Jump to content

James c

Members
  • Posts

    39
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by James c

  1. No I haven't touched the trig threshold yet. I will try that today. It will never be cranking over 1000rpm so you think I could just adjust the 0 and 1000rpm columns?
  2. Hi Brad Attached is the PCL file. Currently ignition timing at cranking speed (500rpm) is 16 degrees. I have moved this down in various increments but the engine becomes harder to start if its firing to close to TDC. If it stayed at 16 while cranking it would start great but using a timing light I can see it moves around a lot until it starts and the starter is released then the timing is nice and solid. Let me know what you think. Tune MK2 Escort.pcl
  3. Hi link forum. I posted a previous thread to do with hard starting/starter kickback on a Zetec engine running a link atom. After some good advice we came to the conclusion the crank sensor polarity was incorrect which it was and this improved the situation greatly. However it still had the odd time were it would kickback on the starter so today I put the timing light back on it and while cranking there is still spark scatter. Once running the timing is solid as a rock. My thoughts are that it's getting interference from the starter while cranking which is upsetting the signal. Looking in to this matter it appears that others have experienced the same issue just under cranking and there is mixed opinions about how the shielded cable should be terminated. Mine appeas to go to an earth on the block but a lot of people say the shielding needs to earth back to the ecu earth? Any thoughts on this? At this point I'm considering using a crank pulley triggering system to take the sensor/cable right away from the starter area. Apparently even ford had this issue in early production of these engines and that's why in the series two engines the starter was moved to the oposite side of the motor. Any help would be much appreciated. Cheers
  4. James c

    BMW e34 link ecu

    No I don't but I could probably get it. Do you have it for the e36 ecu side of things?
  5. James c

    BMW e34 link ecu

    Hi. I'm looking into turboing my e34 BMW m50 engine and was wondering weather anyone knows if the link plug n play e36 ecu for the m50 would plug straight in and run the e34. I know the engines are the same but im unsure if the loom/ pin outs are the same. ?? This would obviously make everything a lot easier.
  6. You think I should get it tuned again? I don't have equipment to check for knock apart from my ears. It runs on 98octane.
  7. Just an update, I have switched the crank sensor polarity and recalibrated the base timing and what a difference. I have moved the 500 to 700 rpm back up to 10degrees and it starts beautifully. No stalling at all. Thanks Adam you were right on the money and thanks Scott for your help to. Much appreciated
  8. I am going to swap them and see what happens. The car was wired and setup by a well known tuning shop so I would have expected it to be right but I guess there's always the element of human error. I unplugged the sensor and the black trigger 1 wire is to earth according to information I have found so it is looking that way. Im just puzzled as to how it can run great in all other areas. The other thought I had was weather it's getting electrical interference from the starter motor which is mounted right next to the cps. The cable does appear to be screened though.
  9. Would the car run fine with the crank sensor wired the wrong way around because apart from the starting issue it runs really well and makes good power.
  10. Hi Adam I have done a hot compression test and it resulted in 130psi across all 4 which I put down to valve overlap from the cams so this has eliminated to much cranking compression. I just put a timing light on it and when cranking the timing is all over the place. What causes this scatter? I think your on to something. Cheers
  11. Yes it's a 36-1 trigger and running waste spark. They have no timing marks from factory so all I have is a TDC mark on the pulley to work off. Cranking rpm seems normal. Not sure if the missing teeth are away from TDC but the teeth are part of the flywheel which can only go on one way so they should be as per factory. It will start but it doesn't like to do so with any amount of timing in it and is worse when hot which I put down to the fact that there's even more compression when hot plus possibly some starter heat soak. If I crank it then give it some throttle which obviously adds timing it will stall the starter.
  12. Hi Scott. Thanks for your help. I have added a few more columns ( 400 and 700rpm) and it will crank freely and eventually start but it's a bit of a loose loose situation because it won't fire quickly due to the fact the timing is so retarded. As soon as I go over 2degrees it starts to stall the starter. Not to sure how to overcome this considering the starter is already a high tourqe unit.
  13. Thanks for your reply. Could you elaborate on how to do this as I don't quiet understand ? Keeping in mind that I still need it to start under 1degree timing when the engine is at operating temp as well. Cheers
  14. Hi. I have a high compression zetec race engine (12.0:1 ) that is very prone to starter kickback. It has a high tourqe starter and new battery etc but the only way I can get it to crank freely is to drop the 0 to 500rpm and 500 to 1000 rpm timing to 1degree. It then spins nicely and will start but the trouble is when it's cold idling it runs in this rpm range and with +1 degree timing it obviously won't idle very well. Once warmed up its above this rpm range (1000 to 1500rpm is 16degree timing) and it runs nicely. Is there a separate setting for start timing that doesn't use the main map? This way I could have start timing at 1 degree and the main map at around 10degree in the 500 to 1000 window.
×
×
  • Create New...