ClintBHP

Awesome

Ok that is better the next issue I want to resolve is the Closed Loop Lambda, right now you are not hitting your target AFR and the clamp on the CLL is always at -7% which means you are running rich all the time, approximately 8.2% rich. I would like you to change this from 7% to 15% and report back.

[email protected] but you would be better off to use dropbox and post link here so others can also help.

Due to the same file having been ok before we would need a log file to see what has happened.

I based 0.7 on your original file you uploaded, I just want to get rid of the steps in the table that are making your AFR drop, you will need to trim this depending if it goes rich or lean. You will probably end up with about 0.1 drop as your cells move right so you could also try 11=7.4 12=7.3 13=7.2 14=7.1 etc as long as you do not have the steps you have now, as soon as your dead times change your AFR is dropping through the floor.

Just the ones that are currently below 0.7

I said above "I would change the deadtime so 12, 13, 14 & 15 volts are the same at say 0.7ms" Your deadtimes are now: 0.741 0.591 0.496 0.49 0.489 Change them so they are all the same and you wont get the massive spikes in AFR you are seeing in your log, can you see where the deadtime changes the AFR drops massively. You then trim these settings so the AFR stays the same as your target as the voltage changes. You can see what box its taking the reading from as it highlights it in pink. By the way this isn't all of your issue but its not helping.

Short answer: All injectors take an amount of time to open (and close) that needs to be known, this is commonly somewhere between 0.7 and 1ms at 14v. So so from a fast injector to a slow injector that’s 0.4ms difference. At idle when you may only have a 2ms plulse for ideal idle that 0.4v is 20% but higher up the Rev range it’s far less so will affect ARF much less. you should be able to maintain the same AFR no matter what the battery voltage, and that’s the reason your idle is bad your AFR is dropping into plug fouling territory.

what PDM . ?

Im not sure you mean autotune, I think you may mean closed loop Lambda Control which is under Fuel - Closed Loop Lambda Quicktune (Autotune) is on F10 but thats a tuning aid, you will need to set your AFR Target table up first. Reading all the help on this is a must before you do anything

Exactly what gauges do you have ?

Excellent well done Hussain

Let me know how you get on when this is corrected, I do a lot of work with lumpy cams and with a Link I can get them to run and idle fine, wont be a restriction of the ECU its all about using the logs to work out which maps to tweak.

You are quite rich there, have you tried tuning the table a little, I am assuming your on petrol/gasoline as your have 14.7 as Stoich, your dropping close to the 11's I would be surprised if your plugs are not black and misfiring. I also see that the main change in the map is injector deadtime, this looks very wrong as the idea is that as the battery voltage drops the speed of the injector changes and requires more opening time to keep the same AFR, however as soon as your deadtime changes you get dumped into 0.7 Lambda. I would change the deadtime so 12, 13, 14 & 15 volts are the same at say 0.7ms (doesnt matter for now if this is correct) then I would tune the map so you are targeting nearer 0.95 Lambda, then as the voltage drops trim the deadtime map so Lambda stays the same as when you tuned it.

I haver found correctly mapped VVTI can make a lot of difference. Glad you got to the bottom of the issue.

Most things nowadays are very configurable, I would still double check your dash is compatible as there are some rare exceptions and some oddities. You have 2 CAN bus ports free on the ECU, so you will be fine. I have Aim, Motec, Race Technology and many other dash type devices running happily. Don’t forget you can run a Windows Tablet as a dash, this although not optimal in some environments is very configurable and becoming very popular in some circles

Trig1 = Crank Trig2 = Cam PCLink is windows only: http://www.linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/ I would recommend buying a cheap Windows 10 Tablet from Amazon they work very well with PC Link

You can Tune, run a CAN Lambda and a Dash all at the same time The CAN is a Bus type network so you can run many CAN based accessories at one time, they just have a different ID, you just need to follow the installation instructions and make sure only the 2 devices at the end of the bus are terminated, all wiring should be twisted.

The Answers are Yes and Yes, but please reference the drawing in PCLink - Wiring Information - Power and Ground Wiring

Ok then they need to check they have it set to the correct AUX out, one side of the solenoid should have 14v and the other side should goto the Pin on the ECU that corresponds with the AUX output that is configured in the Link ECU. What ECU do you have ? All the outputs are short circuit protected and very rarely fail (I have never seen a failure) so I would think this is definitely a configuration issue rather than a hardware issue, however you can always move the VVT to one of the other AUX (needs to be AUX1 - AUX4) out to check if the driver has failed. BUT please get them to press F12 with the engine running and scroll to the right and select VVT and send you a picture of the screen so you can post it here.

A simple test anyone can do is with the engine stopped run an Aux out test on the valve and you will hear it click, if it does click then there is probably a mechanical issue with the engine; If it does not click then you have an ECU/Wiring issue. A more in depth test is to press F12 with the engine running and look at the actual VVT Data, which should show actual angles if the settings are correct.

I can’t remember what it looked like and I am away from my computer. Certainly it will be easier to tune when you get it stabilised, I am sure as I can be that it’s just a tuning issue and not a problem with the engine if that’s what you are looking for. It’s all about watching them logs and watch what it’s doing when it stalls, does it go too lean is there not enough timing, the logs will show.

No need to change the cold start stuff, they are a percentage of the calculated fuel pulse, which is calculated with both master trim and the content of the fuel table.

Look at Ignition - Idle Ignition Control its the lockout there we are talking about. You can add Idle ignition Control to your logging view to watch when this becomes active.

You are not getting into idle ignition control as your have it set for below 700rpm, change this to something like 1500 for now. I would, turn off or unplug you ISCV and then set the idle screw on your throttle so it can idle. Then set your idle ignition up, currently you have it set to enable below 700rpm, I would raise this to 1500rpm then tweak the table, it is not uncommon to have zero degrees in the centre (0) and then negative degrees towards the left hand side, but all cars are different so you will need to tweak this, once you can rev the engine and it falls back quickly to the centre (0) Then you can turn on your ISCV back on and set that up, but even with just idle ignition control it should be fairly stable.