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About 1qwkmini

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  1. Thanks, I'll pass the email on to Jan(RMW)....but he should already know this stuff.
  2. I've gotten past the voltage drop issue...tested everything and I can't find anything causing the drop, so I will assume that this is normal on a Mini Cooper and it doesn't seem to shut down the ECU. Now another question: On the no start on refire....If I simply turn off the ignition key and try and refire, it simply won't start. If I however cycle the master power breaker (race car) and try to restart...it fires up just fine (maybe not as nice as from cold). Is there anything that may be setup on the ignition circuit that isn't getting turned off with the key that could be causing an error with the Vipec?? sensor or something? It may be something that is getting constant power that needs to be switched power. Any ideas appreciated. Could it be the Vipec unit?
  3. It's had a few different (known and tested) batteries in it and same thing happens. I'm working my way thru all possible tests today. Alternator---I completely disconnected it and same thing. When the car is running I have 14+ V. I've disconnected all possible high draw accessories with the same result. What I really need to know is if the momentary drop to 10.5ish Volts will cause a problem for the Vipec----because the car fires up great from a cold start....just not on a refire. It could be the way the Vipec is setup that is causing the Refire issue...but I need to be sure it's not the voltage causing the issue
  4. My battery voltage drops to 10.4-10.8 range for a split second and returns to 12+V when starting my Mini. Is that unusual and will it cause a problem with the Vipec (Voltage too low). I've been chasing this problem for a while now. The car starts fine from a cold start (even with the voltage drop). But has real difficulty refiring if it stalls or starting if the engine is partially warm. It tends to be easier to refire if I cycle the master power switch off and on again. BTW I know s*^t about setting up this thing (Jan from RMW set it up). I think it's time to find someone local to tune this thing. ANY THOUGHT/HELP APPRECIATED!
  5. That is what I referring to.....all I'm after is: 1-Aquamist failsafe automatically triggers base fuel table when the it runs out of meth but runs on a second fuel table tuned to 100%meth under normal conditions. Not problem there (as far as I know). 2-Ability to switch fuel tables (without needing to plug in a laptop)...essentially telling the Vipec that the Aquamist is out of fluid.
  6. It there a quick and easy way to install an external switch to control table switching?? Trigger default table with switch to use 50/50 meth and use the secondary table with the failsafe when running 100% meth.
  7. Can you use the ground wire (along with the signal wire) on the original O2 plug (Mini Cooper) or is it best practice to use a direct ground back to the ECU ground point? There some discussion/concern about the accuracy of the Wideband if any ground other than the ECU is used!!!
  8. For the Aqaumist failsafe---is it sending a signal to the ECU to turn on the secondary map and the signal stops when the tank is empty? Or does it send a signal to the ECU when the tank is empty. I'd like to put a switch in the failsafe circuit to cause the ECU to default to the primary map...trigger the failsafe (when I run a 50/50 mix but tune for no meth...just for a safety factor) and use the secondary map when I use 100% meth for competition.
  9. Can you piggyback the signal (yellow wire) from the MTX-L to supply a V88 or does it need a direct connection to O2 sensor? Signal to Vipec and still use the gauge in the dash just for quick reference!
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