Speedpro

I've been quiet as I blew it up. I could hear the valves start to float and kept running it up to that point. Eventually a pair of exhaust valves dropped and did a job on the motor. That was 1.5 years ago more or less. I now have it rebuilt with new cases, cut crankshaft, new cut head, and a thousand other little changes. Ran it up on the dyno without the turbo and it was running a lot better now that the installed height of the valve springs is correct. It's the old story, if you want something done right - do it yourself. There is a little problem getting the head gasket to seal properly but apart from that it seems sweet. The 2nd run in the video just runs into the 18,000rpm rev limit at the end of the run.

Have now fitted the original rotor with the long tooth cut back to the same as the other 3. I made a shaft to check the rotor balance and it was way off before I did anything. I've now got it balanced just by spinning it on the shaft between a couple of bearings. Had a bit of dyno time over a couple of sessions. Last time fitted a new dump pipe and found we'd lost a bit of horsepower. In the end figured that the wastegate must have been sticking and in the process of working on the pipe I must have freed it up. Had a mate hold the wastegate closed with a screwdriver and got all the horsepower back plus a bit more. Got a final reading of 30.35rwhp at 19psi boost. It was leaning out a bit above 13,000rpm and checking the log the injectors were running out of time. Have now fitted a rising rate fuel pressure regulator and a simple wastegate bypass bleed. I'll get a proper boost controller valve and run it off the ECU but time is short so keeping it simple at the moment. Hopefully will be able to get it back on the dyno.

I expect this problem will only effect one cylinder so will carefully mark the rotor in 2 locations and look for a difference when running.

Original bike sensor is a 2 wire reluctor. Due to the amount of work to change the tooth length and rebalance the rotor, or to add a 2nd ring of teeth with 6 even size teeth I decided to give it a go with the stock rotor and the 4 teeth, 1 of which is longer. All trailing edges are separated by 90'. After setting the base timing to 0' by simply spinning the engine by hand and adjusting the base timing to get the marks to line up, I put the plugs back in, fitted the fuel pump fuse, and gave the back wheel a pull in 3rd gear. It fired up first time and runs just sweet. Warms up like normal, blips like normal, and just on the stands is happy up to 15,000rpm.

yes The rotor is off the original 4 cylinder motor. I presume the longer tooth on the rotor identified which pair of cylinders was where. As suggested by Link i fitted a 1-tooth disc to one cam and a 6 tooth disc to the crank. A mate has fitted a multi-tooth piece to a rotor on his bike but his engine has more space for pickups and is never going to rev as hard as I hope to get this one going. I'm only thinking of putting the rotor back on as I'm pretty sure I will need an electricity supply

I'm still waiting for parts to make a spring tester. I want to compare my spare head valve seat pressure versus the head on the bike. I'm trying to avoid dismantling the engine. Apart from that I have measured the current draw when running the engine. Surprisingly it ramps up as revs rise. I haven't tried it on the dyno yet but it looks like the current draw is going to be more than even a Lithium battery is going to supply for a reasonable time. which means I'm going to have to remove the 6-tooth trigger disc off the crank and refit the generator rotor. The generator rotor only has 4 teeth on it, one of which is much longer than the other 3. All 4 trailing edges line up so my question is, what edge is the important one, leading or trailing, and will the longer tooth cause any problems. Link told me at the start to use a 6-tooth disc but with the current draw I need to generate electricity. It's either refit the alternator rotor and use it's trigger arrangement or fabricate a remote mounted alternator.

I have noticed the "Engine Speed (RPM) Trigger Data flash yellow when the problem happens. I took this to indicate that a limit was being reached in the ECU. The throttle bodies are the same size as the original CV carbs so airflow shouldn't be a problem. When I removed the plenum it obviously improved airflow but the rpm limit remained the same. Valve bounce has been suggested but the engine revved cleanly with the carbs and GSXR250 ignition. I am going to try editing the rpm limit table to 18,000rpm in every cell. It is obviously having some effect as it indicates an RPM limit, as below at 7000. In my case it was 12,000. I changed the associated table entry to 18,000rpm then disabled RPM limiting. the RPM Limit was now 18,000rpm

Ooookay. Been running the engine on the inertial dyno. Main fuel map is TPS/RPM, turbo has been removed and a simple 2:1 exhaust fitted, cut the number of columns and rows down in the table and letting the software sort it out which it seems to be doing just fine. It sure makes tuning easy. This has been done to ease finding a rpm limit problem. Equation Load source is still BAP/MAP but I have disabled the 4D map. My problem is that the engine is being RPM limited. Towards the end of a run on the inertial dyno as it gets to about 15-16,000 rpm it starts to richen up and then gets real rich real quick. I have ALL the engine protection turned off but it is still doing it. Just sitting in the garage the Engine Protection page on the tuning screen is indicating a rev limit of 12,000rpm. When I turn on RPM limiting and look at the table it does have a limit of 12,000rpm at 20'. If I change the rpm limit it also changes what is indicated on the Engine Protection page. When I was first looking at the software I did enter values in the RPM limit table. In this case I have put 16,000rpm limit at 100'. This is the temp I am running, more or less, and that it where it seems to be limiting, even with RPM limiting disabled. Is there something else which enables RPM limiting and why does it indicate a rich AFR? With either ignition cut or fuel cut it should indicate a lean AFR(more oxygen), surely? As a workaround I'll set the rpm limit to 18,000rpm across the board. I have a small intake plenum which the turbo fed. It has a reasonably small inlet. I left it on after I removed the turbo to lessen the risk of something going down the intakes. This resulted in the red line on the graph below. I had to increase the fuel a bit. Chasing the rpm limit and eliminating possible causes I removed the plenum. This made it lean and required about 30-50% bigger numbers in the fuel map. This resulted in the blue line. The green line is with the turbo fitted and running about .4bar boost. Slowly getting there but I really want to be able to fully rev this thing, that's why I built it.

Now set to MAP/BAP x-over, main fuel table axis is TP, 4D table activated with MGP on the axis. Very quick run as it's still leaking oil and it starts and runs fine up to about 5000rpm,which is as far as I went, and 20% throttle. The target lambda is just a number I put in. I'll run it on the inertia dyno and see what it actually likes and enter that value. The turbo is an IHI RH31B which is about as small as it gets but I don't see it being restrictive. I'm leaning toward tuning the main fuel table on the inertia dyno to have values which work for a dynamic engine state. If I do it on the rolling road brake the turbo will spool up fully for that load and need more fuel to match. In reality it is more likely to be less than fully spooled up, be flowing less air and need less fuel, in normal operation. I'll tune the 4D table using the rolling road at fixed loads as once you get to boost it'll just vary the MAP/MGP value. Maybe. Thanks for checking it over

I've just been through setting up an Ecotrons ALM on mine. It might be obvious but make sure the output from your sensor is the same at each AFR as what the engine management expects for that exact same AFR. The ALM has a handy test function where you tell it what AFR to simulate. The Link should indicate the same value if the calibration is correct

Thanks, I've been leaning to MAP over BAP. The other thing I have a concern about is the vacuum lines to the MAP sensor. Having individual throttle bodies I combine lines from each port and then have a longer hose to the sensor. I was thinking about either a small canister or a longer/fatter hose to provide smoothing of the pulse. It'll be a balance smoothing and lag. I'm interested in a small class of bike racing. The 4-stroke limit used to be 125cc but there were no decent engines around when I started this. I scored an FZR250 4 cylinder and using a mates bandsaw and my own little lathe cut cylinders 1&2 off, cut the crank and cams and eventually got it running with carbs and a GSXR ignition. The sound with open pipes at full noise on the dyno gave me shivers. I also had a supercharger and turbo. The turbo was chosen simply because I could fit it with the gear I had in the garage. I also found that an Ecotrons EFI for a Kawasaki GPz250 plugged straight in. Disappointingly, despite me asking and getting assurances, this system was limited to about 15,000rpm and even then I think it wasn't handling it well. So it's a 125cc twin cylinder, 4 valves per cylinder, DOHC, watercooled, turbocharged, full engine management engine. It ran to 19,000rpm on the dyno with the carbs. With the Ecotrons system it was making boost from about 10,000rpm so quite useful range if it would rev out.

I've got this thing starting OK now but I can't get my head around a few things. There seems to be quite a delay with data being displayed on the laptop at times. "Setup Logging" can be slow and swapping between PC and ECU logging can be slow as well. It's probably my old laptop. Configuring gauges is slow to bring up parameters. The engine easily spins at 800rpm just turning over at start. From what I understand this means the starting enrichment jumps straight to "post start enrichment" then to "warm up enrichment". Making adjustments in these tables hasn't been having the effect I expect. I know this engine when using another system liked 3ms injector pw cold at start. I've cranked in bigger %s but without the increases I expected in pw. It'll start but is very sensitive to throttle while cold. It will happily idle at 2500rpm typically if that could have an effect Just starting out I'm not sure of the best basic setup. Currently using Traditional method which I'm happy with and the Equation Load source is MAP which I'm really unsure about and MAP vs RPM for the main fuel map. This seems to be easily tuned on my rolling road at fixed load points. However on the inertia dyno where nothing is steady I see problems. With a smaller throttle(25%) the AFR can go lean through load cells where if throttle is at 50-75% through the same cells the AFR is fine. This engine barely pulls any vacuum at anything under 5-6000rpm. The attached log files are from a run in the garage warming it up and looking for an oil leak. There also seems to be a regular cycle to the MAP reading which has a period of about .14s which doesn't seem to coincide with anything that could cause interference. In any case the ignition which would be the usual suspect runs along one frame rail and everything else is along the other. 12V is supplied by a car battery without a battery charger connected so a good stable supply. What I wonder about is changing the Equation Load source to BAP/MAP. I see a problem though where at a particular throttle setting the turbo could have spooled up but MAP may not have exceeded BAP so certain throttle settings may have different airflow rates dependent on the turbo, or have i missed something. The help files are good but I just can't see how that will work. Excuse the fuel map, we were playing and it's pretty lumpy. We parked it before we got anywhere with it due to the oil leak. Suggestions about where to look greatly appreciated. 18_4_2 FZR125 at home logging on.pclr 2018_4_2 ECU log.llg 2018_4_2 PC log.llg

Makes sense, thanks

I have a 180degree 4-stroke twin. The crank trigger disc has 6 evenly spaced teeth as suggested by Link. The cam trigger has a single tooth. I'm just setting it up and want to know the ideal position for the camshaft trigger in crankshaft degrees before or after TDC ignition for #1. Also is it measured to the leading edge of the tooth, trailing edge, or centred? The crankshaft trigger disc is mounted on the original alternator rotor hub. With 6 teeth and 6 mounting bolts and being keyed to the crankshaft it effectively is non-adjustable. Without precisely measuring the angle from the sensor the tooth approaching the sensor is about 20-30 crankshaft degrees away at #1 TDC. #2 fires 180 crankshaft degrees after #1. Using an Atom G4+ if it makes any difference. Thanks

Exactly what i wanted to know. Thanks