James c

Wired it up as you suggested, and it works perfectly. Thanks again for your help.

Thanks I will give this a try, I was trying to do it switching the DI on level low and didn't consider this way.

Hi Vaughan Also if I use an ignition switched power supply the LED is on in both states (switch latched or not) Is it possible to configure an ECU output to power the LED positive wire or switch to earth when DI1 is grounded. If so, what output would be suitable for this. I have used all my AUX outputs but being that the car is running waste spark I think I still have 2 x aux ignition outputs. Not sure if these can be configured that way. Cheers

Hi I have just configured 2 boost tables (high and low boost) and setup DI 1 as the pin to do the switching. I purchased a latching switch from billet buttons. These can be used as normally open or normally closed. I have wired it up normally open and when latched in it sends DI1 to ground and switches tables...all pretty straight forward. Were I'm having trouble is it also has a LED light that I would like to come on when the button is pushed in. The LED requires 12v and a ground but doesn't have its own switch (the earth can be tied into the NO, NC part of the switch to do this). If I tie the LED earth into the DI side the light is on all the time when the ECU is OFF and the same thing if I tie it to the other side of the switch which makes sense as that's a ground. Is the LED finding a ground through the ECU when its OFF and can I add a diode into the DI wire so that current can only flow one way and prevent it back feeding through the ECU. I think these switches are normally used in this way with a relay which makes it easy, but I don't require a relay as it is using the pullup resistor (low amps) If I can use a diode in the DI wire any ideas on which one to use. Regards

Thanks I didn't see that.

Looking to connect my Atom g4+ to an android based realdash using the tune cable with usb adaptor but in the Link settings there is no Datastream mode? Any ideas.

Hi Adam I downloaded the file and all is good, the car is running although still needs to be dialed in which I will get done as soon as I can. Thanks again. One question I have is I had a look at the AFR/Lamba target table and noticed that there is compensation happening in the negative values as well (i.e. when the engine is not seeing positive pressure but vacuum) My question is does this mean its compensating in these areas of the Map and should I configure a AFR target table that only starts at say 10 or 20kPa for example? I also noticed that on the over run I'm getting a lot of back firing so its obviously going quiet rich during this time. Regards

Thanks so much for your help.

Adam I have updated the firmware to v5 5.6.7 I didn't realise it was so out of date otherwise I would have done it sooner. Did you make any progress with adapting the existing tune? Aside from rechecking the trigger calibration is here anything else I should consider after the update? Regards

Hi Adam The switched DI1 map was setup for two different length intake trumpets. I never really used it however it is still setup that way. Yes the injectors are still the same....they will be upsized at a later date once the boost gets turned up. The map sensor is connected to AN Volt 3 and its a 3.0 bar sensor from NZ EFI. 20kPa=0.3V, 300kPa=4.752V With regards to the AFR target table, I don't run a oxygen sensor so this wont work right? Thanks

Hi All I have a 2litre ford zetec engine fitted in rwd configuration to my vehicle. It was previously configured and mapped by an engine tuner. The engine was in NA form, running jenvey throttle bodies and using alpha n tuning. TPS, Waste spark, cam and crank sensor, sequential injection, intake air temp and water temp. The ECU is a Atom G4+. I have now dropped the compression, added a common intake plenum(still running the Jenveys), 3bar Map sensor, turbo , intercooler , rising rate reg etc. It has a 7psi wastegate spring installed and no boost control at this stage. Basically I want to know what changes I should/could make to the map so that I can run in the engine pre getting it on the dyno so the tuner can do his thing. Does anybody have a zetec turbo base map I could use? Or a Map that would suffice (effectively its just a 2litre twin cam turbo) I understand what I'm asking is not ideal in a number of ways but now I'm faced with at least 4 weeks before I can get it on a dyno and thought it was worth a try. On the other hand is it safe to run the N/A tune with the intercooler charge pipe disconnected as not to give the engine positive pressure. I have attached the current pcl file Any help/thoughts would be appreciated. Regards Zetec .pcl

Thanks for that Richard. Is there a preferred method for splicing into the wire or a connector I can use to do so? Or would you suggest I remove the ECU pin and try to crimp two wires into a new terminal pin?

Hi I'm adding a 3 Bar MAP Sensor to my existing Link atom ECU but have a few questions. The car is currently using the +5V Power out for the TPS sensor. I want to retain the TPS as the vehicle is running individual throttle bodies. As the Atom only has one +5v Output how can I supply +5v to both sensors? The MAP sensor requires a ground. Does this need to run back to the ECU or can I ground to a suitable spot on the engine block for example? I have a spare 0 to 5Volt analog input on the ECU so I can just run the sensor signal OUT into this and configure the ECU to suit? Thanks

After looking at this further it appears I will have to use a vacuum block and tap into each intake runner after the throttle butterfly's in order to get a vacuum signal. I guess that's one downside of using individual throttle bodies instead of one throttle body. Does anybody have experience with this? Is the vacuum signal created the same or weaker? Is there any other potential problems I might come across, Tuning difficulties etc.? All other parts that require a vacuum will also have to go to the vacuum block like wastegate, bov etc.

Quick question, I have a link g4 Atom (not the current black version but the one before) and I'm using a TPS and IAT sensor to run a zetec engine with jenvey itbs. Its running sequential injection and waste spark. I'm toying with the idea of adding a turbo to the engine and have sorted out a custom plenum to work with the itbs, while making the plenum I was thinking about adding provisions in the plenum for a MAP sensor and then started to wonder is the Atom capable of using both TPS and MAP at the same time, plus IAT? By adding the MAP to the plenum I don't need to try make a vacuum block etc as pressure will be constant across all ports. I see Link supply a MAP that has IAT incorporated. Would this be the best idea or keep them separate? Is there any other sensors I should be considering when adding a turbo? Boost control? Best type of MAP for my application? Any help would be much appreciated.

The second startup sweep all takes place before I even start cranking so I don't think its related to the starter drawing all the current. There is two large earth straps front the engine to chassis with good connections. Starter has no problem spinning the engine over. When you turn the key to ign the pump primes and the tacho goes up to 7, its sits there until the pump stops priming then drops to zero, few seconds later just the tach needle goes back to 7, then I crank the engine. With the laptop plugged in it appears that the ecu stays online the entire time this is happening. Yesterday I primed the fuel system and watched the pressure gauge. It sits on around 45psi while priming but I noticed as soon as the pump stopped priming it was dropping to 30psi. I fitted a one way valve near the pump and this has fixed that issue. Now after priming its holding around 40psi instead of 25 to 30psi. This has definitely had a positive effect on how it starts and reduced cranking time. I will record a log when I get a chance for you guys to take a look at and see if you can see any areas that need attention.

Can I do a log with the Atom?

Thanks for your help I will fit a valve and see what happens. Any suggestions on the best place in the system to fit? Right after the pump or up at the rail? I was under the impression the pump has a non return valve fitted as standard. Its a deatschwerks pump.

I have a gauge fitted to the regulator so I will take a look if its dropping tonight. I don't have any one way vavles currently fitted but have one from a previous system I could try.

When starting my engine if I turn the key to acc and allow the fuel pump to prime, at the same time the Tacho will go to the set rpm shift point (7000rpm for example) then drop to zero. Shortly after this it will then return to the shift point (7000rpm) then I will start the car. It seems to crank for longer than expected before starting. However as I stumbled across the other day. If I let the fuel pump prime and then start as soon as it stops priming it will start nice and quick. What I would like to know is could there be a setting which is disabling the spark or injectors momentarily after the start procedure (fuel pump prime and tacho) Thanks

Perfect. Thanks for your help

Hi link. I'm looking to add a dash mounted micro USB tune port to my car for easy access. The port on the g4 + atom i have is a female micro USB. Can you supply a male to female micro USB lead to do the job with a bulkhead style mount? I've had a search on Google and they appear to go from micro to USB bit not micro to micro. Failing that I might try make my own.Any help would be much appreciated. Thankd

Ok I just had a play around with the warm up enrichment thinking it may have been wanting more fuel at idle but adding more made it worse so I leaned it out and it seemed to run better. If its getting to much mixture correction at cold idle do you think this would cause the idle to be down? Take a look at the warm up enrichment table and see if it looks to aggressive to you. Cheers

Hi Cam Attached is my pcl file but I have also attached a pic of my idle control table. I made some changes in here but it didn't seem to have any effect on idle speed. Can you see anything wrong with it?

I increased the trigger arming threshold by a small amount on the 0 and 1000rpm columns and it has fixed the issue. The starter now spins freely as it should with no kick back. Thanks a lot for the advice Brad. Such an easy fix when you know what to do. One other thing I was going to ask is what's the best way to make the idle stay constant on a cold start. Currently the car will idle when stone cold but at around 7 to 800rpm which is a bit low for a cammed engine. As soon as it starts to warm up its fine and idles at around 1000rpm. If I could keep it at 1000rpm all the time regardless of temp that'd be good. Cheers