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Nettlez

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Posts posted by Nettlez

  1. I have been trying to get my cold start AFR better recently but i am having an issue where it seems to be randomly very rich on start up for around the first 20 seconds of idle. At first i thought it was was one of the cold start fuel options but now its done it when the car was started when hot, i cant seem to find out what's adding the extra fuel. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Three log files attached, one from cold and it was fine, one from cold and it was rich and another which is from a hot start where it also starts up rich. Map also attached.

    Map:

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/10BY1Kj2YZTEjttQXEPMlpPSYCPeWdoUQ/view?usp=sharing

    Logs:

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PSsV-x_IvWJcXMF8F5qSgHaO0hzQZrit/view?usp=sharing

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aEfTNX-3fi92p2xpicav91T0UdFKPBzR/view?usp=sharing

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HAyWU3kHS-MmlR7LoZDOmnqC4n2AFoOS/view?usp=sharing

     

  2. I’m looking to put an check engine light into the dash for showing fault codes but currently I get a fault every time I hit the limiter which I don’t want.
     

    It says in the help that there’s possibly a “RPM limit fault code enabled” which can cause this, but I can’t seem to find it? 

     

    Is there a way to stop it from bringing up a fault when I hit the main RPM Limit?

     

    Thanks 

  3. So I have been setting up the advanced open loop wastegate values for multiple boost targets (to then go closed loop) but wondering how accurate you should expect to get on the road for just a road car before moving onto closed loop? I currently have them around +/- 5kpa 

  4. Thanks for the help chaps, I did all of the above to end up annoyingly with the same result. Ended up getting another idle control valve and that seems to have sorted it, even though it check out electrically ok so very strange. Now with the ignition more retarded on the overrun it does make quite a few more pops 

  5. So the car has started doing something weird where the first six seconds or so the engine revs really high on cold start with no throttle input for the first six seconds or so. I would be grateful if someone could look over the log and map to check I haven't done something wrong please. Other than that I'm presuming something must be wrong with the idle control valve

    log

    http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?file_id=84307726431083782805

     

    map

    http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?file_id=36513187506628764503

  6. So with the g4+ running in closed loop idle control there is an option for hold step. From the information in the help file I still don’t understand what this does? What does it do? What is an example of a hold mode? 

    Also what do the values in the startup step table represent? Is it a percentage of base position table or a multiplier? 

  7. Thanks Simon, I will take some more logs at higher rpm 

    I was comparing my engine rpm and engine speed roc to the one in the trigger error webinar and in the log he shows his roc barely goes above 250 yet mine is going way over 500 and my rpm curve is no way near as smooth? Which he mentions means I have trigger issues??

  8. So I have an issue with the RPM on the log jumping around at higher revs. The engine is a bmw m50 turbo and the original crank trigger wheels gap used to line up almost bang inline with the cam trigger so I have changed the crank trigger wheel for another to move the two apart, I hoped this would solve my issue but it hasn't.

    The two triggers are both vr type sensors. I have tried to setup my arming thresholds to suit a third of the voltage but anything past 2000rpm I need a value greater than 7 but the link g4+ ecu wont let me put a value in greater than 7. 

    I have noticed there is also another setting called trigger filtering but the help file doesn't give any clear information on when to use this, is this a setting I should try adjusting to help with my rpm jumping around? Is there anything else i can look at that could be causing this?

    The ignition timing I have seems to be a lot lower than others I can find in the internet which was another point towards trigger issues in the hp academy course

    I have attached a log, my map and a scope at idle

    any help appreciated

     

    log:

    http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?file_id=37506189993904150499

    Map:

    http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?file_id=46465854529146560910

    Scope @idle:

    http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?file_id=00069227142569558386

     

  9. So I have added two wheel speed inputs to the ecu. I have added non driven from the front wheels via the standard bmw e30 vr type wheel speed sensor with a calibration figure of 2350 to get the speed to be correct. Then the driven wheel speed sensor from the rear wheels via the differential sensor which then goes the instrument cluster which then as a digital output meant for the cruise control which is where I have wired the ecu too with a cal figure of 445.

    The driven wheel speed sensor works fine, reads wheel speed nice and low but the front one only reads as low as 24kph for some reason. I was hoping to use these inputs for boost by gear and traction control but im concerned it wont work properly with the non driven wheel speed input only working from 24kph.

    Any help with why its only working from 24 kph would be great

     

    log and map attached

    log

    http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?file_id=46770885959916795971

    map

    http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?file_id=21613664557330067144

  10. So I have the engine fan setup being controlled by the ecu via ect. I was wondering if it would be possible to use a timer to stop the fan coming on when the cars just started?

    Currently if I turn the car off when it’s a few degrees off the fan activation set point and leave it for a few minutes then come back and start the car the fan kicks in straight away as the ect is above the activation set point as it’s heat soaked.  But within say 10 seconds the water has been pumped round and it’s below the set point so it goes off. 

  11. On 4/25/2019 at 4:34 AM, cj said:

    Yes - the logged value is "idle postition (%DC)" 

    In my scribbled on screenshot below you can see that about 8-9 seconds into your log, your ECT is 89*C and the idle position at this time was just on 35%, so this value clearly works. 

    Based on this, i'd say change the current "30" in idle base table @90* to be "35" instead. As for what you do with the cells in the rest of the table, you should really just warm it up from 0/5/10/whatever ambient is near you, and without touching anything, just record the values that closed loop is using to get the idle you want, then put those into the base table. The quick and dirty way to get a good start point is take the 1x known value you now have, and follow the same pattern you currently have - eg same value from 70 up, adding 2-3 points every 10 deg below this. So yes, 80 and 100 would both also be 35.

    image.png.bbc8a08260f8285b6a11866266ecef60.png

    Just noticed my idle ignition control was set to 2000, should this be 1400 so it’s online with the idle speed control total? 

  12. 6 hours ago, Adamw said:

    It looks like some sort of trigger error, I know we have looked at your triggerscope before and said it looked ok but can you do another triggerscope at about 2000RPM.

    Here's a scope at 2k

    log warm 2.jpg

  13. So I have done a log of the car running but its recorded some errors in ignition dwell time.

    Its normally running around 3.5ms but I have a half an hour log which shows four occasions of really long ignition dwell times, some as long as 100ms.

    What could be causing this issue? Is this a problem?

    Here's the log

    http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?file_id=66416819174199940320

    Heres the map

    http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?file_id=91565145388537459141

  14. 6 hours ago, Adamw said:

    Accuracy and repeatability are two different things.  The absolute accuracy may not be too great as they probably dont go through any type of calibration check against a known standard at the factory but I would expect being a solid state device the repeatability to be good.

    Your dif fuel pressure seems to sit consistently around 295-300Kpa for the vast majority of your log, the only times it drops is when MAP increases so I think the sensor is reading fine and it is showing you have a control problem.  It could be a regulator issue or the pump not keeping up.  Note dif fuel press will never be dead flat, all regulators have a "gradient" and never control fuel press at exactly 1:1 with boost, however some are much better than others.  You are seeing about a 30kpa drop in differential for less than 100Kpa increase in MAP so that is worse than I would typically see.

    Right ok, I do have the ability to check the pressure sensor for calibration but I guess it doesn't matter if it reads spot on, just so long as the repeatability is good as that's what your actually monitoring.

    So just to clarify what I am looking for is as the map reading goes up I am looking for the fuel pressure reading to go up the same? So for example if at tick over map is 50kpa and fuel is reading 240kpa then when map is 150 the fuel should be around 340kpa?  If this is right how close should it be when varying?

    Or another way of working it out would be fuel pressure minus mgp and the result of that should pretty much stay the same regardless of map?

  15. So I have an issue with my fuel pressure no rising linearly with boost pressure. I am monitoring the fuel pressure with an AEM 100psi brass pressure sensor but I have since noticed they have a tolerance of plus or minus 3%, so 3 psi is 20kpa so that's a total tolerance of 40kpa. Does anyone have experience in using a bass one and noticed they aren't very accurate?

    I have attached a log, the fuel pressure is always out around 40kpa but then does vary more than this as well. So I am wondering if the fuel pressure sensor is just around 40kpa out (calibration wise) and then is varying by its tolerance rather than my fuel pressure regulator actually being no good?

    link for log

    http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?file_id=94442381336288492771

  16. 1 hour ago, cj said:

    I think Adam's first point around RPM lockout is probably going to fix it on its own. In that last log you can see the idle control taking over when you are at 2000rpm (58 sec) and its closing off the idle valve a whole lot over the next 5-6 seconds. It technically kicked in a couple seconds earlier but has a 2 second timer before it does anything. By the time you get to ~1000rpm where you want to idle, the idle valve has been closed from ~35 where it needs to be, down to ~11, which is clearly not a usable value. If idle control only had 2-400 rpm to work with, it would probably get through this within the 2 second decel timer, or at least not have time to do any real damage to the idle % number.

    Your idle base number for 90degC should also be 35 rather than 30. This will mean the closed loop control is having to do "less work" and may make it idle better shortly after startup (when CL hasnt done its learning thing yet). Because this value is so far off, I suspect you haven't done the open loop idle tuning process that you should really do before switching to closed loop. You can fudge this though by starting it from cold with CL on, logging idle % while it warms up, then taking the logged CL values and putting them into the base target table. Then extrapolate this table down to really cold numbers.

    So just to clarify for simple me, by logging idle % you mean idle position in the log parameter list? 

     

    Also by saying my base number for 90 degrees should be 35 does that mean that anything above that should also be 35? So 35 at 100 degrees? 

  17. Yeah I have done what Adam put and took it for a couple of drives and it seems loads better with just those few changes, it hasn’t stalled while driving. It been stalling on start up though, I have been reviving it a little for like 10 seconds then it’s fine.

    No I haven’t done the open loop idle tuning process, Im just running the map from when it was last time on the old engine, I will have to look into what you have said, fingers crossed it will improve it further with these changes! 

  18. 4 hours ago, Adamw said:

    I dont think the log shows it stalling so we may not be seeing the real cause, but a couple of things I notice: 

    1. ISC RPM lockout is set quite high @1500RPM, something like 400RPM would be more normal.  This lockout is added on to your target idle RPM, so if your target idle is 1000RPM and your lockout is 1500RPM, then the ecu will try to take over idle control at 2500RPM, closing the idle valve trying to bring the RPM down to target.  Also, the minimum clamp needs to be set to 15% on these valves.
    2. Your Aux 2 frequency is set to 100Hz (I notice our E36 base map is also), that seems lower than expected to me.  The last car I tuned with the bosch 3 wire valve I used 200Hz and had good control range. 
    3. There are some odd spikes of low ignition dwell recorded in the log.  This may indicate a trigger issue.  Can you do a triggerscope at idle.

     

    Thanks for the info I will try adjusting it. Yeah I uploaded the wrong log sorry, heres the right one, it nearly stalls then actually does stall

    http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?file_id=15704473844804950514

    Also heres a link to a scope at idle

    http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?file_id=05225190735803187576

    Thanks

  19. I have got an issue where the engine is stalling when coming to a junction, slow small drop in rpm and the engine just cuts out, it seems better when cold.

    The map is from my old engine which was a 2.8 m50 engine, this is now a forged 3.15 m50 engine with mainly a different intake cam, lower compression ratio and slightly bigger turbo

    I have tried upping the anti stall gain table for when hot considerably but no joy, I have also upped the other two idle gain tables a little but still no joy

    Any help would be greatly appreciated, I am currently trying to run the engine in as its a fresh build but this is making life difficult

    Here's the link to the log

    http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?file_id=02198640419418476795

    Current Map.pclr

  20. Yeah it has a tdc  so 0 degrees mark so I have marked that underneath onto the sump and wheel so I can see it with the light when it’s running.

    So I was trying to figure out how to mark 10 degrees on the wheel so I can make that mark on the wheel too so I could check it with it running rather than just cranking? 

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