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ClintBHP

Dealer
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Everything posted by ClintBHP

  1. ClintBHP

    E-throttle wiring

    You can indeed, you just need an aux out assigned for it to work, the down side of not having the relay is a bit of safety.
  2. As a general rule the peak current will be around 60% of the total draw in current found in ohms law, this is because we are not actually dealing with resistance but magnetec inductance and the solenoid coil will start making maximum magnetism well before coil saturation however the only way to really tell is to watch it with an oscilloscope. So in your case at 14v the current drawn in ohms law would be 5A like you said so 60% of that will be 3A and the hold current will be 25% of that figure 0.75A and the requirement will rise slightly as fuel pressure rises. So I would try 3A and 0.75A
  3. I would try changing the 12.4 here to something much lower like 1.5
  4. Absolutely use the multiplier function in the tacho setting.
  5. Hold speed means idle control is not active due to vehicle speed, I am guessing without the pclr file that you have your idle speed lockout set high at about 12mph Please upload your map file (pclr)
  6. Its all in PCLink, see pic attached Tacho is connected to AUX4 and Pin C9 If the car starts then you have a base map on the ECU however the base map is also available in the Base Maps folder.
  7. You have you trigger set to multi-tooth missing, you need to use multi-tooth only, you crank sensor has 12 teeth with none missing
  8. ClintBHP

    Question

    Fuel Pump: You don't want to run the FPCM, the goto mod is to cut the brown wire that goes to the FPCM from the fuel pump and bolt it to a good earth point. The FPCM only adds a resistor into the circuit at low speed but the unit itself adds some resistance to the circuit. To run 2 pumps you will need to run 2 new relay circuits with new thick gauge wiring from the battery, goto help and wiring for the circuit, I would suggest using 2 Aux Outs and switching the second one on above atmospheric pressure only. WG Solenoid : You can connect a MAC type valve to the original wiring and its already set up on the Link ECU side, the Link Boost Valve might be slightly cheaper and is the same type of valve. MAP Sensor: Yes its set for the Link 4 Bar Calibration no need to test, just check the pressure is correct with the engine stalled circa 100kpa MAP should = BAP. What is section 6.7 is as I don't have a copy of the manual.
  9. Need to remove it and power it on the bench, if your in the UK I can help.
  10. As long as ANTemp2 is working and set to Inlet like the base map you can just turn that ANTemp3 MAF Temp to OFF dont forget to goto ECU Settings and clear ECU fault codes.
  11. The ECU has internal Pullups on the ANTemp inputs, so you could try disconnecting the MAF, if the voltage goes up to 5v then the sensor is at fault, if not the input pin is shorted to earth somewhere.
  12. If your in the UK we stock genuine ones direct from bosh www.shopbhp.com I also notice that some big brand gauges are now supplied with non genuine sensors !
  13. Yes PCLink see attached picture for the settings. You can see all the runtime values by pressing F12 and selecting Analogue. You can clear faults once fixed by going ECU Settings and Clear ECU Fault Codes.
  14. ClintBHP

    VVT Table Setup

    I have found the tables to be fairly similar when changing between load types, in that it will want max advance around peak torque tailing off either side and at low load you can pull timing out with very little difference to power but some difference in fuel economy. I would swap to MGP matching the load cells to ones that are present in both the fuel and ignition map and tune from there.
  15. Its a temp sensor input, whats connected to AN Temp 3 ? and what are the error values ?
  16. Looks like a com port issue, check in windows device manager what com port you are connecting to and set that in PClink, you should be fine I have seen lots in boot mode where people dont read the dialogue box properly and dont power cycle the ecu when told to.
  17. The old 065 is not a good idea even if it does work (Link do not say its compatible but normally the IC used to run the 4.9's are backwardly compatible) , the 4.9 does not need calibrating and is much more accurate and reliable.
  18. I would not mess about with analogue inputs anymore, use a CAN based device like the CANLambda that way there is only digital communication from the controller to the ECU and no chance of any discrepancy of calibration.
  19. One of the great things about Link ECU's is that there are no Licenses, the features can be unlocked by simply upgrading your ECU which most good dealers will facilitate The Atom in particular simply does not have the hardware for more injector drivers on board, however if you want CLL then buy a CANLambda.
  20. I have done a few Pintos, Xflow's Lotus and BDA's here in the UK, shout if you need any help.
  21. If you sure the output is not working I would arrange a return to your dealer, if your in the UK your welcome to send it to us: www.shopbhp.com
  22. For the injector +14v line I take them back into the loom and use a glued heat shrink tyco splice to pull them back to the relay. 5v are fine to splice the same way. the grounds must be run separate to the grounding point on the engine.
  23. Try increasing RPM Lockout under Idle Speed Control.
  24. Try bumping it with one of the laptops with the issue, I bet its fine, will be magnetic interference from the Starter.
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