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James c

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  1. James c

    G4+ Atom adding boost

    After looking at this further it appears I will have to use a vacuum block and tap into each intake runner after the throttle butterfly's in order to get a vacuum signal. I guess that's one downside of using individual throttle bodies instead of one throttle body. Does anybody have experience with this? Is the vacuum signal created the same or weaker? Is there any other potential problems I might come across, Tuning difficulties etc.? All other parts that require a vacuum will also have to go to the vacuum block like wastegate, bov etc.
  2. Quick question, I have a link g4 Atom (not the current black version but the one before) and I'm using a TPS and IAT sensor to run a zetec engine with jenvey itbs. Its running sequential injection and waste spark. I'm toying with the idea of adding a turbo to the engine and have sorted out a custom plenum to work with the itbs, while making the plenum I was thinking about adding provisions in the plenum for a MAP sensor and then started to wonder is the Atom capable of using both TPS and MAP at the same time, plus IAT? By adding the MAP to the plenum I don't need to try make a vacuum block etc as pressure will be constant across all ports. I see Link supply a MAP that has IAT incorporated. Would this be the best idea or keep them separate? Is there any other sensors I should be considering when adding a turbo? Boost control? Best type of MAP for my application? Any help would be much appreciated.
  3. The second startup sweep all takes place before I even start cranking so I don't think its related to the starter drawing all the current. There is two large earth straps front the engine to chassis with good connections. Starter has no problem spinning the engine over. When you turn the key to ign the pump primes and the tacho goes up to 7, its sits there until the pump stops priming then drops to zero, few seconds later just the tach needle goes back to 7, then I crank the engine. With the laptop plugged in it appears that the ecu stays online the entire time this is happening. Yesterday I primed the fuel system and watched the pressure gauge. It sits on around 45psi while priming but I noticed as soon as the pump stopped priming it was dropping to 30psi. I fitted a one way valve near the pump and this has fixed that issue. Now after priming its holding around 40psi instead of 25 to 30psi. This has definitely had a positive effect on how it starts and reduced cranking time. I will record a log when I get a chance for you guys to take a look at and see if you can see any areas that need attention.
  4. Can I do a log with the Atom?
  5. Thanks for your help I will fit a valve and see what happens. Any suggestions on the best place in the system to fit? Right after the pump or up at the rail? I was under the impression the pump has a non return valve fitted as standard. Its a deatschwerks pump.
  6. I have a gauge fitted to the regulator so I will take a look if its dropping tonight. I don't have any one way vavles currently fitted but have one from a previous system I could try.
  7. When starting my engine if I turn the key to acc and allow the fuel pump to prime, at the same time the Tacho will go to the set rpm shift point (7000rpm for example) then drop to zero. Shortly after this it will then return to the shift point (7000rpm) then I will start the car. It seems to crank for longer than expected before starting. However as I stumbled across the other day. If I let the fuel pump prime and then start as soon as it stops priming it will start nice and quick. What I would like to know is could there be a setting which is disabling the spark or injectors momentarily after the start procedure (fuel pump prime and tacho) Thanks
  8. Perfect. Thanks for your help
  9. Hi link. I'm looking to add a dash mounted micro USB tune port to my car for easy access. The port on the g4 + atom i have is a female micro USB. Can you supply a male to female micro USB lead to do the job with a bulkhead style mount? I've had a search on Google and they appear to go from micro to USB bit not micro to micro. Failing that I might try make my own.Any help would be much appreciated. Thankd
  10. Ok I just had a play around with the warm up enrichment thinking it may have been wanting more fuel at idle but adding more made it worse so I leaned it out and it seemed to run better. If its getting to much mixture correction at cold idle do you think this would cause the idle to be down? Take a look at the warm up enrichment table and see if it looks to aggressive to you. Cheers
  11. Hi Cam Attached is my pcl file but I have also attached a pic of my idle control table. I made some changes in here but it didn't seem to have any effect on idle speed. Can you see anything wrong with it?
  12. I increased the trigger arming threshold by a small amount on the 0 and 1000rpm columns and it has fixed the issue. The starter now spins freely as it should with no kick back. Thanks a lot for the advice Brad. Such an easy fix when you know what to do. One other thing I was going to ask is what's the best way to make the idle stay constant on a cold start. Currently the car will idle when stone cold but at around 7 to 800rpm which is a bit low for a cammed engine. As soon as it starts to warm up its fine and idles at around 1000rpm. If I could keep it at 1000rpm all the time regardless of temp that'd be good. Cheers
  13. No I haven't touched the trig threshold yet. I will try that today. It will never be cranking over 1000rpm so you think I could just adjust the 0 and 1000rpm columns?
  14. Hi Brad Attached is the PCL file. Currently ignition timing at cranking speed (500rpm) is 16 degrees. I have moved this down in various increments but the engine becomes harder to start if its firing to close to TDC. If it stayed at 16 while cranking it would start great but using a timing light I can see it moves around a lot until it starts and the starter is released then the timing is nice and solid. Let me know what you think. Tune MK2 Escort.pcl
  15. Hi link forum. I posted a previous thread to do with hard starting/starter kickback on a Zetec engine running a link atom. After some good advice we came to the conclusion the crank sensor polarity was incorrect which it was and this improved the situation greatly. However it still had the odd time were it would kickback on the starter so today I put the timing light back on it and while cranking there is still spark scatter. Once running the timing is solid as a rock. My thoughts are that it's getting interference from the starter while cranking which is upsetting the signal. Looking in to this matter it appears that others have experienced the same issue just under cranking and there is mixed opinions about how the shielded cable should be terminated. Mine appeas to go to an earth on the block but a lot of people say the shielding needs to earth back to the ecu earth? Any thoughts on this? At this point I'm considering using a crank pulley triggering system to take the sensor/cable right away from the starter area. Apparently even ford had this issue in early production of these engines and that's why in the series two engines the starter was moved to the oposite side of the motor. Any help would be much appreciated. Cheers
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