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ClintBHP

Dealer
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Everything posted by ClintBHP

  1. Any of the dealers in the list will have been vetted by Link, ring a few up and speak to them, see who makes the most sense to you.
  2. The 1K resistor and the Diode only apply to standard coil relays, use an SSR with the correct capacity to PWM direct from the Link ECU. The Link G4+ ECU already has protection built in to the AUX outputs so can drive a normal relay or solenoid without additional diodes.
  3. I am inn Kent, feel free to give me a call on 01474 850666 to discuss.
  4. Looking much better, now try this in the fuel map:
  5. You can just use the base map in PCLink for the Xtreme plug-in - if you have already wired it you will need to check and regonfigure the inputs and outputs on your ECU to match.
  6. Assuming you have the original ECU still running the car this is very straight forward, are you in the UK ?
  7. On a wasted spark setup it must have a grounded plug in each side of the coil as it’s one circuit, one plug flows ground to the tip and one tip to ground.
  8. So whoever mapped this almost certainly used a map from a car that idled at -55 can you change the axis on the fuel map as per this attached picture and report back:
  9. You are sill only pulling -10 to -20 vacuum, I would be expecting -50 you sure there is no leak after the butterfly? or the cams are timed correctly and do not have too much overlap. I idle speed is steadier, it seems its the idle ignition its responding to, I would pull some degrees out the idle ignition map on every site below 0, so -100 would be 6, -200 2, -300 -2, -400 -6 and -500 -10 keep the old settings as I am sure you still have a vacuum issue.
  10. Sounds like you are losing your ignition feed when you move the key to position 3, check for 12volt at the coil when cranking.
  11. You could check that with the ignition on but the engine not running that MAP = BAP It looks like when the ECU was mapped you were probably seeing around -50 MGP - Your now averaging -10 - so something is wrong or them cams have a lot of overlap. If something is wrong you need to fix it, if its the cams then you will need to switch to a TPS based strategy with MAP compensation, which will require a remap.
  12. Ok thats starting to look better, the main issue now seems to be that you have very poor vacuum, do you have a leak, or is the MAP sensor reading incorrectly ?
  13. You are limited on the Atom to 3 Analogue Inputs, AnVolt1 on Pin 17, AnVolt2 on Pin 22 and Anvolt3 on pin 33 However you are likely to have things already on these like throttle position & possibly a Map sensor. You can use any of these if spare.
  14. Was it running ok and just started doing this ? If not and you still setting up just try reducing the master fuel until the lambda becomes readable, but as I said your already down at 1ms.
  15. No you have an issue, it does not matter if you are 1.9ms or 2.7 AFR is <0.6 Stuck Injector or fuel pressure regulator.
  16. ClintBHP

    Evo Thunder Wiring

    You can also save a lot of messing about by connecting to the thunder and opening the EVO8 pclr Map file and downloading it to the ECU. Just go through the outputs and make your wiring to suit the map. Clint
  17. You are off the bottom of the gauge <0.6 Lambda, you also are only opening the injector for 1ms (1.9ms-1ms dead-time). So does the car run right if so the Lambda sensor is not working. If it is running bad then you either have an injector stuck open or your fuel pressure regulator has either split diaphragm and fuel is leaking down the vacuum hose or has stuck in max pressure position.
  18. ClintBHP

    1zz VVTI un-resonsive

    Awesome
  19. Ok that is better the next issue I want to resolve is the Closed Loop Lambda, right now you are not hitting your target AFR and the clamp on the CLL is always at -7% which means you are running rich all the time, approximately 8.2% rich. I would like you to change this from 7% to 15% and report back.
  20. clint@shopbhp.com but you would be better off to use dropbox and post link here so others can also help.
  21. Due to the same file having been ok before we would need a log file to see what has happened.
  22. I based 0.7 on your original file you uploaded, I just want to get rid of the steps in the table that are making your AFR drop, you will need to trim this depending if it goes rich or lean. You will probably end up with about 0.1 drop as your cells move right so you could also try 11=7.4 12=7.3 13=7.2 14=7.1 etc as long as you do not have the steps you have now, as soon as your dead times change your AFR is dropping through the floor.
  23. I said above "I would change the deadtime so 12, 13, 14 & 15 volts are the same at say 0.7ms" Your deadtimes are now: 0.741 0.591 0.496 0.49 0.489 Change them so they are all the same and you wont get the massive spikes in AFR you are seeing in your log, can you see where the deadtime changes the AFR drops massively. You then trim these settings so the AFR stays the same as your target as the voltage changes. You can see what box its taking the reading from as it highlights it in pink. By the way this isn't all of your issue but its not helping.
  24. Short answer: All injectors take an amount of time to open (and close) that needs to be known, this is commonly somewhere between 0.7 and 1ms at 14v. So so from a fast injector to a slow injector that’s 0.4ms difference. At idle when you may only have a 2ms plulse for ideal idle that 0.4v is 20% but higher up the Rev range it’s far less so will affect ARF much less. you should be able to maintain the same AFR no matter what the battery voltage, and that’s the reason your idle is bad your AFR is dropping into plug fouling territory.
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