Hyperblade

That's correct they are different.
Also the K20a from the Accord Euro R (CL7) runs the K24 connector and pinout, I would guess the FD2 K20a might also as it's based of the CL7 engine originally.
Taken from the Haltech K20 page...

 

Thank you, I tested today separating ground. It seems I have issues with both ground and 12V, even with the capacitor mounted it has issues extremely sensitive.
I improved the ground and took a test wire from the battery the other end of the car it seems to work thank you! 
 

Our CAN lambda uses the Bosch CJ135 chipset which is their most advanced digital LSU controller, it performs many more error and signal validation tests than most other performance aftermarket controllers as well as some less common advanced functionality for sensor life improvement such as dewpoint detection of the exhaust gas for the correct heating strategy at startup.  It requires a stable clean power supply with adequate current for many of the tests to be effective.  For performance engines which may run CLL at full load, often coupled with a fairly extreme environment for the sensors such as aggressive limiter bangs, fuel additives, silicone poisoning etc, we think it is an advantage to have as many of these validations functional so CLL can be disabled and warn the driver when the signal is suspect.  Yes you can add a capacitor as a fudge in cases where the errors are being falsely reported due to excessive inductive noise or voltage drops, if a clean source cant be found, but this does potentially weaken the ability to detect real errors at the same time.  
There was a small hardware revision to the CAN lambda about the middle of last year in an effort to allow a bit more supply noise.  

Here's my saga with same errors
 
In the end moving the ground away from coils ground solved it for me.
 
 
 
 

Here's my saga with same errors
 
In the end moving the ground away from coils ground solved it for me.
 
 
 
 

Yes, just control that relay with a GP output that is always true.  MAP > 0kpa is what I typically use.  

It looks correct enough, I would change a couple of things:
I would change cut effect to adaptive.  This means the cylinders will be cut in a randomised pattern.  With constant mode at some specific conditions you can end up with the same cylinders continuously being cut so it is very hard on the crankshaft etc.   Start Cut TP 100 may need to be a bit higher (often around 60%).  This is the amount of cut that first gets applied when the control range is entered.  If too small there may not be enough cut to prevent an overshoot condition when engine acceleration is very high (ie when wheels come off the ground or boat leaping out of the water at WOT). Cut decay time could possibly be reduced - it may feel slow to recover after a limit at 100ms.   

You could set your current red shift light to a CAN aux, make another GP PWM with Aux 9 as the output, set it up to always be active and then in its Duty cycle table have the CAN Aux Duty cycle on one axis and the Virtual Aux on the other.
Alternatively set Aux 9 active state to High (so when the gp pwm is inactive the LEDs will be on) and flip all the values in your duty cycle table (100 becomes 0, 0 becomes 100, 50 stays 50). The conditions would then only be Virtual Aux = Inactive (engine speed is covered by the Duty Cycle table)

Simon's comment here: 
 
It looks like a solution to this is to shift where the driver is located.
If you move the ftd2xx.dll file from the C:\Link G4X\PCLink G4X\Link USB Drivers\i386\ftd2xx.dll folder to C:\Link G4X\PCLink G4X\Link USB Drivers\i386\ftd2xx.dll
Didn't give the correct path, but I managed to work it out.
Copy the following dll
C:\Link G4X\PCLink G4X\Link USB Drivers\i386\ftd2xx.dll
to
C:\Link G4X\PCLink G4X
And PCLink will now open. 

Simon's comment here: 
 
It looks like a solution to this is to shift where the driver is located.
If you move the ftd2xx.dll file from the C:\Link G4X\PCLink G4X\Link USB Drivers\i386\ftd2xx.dll folder to C:\Link G4X\PCLink G4X\Link USB Drivers\i386\ftd2xx.dll
Didn't give the correct path, but I managed to work it out.
Copy the following dll
C:\Link G4X\PCLink G4X\Link USB Drivers\i386\ftd2xx.dll
to
C:\Link G4X\PCLink G4X
And PCLink will now open. 

It looks like a solution to this is to shift where the driver is located.
If you move the ftd2xx.dll file from the C:\Link G4X\PCLink G4X\Link USB Drivers\i386\ftd2xx.dll folder to C:\Link G4X\PCLink G4X
 

Yep, I just fixed Simons post.

A few need changing.

 

The ground wires on the Link looms are 18awg, 120°C rated, so will handle about 15A each.  Obviously my 60A example was stating the worst case example so that you or anyone else that reads this post in future has good information to base their decisions on.  It would be very rare in real life to ever have a scenario where every output is running at 100% DC all at the same time but with power wiring it is important to consider what you have connected, the maximum DC/loads, the wire lengths, the insulation temperature rating and the amount of voltage drop that you consider is acceptable.  I have seen many fails in my time where the installer has assumed because the ECU works fine with a 5A fuse that they only need a ground capable of 5A.  
 
All ground pins are connected internally to the same ground plane so I cant think of any electrical theory reason to do so, I suspect this is more just a statement that was made to encourage installers not to take shortcuts on arguably the most important wires.  

Was the intent of that "DO NOT JOIN" warning mostly so that someone doesn't combine too small of a gauge wire to all the power ground wires or was it more for noise immunity? Just intrigued.

It should be ok through a single pin provided it can handle the current with a good safety margin above steady state to allow for in-rush and minimal voltage drop etc.  An Xtreme for instance, 10 aux outputs capable of 2A each, 8 inj drives capable of 5A each = 60A total ground current fully loaded  = unlikely to work through a single ground pin...
However if you only have 4 x injectors that pull 1A each and a few auxes pulling 0.5A then a single ground pin would be fine.

If its a two wire solenoid then yes you should be fine to connect +12V constant to one side and lowside drive the other side directly with an Aux.  I suspect the note in the help file was probably based on using the factory loom which has one side of the solenoid permanently grounded.

After doing a bit of research recently into running a tablet as the primary dash for my car here's some thoughts...
 
Hardware:
For the older Windows tablets using Micro usb you should be wary of any claims of being able to charge and have a device connected, a lot of descriptions of the adapter cables are wrong as it totally depends on the tablet, so make sure you do your research first, if in doubt it likely doesn't support both at same time.
However I believe the new tablets which support USB C may be better in this regard, again do your research first.
Performance of PcLink on lower speced windows tablets (1.3ghz quad cpu, 1gig ram etc) is actually very good, PcLink will be very slow as the software initially connects to the ecu, and the display wont respond for a good 10 seconds, but once it syncs up it works perfectly. 
Here's my 8 Inch acer tablet with Windows 10 and PcLink with different layouts
Because I could not charge and display data at same time I just ran it on battery, it lasted for a good 5-6 hours which was impressive.
To me there's no point in having a tablet that can't charge and display so I replaced the above with a Lenovo ThinkPad Tablet 2 (2 usb ports, 10 inch) with Windows 10 and PcLink
This charges and runs at the same time which is perfect.
 
Setup:
Setting up PcLink for the tablets is a bit of a pain as PcLink doesn't support touch very well.
The easiest way is to have another pc with PcLink running and do the setup on that then transfer the layout files across.
Your best to set the resolution of the display on your laptop to match the tablet as otherwise positioning of elements is very hit and miss (especially with high res displays) the ThinkPad I brought has a pen which made resizing and moving elements actually doable on the tablet.
Note there is an issue with PcLink and some tablets (My acer one doesn't have this issue) where they throw a 
"Access violation at address 00000000 in module 'PCLink.exe'. Read pf address 0000000." same as this thread
 http://forums.linkecu.com/index.php?/topic/6144-access-violation-at-address-00000000-in-module-pclinkexe-read-pf-address-0000000/
 
 It appears to be to do with the 3d chart display and it's very frustrating as PcLink is unrunnable as it triggers the error when ever you open PcLink and when it occurs it stops PcLink from working correctly. 
 
 You can work around this by running PcLink on a normal pc, getting rid of the default layout with a simpler one then copying the entire folder "C:\Link G4\PCLink G4+" directly to your tablet (this means the software wont try and load the default link layouts which cause the crash). Once you have done this then you can just import layout files as normal (just make sure you use non 3d gauges). Hopefully they fix this at some point (even if it's just disabling 3d charts rather then crashing).
As an aside PcLink is inconsistent with how it handles limits on displays, i.e analogue vs digital are configured in different sections of the app, Once you realise this then configuring it's not to hard, however I still haven't found a way yet to get rid of the decimal point on the km/h. 
PcLink has options for automatically going full screen, and auto connecting which are easily turned on through the menu.
Then in windows I have set it as a start up app so it opens automatically, and have changed the user account to go straight to desktop rather the sign in screen (this is a bit more work involving regedit, guides can be found online for both).
 
Realworld Performance:
You can see me using my 8 inch tablet in a race here (fully on battery).
It performed flawlessly, however as you can see in the video glare is an issue with these tablets (visibility was ok from the drivers seat but could be better), so if using as your main dash then a hood/cover is something you want to look into fitting.

After doing a bit of research recently into running a tablet as the primary dash for my car here's some thoughts...
 
Hardware:
For the older Windows tablets using Micro usb you should be wary of any claims of being able to charge and have a device connected, a lot of descriptions of the adapter cables are wrong as it totally depends on the tablet, so make sure you do your research first, if in doubt it likely doesn't support both at same time.
However I believe the new tablets which support USB C may be better in this regard, again do your research first.
Performance of PcLink on lower speced windows tablets (1.3ghz quad cpu, 1gig ram etc) is actually very good, PcLink will be very slow as the software initially connects to the ecu, and the display wont respond for a good 10 seconds, but once it syncs up it works perfectly. 
Here's my 8 Inch acer tablet with Windows 10 and PcLink with different layouts
Because I could not charge and display data at same time I just ran it on battery, it lasted for a good 5-6 hours which was impressive.
To me there's no point in having a tablet that can't charge and display so I replaced the above with a Lenovo ThinkPad Tablet 2 (2 usb ports, 10 inch) with Windows 10 and PcLink
This charges and runs at the same time which is perfect.
 
Setup:
Setting up PcLink for the tablets is a bit of a pain as PcLink doesn't support touch very well.
The easiest way is to have another pc with PcLink running and do the setup on that then transfer the layout files across.
Your best to set the resolution of the display on your laptop to match the tablet as otherwise positioning of elements is very hit and miss (especially with high res displays) the ThinkPad I brought has a pen which made resizing and moving elements actually doable on the tablet.
Note there is an issue with PcLink and some tablets (My acer one doesn't have this issue) where they throw a 
"Access violation at address 00000000 in module 'PCLink.exe'. Read pf address 0000000." same as this thread
 http://forums.linkecu.com/index.php?/topic/6144-access-violation-at-address-00000000-in-module-pclinkexe-read-pf-address-0000000/
 
 It appears to be to do with the 3d chart display and it's very frustrating as PcLink is unrunnable as it triggers the error when ever you open PcLink and when it occurs it stops PcLink from working correctly. 
 
 You can work around this by running PcLink on a normal pc, getting rid of the default layout with a simpler one then copying the entire folder "C:\Link G4\PCLink G4+" directly to your tablet (this means the software wont try and load the default link layouts which cause the crash). Once you have done this then you can just import layout files as normal (just make sure you use non 3d gauges). Hopefully they fix this at some point (even if it's just disabling 3d charts rather then crashing).
As an aside PcLink is inconsistent with how it handles limits on displays, i.e analogue vs digital are configured in different sections of the app, Once you realise this then configuring it's not to hard, however I still haven't found a way yet to get rid of the decimal point on the km/h. 
PcLink has options for automatically going full screen, and auto connecting which are easily turned on through the menu.
Then in windows I have set it as a start up app so it opens automatically, and have changed the user account to go straight to desktop rather the sign in screen (this is a bit more work involving regedit, guides can be found online for both).
 
Realworld Performance:
You can see me using my 8 inch tablet in a race here (fully on battery).
It performed flawlessly, however as you can see in the video glare is an issue with these tablets (visibility was ok from the drivers seat but could be better), so if using as your main dash then a hood/cover is something you want to look into fitting.

After doing a bit of research recently into running a tablet as the primary dash for my car here's some thoughts...
 
Hardware:
For the older Windows tablets using Micro usb you should be wary of any claims of being able to charge and have a device connected, a lot of descriptions of the adapter cables are wrong as it totally depends on the tablet, so make sure you do your research first, if in doubt it likely doesn't support both at same time.
However I believe the new tablets which support USB C may be better in this regard, again do your research first.
Performance of PcLink on lower speced windows tablets (1.3ghz quad cpu, 1gig ram etc) is actually very good, PcLink will be very slow as the software initially connects to the ecu, and the display wont respond for a good 10 seconds, but once it syncs up it works perfectly. 
Here's my 8 Inch acer tablet with Windows 10 and PcLink with different layouts
Because I could not charge and display data at same time I just ran it on battery, it lasted for a good 5-6 hours which was impressive.
To me there's no point in having a tablet that can't charge and display so I replaced the above with a Lenovo ThinkPad Tablet 2 (2 usb ports, 10 inch) with Windows 10 and PcLink
This charges and runs at the same time which is perfect.
 
Setup:
Setting up PcLink for the tablets is a bit of a pain as PcLink doesn't support touch very well.
The easiest way is to have another pc with PcLink running and do the setup on that then transfer the layout files across.
Your best to set the resolution of the display on your laptop to match the tablet as otherwise positioning of elements is very hit and miss (especially with high res displays) the ThinkPad I brought has a pen which made resizing and moving elements actually doable on the tablet.
Note there is an issue with PcLink and some tablets (My acer one doesn't have this issue) where they throw a 
"Access violation at address 00000000 in module 'PCLink.exe'. Read pf address 0000000." same as this thread
 http://forums.linkecu.com/index.php?/topic/6144-access-violation-at-address-00000000-in-module-pclinkexe-read-pf-address-0000000/
 
 It appears to be to do with the 3d chart display and it's very frustrating as PcLink is unrunnable as it triggers the error when ever you open PcLink and when it occurs it stops PcLink from working correctly. 
 
 You can work around this by running PcLink on a normal pc, getting rid of the default layout with a simpler one then copying the entire folder "C:\Link G4\PCLink G4+" directly to your tablet (this means the software wont try and load the default link layouts which cause the crash). Once you have done this then you can just import layout files as normal (just make sure you use non 3d gauges). Hopefully they fix this at some point (even if it's just disabling 3d charts rather then crashing).
As an aside PcLink is inconsistent with how it handles limits on displays, i.e analogue vs digital are configured in different sections of the app, Once you realise this then configuring it's not to hard, however I still haven't found a way yet to get rid of the decimal point on the km/h. 
PcLink has options for automatically going full screen, and auto connecting which are easily turned on through the menu.
Then in windows I have set it as a start up app so it opens automatically, and have changed the user account to go straight to desktop rather the sign in screen (this is a bit more work involving regedit, guides can be found online for both).
 
Realworld Performance:
You can see me using my 8 inch tablet in a race here (fully on battery).
It performed flawlessly, however as you can see in the video glare is an issue with these tablets (visibility was ok from the drivers seat but could be better), so if using as your main dash then a hood/cover is something you want to look into fitting.

No they don't work, they all either charge or do data, but never at same time. Any that say otherwise are lying.
When you plug the ecu in the tablet usb port is running in host OTG host mode, so can supply power to the device, but you need power going the other way which requires getting the tablet to switch modes after plugging the device in, there's only one device that does that and it only works for certain brands of tablets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OVDE0GC/ref=cm_sw_su_dp mine is an acer so not on the supported list, it's also not something i would want to put into a car.
Dell also had a cable, but it had limited support for some of their tablets and can't be brought any more.
So realistically its in the far to hard basket and i would recommend anyone going down this route avoid single usb port tablets.
 
However there may be another way to use a similar tablet with a Kiwi3 via bluetooth, Just have to find some decent software for the gauges...
 
 

A question for anyone who has run this setup, how did you find the performance?
I got it all working (using a PLX Kiwi3), but the lag for the RPM is to much to make it usable (would be fine for the other gauges).
I'm running 500 KBPS bit rate with generic dash 2 set to 100hz in pclink but changing it didn't seem to make much difference, I also tried another android app and had same problem.
Is anyone using a similar setup with reasonable performance? Or is it inherently to slow using OBD2 and bluetooth?