lower speced windows tablets (1.3ghz quad cpu, 1gig ram etc) is actually very good, PcLink will be very slow as the software initially connects to the ecu, and the display wont respond for a good 10 seconds, but once it syncs up it works perfectly. Here's my 8 Inch acer tablet with Windows 10 and PcLink with different layouts Because I could not charge and display data at same time I just ran it on battery, it lasted for a good 5-6 hours which was impressive. To me there's no point in having a tablet that can't charge and display so I replaced the above with a Lenovo ThinkPad Tablet 2 (2 usb ports, 10 inch) with Windows 10 and PcLink This charges and runs at the same time which is perfect. Setup: Setting up PcLink for the tablets is a bit of a pain as PcLink doesn't support touch very well. The easiest way is to have another pc with PcLink running and do the setup on that then transfer the layout files across. Your best to set the resolution of the display on your laptop to match the tablet as otherwise positioning of elements is very hit and miss (especially with high res displays) the ThinkPad I brought has a pen which made resizing and moving elements actually doable on the tablet. Note there is an issue with PcLink and some tablets (My acer one doesn't have this issue) where they throw a "Access violation at address 00000000 in module 'PCLink.exe'. Read pf address 0000000." same as this thread http://forums.linkecu.com/index.php?/topic/6144-access-violation-at-address-00000000-in-module-pclinkexe-read-pf-address-0000000/ It appears to be to do with the 3d chart display and it's very frustrating as PcLink is unrunnable as it triggers the error when ever you open PcLink and when it occurs it stops PcLink from working correctly. You can work around this by running PcLink on a normal pc, getting rid of the default layout with a simpler one then copying the entire folder "C:\Link G4\PCLink G4+" directly to your tablet (this means the software wont try and load the default link layouts which cause the crash). Once you have done this then you can just import layout files as normal (just make sure you use non 3d gauges). Hopefully they fix this at some point (even if it's just disabling 3d charts rather then crashing). As an aside PcLink is inconsistent with how it handles limits on displays, i.e analogue vs digital are configured in different sections of the app, Once you realise this then configuring it's not to hard, however I still haven't found a way yet to get rid of the decimal point on the km/h. PcLink has options for automatically going full screen, and auto connecting which are easily turned on through the menu. Then in windows I have set it as a start up app so it opens automatically, and have changed the user account to go straight to desktop rather the sign in screen (this is a bit more work involving regedit, guides can be found online for both). Realworld Performance: You can see me using my 8 inch tablet in a race here (fully on battery). It performed flawlessly, however as you can see in the video glare is an issue with these tablets (visibility was ok from the drivers seat but could be better), so if using as your main dash then a hood/cover is something you want to look into fitting.
  5. I tried my phone again (Nexus 5X android 7) and still no go, i think plx have an issue (torque wont talk to ecu) with android 7, the tablet (nexus 7 2013 android 6) connected fine again and worked. I was trying to get my phone going to eliminate the tablet from causing the lag, so i tried another way by getting an app running on windows via the Kiwi 3, it looks responsive, I think it points finger at the nexus 7 not being fast enough as certainly doesn't appear to have the same delay. (hard to tell without gauges) The cable is only 30 - 40cm long.
  6. No they don't work, they all either charge or do data, but never at same time. Any that say otherwise are lying. When you plug the ecu in the tablet usb port is running in host OTG host mode, so can supply power to the device, but you need power going the other way which requires getting the tablet to switch modes after plugging the device in, there's only one device that does that and it only works for certain brands of tablets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OVDE0GC/ref=cm_sw_su_dp mine is an acer so not on the supported list, it's also not something i would want to put into a car. Dell also had a cable, but it had limited support for some of their tablets and can't be brought any more. So realistically its in the far to hard basket and i would recommend anyone going down this route avoid single usb port tablets. However there may be another way to use a similar tablet with a Kiwi3 via bluetooth, Just have to find some decent software for the gauges...
  7. So i tried running PCLink on a Windows 8.1 tablet (Intel Atom Z3735G quad-core 1.3ghz, 1GB ram, 1280x 800, 32gb storage) Bloat software removed. Appeared to run it perfectly fine! (Note: Haven't tested out for extended period.) You can see a video of the result below Only annoying thing is you can't charge the tablet at the same time as you have it connected to the ecu, and there is no work around for it (software or hardware) so may have to run it on battery and charge in between runs, which is a pain. If you were going to run a windows tablet I would strongly recommend getting one that has a usb port and a separate charging port.
  8. Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. I do have the following errors (IGN on, vehicle not running): Acknowledge ErrorBit Recessive ErrorError PassiveBus Warning
  9. Yep all up to date, phone is connecting to the Kiwi3 fine but wont talk to ecu, phone is running Android 7 though so that may be an issue, i know they had to update firmware for android 6.
  10. That looks pretty responsive. I'm finding even just getting a connection to be very inconsistent, I wanted to try my phone out running torque and the Kiwi3 to eliminate the tablet from being to slow, but it wont connect to the ecu now, and nothing has changed in the ecu settings. Not giving me much confidence in it.
  11. What are the system requirements for PCLink? I've tried searching the website and the help file and couldn't find anything. Also couldn't see anything when installing.
  12. A question for anyone who has run this setup, how did you find the performance? I got it all working (using a PLX Kiwi3), but the lag for the RPM is to much to make it usable (would be fine for the other gauges). I'm running 500 KBPS bit rate with generic dash 2 set to 100hz in pclink but changing it didn't seem to make much difference, I also tried another android app and had same problem. Is anyone using a similar setup with reasonable performance? Or is it inherently to slow using OBD2 and bluetooth?
  13. My car has just been tuned and it's come back with firmware at version At the moment the latest software can't connect to the ecu because it's an older version. When will a PcLink version be released that can connect to that version? Cheers Ben
  14. I'm looking at running a Bluetooth obd2 reader connected via can to a storm blue g4+. I'm using torque for Android on a tablet (Nexus 7) A couple of quick questions. Do you need to terminate the obd2 connector, or will the Bluetooth device be enough? What protocol are people using for torque? Link ecu says ISO 15764-4 but torque only supports 15765-4. What bit rate and baud are you using? Do you get the device to show in the link ecu software?
  15. I will see if I can document my steps then will send it through to the support email, rather then spamming this thread
  16. Did the fix make it into a public release? I have some weird stuff going on with the altezza base map (ecu offline) it could be just me being new to the software, but it's very similar to the issues David was having.
  17. I plan to take it to either NZEFI or Spec Performance for tuning so it should be fine Thanks for the help!
  18. Thanks for the feedback! Really appreciated! I'm planning to use a narrow band sensor so should be ok.
  19. Hi I'm new to tuning and am going to be installing a G4+ Storm Blue (have already acquired second hand) by myself for a 3S-GE Beams Blacktop (in a Toyota Starlet race car). It's a stock engine with the 6 speed gearbox (only mod is pod filter) and has been currently running on the stock ecu. I've converted a spare 3S-GE throttle body to manual control which will only have the standard TPS on it and will use this instead of the electronic one currently on the car. I'll also be running a 3 wire ISC (Bosch copy). I'll be running a dash via can/odb2. I've been reading through the help files and think i have everything sorted, but wanted some feedback from people who are a bit more experienced. Does it all make sense, or is there anything obviously wrong? Grey rows = functions i don't believe I have access to on the blue storm. Installer I/O Table, 3S-GE Beams Blacktop, N/A, VVTI, 4 Cyl, Manual Throttle Body, Link Storm BlueFunctionConnectionExampleTrigger 1Crank Angle SensorReluctor, Proximity, Optical or HallTrigger 2Inlet Cam Position SensorAnalog Temp Input 1Engine Coolant Temperature SensorNTC Thermistor sensors OnlyAnalog Temp Input 2Inlet Air Temperature SensorAnalog Temp Input 3 Analog Temp Input 4 Analog Volt 1O2 Sensor0-5V Input from sensor or external controllerAnalog Volt 2Oil Pressure (Shared with DI4 on Storm)Analog Volt 3TPS MainAnalog Volt 4TPS SubAnalog Volt 5(Internal MAP on Storm)Analog Volt 6 Analog Volt 7 Analog Volt 8 Analog Volt 9 Analog Volt 10 Analog Volt 11 +5V OutTPS and MAP sensor power+5V Power OUT+8V Out Ignition 1Coil 1Use spare Ignition channels for switching type Auxiliary OutputsIgnition 2Coil 2Ignition 3Coil 3Ignition 4Coil 4Ignition 5 Ignition 6 Ignition 7 Ignition 8 Injection 1Injector 1Wire Inj 1 to cyl 1, 2 to 2, 3to 3 etc... Use spare Injection channels for switching type Auxiliary OutputsInjection 2Injector 2Injection 3Injector 3Injection 4Injector 4Injection 5 Injection 6 Injection 7 Injection 8 Auxiliary Output 13W-ISC Close (ISC Solenoid Slave)High Frequency PWM or VVT Control. 3W-ISC Solenoid must be wired to Aux1 & Aux2.Auxiliary Output 23W-ISC Open (ISC Solenoid)Auxiliary Output 3Inlet VVTI SolenoidAuxiliary Output 4Exhaust VVTI SolenoidAuxiliary Output 5Fuel Pump RelayPWM less than 300 Hz or GP switching. ISC Stepper. High side driven loads.Auxiliary Output 6Engine Radiator Fan RelayAuxiliary Output 7 Auxiliary Output 8 Auxiliary Output 9(E-throttle Motor +)E Throttle Motor or GP Output.Auxiliary Output 10(E-throttle Motor -)Knock 13S-GE Knock Sensor (Shared with DI3)Knock Sensors OnlyKnock 2 Digital Input 1Exhaust Cam Position SensorFrequency Input, Switch Input or VVT PositionDigital Input 2Speed SensorDigital Input 3(Shared with Knock 1)Digital Input 4(Shared with An Volt 2 on Storm)
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