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Quick question Adam, the best way to wire this relay up is: input side"+" 12v keyed, input "-" aux out from g4+ output side to battery and the other to pump thanks for the help.

On a side not which is the preferred method for a trigger, reluctor or hall sensor. Thanks again for all your help Adam.

Okay.

Very welI I will rotate it 90 degrees. Since it still has the hall sensor currently, should l try that out first before swapping back to the mag sensor? Thanks for your help Adam.

Adam here's an old scope shot of the mag sensor prior to swapping to the hall one.

Yup pullup is on. I can try to hook the old mag sensor back up, not a terribly big deal. The one thing I did notice and it never was obvious until snapping the picture of the sensor and wheel, is the lip of the balancer fills in the "trough" area of the teeth quite a bit. When I bought the trigger wheel, quite a while back, it was specifically for my early generation engine, but I'm assuming it was designed around the factory harmonic balancer. I'm running a Fluidampr which is a pinch larger, diameter wise. Due you think it would be wise to get a larger wheel? Thanks for all the help Adam, you gentlemen are the best.

Tried saving as a log but couldn't view it. I hope these two work.

Very well let me scope it again. When I did have their supplied mag sensor it still acted up. Let me get those shots for you. Thank you.

Sorry for the delay, I had to scope it on lunch break. The scope shots and picture are lousy. The sensor gap is .034 inches and its pretty much centered. scope3k.lnk scope-idle.lnk

Its a Fury. I'll snap one first thing in the morning. Thanks.

I've got a 2.0L turbo Mitsubishi with a 6-bolt 4G63 fitted with a 60-2 Electromotive crank wheel (roughly 6.25 inches in diameter). I have it set up for sequential/traditional fueling so I'm still utilizing the cam sensor portion of the factory CAS. Idle, part-throttle, and full throttle are all good, the problem; I can't go beyond 5100+ rpm. The tach needle just buries itself as it loses signal. I've tried all manner of filtering and calibrating Trig 1 and Trig 2. My crank gap doesn't occur anywhere near the sync tooth on the cam sensor, and I have all safety limits set to off etc. And I've even tried mag sensors and hall-effect sensors, I'm currently using a Cherry brand hall effect for the crank. Would a 24 or 36 tooth wheel be a better fit for a four cylinder of this style or go to a physically larger diameter 60-2 wheel with larger teeth? Thanks for any help!

What brand/type of coils did you end up putting back in Box? I only ask because I'm using their smart coils on my own build, a Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX. And actually having symptoms very similar to what you were experiencing.