ClintBHP

Digital Input - Wheel Speed

No need to connect anything on a B loom if you are not using the functions on that loom.

How big is the fuel tank, how hot is the fuel getting ?

I saw a similar thing this week, someone has been supplying CAN Cables for plugins but they clearly haven't realised the LINK CAN bus uses the opposite colour coding to ISO standards so got the green and white the wrong way around, well worth checking that first if using a non genuine Link cable.

You can adjust the trigger in software through 720°, so it does not really matter about where you put it in relation to the crank sensor, the cam sensor just tells the ECU where the crank sensor is within the 720 degree cycle. So your first 3 teeth are around 30, 90, 150°'s. You should make sure the tooth is centralised between two of the 6 crank teeth, I would simply place it dead centre of two cam teeth at 90° and 150°................... so 120° crank. This keeps the trigger away from each other and also puts any sync events outside of normal ignition events.

You are transmitting, your transmit counter has hit 128 and not gone up more this indicates the Plex is not sending an Acknowledgement (or cant see the transmit)

As per the link instructions: A Three Terminal ISC Solenoid must be wired to Aux 1 and Aux 2. Aux 1 is ISC Close, Aux 2 is ISC Open. Three terminal ISC solenoids needs one Auxiliary Output to open the solenoid and another Auxiliary Output to close it. Use an ohmmeter to find the common terminal (usually the centre). Figure 8.14 shows the schematic. Next measure the resistance between the common and remaining two terminals. This should be greater than 10 ohms. Apply +12V to the common terminal of the solenoid. Ground one of the other terminals. If this terminal causes the valve to open, connect it to an Auxiliary Output 2 and note that this output should be configured as 'ISC Solenoid'. If the valve closes, connect the terminal to Auxiliary Output 1 and note that this output should be configured as 'ISC Solenoid Slave'.

One of the pins will have +12 attached and as an ISCV is just a coil of wire inside once the +12v is connected then the other ends of the wire (while not being activated) will have 12v on them. Your better bet to work out what pin is what is to measure the resistance of the coils with a multimeter set to ohms.

What are the errors exactly, is the Dash terminated? If you put a multi meter over the can bus while everything is turned off what is the resistance. Are the 2 CAN wires twisted together at a rate of about 1 twist per inch?

Yes the Link ECU has a 1 bar barometric sensor on the PCB (BAP) with the engine not running it should read the same as your MAP sensor.

Hi Johnny I cant see an email can you try again to [email protected] There are no deals currently but the ECU is amazing value for money and the service you will receive will be second to none.

Sorry Marc my Mistake, I was thinking of the Delphi version. The actual calibration from Bosch for that sensor in my notes is: 15Kpa = 0.21v 100Kpa = 4.75v it will go to 1.05bar and almost 5v Again the key to check its right is that it matches the barometric sensor.

It's actually a 1.05 bar sensor and the same as Link used to use so select the 1.05bar Link calibration and check the MAP reading with the ignition on but engine stopped is the same as the inbuilt Barometric sensor (MAP=BAP).

Exactly that, it’s not really a modification and won’t invalidate your warranty.

Drop me a call next week 01474 850666

The ethrottle box hasn’t been released yet. If your in the UK I can help though give me a shout.

Fingers crossed my friend

The ECU is easy to fit and setup, certainly if you purchased from me I could deliver an ECU preconfigured for your injectors. you will also be able to connect yourself and look through settings from any windows 10 device. Link is very easy to tune most dyno operators I know like it to tune because it’s logical and easy to learn. I woul stay clear of any timers who seen negative about Link if you do find one. You can contact me direct through www.shopbhp.com if you need any more pre or post sales support regardless of who you choose to supply the ECU Clint

When you say must I rarely do and don’t seem to suffer. When you say noisey can you show us, is it always noisey or just when cranking,. Shielded twisted wire is best, the shield grounded at the ECU end only. Twisting cable helps reduce magnetic interference which is the most likely cause of noise. alao check all your earths have you played with the filtering and arming thresholds?

Then that is what the error value is set at, the input will only measure 0-5v

I would use it as a chance to start using Lambda, even if you have to print a little chart out to reference for a while, with modern fuels containing more and more ethanol its wise to think in Lambda terms, even though AFR might seen easier due to the swing of the values.

As you self answered 3 & 4 : 1 - Set your engine protection rpm limit to Ignition Cut. 2 - Have you checked the CAN configuration - ECU Controls - CAN Config

That looks fine Ivaylo, have you managed to test it ?

I was told the VL plug-in was no longer available, certainly the website indicates this too. Also the VL plugin is designed to ONLY use Low Impedance injectors, not a problem if your running standard but if you want to upgrade to the latest bosch multihole type then not so good. The Fury on the other hand will handle both Low (Peak and Hold) and High (Saturated) Injectors. The 'wake' time of the CANLambda is slower than that of the directly attached Lambda sensor too so is much better for logging and mapping cold start. The FURY will also handle Drive by Wire throttle if you want to upgrade at a later date, lots of advantages to this depending on what you are using the car for.

It must be a calibration issue, the input can not read 7.35 volts. The AN Volt 4 input measures 0-5v When you set it to Oil Pressure what Cal table did you use ?