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Posts posted by Hyperblade

  1. I'm looking at putting in an G4X XtremeX into my race car with a custom loom to a K20a Euro R motor and an S2000 gearbox, running Link CAN Lambda (via B Plug) and Link Dash via CAN (via B Plug).

    It would be awesome if someone could eyeball the following and see if anything stands out as completely wrong.

    A Loom

    Pin Name Function Channel Assignment Notes
    A1 Injection 4 INJ-4 Injector Cyl 4  
    A2 Injection 3 INJ-3 Injector Cyl 3  
    A3 Injection 2 INJ-2 Injector Cyl 2  
    A4 Injection 1 INJ-1 Injector Cyl 1  
    A5 +14 volt supply +14 V ECU power supply  
    A6 8 Volt 8V 8V Sensor supply TPS, ext map
    A7 Shield & trigger Ground Shield/Gnd Trigger shield & -VE gnds don't connect shields at engine end
    A8 Trigger 1 Trig-1 Crank Angle Sensor REF  
    A9 Trigger 2 Trig-2 Exhaust Cam Position Sensor SYNC  
    A10 Ignition 4 IGN-4 Coil Cyl 4  
    A11 Ignition 3 IGN-3 Coil Cyl 3  
    A12 Ignition 2 IGN-2 Coil Cyl 2  
    A13 Ignition 1 IGN-1 Coil Cyl 1  
    A14 Analog Volt 4 AV4 Fuel Pressure Sensor  
    A15 Analog Temp Input 1 AT1 ECT Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor  
    A16 Analog Temp Input 2 AT2 IAT Inlet Air Temperature Sensor  
    A17 Analog Volt 1 AV1 Oil Pressure Sensor  
    A18 Auxiliary Output 4 AUX-4 Electric Water Pump PWM Low side
    A19 Auxiliary Output 3 AUX-3 IACV Stock Honda K20a
    A20 Auxiliary Output 2 AUX-2 Vtec  
    A21 Auxiliary Output 1 AUX-1 VTC  
    A22 Analog Volt 2 AV2 MAP Sensor  
    A23 Digital Input 3 DI3 Ign Switch  
    A24 Ground Out GND Out 0V Sensor Ground To engine block
    A25 Ground GND ECU power ground To engine block
    A26 Auxiliary Output 8 AUX-8 Lift Pump Low side
    A27 Auxiliary Output 7 AUX-7 ECU Hold Power  
    A28 Auxiliary Output 6 AUX-6 Fan Low side
    A29 Auxiliary Output 5 AUX-5 Fuel Pump Low side
    A30 Digital Input 1 DI1 Intake Cam Position Sensor  
    A31 Digital Input 2 DI2 Speed Sensor Stock Honda S2000
    A32 5 Volt 5V 5V sensor supply  
    A33 Analog Volt 3 AV3 TPS TPS Main  
    A34 Ground GND ECU power ground To engine block

    B Loom

    Pin Name Function Channel Assignment Notes
    B1 Injection 8 INJ-8 Outboard Injector Cyl 4  
    B2 Injection 7 INJ-7 Outboard Injector Cyl 3  
    B3 Injection 6 INJ-6 Outboard Injector Cyl 2  
    B4 Injection 5 INJ-5 Outboard Injector Cyl 1  
    B5 +14V Aux 9/10 +14 V ECU power supply  
    B6 Temp 3 AT3 Oil Temperature  
    B7 Temp 4      
    B8 Knock 2      
    B9 Knock 1      
    B10 Ignition 8 IGN-8    
    B11 Ignition 7 IGN-7    
    B12 Ignition 6 IGN-6    
    B13 Ignition 5 IGN-5    
    B14 N/C      
    B15 Analog Volt 6 AV6 Water Pressure  
    B16 Analog Volt 7 AV7    
    B17 Shield & trigger Ground Shield/Gnd   don't connect shields at engine end
    B18 Auxiliary Output 9 AUX-9    
    B19 Digital Input 6 DI6    
    B20 Digital Input 5 DI5    
    B21 Digital Input 4 DI4    
    B22 Ground Out GND Out 0V Sensor Ground To engine block
    B23 Analog Volt 8 AV8    
    B24 Analog Volt 9 AV9    
    B25 Ground GND ECU power ground To engine block
    B26 Auxiliary Output 10 AUX-10    
    B27 DI 10 / CAN 2 H CAN H CAN H  
    B28 DI 9 / CAN 2 L CAN L CAN L  
    B29 Digital Input 8 DI8    
    B30 Digital Input 7 DI7    
    B31 Analog Volt 10 AV10 Steering Angle Sensor  
    B32 Analog Volt 11 AV11 Rear Brake Pressure Sensor  
    B33 Analog Volt 5 AV5 Front Brake Pressure Sensor  
    B34 Ground GND ECU power ground To engine block

    Is there other sensors worth adding in or at least adding wiring for?

  2. 22 hours ago, Adamw said:

    It should be ok through a single pin provided it can handle the current with a good safety margin above steady state to allow for in-rush and minimal voltage drop etc.  An Xtreme for instance, 10 aux outputs capable of 2A each, 8 inj drives capable of 5A each = 60A total ground current fully loaded  = unlikely to work through a single ground pin...

    However if you only have 4 x injectors that pull 1A each and a few auxes pulling 0.5A then a single ground pin would be fine.


    How do the standard wires handle 60A? My understanding was they were 22 AWG so around 7A each = 28A total which is quite a bit less then the 60A max?

    6 hours ago, Leo Malcolm said:

    Was the intent of that "DO NOT JOIN" warning mostly so that someone doesn't combine too small of a gauge wire to all the power ground wires or was it more for noise immunity? Just intrigued.

    I'm also curious about this as well.

  3. The manual has a very explicit warning not to combine the power grounds.



    However I'm planning to go from the cabin through a bulkhead connector into the engine bay and I'm trying to reduce the number of pins required.

    • Can they be combined on the other side of the connector in the engine bay with an appropriately sized wire which then goes to the engine block?
    • Am I safe to do the same with both connectors so 4 wires into 1 pin?
    • Or run each wire all the way, so 4 pins required on the bulk head connector.


  4. 33 minutes ago, Adamw said:

    If its a two wire solenoid then yes you should be fine to connect +12V constant to one side and lowside drive the other side directly with an Aux.  I suspect the note in the help file was probably based on using the factory loom which has one side of the solenoid permanently grounded.

    Thanks, I figured as much but was wondering if i had missed something special about them :)

  5. In the Manual for setting up a K20a it mentions

    "Extra relay required as from the factory the VTEC solenoid is wires as power (+) switching

    Can this be changed to do ground switching via the ECU in a custom loom?

    Just trying to limit the number of relays i'm using.

  6. Hyperblade, did you have any luck getting torque to work with the Android 7?

    I gave up and went to a Windows tablet running PCLink which works better.

    The other thing I wanted was Oil Pressure which I couldn't get through OBD2 so it wasn't the best option for my use case.


  7. After doing a bit of research recently into running a tablet as the primary dash for my car here's some thoughts...



    For the older Windows tablets using Micro usb you should be wary of any claims of being able to charge and have a device connected, a lot of descriptions of the adapter cables are wrong as it totally depends on the tablet, so make sure you do your research first, if in doubt it likely doesn't support both at same time.

    However I believe the new tablets which support USB C may be better in this regard, again do your research first.

    Performance of PcLink on lower speced windows tablets (1.3ghz quad cpu, 1gig ram etc) is actually very good, PcLink will be very slow as the software initially connects to the ecu, and the display wont respond for a good 10 seconds, but once it syncs up it works perfectly. 

    Here's my 8 Inch acer tablet with Windows 10 and PcLink with different layouts

    Because I could not charge and display data at same time I just ran it on battery, it lasted for a good 5-6 hours which was impressive.

    To me there's no point in having a tablet that can't charge and display so I replaced the above with a Lenovo ThinkPad Tablet 2 (2 usb ports, 10 inch) with Windows 10 and PcLink

    This charges and runs at the same time which is perfect.



    Setting up PcLink for the tablets is a bit of a pain as PcLink doesn't support touch very well.

    The easiest way is to have another pc with PcLink running and do the setup on that then transfer the layout files across.

    Your best to set the resolution of the display on your laptop to match the tablet as otherwise positioning of elements is very hit and miss (especially with high res displays) the ThinkPad I brought has a pen which made resizing and moving elements actually doable on the tablet.

    Note there is an issue with PcLink and some tablets (My acer one doesn't have this issue) where they throw a 
    "Access violation at address 00000000 in module 'PCLink.exe'. Read pf address 0000000." same as this thread
     It appears to be to do with the 3d chart display and it's very frustrating as PcLink is unrunnable as it triggers the error when ever you open PcLink and when it occurs it stops PcLink from working correctly. 
     You can work around this by running PcLink on a normal pc, getting rid of the default layout with a simpler one then copying the entire folder "C:\Link G4\PCLink G4+" directly to your tablet (this means the software wont try and load the default link layouts which cause the crash). Once you have done this then you can just import layout files as normal (just make sure you use non 3d gauges). Hopefully they fix this at some point (even if it's just disabling 3d charts rather then crashing).

    As an aside PcLink is inconsistent with how it handles limits on displays, i.e analogue vs digital are configured in different sections of the app, Once you realise this then configuring it's not to hard, however I still haven't found a way yet to get rid of the decimal point on the km/h. 

    PcLink has options for automatically going full screen, and auto connecting which are easily turned on through the menu.

    Then in windows I have set it as a start up app so it opens automatically, and have changed the user account to go straight to desktop rather the sign in screen (this is a bit more work involving regedit, guides can be found online for both).


    Realworld Performance:
    You can see me using my 8 inch tablet in a race here (fully on battery).

    It performed flawlessly, however as you can see in the video glare is an issue with these tablets (visibility was ok from the drivers seat but could be better), so if using as your main dash then a hood/cover is something you want to look into fitting.




    I tried my phone again (Nexus 5X android 7) and still no go, i think plx have an issue (torque wont talk to ecu) with android 7, the tablet (nexus 7 2013 android 6) connected fine again and worked.

    I was trying to get my phone going to eliminate the tablet from causing the lag, so i tried another way by getting an app running on windows via the Kiwi 3, it looks responsive, I think it points finger at the nexus 7 not being fast enough as certainly doesn't appear to have the same delay. (hard to tell without gauges)

    The cable is only 30 - 40cm long.


  9. If you look at the CAN tab of the Runtime Values window do you have any errors present?


    Sorry for the delay in getting back to you.


    I do have the following errors (IGN on, vehicle not running):

    • Acknowledge Error
    • Bit Recessive Error
    • Error Passive
    • Bus Warning
  10. That looks pretty responsive.

    I'm finding even just getting a connection to be very inconsistent, I wanted to try my phone out running torque and the Kiwi3 to eliminate the tablet from being to slow, but it wont connect to the ecu now, and nothing has changed in the ecu settings.

    Not giving me much confidence in it.

  11. A question for anyone who has run this setup, how did you find the performance?

    I got it all working (using a PLX Kiwi3), but the lag for the RPM is to much to make it usable (would be fine for the other gauges).

    I'm running 500 KBPS bit rate with generic dash 2 set to 100hz in pclink but changing it didn't seem to make much difference, I also tried another android app and had same problem.

    Is anyone using a similar setup with reasonable performance? Or is it inherently to slow using OBD2 and bluetooth?

  12. I'm looking at running a Bluetooth obd2 reader connected via can to a storm blue g4+.

    I'm using torque for Android on a tablet (Nexus 7)

    A couple of quick questions.

    Do you need to terminate the obd2 connector, or will the Bluetooth device be enough?

    What protocol are people using for torque? Link ecu says ISO 15764-4 but torque only supports 15765-4.

    What bit rate and baud are you using? 

    Do you get the device to show in the link ecu software?

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