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Skylinekrille

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  1. Thanks ill do that. Yeah ive watched the video but i never seemed to get the right data input/output myself. Going to try make a stream for lambda also Thansk again
  2. sorry for very late followup on this. It showed up some sensible, only thing thats wrong is the decimal, like it says 2450 degrees, when its 245, i tried to change some data, but im lost =)
  3. Sure no problem, here they are, tried some stuff so could look abit off at the moment. If its not to much trouble while your at it can you make streams for Internal Lambda 1 and 2 also? regards Christian SupraLS.CMG SupraLS.pclr
  4. Im trying to add more data to the stream, but at the moment i am stuck, im using Link G4 thunder, and i want to send the thermouple data 1 and 2 to the dash, ive checked the video on how to set up custom data frames and such, but i seem to missing something cause i get up very wrong numbers on the dash2pro, i have added a data stream, and added a frame inside, and put in the 2 thermocouple streams wich is 16bit wide, what im unsure of is the divider and offset, in the test calculator it says divider 10 and offset is 1000, here is where im stuck in the dash2pro setup i use the Exah1 and Exah2 and reconfigure them to the adress (1200) wich i set the CAN ID to in the LINK, and put in the first data starting from byte 0 to 15 and the other from from 16 to 31 and choose the Motorola seq for byte order, not sure if this it right either? and also put in 10 as scale and 1000 the dash displays very wrong numbers. so not sure what im doing wrong?
  5. Tried some different wiring now, it seems like i can't use the blackbox for engine control. So ill just make it simple and use standard relays wiring, have used up to much time with this annoying problem now. I could use a big relay to the blackbox main feed i guess but it will render it completely useless since I also wanna controll fans, waterpp, lights and wipers with it without having the ignition switch On. In curious in that case if i should use the Main relay control function built into the Thunder ecu, or just go with standard main relays and sub relays controlled by ignition trigger? Or is this function mainly for use with Ecu hold power function?
  6. I can try that. It feels like everything probably shuts down if I do that. Since the kill switch kills the power to the blackbox. Will try it later today, if this is the problem i guess the relays inside the blackbox are to sensitive and holds the circuit ON even at low voltage maybe. Also gonna get som standard relays and just run it without the blackbox.
  7. The coils are LS1 style with 4 pins, and in using 1 relay to feed 4 coil packs each from the black box, also 1 relay is programmed to switch to gnd to control the fuel pumps, and 1 gnd, 1 signal GND, and then its the 8 wires from the Ecu, again these are disconnected due to troubleshooting. The full system when connected consists in 3 temp sensors, water, oil and intake air. 1 tps, 1 map sensor, 2 MAC boost solenoids, 1 crank trigger and 1 cam trigger, cam triggers are getting 8v feed, and map and tps 5v feed. 2 pressure sensors for oil and fuel Wired to AN volt inputs. Injector test and ignition test were all OK. Haven't tried in a few days but the engine runs fine if i crank it up and start.
  8. I tried using a separate relay to just feed the ECU, but got the same problem, thinking if just making a relay board with 1 big main relay controlling smaller ones thats feeding injectors, etc. I use some relays on the Blackbox for controlling lights, steering, fuel pumps (disconnected atm) and so on, Most runtime values seems fine, only thing i can notice is weird is that Aux 11, 12, 14 and 15 shows "Open circuit" but they are not even wired into the connector. And are shut off under AUX settings
  9. Made a quick diagram, not sure made it right tho. just of the injector part and the boost solenoids, hence i have diconnected the solenoids now. Didnt bother to put out the fuses, but i have the ECU wired threw a fuse, And i am not running the ECU threw the relay box at the moment, cause if i manage to start as its acting at the moment i wont be able to shut it off since i want the ECU to be connected to the kill switches 2nd feed apart from the alternator current.
  10. Ive tried to disable and also unplugg everything connected to the aux, only using a few at the moment for lile 2 boost solenoids, its a pure drift car so not many gadgets. I can check the runtime values later, not at the car right now. I know if the ignition switch is On i have like 12-13 volt shown in pc link, if I turn of the switch so the injectors starts to click, it shows like 8 volt, only checked this quick cause I don't want the injectors to freak out Thinking if it's possible to use the Link main relay control output to the relays feeding the injectors and coils, if this would fix my problem? Or is it cause the Ron francis blackbox is messing things up? It has programmable relays that can either switch to +12v feed, or gnd, tho if you program a relay to switch to +12v, that output is grounded when Off. And if you program it to switch to Gnd, it has +12v when off.
  11. Running a V8 twin turbo using Thunder ECU along with a Ron francis blackbox. Using 1 relay for each coil pack bank, and 1 relay for the injectors. These relays are triggered by the ignition switch along with the G4 thunder Ecu, and also a Dash2pro. Whats happening is if i turn on the ignition switch everything fires up, if i then turn off the switch, there are some kind of +12v "back power" that keeps the ignition ON, and the injectors starts to click and i have to pull the main switch to kill everything, this is when the Ecu is plugged in, if i unplugg the Ecu its fine, and i get 12v att all injectors etc and i can turn the Ignition off. And i am not cranking at all also. in PC link everything looks fine from all sensors and all, ive runned several earth feeds both to the chassi and also the engine. Ive measured on the 12v ignition feed to the injectors and for some reason i get some kind of power from the injectors, not 12v, but around 8-9V and pulsing when the ignition switch is off. This small voltage tho holds the relay ON for some reason. I tried to unplugg everything and only connect 1 injector but same problem, of course only the injectors plugged in is clicking then. So im kind of out of ideas at the moment
  12. Confirmed now using trigger scope, The crank pulse when using LS Black trigger sensor with the 60-2 trigger wheel is weird, Managed to get a Grey sensor and got a proper trigger signal and its working fine.
  13. Quick question Can the Link G4 system make it possible to use the LS Black crank trigger sensor along with the 60-2 trigger wheel? Or do i need to get the LS grey trigger sensor
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